vilespankmachin

First off, yes, I did search, couldn't find a comprehensive answer to my situation.

88 Iroc, stock rear brakes (so the iron calipers).

I removed/painted my rear end and the area around it since I had to replace my fuel pump, I just put everything back together but I cannot get the rear brakes to bleed. I re-bled the master cylinder and I also pulled one of the brake lines off of a caliper to verify I had fluid getting to the caliper, a bunch of fluid came out, I don't know if it was "enough" to run a caliper though, I had a buddy press the brake slowly and I didn't want to get sprayed in the face.

I have not replaced any brake parts since I've owned the car, it has freshish pads on it.

When I took everything apart I disconnected the rubber line that goes to the rear end, and I removed the caliper and hardlines from the axle. I had the bolts that hook the brake hoses to the calipers removed for about 3 weeks and the calipers sitting in my work area (a cheap tarp-type canopy) with the bolts screws in as far as they would go. I was wondering if enough moisture got inside the caliper it might freeze the pistons?

I was also thinking that perhaps I need a new rear rubber brake line. Any suggestions? Car is still in the air.

EDIT: Rear brakes were working correctly when I took them apart, I had just bled them not long before that.

vilespankmachin

Got it, never mind.

d85iroc

What was ur problem I can't get mine to bleed!!!

vilespankmachin

I bled the entire system in sequence, starting with the master cylinder (disconnect the line from the master cylinder and bleed it like you would a caliper).

Then I did the rears, passenger side first. It took a VERY long time to get all the air out. AFAIK I probably did three pumps/hold pedal for 15ish minutes before I got fluid all the way back there.

Just continue to try and keep your reservoir full.

Being six years since I did this, and looking at my rear brake wear pattern, I am thinking I had/have very weak pressure to the rear.

Also, I have a vacuum bleeder now, speeds things along a bit, but it still took a very long time to get fluid out the first rear caliper from a dry system.

Also, holy batman I didn't realize this thread was so old.

d85iroc

Hi thanks I am bleeding the master cylinder and the brake line closest to the booster lets out brake fluid and the pedal goes down. But the second line on master cylinder furthest from brake booster I can't get any liquid out of that one should it bleed too? Also thank you very Much for the quick response I can't wait to drive my car

vilespankmachin

If you have a leak on the first line....well that is your problem. I believe the second line may not pressurize with a leak on the first but I am not intimate with the master cylinder internals.

Moral of the story: fix your first line. In order for any hydraulic system to work properly it needs to be closed....

d85iroc

I'm sorry I probably wasn't clear. It lets out brake fluid when I loosen the first brake line to bleed it. When I close it back up it doesn't leak. It only lets fluid out when I loosen the fitting to bleed it. But the second line doesn't bleed any fluid at all when I try to bleed it. Sorry for my bad communication.

Moonruins

I'm having the exact same problem you were having. Stock iron calipers that were working until I went and messed things up. So what I get from your post is that even tho you have verified that you have fluid up to the caliper that it may not be enough to get them to work/bleed ?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I found its easier to open the front caliper bleeders to remove the psi, then bleed the rears and finish with the fronts.