correct setup for carb @ 500ft?
#1
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Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 310 LG4
Transmission: 700R4 w/2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42
correct setup for carb @ 500ft?
I'm having an issue with my carb, if anyone saw my post in the general tech area, the car dies when i put it in gear and wont start up again for a long while. When I try to start it again (after it dies), I smell fuel from the headers.
anyway, i'm looking to get the following kit
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...7&autoview=sku
but since i've never done carb work, i was wondering what setup would work best for my altitude. I'm running 3-4 psi on the regulator now.
At one point, the regulator shot the psi up to 10psi. How can I tell if it damaged the carb in anyway?
anyway, i'm looking to get the following kit
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...7&autoview=sku
but since i've never done carb work, i was wondering what setup would work best for my altitude. I'm running 3-4 psi on the regulator now.
At one point, the regulator shot the psi up to 10psi. How can I tell if it damaged the carb in anyway?
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Car: 85' Z28
Engine: 383 roller
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.70
Set your fuel pressure before you do anything. 3-4 psi is way to low. I always start at 7.5 psi as a starting point, set the float bowl level, set the idle, then take it for a ride.
#4
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Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 310 LG4
Transmission: 700R4 w/2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42
the car runs fine at 3-4 psi, the max psi for the carb is 6, no way would i take it to 7. The carb manual says 4 psi.
How do i set the float bowl level? I've already done the idle screws, and adjusted the idle rpm.
How do i set the float bowl level? I've already done the idle screws, and adjusted the idle rpm.
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
what carb?
I think 3-4psi is too low. 6psi is about right. (hey, we all have our opinions though...)
definately check your float level, you may have dislodged your needle from the 10psi (but I highly doubt it.)
your altitude is not nearly big enough to warrant a change.
I think 3-4psi is too low. 6psi is about right. (hey, we all have our opinions though...)
definately check your float level, you may have dislodged your needle from the 10psi (but I highly doubt it.)
your altitude is not nearly big enough to warrant a change.
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Car: 85' Z28
Engine: 383 roller
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.70
I'd tell ya how to set the floats, but I've never had an eddy carb. http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ockCarburetor/
#7
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Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 310 LG4
Transmission: 700R4 w/2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by Sonix
what carb?
I think 3-4psi is too low. 6psi is about right. (hey, we all have our opinions though...)
definately check your float level, you may have dislodged your needle from the 10psi (but I highly doubt it.)
your altitude is not nearly big enough to warrant a change.
what carb?
I think 3-4psi is too low. 6psi is about right. (hey, we all have our opinions though...)
definately check your float level, you may have dislodged your needle from the 10psi (but I highly doubt it.)
your altitude is not nearly big enough to warrant a change.
But, when I let it sit, it will fire up and run until it goes into gear, then it dies and wont fire again.
Could the choke be at fault here? It's an electric choke. I've tried both with and without power to the choke and it didnt make a difference.
I'm up for anything at this point. How do I check the float level?
Edit: Thanks for that link!
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#8
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Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 310 LG4
Transmission: 700R4 w/2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42
after reading that article, I will be getting a vacuum gauge. Could incorrect vacuum be a factor in my problem?
#9
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Sounds like a hot soak starting problem. What intake manifold? A performer manifold usually always runs way too hot and cooks the carb if the exhaust heat raiser passages between the manifold and heads are fully open.
Either block them both off or block one side and restrict the other side to reduce the manifold plenum heating.
When the car is hot the choke must be fully open.
When restarting the car hot after a hot stall, hold the throttle to the floor and crank er over to clear the excess fuel in the manifold. the fuel in the carbs bowls is getting too hot.
its vapourizing a little too well causing a over rich mixture.
Getting the heat under control will solve it.
A mechanical fuel pump and or fuel lines near the exhaust will add a lot of heat to the fuel. all this contributees to overheated fuel.
Either block them both off or block one side and restrict the other side to reduce the manifold plenum heating.
When the car is hot the choke must be fully open.
When restarting the car hot after a hot stall, hold the throttle to the floor and crank er over to clear the excess fuel in the manifold. the fuel in the carbs bowls is getting too hot.
its vapourizing a little too well causing a over rich mixture.
Getting the heat under control will solve it.
A mechanical fuel pump and or fuel lines near the exhaust will add a lot of heat to the fuel. all this contributees to overheated fuel.
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Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 310 LG4
Transmission: 700R4 w/2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Now we are getting places. So, I have a performer manafold, with egr blocked off. I'm running electric pump to a regulator to the card, no mechanical. So where are the heat riser passages? Do I need to take off the manafold to block them off?
Also, why would this be a problem on a brand new setup? everything is 100% new. Should I get a plastic spacer for the carb? I have two gaskets, one between my manifold and my tv made ez kit bracket, then one between my bracket and the carb.
I do have lines close to the header, but not that close. I am going to coat the headers with ceramic paint, you think that will help? I have nothing extra on the car, just what it needs to run, everything else was gutted.
Also, why would this be a problem on a brand new setup? everything is 100% new. Should I get a plastic spacer for the carb? I have two gaskets, one between my manifold and my tv made ez kit bracket, then one between my bracket and the carb.
I do have lines close to the header, but not that close. I am going to coat the headers with ceramic paint, you think that will help? I have nothing extra on the car, just what it needs to run, everything else was gutted.
#11
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wood is a better heat isolator use a wooden spacer.
move the fuel lines.
move the fuel lines.
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Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 310 LG4
Transmission: 700R4 w/2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Well, I figured out my problem. I explain it here
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...72#post2763372
but basically, I moved the rod that controls the pump lever to the last spot for less fuel per pump and it worked. I drove it around the parking lot with no bog or it dying, and it started back up when I shut it off.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...72#post2763372
but basically, I moved the rod that controls the pump lever to the last spot for less fuel per pump and it worked. I drove it around the parking lot with no bog or it dying, and it started back up when I shut it off.
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