What's the best pressure brake bleeder?
#1
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Car: 91RS
Engine: 305tbi
Transmission: 700R4
What's the best pressure brake bleeder?
Without going into professional $300+ bleeder tools what is the best one? I'm looking for somthing that can be done with one person.
I'm looking at the V-12:
http://www.phxsyss.com/v12.htm
Somthing a little cheaper that looks interesting:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
And somthing for a few bucks more:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vacul...spagenameZWDVW
I'm trying to figure out how the V-12 works for pressure bleeding. Wouldn't you still need two people, one to operate the v-12 and one person to open and close the bleeder valve?
I'm looking at the V-12:
http://www.phxsyss.com/v12.htm
Somthing a little cheaper that looks interesting:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
And somthing for a few bucks more:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vacul...spagenameZWDVW
I'm trying to figure out how the V-12 works for pressure bleeding. Wouldn't you still need two people, one to operate the v-12 and one person to open and close the bleeder valve?
Last edited by PyRo9862; 11-23-2006 at 11:40 AM.
#3
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Car: 91RS
Engine: 305tbi
Transmission: 700R4
It works well with only one person operating it?
#4
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
I didn't check your links as I knew what I would suggest to you. Yes it's a one man operation thing.
Ed
Ed
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Pretty cool - never seen one before - and not that expensive. Not as cheap as my 8 inches of surgical tubing and 1 litre soda bottle, but ya get what ya pay for
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Car: 91RS
Engine: 305tbi
Transmission: 700R4
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#8
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Car: 91RS
Engine: 305tbi
Transmission: 700R4
I got it in the mail a couple hours ago and gave it a shot.
Getting it to seal on the master took a few minutes but once it was set up it seemed to work great. I only wish I read the directions for draining the master of some fluid when finished as I just took it off and had a full master and some spillage.
Anyway my brakes are still lousy after putting just under 3/4s of a a quart through the system.
The story goes the car sat for about a month, I got it it and the pedal went right to the floor but pumping it could get a pedal built up. So I put a rebuilt master from NAPA in. When I bench bled it they didn't have the tubes that go back up into the reservoir. Instead they had plugs that screwed into the ports and told you to just push it until the air stopped coming.
I think my next move is to:
Jack the car up so the master is level
Put this pressure bleeder back on there
Crack the lines (I should probably let them run for a few seconds, tighten them for 15 seconds, tap the master and repeat a few times right?)
Then bleed down all the brake lines in order again.
This should get any and all air out of the system correct?
In the event that process fails where do I go from there?
I don't see any leaking lines.
Could the booster be causing this?
Getting it to seal on the master took a few minutes but once it was set up it seemed to work great. I only wish I read the directions for draining the master of some fluid when finished as I just took it off and had a full master and some spillage.
Anyway my brakes are still lousy after putting just under 3/4s of a a quart through the system.
The story goes the car sat for about a month, I got it it and the pedal went right to the floor but pumping it could get a pedal built up. So I put a rebuilt master from NAPA in. When I bench bled it they didn't have the tubes that go back up into the reservoir. Instead they had plugs that screwed into the ports and told you to just push it until the air stopped coming.
I think my next move is to:
Jack the car up so the master is level
Put this pressure bleeder back on there
Crack the lines (I should probably let them run for a few seconds, tighten them for 15 seconds, tap the master and repeat a few times right?)
Then bleed down all the brake lines in order again.
This should get any and all air out of the system correct?
In the event that process fails where do I go from there?
I don't see any leaking lines.
Could the booster be causing this?
#9
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z/28
Engine: LU5 305 CFI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: J65/G80/G92-3.23
If that fails then clean all the brake line connection points and inspect for leakage.If you have drum brakes on the rear the wheel cylinders could be leaking inside the drum.Have you replaced the brake hoses or are they original?
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