Car wont crant...wait 5+ mins and fires right up
10-03-2003, 04:20 AM
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Car wont crant...wait 5+ mins and fires right up
I have a very odd problem and it happens occasionally and very oddly...I go to crank my car (92 RS) and all electronics work, radio, lights, gauges, etc.....and the car wont do anyhting when I turn the key...there is no odd sounds or anyhting when this happens...the started is brand new as well....i have even tried tapping the started to no avail...but if I jsut sit there and wait about 3-5+ mins it will crank up wiht no problem at all...and it seems I will sit for longer durations of time if I get impatient and try to crank over and over kind of deal, almost as if it is on some sort of timer.....any ideas as to what oculd be the problem or possibly how to fix it?
10-03-2003, 11:57 AM
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Car: 1998 Camaro
Engine: V-6 200 HP
Transmission: T-5
Are you holding your key in the start position for 3-5 min or just waiting 3-5 then try to start it again? Well if all your accessorys work and its a brand new stater so you say then there should be no problem there. YOu might want to make sure that all your connections are secure or maybe take a wire brush to them to clean them up a bit. Other than that you might have a problem in your wiring. Which we can get to later on.
10-03-2003, 01:18 PM
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Your car should have the VATS system in it. There is the possibility that either the contacts in your ignition switch are starting to get worn or the key is. If you have a good spare key, try that in the ignition. I just tried the key that came with the new ignition switch in my car as a test since this key doesn't have a pellet in it. The pump came on and everything worked except it had no power to the starter.
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10-03-2003, 04:53 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro Rs
Engine: 305 tbi
I had the same problem it was the VAT. They key had got really old and warn out. If you don't have a spare go to a locksmith they should be able to make you a new key for about 27 dollars.
If your key is really bad they might not be able to get a reading from it. This is a very bad senerio since GM only keeps key records for ten years.
Good Luck
Scott
If your key is really bad they might not be able to get a reading from it. This is a very bad senerio since GM only keeps key records for ten years.
Good Luck
Scott
10-04-2003, 02:13 AM
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well my firned swears it is possibly starter selinoid, but i htink maybe the reader or wahtever part of the car does the code match up is bad...I have tried different keys before...and no its not wiht me holding the key in for 3-5 mins...i gottta take the key out and wait, then it will crank...
starter is only like a month or 2 old...I installed it myself....dont think its battary connections or starter connections as I have checked thous...
i know my 92 caddilac deville had the same problem...car got totalled before i needed to look into the problem...
starter is only like a month or 2 old...I installed it myself....dont think its battary connections or starter connections as I have checked thous...
i know my 92 caddilac deville had the same problem...car got totalled before i needed to look into the problem...
10-04-2003, 02:53 AM
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
sounds like the VATS system...
quick rundown:
when you start your car, it checks to see if the proper resistance is in the key.... now if there is, it starts, if it doesnt see the proper amount, it doesnt start... and it starts a timer..
the car will not start until that timer is up. and everytime you attempt to start it again, it adds to that timer.
if you have tried more then one VATS key, then i would probly come to the conclusion that the connectors for the vats are worn or corroded..
first id make sure the key was clean... then i would spray a lil WD40 on both sides and push the key in and out a few times... my reasoning here would be that if something like soda had spilled on the key, and the key transfered it over to the contacts the WD 40 should help clean it out some..
if that doesnt work, you will probly have to replace the contacts.... that envolves taking the column apart.... and is a PITA.
quick rundown:
when you start your car, it checks to see if the proper resistance is in the key.... now if there is, it starts, if it doesnt see the proper amount, it doesnt start... and it starts a timer..
the car will not start until that timer is up. and everytime you attempt to start it again, it adds to that timer.
if you have tried more then one VATS key, then i would probly come to the conclusion that the connectors for the vats are worn or corroded..
first id make sure the key was clean... then i would spray a lil WD40 on both sides and push the key in and out a few times... my reasoning here would be that if something like soda had spilled on the key, and the key transfered it over to the contacts the WD 40 should help clean it out some..
if that doesnt work, you will probly have to replace the contacts.... that envolves taking the column apart.... and is a PITA.
10-04-2003, 08:09 AM
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
If you have tried several keys with the same result, I would have to say that it is the ignition lock that is the culprit in this case. If the key is not recognized on the first try, it takes the VATS about 4 - 5 minutes to reset itself. The only other possible culprit would be the VATS module mounted behind the instrument panel. Do not spray any wd40 into the ignition lock or on the key or you will have an even bigger mess on your hand. WD40 will leave a film on the pellet contacts inside the lock and make it even harder for it to read the code in the pellet..One of the wires for the ignition lock might also be rubbing thru.
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10-04-2003, 11:14 AM
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Camaro of Solar, I have the exact same problem with my 89 Camaro RS. I have heard all of the things mentioned previously.
Mine only does it when the engine is hot. Never when first starting it up. According to our guys on the forum, the starter solenoid is getting heat soaked causing it to not start. I bought a heat shield from Jeg's but that did not work, for it would not start again after a trip to the mall which is 20 mins away. The starter is only about four months old. The dealer checked everything out and said no electrical problems. I recently purchased a remote starter solenoid from Jeg's. This will cure the heat soaked problem. Some guys said they just pulled the fuse to the VATS.
The only problem with that your car will not be protected from theft. I will install the solenoid next week. I will let everyone know
the results.
Mine only does it when the engine is hot. Never when first starting it up. According to our guys on the forum, the starter solenoid is getting heat soaked causing it to not start. I bought a heat shield from Jeg's but that did not work, for it would not start again after a trip to the mall which is 20 mins away. The starter is only about four months old. The dealer checked everything out and said no electrical problems. I recently purchased a remote starter solenoid from Jeg's. This will cure the heat soaked problem. Some guys said they just pulled the fuse to the VATS.
The only problem with that your car will not be protected from theft. I will install the solenoid next week. I will let everyone know
the results.
10-04-2003, 01:20 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Trickster
If you have tried several keys with the same result, I would have to say that it is the ignition lock that is the culprit in this case. If the key is not recognized on the first try, it takes the VATS about 4 - 5 minutes to reset itself. The only other possible culprit would be the VATS module mounted behind the instrument panel. Do not spray any wd40 into the ignition lock or on the key or you will have an even bigger mess on your hand. WD40 will leave a film on the pellet contacts inside the lock and make it even harder for it to read the code in the pellet..One of the wires for the ignition lock might also be rubbing thru.
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you have tried several keys with the same result, I would have to say that it is the ignition lock that is the culprit in this case. If the key is not recognized on the first try, it takes the VATS about 4 - 5 minutes to reset itself. The only other possible culprit would be the VATS module mounted behind the instrument panel. Do not spray any wd40 into the ignition lock or on the key or you will have an even bigger mess on your hand. WD40 will leave a film on the pellet contacts inside the lock and make it even harder for it to read the code in the pellet..One of the wires for the ignition lock might also be rubbing thru.
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
10-04-2003, 08:47 PM
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Yes, MrDude_1,
I agree that wd40 is a mild solvent, unfortunately, it is a petroleum based solvent and will leave an oily residue on the key and also in the lock. If you wish to clean an electronic or electrical component. You want to use a cleaner, such as an electrical motor or electronic parts cleaner, that will evaporate quickly without leaving a residue. If you put some wd40 on the key and then insert it in the lock, how do you propose to remove the residue from the lock?
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!
I agree that wd40 is a mild solvent, unfortunately, it is a petroleum based solvent and will leave an oily residue on the key and also in the lock. If you wish to clean an electronic or electrical component. You want to use a cleaner, such as an electrical motor or electronic parts cleaner, that will evaporate quickly without leaving a residue. If you put some wd40 on the key and then insert it in the lock, how do you propose to remove the residue from the lock?
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!
10-04-2003, 09:47 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Trickster
Yes, MrDude_1,
I agree that wd40 is a mild solvent, unfortunately, it is a petroleum based solvent and will leave an oily residue on the key and also in the lock. If you wish to clean an electronic or electrical component. You want to use a cleaner, such as an electrical motor or electronic parts cleaner, that will evaporate quickly without leaving a residue. If you put some wd40 on the key and then insert it in the lock, how do you propose to remove the residue from the lock?
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!
Yes, MrDude_1,
I agree that wd40 is a mild solvent, unfortunately, it is a petroleum based solvent and will leave an oily residue on the key and also in the lock. If you wish to clean an electronic or electrical component. You want to use a cleaner, such as an electrical motor or electronic parts cleaner, that will evaporate quickly without leaving a residue. If you put some wd40 on the key and then insert it in the lock, how do you propose to remove the residue from the lock?
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!
you dont... while i would agree completely with you with almost any other electrical device, i do know that its not going to hurt the connection enough to effect the resistance, and i think its a bad idea to wash any of the grease away from the key lock or anything else inside the column..
WD40 will wash some grease away but its about as mild as you can get for that.. im saying use only a lil, the residue will stay on there for about a week or so, but most will land in the lock cyl over time and not harm anything... wipe off the key after you "clean" it that way though..
i know this from having someone spill soda on my keys not telling me and then i got some in my lock..
and i do agree with you with the DONT USE WD40 on electrical components.... but it wont harm the contacts that are in the column.. thats the only elec thing on that side of the column anyhoo.
Mr_Dude!!!!
lmao, btw, i get a kick outta how you put "the trickster!!!" at the end of every post
ive even watched you edit your post to add it to the end when you forgot.. lol...
10-05-2003, 12:42 AM
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I have a very similar problem in my 1991 Firebird. One small difference is, it seems to only happen on damp or rainy days. Today, it did it and when I went back about 3 hours later, the car still wouldnt start. Its sitting up at the grocery store right now in fact.
Would pulling the fuse really fix it? I am not worried about security because I have an alarm and this is very annoying. If so, where is this fuse located?
Would pulling the fuse really fix it? I am not worried about security because I have an alarm and this is very annoying. If so, where is this fuse located?
Last edited by JakeOKC; 10-05-2003 at 03:18 AM.
10-05-2003, 01:55 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by JakeOKC
I have a very similar problem in my 1991 Firebird. One small difference is, it seems to only happen on damp or rainy days. Today, it did it and when I went back about 3 hours later, the car still wouldnt start. Its sitting up at the grocery store right now in fact.
Would pulling the fuse really fix it? I am not worried about security because I have an alarm and this is very annoying. If so, where is this fuse located?
I have a very similar problem in my 1991 Firebird. One small difference is, it seems to only happen on damp or rainy days. Today, it did it and when I went back about 3 hours later, the car still wouldnt start. Its sitting up at the grocery store right now in fact.
Would pulling the fuse really fix it? I am not worried about security because I have an alarm and this is very annoying. If so, where is this fuse located?
there is no fuse.
if you could bypass it with just a fuse, it would be a pretty bad security system, eh?
the only way to bypass it is to put the proper resistor across the wires.
10-05-2003, 05:45 PM
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Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: For me to know.....
Transmission: and you to find out....
I gotta add my $.02 on this post... I TOO have the same kinda problem on my 91 Firdbird. Sometimes it starts sometimes it doesnt start. When the VAT system sees the wrong resistance value does the car still crank over? I notice that when my car DOESNT start the security light stays on. Thats why I figure the problem lies somewhere in the VAT system...whether it be the
key(s) yes Ive tried both keys...seems to happen with either key....the contact points for the keys.. or the VATS module. What do you guys think?
Dan
key(s) yes Ive tried both keys...seems to happen with either key....the contact points for the keys.. or the VATS module. What do you guys think?
Dan
10-05-2003, 06:13 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by metalhead212121
I gotta add my $.02 on this post... I TOO have the same kinda problem on my 91 Firdbird. Sometimes it starts sometimes it doesnt start. When the VAT system sees the wrong resistance value does the car still crank over? I notice that when my car DOESNT start the security light stays on. Thats why I figure the problem lies somewhere in the VAT system...whether it be the
key(s) yes Ive tried both keys...seems to happen with either key....the contact points for the keys.. or the VATS module. What do you guys think?
Dan
I gotta add my $.02 on this post... I TOO have the same kinda problem on my 91 Firdbird. Sometimes it starts sometimes it doesnt start. When the VAT system sees the wrong resistance value does the car still crank over? I notice that when my car DOESNT start the security light stays on. Thats why I figure the problem lies somewhere in the VAT system...whether it be the
key(s) yes Ive tried both keys...seems to happen with either key....the contact points for the keys.. or the VATS module. What do you guys think?
Dan
the contact points in the ign cyl.........
10-05-2003, 09:12 PM
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Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: For me to know.....
Transmission: and you to find out....
Originally posted by MrDude_1
the contact points in the ign cyl.........
the contact points in the ign cyl.........
Dan
10-05-2003, 09:42 PM
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Yes there is a good reason, when the contacts get worn, it is harder for them to make contact with the key and read the resistance code stored in it. If the car fails to start the first time, there is a timer built into the VATS control module that starts the moment the key is tried and the security light will come on. This timer must run down and reset itself before you can attempt to start the car again. It usually takes about 4 to 5 minutes for it to reset itself and the security light will go out. The more you attempt to start the car without letting the VATS module reset itself, the harder it will be to start the car and the more frustrated you will get.
A new ignition cylinder is about $50-$75.00 and a new key is about $25-$30.00 at you local dealership depending on your location. Installing the new ignition cylinder is not that hard, at least it wasn't for me.
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!
A new ignition cylinder is about $50-$75.00 and a new key is about $25-$30.00 at you local dealership depending on your location. Installing the new ignition cylinder is not that hard, at least it wasn't for me.The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!
10-06-2003, 12:26 AM
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
usually what goes bad with vats is the resistor on the key or on the ignition cylinder, their are two tiny wires that break. The latter happened to me, I did the vats bypass until I can afford a new ignition cylinder.
10-06-2003, 08:24 PM
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Car: 91 Firebird Formula
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thanks Trickster & pasky for your info.... I dont believe anyone has answered my ORGINAL question though...Is it normal for the car to turn over BUT not start when the VAT system is the problem????? Also Ive heard about those two tiny wires breaking. (Damn GM crap....why must cost efficency be more important that QUALITY!) What do these tiny wires do??? Obviously they are part of the VAT system but what exactly do they do? And when they break what do you do? Soder them back together...butt connector time????
The reason why Im very interested in this is because Im debating whether or not to do the job myself. I could have one of my co-workers do it for me (I work at a local garage) but my last day is Saturday. So I really should make a decision fast.
From what you guys are telling me I should DEFINATELY go and buy 2 new keys (have them coded to match the module/cylinder) and cylinder. Does the module go bad often? Because this job reminds me of doing plugs and wires on a DIS Igition system.....When a coil pack goes bad it "beats up" the ICM. Therefore...plugs, wires, coil pack(s) and ICM should be replaced...
Again thanks for the info.
Dan
The reason why Im very interested in this is because Im debating whether or not to do the job myself. I could have one of my co-workers do it for me (I work at a local garage) but my last day is Saturday. So I really should make a decision fast.
From what you guys are telling me I should DEFINATELY go and buy 2 new keys (have them coded to match the module/cylinder) and cylinder. Does the module go bad often? Because this job reminds me of doing plugs and wires on a DIS Igition system.....When a coil pack goes bad it "beats up" the ICM. Therefore...plugs, wires, coil pack(s) and ICM should be replaced...
Again thanks for the info.
Dan
10-06-2003, 09:49 PM
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Sorry metalhead212121,
Didn't see that question, but to answer it. No, the car will not turn over or do anything. The VATS disables the starter and will not send any pulses to the injectors when it doesn't receive the proper code from the key. You will have battery power to the lights, radio will work, windows go up & down, but the starter and injectors are disabled and the security light will come on and remain on until the timer I mentioned in the other post times out and resets the VATS module. These two wires that you are referring to are the wires that run down the steering column from the ignition lock to the VATS control module connector underneath the dash. They do sometimes have a tendency to rub through and break sometimes when they are not properly routed through the column or someone breaking the wires with their feet while pressing the brake pedal if they don't have the knee bolster panel installed. If you need information concerning the removal and replacement of the cylinder lock and cable, let me know and I will e-mail it to you
Almost forgot your question about what to do with the wires if they break. Yes you can splice them back together, a weather-proof butt connector works best. After you have finished splicing the wires you can seal the connector with a heat gun.
The VATS module itself seldom goes bad, it is located behing the dash on the passenger side near the center console,
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!
Didn't see that question, but to answer it. No, the car will not turn over or do anything. The VATS disables the starter and will not send any pulses to the injectors when it doesn't receive the proper code from the key. You will have battery power to the lights, radio will work, windows go up & down, but the starter and injectors are disabled and the security light will come on and remain on until the timer I mentioned in the other post times out and resets the VATS module. These two wires that you are referring to are the wires that run down the steering column from the ignition lock to the VATS control module connector underneath the dash. They do sometimes have a tendency to rub through and break sometimes when they are not properly routed through the column or someone breaking the wires with their feet while pressing the brake pedal if they don't have the knee bolster panel installed. If you need information concerning the removal and replacement of the cylinder lock and cable, let me know and I will e-mail it to you
Almost forgot your question about what to do with the wires if they break. Yes you can splice them back together, a weather-proof butt connector works best. After you have finished splicing the wires you can seal the connector with a heat gun.
The VATS module itself seldom goes bad, it is located behing the dash on the passenger side near the center console,
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!
10-06-2003, 10:47 PM
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Car: 91 Firebird Formula
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Trickster
IF its not a big deal could you email me the "how to" on the cylinder and key??? I always THOUGHT that the car would not crank at all if the VAT system was the problem. My car cranks...but the security light stays on. I find this odd to say the least. This is why Im wondering if my problem is not VAT related. I hear the fuel pump prime the system...so Im pretty confident that fuel isnt the problem. I just recently replaced the ignition coil, pickup, and module because I had a "no start when hot"/rev limiting problem. Both problems havent come back since Ive done these repairs. This is why I feel it isnt spark related...I havent checked for spark/fuel pressure since the security light stays on..
I have by-passed (with a paperclip)what I believe is somesort of P/N saftey switch. This couldnt be why the car cranks/security lights says on could it??? I highly doubt this is related to my orginal problem (cranks but wont start)
Thanks again for your help...
Dan
IF its not a big deal could you email me the "how to" on the cylinder and key??? I always THOUGHT that the car would not crank at all if the VAT system was the problem. My car cranks...but the security light stays on. I find this odd to say the least. This is why Im wondering if my problem is not VAT related. I hear the fuel pump prime the system...so Im pretty confident that fuel isnt the problem. I just recently replaced the ignition coil, pickup, and module because I had a "no start when hot"/rev limiting problem. Both problems havent come back since Ive done these repairs. This is why I feel it isnt spark related...I havent checked for spark/fuel pressure since the security light stays on..
I have by-passed (with a paperclip)what I believe is somesort of P/N saftey switch. This couldnt be why the car cranks/security lights says on could it??? I highly doubt this is related to my orginal problem (cranks but wont start)
Thanks again for your help...
Dan
10-06-2003, 11:31 PM
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
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Ok, metalhead212121
No it is not a big deal for me to compile this information and e-mail it to you. It will be in a PDF format and will probably be in several files. I do not have all the information at hand at the moment so I will send it to you tomorrow. I am also including the information I have on trouble shooting and diagnosing the VATS. There is an area there that describes the problem that you are having with the security light and the fact that the engine cranks but will not start. Look for some big files in your e-mail tomorrow and I hope your e-mail box is big enough to handle them. 
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!
No it is not a big deal for me to compile this information and e-mail it to you. It will be in a PDF format and will probably be in several files. I do not have all the information at hand at the moment so I will send it to you tomorrow. I am also including the information I have on trouble shooting and diagnosing the VATS. There is an area there that describes the problem that you are having with the security light and the fact that the engine cranks but will not start. Look for some big files in your e-mail tomorrow and I hope your e-mail box is big enough to handle them.
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!
10-07-2003, 07:14 PM
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Originally posted by Trickster
Ok metalhead212121 and FASTRS, you have mail.:lala: :lala:
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ok metalhead212121 and FASTRS, you have mail.:lala: :lala:
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!
10-08-2003, 03:06 AM
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Hello everyone, just wanted to let everyone know the results of the remote starter solenoid being installed on my 89 Camaro.
I want to thank a great forum member who is very bright when it comes to all F-bodies. AKA Trans Am #5. He installed the remote starter solenoid from Jeg's, the one for around $25.0. I was having the problem of the car not starting when it was driven on the expressway. Today I drove it on the expressway for a while,
got her home shut her down, and she started right back up. It appears that the heat soaked solenoid problem is solved because the solenoid is mounted on the inside of the fender near the battery. TA#5
:hail: :yourock: :rockon:
I want to thank a great forum member who is very bright when it comes to all F-bodies. AKA Trans Am #5. He installed the remote starter solenoid from Jeg's, the one for around $25.0. I was having the problem of the car not starting when it was driven on the expressway. Today I drove it on the expressway for a while,
got her home shut her down, and she started right back up. It appears that the heat soaked solenoid problem is solved because the solenoid is mounted on the inside of the fender near the battery. TA#5
:hail: :yourock: :rockon:
10-08-2003, 10:50 AM
#30
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Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: Lt1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by Wallace
Hello everyone, just wanted to let everyone know the results of the remote starter solenoid being installed on my 89 Camaro.
I want to thank a great forum member who is very bright when it comes to all F-bodies. AKA Trans Am #5. He installed the remote starter solenoid from Jeg's, the one for around $25.0. I was having the problem of the car not starting when it was driven on the expressway. Today I drove it on the expressway for a while,
got her home shut her down, and she started right back up. It appears that the heat soaked solenoid problem is solved because the solenoid is mounted on the inside of the fender near the battery. TA#5
:hail: :yourock: :rockon:
Hello everyone, just wanted to let everyone know the results of the remote starter solenoid being installed on my 89 Camaro.
I want to thank a great forum member who is very bright when it comes to all F-bodies. AKA Trans Am #5. He installed the remote starter solenoid from Jeg's, the one for around $25.0. I was having the problem of the car not starting when it was driven on the expressway. Today I drove it on the expressway for a while,
got her home shut her down, and she started right back up. It appears that the heat soaked solenoid problem is solved because the solenoid is mounted on the inside of the fender near the battery. TA#5
:hail: :yourock: :rockon:
10-10-2003, 10:45 PM
#31
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alright so buying the kit form jegs will solve the problem?
here is an Idea I was tossing around in my head...
seems like a way to get around all the issues and work that oculd be going on wiht the resistor, reader and all that can be solved by getting to the cable and putting a resistor in its place...the down fall of course being loss of the theft deturrance...well how about setting up a switch relay that has the resistor on one side of it, and breaks the line off, thus disableing the car form starting when the switch is off....now lets say said switch was hidden, or mixed in with the several other switches located in the car....I am pretty sure a theif will not have the mentality to try to figure out what is going on...he will flip a few switches that will pop onlights and turn a fan on, etc....maybe even hit a strobe light...which with all the lights he will give up pretty fast due to not wanting to get caught....
here is an Idea I was tossing around in my head...
seems like a way to get around all the issues and work that oculd be going on wiht the resistor, reader and all that can be solved by getting to the cable and putting a resistor in its place...the down fall of course being loss of the theft deturrance...well how about setting up a switch relay that has the resistor on one side of it, and breaks the line off, thus disableing the car form starting when the switch is off....now lets say said switch was hidden, or mixed in with the several other switches located in the car....I am pretty sure a theif will not have the mentality to try to figure out what is going on...he will flip a few switches that will pop onlights and turn a fan on, etc....maybe even hit a strobe light...which with all the lights he will give up pretty fast due to not wanting to get caught....
04-10-2007, 05:14 PM
#32
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Re: Car wont crant...wait 5+ mins and fires right up
Sorry metalhead212121,
Didn't see that question, but to answer it. No, the car will not turn over or do anything. The VATS disables the starter and will not send any pulses to the injectors when it doesn't receive the proper code from the key. You will have battery power to the lights, radio will work, windows go up & down, but the starter and injectors are disabled and the security light will come on and remain on until the timer I mentioned in the other post times out and resets the VATS module. These two wires that you are referring to are the wires that run down the steering column from the ignition lock to the VATS control module connector underneath the dash. They do sometimes have a tendency to rub through and break sometimes when they are not properly routed through the column or someone breaking the wires with their feet while pressing the brake pedal if they don't have the knee bolster panel installed. If you need information concerning the removal and replacement of the cylinder lock and cable, let me know and I will e-mail it to you
Almost forgot your question about what to do with the wires if they break. Yes you can splice them back together, a weather-proof butt connector works best. After you have finished splicing the wires you can seal the connector with a heat gun.
The VATS module itself seldom goes bad, it is located behing the dash on the passenger side near the center console,
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!
Didn't see that question, but to answer it. No, the car will not turn over or do anything. The VATS disables the starter and will not send any pulses to the injectors when it doesn't receive the proper code from the key. You will have battery power to the lights, radio will work, windows go up & down, but the starter and injectors are disabled and the security light will come on and remain on until the timer I mentioned in the other post times out and resets the VATS module. These two wires that you are referring to are the wires that run down the steering column from the ignition lock to the VATS control module connector underneath the dash. They do sometimes have a tendency to rub through and break sometimes when they are not properly routed through the column or someone breaking the wires with their feet while pressing the brake pedal if they don't have the knee bolster panel installed. If you need information concerning the removal and replacement of the cylinder lock and cable, let me know and I will e-mail it to you
Almost forgot your question about what to do with the wires if they break. Yes you can splice them back together, a weather-proof butt connector works best. After you have finished splicing the wires you can seal the connector with a heat gun.
The VATS module itself seldom goes bad, it is located behing the dash on the passenger side near the center console,
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!
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