91 zeee

I was getting ready to place an order for some drilled and slotted rotors...I thought they'd perform better than oem...and I saw this link. Now I am not sure what to do. My car is street driven mostly but will see some track time
http://www.paladinmicro.com/document...ainstCross.pdf

SD89RS

Worse than OEM? Maybe, maybe not. Worse than a non cross drilled, non vented aftermarket rotor? Well, the article you posted spells it out better than any one on here really could.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

it's like anything.
just like the black wheels (fadd) ya they look cool for now but in time somthing els will always be cooler to look at.

street strip. if you want to try them they do look good on a car.
then get a set. i like my silver Zink cross drilled and slotted roters.
mine are also vented

i can tell you this any time you add more surfic space to a part that take alot of heat it can cool faster.. any one who prints it dose not is smoking crack!

they have been doing it to Full Auto Guns for 70 years
on a gun bbl it's called fluting.. see how hot the bbl on my Hk21 Heats up and starts to smoke.


http://youtu.be/A6tZXnUZIhg


Do i NEED them on my car..No.. do they stop My car.. Yes

Do they Look Cool..YES.

And you can get a full set from R1 Cocepts for $200 Front and back

like I posted. it's like anything els...do you need a full auto beltfed with Supresser..No!
But it's cool!!

after all whats your Zombi Plan!

91 zeee

I always thought that the drilled/slotted rotors dissipated heat and outgassing better and that would make them perform better and last longer, but then I read that article and am second guessing drilled and slotted now.?.?

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

it's like the ford and chevy thing..
you can always read somthing thats Better..

i say get them if you want them..

did i read someplace about the sky falling?

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

the article is pretty to the point. if you're going for looks, grab what you want. performance wise, you're not going to be getting any huge difference. you also run the risk of cracking, especially with the cheaper versions.

Eagle223usa

I also have Zinked drilled and slotted on my car......And about the same Zombie plan!

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

Nothing like 950Rds a Min to Heat up a Gun!! with a 60lb back pack
and 1000rds of ammo in it. makes for sweeping a street or House Sweet!

and remember past 50 yards. you dont know im even there. till the snap over your Head!

Zombie Plane . . . Get one!

(or if the Cops in your HOOD get out of Hand!)
7.67X51mm/308 cal. Kills bugs Dead

IROCtheRoad

I had a set of cross drilled and slotted rotors on my 2002 Camaro. On dry roads I felt no difference. However, when it was wet outside (and on the same tires), my braking was phenomenal and I rarely relied on the ABS.

So what's the reason? I'm not sure, I just know how well they worked.

DBLTKE

iTrader: (1)

I wonder how many people know why the this to rotors?

Cros drilling is mostly for reducing weight, slotting is for evacuating heat and gases, increasing diameter is for getting more pad surface on the rotor, and more rotor surface means the heat is dissipated to a greater area thus reducing brake fade.

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

There are pros and cons of drill / slotted rotors one thing that always comes up is stressing and cracking between holes. I do cryogenic treating to rotors. cryogenically frozen rotors last longer, are much stronger, less prone to cracking, stress / fatigue, pad life is also increased.

91 zeee

ok, where would I get cryogenically treated rotors? 1A Dan; do you sell them?

I like the looksof drilled/slotted rotors, but I dont want to buy something that does not hold up just because I like the looks...

85TransAm406

iTrader: (1)

Close...slotting is for evacuating the gas, the vanes and mass of the rotor dissipate heat. Drilling rotors DECREASES this mass, and along with slotting, DECREASES pad contact area. Most pads ALREADY have slots in them. Increasing diameter is for increasing LEVERAGE of the pads/calipers against the moving wheel/hub assembly of the vehicle. Generally larger diameter rotors do not have more pad surface due to the rotor being larger, it is usually due to the increased PAD surface that comes along with a large brake upgrade.

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

You might be able to find someone local in your area that does cryogenic dipping to parts and see if there willing to dip your rotors (theirs really nothing black magic to it, there's a lot of places that do cryo processing) Other wise for my self i have my own resources, but i do know of a few websites that already have cryo rotors for are cars and other rotors that are common when doing brake upgrades on 3rdgens. There spendy... but if you think about it you can justify the cost because in longevity terms they last about 2 to 3 times longer then those that haven't received a cryo treatment.

85TransAm406

iTrader: (1)

We (myself and the guy I race with) have used www.300below.com and www.frozenrotors.com with good success on our SCCA cars. Powerslot offers out of the box cryo treated rotors for some applications also, but we don't run slotted rotors, so we haven't tried them.

91 zeee

well....i just learned something.... this forum is awesome.
ok, I went to both websites and it looks like what I need. Neither site has the cost or lists any rotors for my car though...any idea on a ballpark price?

85TransAm406

iTrader: (1)

We pay about $100 a rotor, I have C5/LS1 rotors, and he has stock miata rotors. I've seen the powerslot ones go for $70 or less on some cars, they are done by frozenrotors.

blackbmagic

The slots are the only thing that benefits a street driven car, on drilled and slotted rotors. The slots cut the surface of the brake pad when the brakes are applied, leaving a fresh bite every time. It pretty much eliminated pad glaze especially on lower quality pads.

The cross drilled holes are far from useful on the street, brakes never see the heat or expel enough gas to benifit from the use the cross drilled pattern. They just decrease surface area on a street cars rotor which is no good for performance. Depending on the quality of the rotor material they are also more prone to cracks.

If you can find your self some slotted only rotors, go with them they are stronger and work great.

Keep in mind 95% of shops wont cut a drilled or slotted rotor when it comes time to have your rotors resurfaced. They give the lath a hard time, and break bits easily. They have to be cut very shallow multiple times, making it very time consuming and something I will not do in my shop. For those of you who say it can be done, I know it can be.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

GO TO SUMMIT. ask for the Crager Cross drilled and sloted rotors
they are also Cryogenically Treated. also Zink plated to boot.

made to also replace stock rotors = bolt on

reading some of the post..lol

How calipers and rotors work with Ea other..a pinch is a pinch. thats how

get the ones you want.. all is good

rgarcia63

I'm partial to my OEM 16" IROCZ wheels. Even with LS1 rotors & calipers which practically fill the wheels there's not much to see behind those beefy wheel spokes.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Do you have any proof of your claims? Sounds like some hogwash BS to me. People are always cryogenically treating various sorts of things with claims of it improving performance, sound, durability, alignment of the universe, and all sorts of other things, and I've never seen any proof of it anywhere. This goes for a whole lot more things than just brake rotors... I'm just honestly kind of shocked to see this turn up in this context.

Edit: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...-rotors-2.html

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I have never used slotted or drilled rotors on any car I've ever had, and I've never had any problems with my brakes.

I'd just go with regular rotors and call it a day.

If you think you need slotted and drilled rotors, then go for it, and don't worry about it.

I don't see the need for these, though, especially if you're not constantly racing the car on a track.

For my C5 brake upgrade, I'm getting the cheap Redline rotors. Why spend big bucks, especially if you're not a serious track racer?

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

They are not my clams i was just simply stating, the facts are out there... Are shop has been talked to numerous times about how much money is beaning spent on brake pads and rotors that being said you have to realize you can not control the driving habits of the fleet vehicle operators or the every day road conditions as much as you would like to... It is what it is. Are shop looked into other alternatives to cut down the money that was annually spent on brakes alone we talked about added lager rotors and different calipers but we can not alerter or modify anything that wasn't OEM for that specific vehicle due to D.O.T issues. So we began to test out different pad materials and log data we ended up contacting a local place which was www.frozenrotors.com/ they set us up with everything we needed even though the rotors cost a bit more they did indeed last longer and have cut cost down substantially and we have decreased the number of frequent pad and rotor changes on all the fleet vehicles.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I dont think it's because they're frozen... There's a few anecdotal type stories about how it improved things, but it's always really complicated scenarios in complex systems that are hard to narrow down to single variable. There's also a lot of science saying it should make no difference.

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

It doesn't matter. That's what we have been using on are fleet vehicles for the last 2 years and its worked out very well. Whether its a pad and rotor combination we have had no warped rotors and hardly had to turn rotors. The pads have last longer but again it could be do to the pad materials we are currently using. Besides go talk to some mill guys and CNC machinist that have there tooling cryogenically treated... hell if your such a skeptic go buy some drill bits and see how many holes you can drill before they doll or break and have another set cryogenically treated and then see how many holes you can drill before they doll or break then come back and tell me how cryogenically treated peaces make no difference.

85Z28NOS

iTrader: (2)

Funny, my drilled and slotted rotors are OEM.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

As been stated many times above, drilling and slotting have pros and cons.
Some peeps say that drilling causes cracking.
I don't think the holes "cause" cracking. Heavy cars, smallish brakes and lack of air flow to properly cool rotor do more harm than the holes. * I would think*
I have changed maaany cracked, nondrilled and slotted OEM rotors. Surface cracks arn't bad (still useable but keep a eye one them)but when they make it to the edge or thru the rotor its time to replace them. Thats according to Brembo, used em on the panoz road race car.
One thing I noticed about my drilled and slotted rotors is that when they do surface crack, the crack stops at the drilled hole and normally cant go any farther unlike a solid rotor which will just run to the outer edge. (stress relief hole, kinda like your GF has )
Also as one guy above said, and its true to me also, they feel like they grip a tad better when it rains.
300 below is out of decatur il which is a hr away from me. If your a street car you prolly don't need that but if you hit the track by all means do it to it!!
If you have to surface slotted and drilled rotors take them to a machine shop that grinds flywheels. Don't do them on a regular brake lathe!!!!