philthyhimself

Ok... lets see.

Problems starts when I start up the car. Won't just turn on so I give a little gas she turns on. But She idles high (between 1000 and 2000 rpms). Won't come back down either.

After awhile driving... she may idle lower (in drive)... But as soon as you put in PARK she idles HIGH. 2000, and sounds like it's getting higher.

2 days ago that's all she did. Didn't drive it yesterday... Well went to go get some cleaning supplies and....

She did all the above and then when I went to shut her off. Well she conked out bad... Did it again on the drive home. The engines conks out when the cars shut off. Opened the hood... tad bit of smoke coming out around the nut that holds the air cleaner (stock 305 air cleaner assembly).

Any thoughts? Worst case and best case... If it isn't something simple that someone can help me with (or any local AZ guys... i'd be more than happy to have help).. I'm gonna have to take her to the shop...

I just got her last Weds. ****! 60,000 original miles... recent tune up...hmmm too good to be true.

Aldakoopa

What do you mean "conks out after she shuts off"? Is it dieseling?

philthyhimself

It shakes.. makes like a "clunk, clunk, clunk..." Might be the same sound when a carb is flooded? i dunno my last f-body was fuel injected.

Aldakoopa

Dieseling is when the car continues to run (although very roughly) after you turn it off from being too hot. Is that what it's doing? And have you tried adjusting your idle speed screw lower?

philthyhimself

ok maybe that is what it's doing... Yeah it makes the noises and shakes even though the ignition is all the way off.

I really wish I was good with cars under the hood. No i haven't adjusted it. Where is that located? I'll probably have to take off the aircleaner to see it right?

Aldakoopa

Yeah, take the air cleaner all the way off, and on the driver's side of the carburetor you should see the all the throttle workings hooked up to the linkage from the accelerator. If you pull on that with the car running, it should rev the engine up, and when you let go of it it rests on a little screw, you should be able to find it if you look close enough in good lighting. It should have a kinda small torx head on it, and you can loosen that to lower the idle speed.

As for the dieseling, your engine is running too hot. It happened to me before, one time it kept running for 15 minutes after I cut the ignition off. You should check out the cooling system to cure that.

Aldakoopa

Your carb may not look exactly like this, but if it's a Rochester Quadrajet, the screw will still be in the same place.

philthyhimself

Ok. Thanks soooo much man. I'll try to adjust the idling...

Ummm what should the temp gauge read? Damn that sucks that it's running hot right at start thats weird. I'll double check all my fluids in the AM...esp coolant.

Aldakoopa

If the car is completely stock, it should have a normal operating temperature of at least 220* if not more, which isn't good but is the way it came from the factory. You can try replacing the 190 thermostat with a 160 (located on the front of the intake manifold with a hose going to the top drivers side of the radiator). The fans also come on at a high temp, so you might have to change the coolant sensor for the fans. You can find more out about all this in the cooling section of the boards. Check out the sticky threads at the top, they have plenty of information about it.

92 Camaro

iTrader: (1)

don't get a 160.

naf

iTrader: (7)

It's not necessarily running too hot. In fact if the coolant isn't boiling over it's NOT running too hot. Don't expect to solve anything by changing a t-stat out. The factory settings are fine for a motor in tune.

Run-on, or dieseling, is caused by too much air getting into the cylinders with the throttle blades shut. A vacuum leak is a likely cuprit, also check your choke to ensure it's opening completely and the throttle is coming off the high idle cam.

A higher idle in park, with no load, also indicates a vacuum leak. Check all of your hoses. If you need to, cap all of your vacuum ports then reconnect them one at a time.

Verify your timing.

philthyhimself

Thanks guys. This has really helped. I hope I can figure it out...

Anyone have a pic of which hoses to check...

naf

iTrader: (7)

First check to make sure your choke is off when the engine is warm (choke blades 90 degrees straight up) and that the throttle is coming off of the fast idle cam (under the choke cover). You can tell by verifying that the throttle is resting on the CURB idle set screw, shown above, when it's warm.

You can cap every vacuum port on the carb and the one on the manifold in back and see if the idle changes. You'll need to leave the vac line to the VAC sensor connected though-it's the one rear of carb towards passenger side. If your brakes work fine you can usually discount a leak in the vac line to the booster system-but you can plug this too if you want to check it, just don't drive with it disconnected. I usually do this with a dwell meter or scanner attached to look for a change in ECM response as I hook each line up individually. Other options:

"Rent" a mityvac brake bleeder/vac tester from AZ or one of the others and check each vac system for leaks manually. The manifold line that provides accessory vacuum will take quite a few pumps to hold any vacuum, the rest will check out pretty quickly.

Spray some starter fluid or carb cleaner around suspected leaks. The rpms will increase when some gets sucked into a leak. I don't use this method any more as it's less accurate.

philthyhimself

Thanks guys. This helped alot.

The main problem whoever "adjusted" the carb last f'd it up. They just rigged it and it was getting stuck open.