spills

iTrader: (9)

Ok, I've got my lines bent up for the adj. prop valve and line lock going to the new LS1 master cylinder. I still have to get 2 union fittings and thats about it. Here's the deal, when I got the master cylinder all it had was the fittings with about 1/2" of pipe that was cut with some cutters. I noticed that the lines seem to have bubble flares instead of double flares which I used for the rest of the setup. What would be the best way to go about doing this, do they make a female inverted flare -> bubble flare fitting, or do I need to now go buy another freakin tool to make a bubble flare?

And does anyone know what size the fittings are? The MC came out of an 02 Camaro.

87GTAj

iTrader: (4)

NAPA sells bubble flare to inverted fittings for 3/16th lines. Making bubble flares with a flaring tool is pretty straight forward if you want to make your own. The fittings on the master should be M11x1.25 and M12x1.0. HTH

It'll look like this and the back accepts inverted flare nuts:

spills

iTrader: (9)

how do you go about making a bubble flare with an double flare tool? The case my tool came with had it written on there, but I lost the case years ago.

87GTAj

iTrader: (4)

How I was taught is as follows:
Adjust the line in the clamp so that it's top is at the fat part of the adapter that was included for the size line you're using.
Place the adapter on the line.
Compress the line until the adapter reaches the clamp.
The resulting flare should be a bubble flare. That's how I've done it and I've never had a problem.

spills

iTrader: (9)

ok, now Im down to only one problem. I cannot get the 1/4" pipe from the rear port on the baster cylinder (that goes to the prop valve) to fit inside the bubble flare fitting that was originally on the master cylinder from the factory. The 3/16" pipe went in fine, but this 1/4" is giving me hell. I've tried sanding it down slightly, trying other metric fittings, I cannot figure it out.

87GTAj

iTrader: (4)

So your new 1/4" line won't fit in the old 1/4" fitting? Did you measure to make sure each line is the same - it's possible the new one was labeled wrong. Is there anything inside of the fitting that could be causing a restriction? How bad does it not fit?

spills

iTrader: (9)

I have not measured anything yet, but it's very close from what I can tell. THe fitting will slide on about a milimeter or so, then stop. I cannot see anything inside the fitting that would cause it to jam, and I tried it on two fittings; one on the MC and one from the old prop valve, same result.

I would assume that be it metric or standard fittings, they still use the same line correct? If so, then I might try to find some new fittings just to see if it is the fittings that are the issue.

87GTAj

iTrader: (4)

Ok, does the original line you pulled off still work with both of those fittings you are trying? Try making sure the original line fits with the old/new fittings still. Was it difficult to get the original fitting off of the line?

Metric vs standard, they basically use the same lines. I have never seen an American car that used metric lines, but they are sold (mostly for European cars). You could try a metric line, but that could lead to leaks. Where did you get the line you are using from? If the old line still fits, it's a problem with your new line.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

you dont, you buy a bubble flare tool, a cheap one can be had for around 20 bux. You can make a "double flare" which is not a "bubble flare"

87GTAj

iTrader: (4)

With most flaring tools, you can make an inverted flare, a double flare, and a bubble flare. Just a matter of which steps you take and in what order. There's no need for a separate tool for bubble flares. Maybe the pros have separate tools, but it's not necessary for everyone.