V8Astro Captain

iTrader: (1)

I was able to drive the Impala home for the first time on Friday. After finding out that my emulation ribbon cable is bad (that was fun in traffic) I was able to pop a 29C256 in and use that until a replacement arrives.

I have a serious issue with medium load driving. I noticed when I apply medium throttle it will run ok until it enters Async mode. It goes dangerously lean. The first time I found this out I got a couple hard bangs out the intake.

I have included a datalog and the bin that was in use. There are some screwy setting, the BPC vs. VAC being one of them. I'm using that as a band aid until I can get some suggestions on what to do with the Async mode.

I think once I get over this obstacle things will run smoothly. I've got a good grasp on the prop gain stuff thanks to members' help in the other thread.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Force the fueling sync and eliminate async all togather.

I am not sure what you mean by BPWC. You need it set to match the characteristics of your regulator.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

To disable async mode set these two values to 0:

INJ - Async transition Hi
INJ - Async transition Lo

Are you running a FPR that is manifold referenced?

RBob.

V8Astro Captain

iTrader: (1)

I disabled async using that method. I also fudged the numbers in the BPC table. It run much better now, although not perfect.

The FPR is referenced to the manifold, under the blower. If I use the xls spreadsheet the numbers are about 10-15 too LOW at 60 kPa.

I'll post another datalog soon. Along with a pic of the BPC table.

V8Astro Captain

iTrader: (1)

I went for another drive tonight. Looks like I make 2psi at 38% throttle and 2300 rpm. My PE enable is set at 50-60% so tomorrow I will try setting it at 35%.

Concerning the boost PW multiplier table...does this affect PE only? Or is it in effect when under boost no matter what?

If it does affect closed loop PW will it make the BLM fall?

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

BOOST pulsewidth modifier is used at ALL times when you have boost. Whether in PE or not.

V8Astro Captain

iTrader: (1)

Would you suggest I set the PE enable at 35% or raise the values in the boost PW mutiplier table?

At this point I ask only because trial and error could result in the pistons swapping holes = bad

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Until the ECM goes into PE mode the commanded AFR will be 14.7:1 (or the stoich setting). With that and staying closed loop the INTegrator will adjust the PW to the closed loop O2 window.

From the log it looks like the forced async injection under load is enabled. If so, I would disable it. Currently the DC% isn't high enough to require it.

Are you still doing VE Learns?

RBob.

V8Astro Captain

iTrader: (1)

Ok. So the boost PW multiplier table won't help me (in this case) until I go to PE or open loop.

I have disabled the Async mode using your setting previously stated.

I haven't done any VE learns yet because I've been fudging the BPC tables to make it driveable. I've been working them back and forth, I figure VE learn would complicate matters.

thanks for the help so far all

RBob

iTrader: (1)

For the high RPM/MAP async mode disable it by setting these to 100 KPa (for MAP), and 6375 for RPM:

INJ - Low RPM to Exit High Load ASync
INJ - Low MAP to Exit High Load ASync
INJ - High RPM to Enter High Load ASync
INJ - High MAP to Enter High Load ASync

The parameters above (in post #3) will disable the short pulse width switch to async mode fueling.

RBob.

V8Astro Captain

iTrader: (1)

Disabling Async all togther has helped tremendously. At this point the INT is somewhat stable on the highway. I ended up multiplying the Prop gain vs. airflow table by .45. Yup, in half as dimented24x7 called it.

I still have a lean bog (almost sneeze out the intake but not quite) at high MAP. It takes ~35% throttle to get to 100kPa. I'm thinking once I get the VE tables close to 128 in most areas I might have to try using the open loop delta TPS% qualifier. I just don't think 14.1:1 is enough fuel in the 80-110 kPa range before I get into PE.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

The other thing you can do once you get fueling close is enable open loop cruise. That will en-able you to richen things up by running off the Open Loop AFR vs. CTS. vs. MAP table. Also try adding some TPS/MAP AE. Finally I would 0 out the Launch mode spark advance.

Z69

I'm not sure how Rbob did it in his code.
But 8D has a TPS & MAP(vac) qualifier for PE.
So in your example, the TPS qual could be set very low and not go into PE until the MAP setting was hit.
This may lead to going into PE in hilly terrain or similar load inducing situations.
With your blown app., even higher rpm will require an even lower TPS PE qual I'd imagine.
There was some discussion a few yrs back about whether PE should be map or tps based....

Edit-actually the map qual is a min map to enable & is set very low so that PE is basically always controlled by the TPS.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Get the ECM into PE mode before you hit the high MAP. Do this by lowering the TPS% to enable PE for the RPM in question. I usually set it up for less TPS% at lower RPM's. As it doesn't take as much TPS to load the engine.

open loop delta TPS% qualifier if this is the transient open loop, don't use it for this. Disable it and use the PE mode.

RBob.

V8Astro Captain

iTrader: (1)

I'll try lowering the TPS% for PE instead of the transient open loop. Thanks!

Also, because of my 4" cowl I have 195°F coolant temps and ambient IAT temps (~37°F this morning) on the hiway. The BLM's showed a bit lean (~135) which I'm sure is because of the temp difference. Which table would you recommend I adjust?

I told the mrs. I was going to buy a WB O2 soon. She gave me "the look" and I told her I could continue with trial and error for a while and spend another $4000 on a second engine hahaha Suddenly the WB O2 was a good idea

V8Astro Captain

iTrader: (1)

I found out my fuel pump is too small. I know...this is bad. I got it from a friend who was running his BBC with it. I guess my engine needs more juice than a 468 at times. Anyway, my ZT-2 WB should be here tomorrow along with my high pressure Walbro 255 lph pump.

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

a tip on the WB02 sensor....i have the Innovate LM1. i will assume your unit is similar.

1. do not power up the WB02 until you start car. the initial shock to a hot sensor can damage it. as soon as engine is started i hit the on switch which begins the heating of the sensor.

2. do not leave unit "on" overnight. i did and it will damage it(sensor).

3. do not have unit on when starter engages. voltage spikes will damage it.

i have since permanently wired mine to car. ign on(fuel pump on) unit is on, when fuel pump shuts off unit is off; starter on unit is off; when engine starts unit is on. now it is idiot proof.

V8Astro Captain

iTrader: (1)

I plan to power it thru the oil pressure switch that currently runs my NB O2 heater (+12v when running, no power on crank). I was going to wire an override off switch just in case.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Likely youd want to tinker with the IAT/CTS blending multiplier or an IAT fuel correction multiplier table if its present. This is sort of a crap shoot with TBI, though, since the density of the air is essentially unkown after it interacts with the fuel and passes through the blower.

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

sounds like my situation exactly. no cold air ducting(yet) just the old school round AC on TBI unit. Morning temps early season 40 deg F and soon after manifold heat sinks it should rise considerably. Now if I could only get my IAT to work! will work on that soon.

91L98Z28

Is this the current consensus on how to care for a WBO2? I have a DIYWB from a few years back, and back then we powered it up and waited 45-60 seconds for the LED to go on indicating the heater was up to temp, and then you started the car.

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

I was told the opposite by Innovate. when the heater is heated to operating temp and the cold-cold engine starts the condensation within the exhaust tract will shock the sensor and damage it. i suspect that it is wired same on OEM use?? same with voltage spikes on starter engage. that event may hurt controller rather than sensor. unit off when starter engage. this is popular topic on innovate forum.

i wired it as stated and had first complete year of use on sensor. the sensor part # i believe is used on honda civic and VW models. about $45 plus ship thru parts house. i would also use a stainless bung rather than a steel one as it is impossible to remove without damage to sensor threads.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The DIY-WB has good power input protection. No issues with starter kick-back and such.

It is true that condensate hitting a hot sensor can damage it. This is one of the reasons that the sensor should be installed in the upper half of the exhaust pipe. For many years now I have pre-heated and post heated (from startup) the WB without any issue. I may have been just lucky so far.

RBob.
----------
I am in total agreement. I've since switched to using 303 or 304 SS for the bung material. I found as you did that regular old steel doesn't hold up to the heat and moisture. The sensors end up glued in.

RBob.

V8Astro Captain

iTrader: (1)

I'd like to thank RBob again for making a fantastic tuning device for super-cheap and for offering nearly 24 hour tuning assistance. I would also like to thank all those along the way who answer my questions and contributed to my threads.

The results are spectacular for an unfinished tune. I went from 14 mpg with the Qjet to what you see in the mpg attachment.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Mic,

That is great, I am glad things are coming togather for you. Looks like alot of fun, considering I know what 4 psi of boost will do for that 350.