Issue with aftermarket subwoofers
#1
Issue with aftermarket subwoofers
Hey folks
So I have my stereo all set. Now I have another issue to addres, my Lanzer dual sub woofer. I had to replace the 10in speakers they were rotted out. I got one of 2 working great. I believe the issue is with the PLUTO AMP. I have a new MATCHMAKER I found on EBAY luckly to replace and that is already installed.
So the right side will not plat at all, only the left side speaker. Just wondering if anyone knows how I can test and resolve. I confirm both new speakers work fine. I am attaching a picture of both. thanks.
So I have my stereo all set. Now I have another issue to addres, my Lanzer dual sub woofer. I had to replace the 10in speakers they were rotted out. I got one of 2 working great. I believe the issue is with the PLUTO AMP. I have a new MATCHMAKER I found on EBAY luckly to replace and that is already installed.
So the right side will not plat at all, only the left side speaker. Just wondering if anyone knows how I can test and resolve. I confirm both new speakers work fine. I am attaching a picture of both. thanks.
#2
Re: Issue with aftermarket subwoofers
The harness for this setup is very old. I am going to check it out as well. But my thinking is the still the AMP has some sort of failure going on with the the right sub woofer.
Neat though I have installed a GP 1999 Radio with CD player and EQ, added a 3.5 jack and the system sounds amazing. I forgot the sub puts out so much. Need to the the right one working!!
Neat though I have installed a GP 1999 Radio with CD player and EQ, added a 3.5 jack and the system sounds amazing. I forgot the sub puts out so much. Need to the the right one working!!
#3
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Car: 2001 Camaro
Engine: 3800 Series
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: ??
Re: Issue with aftermarket subwoofers
Best way to figure this out is to get a multimeter. Set it to AC voltage and test for current. Start with the wires that input your matchmaker and make sure everything is seeing a signal. Next move to the outputs on the matchmaker and make sure everything is flowing nicely. 3rd test the wiring at the input to the amp if possible, then finally the output of the amp. That seems like the most systematic way to check and not skip anything.
#4
Re: Issue with aftermarket subwoofers
Best way to figure this out is to get a multimeter. Set it to AC voltage and test for current. Start with the wires that input your matchmaker and make sure everything is seeing a signal. Next move to the outputs on the matchmaker and make sure everything is flowing nicely. 3rd test the wiring at the input to the amp if possible, then finally the output of the amp. That seems like the most systematic way to check and not skip anything.
#5
Re: Issue with aftermarket subwoofers
Best way to figure this out is to get a multimeter. Set it to AC voltage and test for current. Start with the wires that input your matchmaker and make sure everything is seeing a signal. Next move to the outputs on the matchmaker and make sure everything is flowing nicely. 3rd test the wiring at the input to the amp if possible, then finally the output of the amp. That seems like the most systematic way to check and not skip anything.
#6
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Re: Issue with aftermarket subwoofers
If you swap the RCA inputs around does the problem move from one speaker to the other?
While I'm one of the first people to say grab a DMM to start, this is one instance where it may not be of any help. Especially trying to measure the speaker level side of the signals. A specific test tone would be needed, not music, and experience with what the AC reading on the DMM should be would also be needed.
While I'm one of the first people to say grab a DMM to start, this is one instance where it may not be of any help. Especially trying to measure the speaker level side of the signals. A specific test tone would be needed, not music, and experience with what the AC reading on the DMM should be would also be needed.
#7
Re: Issue with aftermarket subwoofers
If you swap the RCA inputs around does the problem move from one speaker to the other?
While I'm one of the first people to say grab a DMM to start, this is one instance where it may not be of any help. Especially trying to measure the speaker level side of the signals. A specific test tone would be needed, not music, and experience with what the AC reading on the DMM should be would also be needed.
While I'm one of the first people to say grab a DMM to start, this is one instance where it may not be of any help. Especially trying to measure the speaker level side of the signals. A specific test tone would be needed, not music, and experience with what the AC reading on the DMM should be would also be needed.
I also did what you said Six_Shooter, swapped left to right and the the right worked, and the left did not.
The matchmaker is brand new, found on EBAY. I am fairly sure its a wiring issue. mice have been living in the car off and on, would not surprise me if they are shorted out or disconnected. I will pull it apart soon to confirm, thanks.
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#8
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Join Date: Mar 2005
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Car: 2001 Camaro
Engine: 3800 Series
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: ??
Re: Issue with aftermarket subwoofers
If you swap the RCA inputs around does the problem move from one speaker to the other?
While I'm one of the first people to say grab a DMM to start, this is one instance where it may not be of any help. Especially trying to measure the speaker level side of the signals. A specific test tone would be needed, not music, and experience with what the AC reading on the DMM should be would also be needed.
While I'm one of the first people to say grab a DMM to start, this is one instance where it may not be of any help. Especially trying to measure the speaker level side of the signals. A specific test tone would be needed, not music, and experience with what the AC reading on the DMM should be would also be needed.
Hawkeye, how is your system currently wired? Again I can only assume that your new stereo only has 4 speaker outputs, left/right front and left/right rear. Now if you have your rear sail panel speakers hooked up and are piggybacking your matchmaker off those to run your subs, thats not the best idea. The reason is impedance. The measure of resistance given by the speakers connected to a stereo. Your stereo is designed to run at specific impedance, most likely 4 ohms. Most speakers are 4 ohms. When you start adding in other speakers or connections, this changes the impedance. If you wire 2 speakers together to one channel matching positive to positive and negative to negative, the impedance drops down, allowing more current to flow fro the stereo, and will eventually damage it. Now, that being said, Im sure the Matchmaker is geared towards this kind of piggyback setup and will be fine, but since I have 0 experience with it, I cant begin to think that its the best way to go.
In my opinion, the best solution to this whole thing is get an aftermarket stereo that has at least 2 pre-amp outputs and run a set of RCA style cables back to the amp. If the amp does not have RCA pre-amp inputs, sell the amp and buy one that does. This way you know everything is compatible and will work together nicely.
#9
Re: Issue with aftermarket subwoofers
I would start by checking out all the wiring again.
The 'matchmaker' I'm assuming is a line out converter right? Usually those are installed near the back of the headunit, to reduce the chance of noise from entering the system. Then a long set of RCAs are run back to the amp.
So just to make sure, so at the beginning the right side didn't work.
When you switched around the RCA's the left side didn't work?
If so, I would then try a different set of RCA's.
Honestly, looking at the photos I think you're wiring should be redone. Move the LOC to behind the deck, replace the RCAs, make sure you have a good (short) ground to the amp.
Doing that usually fixes many of the issues in a system.
The 'matchmaker' I'm assuming is a line out converter right? Usually those are installed near the back of the headunit, to reduce the chance of noise from entering the system. Then a long set of RCAs are run back to the amp.
So just to make sure, so at the beginning the right side didn't work.
When you switched around the RCA's the left side didn't work?
If so, I would then try a different set of RCA's.
Honestly, looking at the photos I think you're wiring should be redone. Move the LOC to behind the deck, replace the RCAs, make sure you have a good (short) ground to the amp.
Doing that usually fixes many of the issues in a system.
#10
Re: Issue with aftermarket subwoofers
Not entirely true... all you really are looking for at this point is any kind of signal. Any sort of current flowing proves that SOMETHING is flowing through the circuit on that side. I understand what you are thinking, but using a test tone and being familiar with the DMM readings is more for setting gains and whatnot. Here we just want to establish where the fault is, where does that current stop flowing. Also I assumed by GP 1999 stereo, he meant a stereo from a 1999 Grand Prix, which would not have RCA outputs, thus requiring the matchmaker (which I have never heard of honestly, but can figure out easily what it does)
Hawkeye, how is your system currently wired? Again I can only assume that your new stereo only has 4 speaker outputs, left/right front and left/right rear. Now if you have your rear sail panel speakers hooked up and are piggybacking your matchmaker off those to run your subs, thats not the best idea. The reason is impedance. The measure of resistance given by the speakers connected to a stereo. Your stereo is designed to run at specific impedance, most likely 4 ohms. Most speakers are 4 ohms. When you start adding in other speakers or connections, this changes the impedance. If you wire 2 speakers together to one channel matching positive to positive and negative to negative, the impedance drops down, allowing more current to flow fro the stereo, and will eventually damage it. Now, that being said, Im sure the Matchmaker is geared towards this kind of piggyback setup and will be fine, but since I have 0 experience with it, I cant begin to think that its the best way to go.
In my opinion, the best solution to this whole thing is get an aftermarket stereo that has at least 2 pre-amp outputs and run a set of RCA style cables back to the amp. If the amp does not have RCA pre-amp inputs, sell the amp and buy one that does. This way you know everything is compatible and will work together nicely.
Hawkeye, how is your system currently wired? Again I can only assume that your new stereo only has 4 speaker outputs, left/right front and left/right rear. Now if you have your rear sail panel speakers hooked up and are piggybacking your matchmaker off those to run your subs, thats not the best idea. The reason is impedance. The measure of resistance given by the speakers connected to a stereo. Your stereo is designed to run at specific impedance, most likely 4 ohms. Most speakers are 4 ohms. When you start adding in other speakers or connections, this changes the impedance. If you wire 2 speakers together to one channel matching positive to positive and negative to negative, the impedance drops down, allowing more current to flow fro the stereo, and will eventually damage it. Now, that being said, Im sure the Matchmaker is geared towards this kind of piggyback setup and will be fine, but since I have 0 experience with it, I cant begin to think that its the best way to go.
In my opinion, the best solution to this whole thing is get an aftermarket stereo that has at least 2 pre-amp outputs and run a set of RCA style cables back to the amp. If the amp does not have RCA pre-amp inputs, sell the amp and buy one that does. This way you know everything is compatible and will work together nicely.
As for the subwoofer setup, I am betting on the wiring being bad. This setup was installed back in 1990 and was working great for many many years. I had to replace the 2 subwoofer 10' speakers because the originals rotted out.
So In the next week or so I will pull out the old wiring and replace it. Hopefully this will address the one subwoofer outage issue. Becuase the car not only sound great driving, need some good tune sounds too!!
#11
Re: Issue with aftermarket subwoofers
I would start by checking out all the wiring again.
The 'matchmaker' I'm assuming is a line out converter right? Usually those are installed near the back of the headunit, to reduce the chance of noise from entering the system. Then a long set of RCAs are run back to the amp.
So just to make sure, so at the beginning the right side didn't work.
When you switched around the RCA's the left side didn't work?
If so, I would then try a different set of RCA's.
Honestly, looking at the photos I think you're wiring should be redone. Move the LOC to behind the deck, replace the RCAs, make sure you have a good (short) ground to the amp.
Doing that usually fixes many of the issues in a system.
The 'matchmaker' I'm assuming is a line out converter right? Usually those are installed near the back of the headunit, to reduce the chance of noise from entering the system. Then a long set of RCAs are run back to the amp.
So just to make sure, so at the beginning the right side didn't work.
When you switched around the RCA's the left side didn't work?
If so, I would then try a different set of RCA's.
Honestly, looking at the photos I think you're wiring should be redone. Move the LOC to behind the deck, replace the RCAs, make sure you have a good (short) ground to the amp.
Doing that usually fixes many of the issues in a system.
The power line and ground are 10 Gauge. They run all the way from the AMP to the front of the car. Power goes right to the battery and ground is in the engine compartment. Again this setup worked for many years. I will update this thread when I fix the harness. Hopefully I will get this bug out too.
Please keep the ideas coming, very much appreciated.
#12
Re: Issue with aftermarket subwoofers
I am sorry, LOC?? Do you mean the Matchmaker?
The power line and ground are 10 Gauge. They run all the way from the AMP to the front of the car. Power goes right to the battery and ground is in the engine compartment. Again this setup worked for many years. I will update this thread when I fix the harness. Hopefully I will get this bug out too.
Please keep the ideas coming, very much appreciated.
The power line and ground are 10 Gauge. They run all the way from the AMP to the front of the car. Power goes right to the battery and ground is in the engine compartment. Again this setup worked for many years. I will update this thread when I fix the harness. Hopefully I will get this bug out too.
Please keep the ideas coming, very much appreciated.
They are normally installed behind the head unit, and then the RCAs go back to your amp.
I would shorten that ground to as little wire as possible, find a clean piece of metal close to the amp.
Power wire: make sure you have a fuse within 6 inches of the battery terminal
These are just steps to reduce the chances of noise entering your system, and also reduces other wiring issues.
#13
Re: Issue with aftermarket subwoofers
LOC = Line Out Converter: Takes high level(speaker wire) to low level (RCA). Which is what I think they are calling the 'matchmaker'.
They are normally installed behind the head unit, and then the RCAs go back to your amp.
I would shorten that ground to as little wire as possible, find a clean piece of metal close to the amp.
Power wire: make sure you have a fuse within 6 inches of the battery terminal
These are just steps to reduce the chances of noise entering your system, and also reduces other wiring issues.
They are normally installed behind the head unit, and then the RCAs go back to your amp.
I would shorten that ground to as little wire as possible, find a clean piece of metal close to the amp.
Power wire: make sure you have a fuse within 6 inches of the battery terminal
These are just steps to reduce the chances of noise entering your system, and also reduces other wiring issues.
Yes I will shorten the ground as suggested, thanks. I meant to als say the is a fuse in the positve wire about 5-6 inches back from the battery already. Again, thanks!
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