ElectronicsNeed help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Hey, what is the correct gauge to use when you relocate the battery. I will be hook up some pretty serious stereo to it, but also am hoping to have a pretty serious engine.
I was looking at 1/0, any suggestions?
All you need is anything 4 or lower. But running thicker wire to the engine is only going to cause less resistance to the alternator and starter which don’t help that much. I assume the stereo amps are going to be in the back by the battery so you are going to hook the power straight up to the battery so the wire running up the engine from the battery is not going to be taking the load from your stereo.
__________________ 1989 IROC-Z 350, Blue, T-Tops Engine: 350 ZZ4 Equivalent (ZZ4 Heads, cam, pistons, and rods) / Accel TPI Baseplate / TPIS Large Tube Runners / DIY chip / and a bunch of other odds and ends Drivetrain: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4 Tranny / Vigilante TC, 2600 Stall / LS1 Driveshaft / DANA 44 Rear w\ Moser Axles, 3.23 Gears, Trac-Loc LSD Chassis & Suspension: Spohn Sub-Frame connectors / C4-HD Brakes / Polished 16" IROC Rims Website: My Website, Brake Upgrade How-to, etc ~Luke
Well, I thought about it, and here is kinda the setup I was thinking. 0/1 from the battery for like 5 feet or so, to a distribution block, then 2 or 4 gauge running off to the front of the car, and 8 gauge or maybe 4 running to my amps.
Would that work well enough? Do I need to worry about the current running through the distribution block?
Before you get started do you race this car on the track? NHRA regs require a current shut off switch when you move the battery to the rear of the car. If your not worried about that then what your talking about sounds good. Just remember that the bigger the guage you can run the less resistance, which is good for pretty much everything. You may want to consider putting remote jumper terminals under the hood to allow jump starting and/or charging from either end of the car, and they can also function as a junction for any electrical accessorys you add up front.
__________________ 89 Formula 350 406, Miniram, Nitrous SOLD
86 Cutlass Salon Sleeper 455
77 Corvette 406, Superram (WRECKED, ARRRG)
89 Iroc New Project