88camaroscv6

iTrader: (1)

I just installed the ls1 front brakes on my 89 formula, it cost me around $500 total. I was able to use my stock brake lines/rubber hoses, the worst parts of this install were getting the spindle off the ball joint, and needing a front end alignment really badly after, other wise, i got my parts for the conversion from Bigbrakeupgrade.com and i give them an A++ they have a very useful website and fast responses + shipping. Here are some pictures of the swap below.

And is anyone is curious I weighed each spindle setup,
STOCK weighs 41 LBS
LS1 weighs 49 LBS

overall review..i have only been driving them for a few hours today braking them in and they have SOO much more grip than the stock setup, and its nice to see big rotors behind your rims, great upgrade recommended for any 3rd gen.

TallTim

iTrader: (2)

Very Nice. Two questions for you - did you need an alignment b/c the new spindle has different dimensions than the old? And what approach did you take to bleeding the brakes? Thx!

UnstableAviator

I too did the LS1 brake conversion, its a great mod for the price.

No alignment needed, the same hub is used after machining and everything should go back together just like it came apart.

Bleeding the brakes, well...I've got to take my master cylinder off and bench bleed, then re-bleed the entire system. I've got a spongy pedal feel that I can't seem to get rid of no matter how much I try. Since I emptied all the lines, I assume a bench bleed of the master will cure my problem.

TallTim

iTrader: (2)

And the rest of the bleed - used a pump or two person job? I'm trying to figure out the simplest (cheapest) way to change the brake fluid.

IROCtheRoad

Speed Bleeders are your friend

Z28Smitty

I agree. Earl's Speed Bleeders worked great when it came time to bleed the brakes on my LS1 brake conversion.

patricklav

iTrader: (7)

Did you cut the spindles yourself or buy the modified ones from Bigbrake?

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

gravity bleed, and then watch paint dry. just kidding. using a second person to put pressure on the system, I found is the best way. or if need take a bottle and put about 2" of brake fluid in the bottom. Then drill a hole in the cap and put a clear hose into it and down into the fluid. Next attach it to the bleeder and pump the brakes. do it slowly and check frequently. you do not want the hose to come out of the fluid

88camaroscv6

iTrader: (1)

I cut the spindles myself with a grinder, very straight forward just follow the cutting diagram...very simple task anyone can do it. Bleeding the brakes was a 2 man job, i had my brother pumping the pedal and holding it while i released the pressure from the bleeder. REMEMBER do not mix up the left and right side calipers!!!! the bleeder should be on the top of the caliper, not on the bottom, i did that and never got all the air out of my calipers, and yes i think i need to bleed my master too because my pedal can go down 1/4 of the way without doing much, but then after than this thing stops real good

** also i forgot to add, my alignment was wayyyy off on the drivers side for some reason, maybe the spindle i got from the junk car was tweaked but the car had no signs of damage...the guy at the alignment shop said the right side dropped right into alignment but the left side was wayy out there, but all is good now

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Nice swap!

Hey on my LS1 brake swap, I noticed that the rotor has a little play in it...I mean it can turn a little bit like 2mm back and forth, once it is on the hub.

It will turn and hit the studs then will turn back and hit the studs.

Is this normal??

88camaroscv6

iTrader: (1)

yeah its normal, and once the wheel is bolted up it should eliminate the play

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I thought it was. Just wanted to make sure.

Thank you!