hardyz13

iTrader: (1)

Well I almost have my swap done, but I ran into a issue. I put a 97 z28 rearend into my car. Everything went together good until now. When I installed the wheel and torqued it down the wheel will not turn unless forced I took it off and the rotor will then turn freely. So I put lug nuts on just the rotor and same issue, I noticed the nuts pushed the rotor into the inner calliper bracket. I have new rotors "and made sure they were right", calipers, and pads everything was bought for the 97 rearend. So now im stuck any help would be nice.

hardyz13

iTrader: (1)

Ok I might have ii figured out now. Does anyone have a picture of how the lt1 calipers bolt on to the rearend. I have found some on here but there to far away to tell.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Various pics in the following link:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...iscs-89-a.html

JamesC

hardyz13

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Thats how I have my caliper bolted is on the out side of the axle flange, but the rotor is still hitting the caliper bracket??

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

And so your set-up looks, generally, like the one in the following pic--axle flange, backing plate, caliper carrier (in red), caliper?

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...s-89-shims.jpg

If so, are you absolutely sure that everything is set-up for a 97?

JamesC

hardyz13

iTrader: (1)

Yes, well I bought new calipers rotors for a 97 and the new ones match the old ones exact. the only thing I don't have is the spacer, but I shouldn't need it being a 97 rearend already. Its hard to tell by the picture but doesn't the caliper bracket "the red part" mount towards the rotor or on the back of the flange. "I don't see how it would work if it was mounted on the flange towards the diff".

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The caliper bracket mounts to the backside of the backing plate (which mounts to the axel flange). Another view:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...89-rebrake.jpg

JamesC

hardyz13

iTrader: (1)

Ok I go try it but I cant seem to get it to mount from the back side. I'll go take some pictures also. Thanks James.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

I think we may have confused each other (or just me). Check post #6 for a pic. Note where the red is on the backing plate:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ing-axles.html

JamesC

hardyz13

iTrader: (1)

This is how I have it set up.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

While I'm not familiar with fourthgen backing plates, the set-up looks good to me.

JamesC

Dante93GTZ

iTrader: (5)

Did you get it worked out? I'm having exactly the same problem and it doesn't seem to matter whether I'm using the 3rdgen or 4thgen backing plates.

It looks like the rotor needs like a 1/32" spacer between it and the hub.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Hey, Dante,

Is it a question of centering the carrier over the rotor?

JamesC

Dante93GTZ

iTrader: (5)

Possibly? The rotor isn't centered between caliper/bracket.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

If the carrier needs to be moved outward for the rotor to be centered, a shim behind the backing plate should do the trick. Check above for pics.

JamesC

Dante93GTZ

iTrader: (5)

Are you talking about a backing plate shim or a rotor shim? Based on the prob I'm having, the rotor HAS to move outward slightly to clear...

Note my edit above.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

10-bolts with PBR's sometimes had shims behind the backing plates, which moved the carrier outward in order to center the carrier over the rotor--this from the factory. I'm unsure what might be causing your issues. Perhaps someone else will chime in.

JamesC

Dante93GTZ

iTrader: (5)

This setup has a shim between the backing plate and axle housing. If I remove it, it would probably give me the clearance I need. Is there a problem to do this? I can't see why there would be, but....

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

No problem in removing the shim. Some cars are equipped with one, some with two, some with none. My car only required one. (The shims come in a couple of different thicknesses from the factory, IIRC.)

BTW, I've read that 9-bolt weren't equipped with shims at all.

JamesC

91 1LE

iTrader: (1)

Add or remove shims until the rotor is centered in the mounting bracket. Changing shims requires removing the axles, which sucks. If the caliper is not perfectly centered, pad wear will not be even. My rotor was too close to the inner side of the mounting bracket and my car made a weird ringing noise (like a rung bell) when I made left turns due to the rotor rubbing on the caliper bracket . Lateral axle movement caused this.