Cerridius

Ok, So I'm on the final stretch of my engine swap. Got the T56 finally behind my 400, got everything put back together. Just got a few things left but I'm having alot of trouble with the wires.

I went from TBI to Carb and well I got the wires out of the computer and I know you need the stuff on the driver side, but some of those wires go into the passenger ECM. As much as I did not want to have the wires cut... My granpa who is helping persisted they needed cut, So I'm hoping what he did was fine.

Well What I want to know is what I need to get the car started. How many wires go to the starter, how I get the fuel pump to work with a Mallory FPR and I guess just the remaining stuff like all the gauges.

Cerridius

He mostly only cut the wires that had 1 wire spliced into 2 other wires.. I mean I guess you have to cut some of the wires to get that stuff off. =/
I wanted to connect what was needed, then once its running fine. Cut.

mrrman

wow...I am glad that I am not doing that....good luck with that

89z28iroc-z

I'm in the same boat as u buddy. Don't just go cutting away i messed up doing that. I have no power to the fuse box now and i'm wishing i would of got the car running before i cut the wires out. Far as the fuel pump goes i just bought a universal 30amp relay and wired it up to that because i cut all the stock fuel pump wires under the hood. If your still gonna use the hei distributor keep your distributor hot wire that goes to the the starter running from the c100 connector. You can also just wire your fan or fans on a universal relay. Keep the wires to the alternator. Keep you wiper motor wires also. Far as the heat and a/c goes it all depends if your gonna keep that or not. I'm gonna buy the a/c delete box off line so i can keep my heater. If someone else has some more input that would be great for him and me also.

TreeFiddy

Holy crap - why would an engine swap need such wiring mayhem! Should have just discreetly tied back / hidden whatever wasn't required, in case u ever need it again in future. Hope ol' Grampaw knows what he cut!

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

First off, unhook the C100 and pull it back off the car. Too much of a rats nest to work with like that

Next, give this a glance, might answer a few more questions, but it seems like this process was mostly done

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...p-3rd-gen.html

Good practice is to tag the individual wires as they're cut free so you can route them correctly in a timely fashion upon reinstallation

Remember, the fuel pump wire goes through the C207 for 88's. If retaining the stock electric pump, this wire must stay. If using only a mechanical pump on the block, the intank pump needs to be removed, but the C207 and fuel relay can be removed entirely

To get the car running, the two large red cables from the C100 go to 12v battery, pink cable goes to the distributor, large ppl to the starter solenoid

Gauges:
Speedo is mechanical, unchanged
Tach is white wire from dist
Coolant is green wire from C100
Oil is tan wire from C100
Voltage is unchanged (measured from the system)
Fuel is unchanged

Alt connector depends on the alt, for stock, the tan/wht wire gets 12v IGN generally paired with the fan relay fuse. Red cable battery 12v

Fan control is up to you, but reusing the TBI thermal switch is a good method

Cerridius

Is this the C207? So I have to plug this back into the computer for the fuel pump to work? Witch Pink cable goes to the Distributer? The large one coming out of the C100? How does that wire to the distributer?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Thats the C207, correct

No, you dont need the old ECM for the pump to work, just hook the dk grn/wht wire from the relay to and IGN source

Yes, the large pink from the C100, generally the carb distributors either have a set screw to accept the wire or a common connector available at any parts store

Cerridius

Thanks for all you're help so far Pocket,

The large pink wire on my C100 goes into this connector, and im guessing that I have to get it into this plug on the distributer.

So do i have to cut the pink wire off that white connector and get something to fit into that distributer?

Sorry if I seem kind of dumb. I'm only 18 and this is my first time ever messing with wires like this.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Pink is main IGN for the dist, white is tach, both go to the dist

Cut the severely broken connector off and crimp the proper ends on for the new dist

Cerridius

Awesome! I'll go do it now. Maybe I can get the engine to turn over.

Then I'll have to solve the fuel issue.

Cerridius

Ok no go... I must have the starter wrong.. The purple wire is fine. Then there is three big red wires that go down to the starter. Do they connect to there own post? And then the battery cable connects to its own post aswell?

So I have 3 connections on that 1 post. They are marked green. The battery and 3 red wires. The purple wire is good. Is this right or am I missing a wire?

Cerridius

The starter has 3 posts on it. Does the battery cable use it's own post. Then the red wires go on another?

85z28kid

iTrader: (7)

Test the purple wire with a light tester and see if there is power going to it when you turn the key to the start position . ALao the red wires should be on the same post so that they get power off of the battery wire.

Cerridius

Ok good news. I got the car to turn over. So that means I got the starter working correctly.

Now for the fuel pump. What wires are for the fuel pump and how do I get my stock electric fuel pump to work when the key is on. I dont even mind having a fancy switch in my ashtray to flip on when I go to start my car.

And what do you guys think would be best for my fans? I have 2 fans with an aluminum fan shroud.

85z28kid

iTrader: (7)

Use relays for everything as they use a lot of power

Cerridius

Anyway you guys can elaborate on the wires for the electric fuel pump? Witch wires do I use and how?

Just pouring gas into the Carb

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZkdO6Pwzwg

Cerridius

Ok So im guessing that I can use these to get my Fuel pump to work. I believe that the brown switch is the OPSU yes? These run up to a connector that I think connects into the firewall right above the C100.

So what I need to do is get the OPSU connected and get a 12V source to that Darkgreen/white stripe wire to get my fuel pump working? Or are these not the wires.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

you can just wire your fuel pump to a switched 12v source. theres downsides to using the OPSU and downsides to using a switched 12v.

Cerridius

Ok I think those last pictures I posted were just for the OPSU.

This is the fuel pump connector right?
So you're saying that I just need to get 12V to that Darkgreen/white wire? like splicing it into the pink ignition cable? Or another wire that gets 12V when the key is on?

Also that thick black wire with the red stripe... that for the fans?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The oil pressure switch is a backup in case the relay fails. The engine will run with it unplugged or deleted. Its not like older cars that have to see oil pressure before starting

The bundle pictured is for the fuel relay, splice the green wire to 12v IGN and it will run

Yes, Blk/red and blk/ppl are fan outputs from the relays. To control them find teh dk grn wire in their relays (gry for second fan) and hook them to grd for continuous run (not recommended) or a thermal switch (simple and effective) and/or manual toggle switch

travis401

iTrader: (1)

that exacy how i have mine wired.

Cerridius

Ok so I think I was messing with the coolant fan relay the whole time....

I think I got it now.

This one is the fuel pump one X_X

The first white wire is for the tach.
The Orange wire goes into the OPSU witch should be plugged in yes?
The Darkgreen/white wire is the one I need to give 12V?
The Tan/White I don't know it goes to the relay but its not connected to anything.
The Black/White wire I need to ground?

Now on the OPSU switch it has a orange wire coming out and a tan/white one to, but the tan/white one is not connected to anything, I'm thinking that the tan/white wire coming out of relay is suppose to be connected to it.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

the orange wire does go the the opsu, the dark green/white is the trigger wire for the relay. the white/tan wire runs to the fuel pump IIRC. the same wire comes out of the opsu and runs to the same spot for the fuel pump.

Cerridius

Quick question. On my OPSU there are 2 wires, the orange one is fine, but there is a tan/white wire on the OPSU is cut, is it suppose to be connected to the tan/white wire coming out of the fuel pump relay? They are the same color. I'm thinking my granpa may have cut them.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

the way it was stock, the tan/white wire ran from the relay to the opsu to the driverside bulkhead connector then back to the fuel pump. you need to connect one, the other, or both to the pump.

if you connect just the opsu, it will run the fuel pump when you crank the engine over enough to get some oil pressure. if you just attach the one from the relay, it will turn on the pump when you turn the key (as long as you have 12v to the green trigger wire). if you wire them both, the opsu will keep the fuel pump running if the fuel relay fails (like stock)

Cerridius

Well I connected the tan/white wire on the OPSU to the tan/white wire that goes into the relay... I plugged the OPSU above the oil filter, touched the green/white to a 12V wire, tapped the black/white wire to a ground.. and I could hear a clicking going on in the relay everytime i tapped the ground, but I did not hear the fuel pump turn on... I'm guessing that the 3rd tan/white wire that I did not connect to anything might have something to do with it... but IDK where it goes. Meh I give up for now.

Thanks for the help so far Travis and Pocket.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

the 2 tan white wires you have connected to each other connect to the 3rd tan white wire that goes into the connector on the driverside firewall. thats the wire that actually runs to the pump to power it. the clicking you hear is the relay working. were you grounding it with the key on or off?

Cerridius

I think I may have finally got it... I found a tan/whiet wires cut in the C100, connected one of the other tan/white wires. Connected the wire to the battery with the fuse. Im not sure if i heard the pump turn on or not... I coudn't hear gonna have to have someone else turn key while I listen. BUT I could see my fuel PSI gauge on my carb move up =D good sign yes? Also when I first did it i heard a noise, what sounded like bubbles from behind me. Must of been fuel being pumped ya?

travis401

iTrader: (1)

If you put 12v to that tan/white wire at the c100 itll power the pump. you can either use the relay, or the opsu, or both to get power to that wire.

Cerridius

Got it to work =] Ran it for like 30 seconds at a high RPM for the camshaft.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

IF its a new cam, then you need to break it in before trying to fine tune anything.

Cerridius

Ya, were going to do that for sure once I get the fans hooked up.

Cerridius

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObBROwM0z1M

I wonder how long I can run it without fans... Maybe 2 10min periods? That way I can finally break in the cam.

NINÅ

Cerridius

Ok, so I guess we didnt wire the fans right because they did not come on while the car was one. So we just wired them directly to the battery to stay on. But It didn't keep the car cool.

Both fans going did not keep the car cool, the temperature just kept rising.

Now, my dad went to go take the radiator cap off and it bascially turned into a geyser, it shot antifreeze all over him X_X

Soooo there was a lot of pressure right, possibly the thermostat stuck?

and are you suppose to keep the radiator cap off when you do this?

Cerridius

Finally got the fans wired right! I think they turn on at 190' but they kept the engine at a solid 190' at idle. Almost done with wires. Just gotta hide em now.

Oh and gotta do the AC and Heater, any suggestions on hooking that back up? Do you use the old wires and put it back into the computer?

here's the cars idle after the break-in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdiXhia0DY0

Marc Brown

Hey , please keep these pictures up as I'm in the wiring stage now and this is sooOOO helping out . I have an 88 TA and I'm converting from TBI to carb, all new to me too. I've always had it already wired to get the job done, and have been working on cars for a long time, but this IS a little different to do. especially getting rid of wires and such. Kind of scary! Jjokin, but not. Anyway. Keep the post coming, lovin it man, awesome work to you and your pops.

Marc

Cerridius

Ok It seems like im not getting a charge to my battery. How does the alternator wiring work? The thick red wire on the back of the alternator runs directly to my battery, the 3 wires, I don't remember where the red one is running. The brown one runs to the driver side wiring harness and the tan one is just... there. Any suggestions?

Also thought about maybe a 1 wire alternator? how does that work?