CarburetorsCarb discussion and questions. Upgrading a Third Gen carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.
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Okay, so I got this book "How to Rebuild And Modify Rochester Quadrajet Carburetors" due to the fact that this would be my first rebuild. Anyhow, I was at the step where I remove the idle tubes and they just won't come out. I'm afraid now, that i may have got some shavings down there. Is there any step to get these out still? The book had me punch the tube in just a smidge and then use a screw with the tip removed to engage the collar, pull with some pliers and wha lah.. Problem is that the screw just kinda kept eating away at the collar and when it did connect it put too much pressure against the walls of the hole making it **seemingly** impossible to pull out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Eddie.
okay, so after grinding down my like fifth screw, I got one that finally held on perfecto. Any other hints and tricks would be pretty awesome though thanks
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Last edited by osirus; 11-09-2008 at 01:31 AM.
Reason: persistance
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Yeah, it looks tons cleaner now and I'm just over half way through putting it back together. Of course, this would be one of my projects if I didn't make one boo boo here and there. That being, I didn't record the position of ANY of the mixture screws that I took off. Anybody know a good place for those to be set??
how about that screw that is at the float? This is my first carb rebuild. It's going alright so far. I just don't know how to get that screw adjusted. Also, how can I make it easier to button it back up? I tried to just mock fit it and I had a horrid time with this hook that wouldn't go in...
When you say 'gage tool' to you mean like calipers or something else entirely? If it's something else, Then, no. the kit came with to stupid paper 'L' rulers, the calipers are my own.
When you say 'gage tool' to you mean like calipers or something else entirely? If it's something else, Then, no. the kit came with to stupid paper 'L' rulers, the calipers are my own.
If my memory serves me correct there were 5 full turns of adjustment, from rich to lean. I would bottom it and back it out 2 1/2 full turns if you don't have the right tool to set it. Bottomed out is lean and backing it out richens it up.
if it's rich the exhaust probably smells & mpg goes down. there's a analog dwell meter that's used to set idle air mixture. but as for the guage, after I couldn't find one anywhere I made one from a ball point pen. worked ok.
Yeah, I have a set. I used it to check my float level. Could you possibly tell me in idiotic terms how to adjust that screw? (note: aside from screwing clockwise/counterclockwise.()
How did you use the pen as a gauge? I couldn't find one in town and i was hoping for some way of doing this at least somewhat correctly
the outer casing of a pen that I had fit over the metering jet just like in figure 6C1-10 (picture 3B6C10); I used a mechanics metal ruler marked off in 1/64" to measure a close approximation to the set distance, 1.304", and then used a hack saw to cut the tube. My homemade gauge got me pretty close. I used a small pair of needle nose plyers to adjust the lean-mixture screw (same picture). the calipers sound simplier - hope if they work!
I used a piece of dowel measured and marked for a float gauge mentioned in picture 6C1-14.
On the top, is a piece of tubing that I cut and ground down to as close as I could get it. on the bottom is a piece of metal that i modded for my calibration tool. fun stuff huh? So, I just slide that tube onto the jet and tighten until when I push down, it just touches?
Edit:Okay, so I went ahead and gave it a try with that tube. got it to exactly 1.304. verified with the calipers. yay for me?
On the top, is a piece of tubing that I cut and ground down to as close as I could get it. on the bottom is a piece of metal that i modded for my calibration tool. fun stuff huh? So, I just slide that tube onto the jet and tighten until when I push down, it just touches?
Edit:Okay, so I went ahead and gave it a try with that tube. got it to exactly 1.304. verified with the calipers. yay for me?
very cool! now adjust rich stop to 1/8", the float and put back together.
That's what's listed as basic setting. when mine was srcewed tight against the body of the carb (zero" of play) I couldn't adjust the carb once it was all back together & on car (carb burned way rich). so, rich stop needs needs ~ an 1/8" between carb casting and the top of the rich stop (+ or - 1/16").
6C1-12 shows the bottom side of carb wher you can easily get at the rich stop to adjust. it has 2 flat sides that allow a pair of plyers or maybe an open box wrench to move, if the rich stop happens to be tight against the casting. If it's already set a small distance away from the top of carb, and the carb worked correctly at some point before rebulding, then measure the distance and leave the rich stop there, might just be the factory setting/distance/measurement.
once the carb's together then 6C1-14 shows an elusive tool I could never find anywhere. you don't adjust this unless the dwell meter never sets to 30 degrees on 6 cyl scale (50% dwell). finally used a pair of surgical tweezers to adjst when the carb was back on the car.
Okay. I needed to know if there was anything special about putting all that choke crud back on. I fiddled with it for a while tonight after work and i got it to where everything fit, but is there something I should be looking out for? I really want to finish this rebuild and it seems that after this the only thing left would be fine tuning on the car.
there's a link to a bunch of pictures of the choke setup as I figured it would be. It really only seemed to fit one way, but I could be wrong as I usually am.
I really need to know how to adjust that mixture screw so I can finish that carb. 
) 
