gtabadboy

Ok well you guys have not heard from me in a while. I sold my old engine and am ready to buy a new one. Should I get a longblock crate motor, turn key or build from scratch? I want either a 383 stroker, 350 with a blower or a small block 400. What do i need to make my car run 11s without nitrous? Can anyone give me a combo, suggestions or places to buy an engine. I am from Mass and would like to get it local. I plan on putting in 411 gears for my 9 bolt borg warner and a new stall converter for my 700R4 tranny. I have $5000 for the engine alone. PS I want to use my carb, distributor and MSD 6+ with this engine. See sig. Thanks

DTL504

iTrader: (1)

If you really need the engine sooner than later go with the crate. If you want something that is put together by you and you possess the knowledge build you a 400hp 383, go for it. You can buy a crate ZZ4 or 355/350hp from your local dealer with no shipping cost to you.

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Chev...ckV8s/355.html

ATOMonkey

How are you going to put 4.11's in your 9 bolt? I was under the impression that the biggest gear they made was a 3.70. I'm probably wrong though. All I have to say about an engine is GMPP 502/502 That should put you in the 11's plus it will be really cool

gtabadboy

You can get 411s at 9bolt.com. As far as the ZZ4 motor, I highly doubt that will get me in the 11s. I need about 475-550 HP. My old motor was better than the ZZ4.

egmonster

I think the GMPP 502 will have trouble with emissions... you can get one for around 5000 though without too much trouble.

You could always use your current block and get a machine shop to overbore and hone/magnaflux/fix anything else that's wrong with it (unless it's unfixable which I doubt in your case anyway..). Get yourself a complete forged bottom end... you can probably find an eagle kit for around 1500 made from 4340. You can then have the machine shop balance it for your block. I dont know how much the machine work will cost you but probably over 1000. Then take the rest of the money and invest in AFR (www.airflowresearch.com, there's gotta be someone who sells these in your area ) cylinder heads. You're probably going to want 210's at least for the power you crave. Make sure you pair it with a good intake (might want to consider a single plane although i'm sure a good dual will get you to the 11's as well...). Make sure everything is nice a pretty Polish makes everything look better ! I'm so happy I have a 9-bolt and not a 10... I don't think the guy who sold me this car realized just what he was giving up . Also on another note make sure you have a good tranny cooler!

Astro

Where in the RPM range do you plan on making your power? If its in the high RPM range, then follow egmonster's advice and use the AFR 210's, otherwise for low and midrange power, a set of AFR 190 or 195's would be a better choice. Don't give up too much torque in your quest for HP, as torque is what propels you down the track.

gtabadboy

I might be making a deposit tomorrow help.
383 Chevy Long Block
Block: 4 bolt, .030 oversize hone w/ torque plates, zero deck block, align hone, new brass freeze plugs
Eagle 4130 forged steel crank (dynamically balanced),
Eagle 5140 forged steel 6" I beam rods,
JE forged pistons10.5:1 or 11:1,
JE Plasma moly ring set,
Clevite peformance series bearings,
Melling HV oil pump and HD drive,
Comp Cams flat tappit cam & lifters,
Cloyes true roller Timing set,
Factory oil pan 6 quart,
Pioneer performance balancer,
pioneer SFI approved Flywheel,
Dart Pro 1 aluminum heads,
Manley SS 2.05/1.6 valves, three angle valve job,
Comp Cams springs to match,
Comp Cams retainers and lock,
New screw in studs and guide plates,
Comp Cams pushrodsComp Cams roller tip rocker arms 1.6
Good deal or no?? Has lifetime labor warrantee

gtabadboy

I forgot to tell ya $4999

egmonster

sounds like a mean drag engine for a nice price considering the lifetime labour warranty... If it's from a source you trust I'd say go for it. I don't like the Dart heads myself but to each there own.

egmonster

You'll make more torque with the 210's btw. They flow better at .200 lift than the 190's. Get the 210's since you seem serious about power (although the 190's CAN make 500hp without too much hassle). Those Dart Pro's are very high reving if I were you I'd think twice about those heads. The engine you posted has a flat tappet cam too which tells me its built to run way past 6000. Really it's not going to have very nice road manners though compared to the AFR setup... just my 2 cents.