Egg83

I am in the middle of my 2.8 sbc swap , i have pulled out my v6 motor mounts off of the subframe and let me tell you, they are a PITA. Well anyways, when i went to move them forward to the v8 holes it appears as though i dont have holes for the single lower bolt in the subframe. I am reusing the stock v6 rubber mounts (which i was told i could do) and the top two bolt holes line up on the subframe but it seems that there is no provision for the lower hole. Those who have swapped 2.8/3.1 to sbc did any of you encounter this? Do i have to drill a hole for this? Thanks for any help. -Bob

Xceleratemaro

only 3 of the hole line up...there all like that...so just mount 3 up...

hope this helps..and good luck

Egg83

I dont think that you understand my question. There are 3 bolts for the motor mounts. two upper and one lower, the upper two line up with two holes in the subframe. the lower hole isnt even remotely colse to any hole what so ever. So should i only put the upper two bolts in? Thanks. -Bob

88firebird

I think your problem comes from reusing the old V6 motor mounts... if I remember correctly, the V6 and V8 mounts are different... My guess is if you had the proper V8 mounts you'd probably have no alignment problems...

Egg83

Oh ok. now i see. The v8 motor mounts are probably longer than the v6 mounts and extend to the lower mounting hole. Thanks everyone. -Bob

88firebird

1 more thing... you'll definitely wanna price around... motor mount from the dealership are ridiculously expensive (I got the quote of like $200 Canadian each from 2 different dealerships!!!)... but from the UAP website I beleive they're around like $12 US or somethin like that.

(On a side note: How the heck does the dealership justify such high prices parts??? Just a pet peeve of mine)

Egg83

Three letters for you OEM. Thats how they justify it, as far as they are concerned it is the ONLY correct part for the vehicle. Believe me, i work at a ford dealership. -Bob

88firebird

You work at a Ford dealership eh? You must get some looks drivin your 3rd gen! ha ha

Its amazing how those 3 letters "justify" so much more $$$... what a crock... when I got rotors for my car, the OEM ones from GM were around $120... AC Delco (also from the GM dealership) were $60... the only difference is "OEM"... rotors are the same... thats why it always pays to shop around. Mind you, sometimes the dealership works out the cheapest for me - my dad gets a GM discount! My rotors only cost me $38 for example.

br()bert

8 or 10 $ ea at autozone iirc when i did my swap. Egg what part of Philly are you from? We are probably very close to each other.

ljnowell

9.99 apiece at auto zone. worth every penny.

Egg83

Br()bert, im from the NE near Bucks County. Like 15 mins from the boulavard and cottman. Not to change the subject of the thread, but when you did the swap (br()bert) what did you use for fuel line. I have and aeromotive 4port adj. FPR but the inlet fitting is different. How did you make this work? Thanks, Bob

Camaro Project

I'm from Philly too. What's the street racing scene like up in the NE nowadays? S Philly is still a nightmare.

Egg83

The NE is good, has some good hotspots. Many people have 3rd gens there. S. Philly is still a bust wherever you go. -Bob

br()bert

When i bought my afpr (mallory 4309) i asked for barbed fittings to connect the supply,return and carb lines. Then i went to autozone and got rubber fuel line, Its fuel injection rated at 50 psi, more then enough for the small psi the carb sees. I connected all the lines with fuel injection clamps.

Also, im about 20 mins from the blvd and cottman.

Camaro Project

Where are they running at? I know they used to run around Red Lion and 1 other spot, but that was years ago. I'm trying to pick up 1 of 2 3rd gens myself. My friend just got a 91, T-top, V-sh*ts Firebird a couple of months ago.

crazy3rdgen

iTrader: (1)

Since you's are talking about phili i mine as well but in a : ).. i lived right outside of phili . around the upperdarby, primos, springfeild area.. i go up there often..

________________________________________

i thought the crossmember had something to do with the tranny and the subframe was where the motor mounts were.. correct me if im wrong with these terms.. im 16 and still learning : )

Camaro Project

That's what's up. I pop through Upper Darby all of the time. My friend lives in Drexel Hill. I used to live in Manayunk, Overbrook and Havertown.

crazy3rdgen

iTrader: (1)

yeah my friend mike used to live in drexal hill.. hah what a bad place hah

Egg83

Br()bert, how did you plumb the fuel line from the cars hard lines to the FPR? Did you just cut off the threaded fitting and clamp the hose to it? I thought that 48psi would just blow out rubber hose. -Bob

br()bert

Yup. It will never see 48 psi or anything near it. The fuel pressure reg sets the pressure. The most the psi will go to is 5-7. To test it i actually ran the car with the rubber hose sitting on the steal line ,no clamps at all and it was fine. Of course I now have clamps on it.

Egg83

OK, cool so did you cut off the threaded fittings on the hard fuel lines from the car or did you get the male threaded fittings for them? This and and alternator problem are alll that is holding me back on the swap. Thanks -Bob

br()bert

I cut them off. What alt problem are you having? I had a problem with the alt bracket when i did my swap.

Egg83

I put a post in the electronics section about it but no one is seeming to answer me (yet). I got a 92 305 tbi motor and trans to use for parts for the swap. So i got the serp setup with it. The alt that was in my car had a connector that had 2 "blade" style terminals and the serp. style alternator has a four "pin" style connector. I had to order a new connector from GM for the alt, and there are 4 wires, three are like 14 gage and one on the end is like 12 gage. and they are all colored white and not labeled. I searched for like 4 days and found nothing about my specific dilemma. Thanks for all the help Br()bert -Bob

br()bert

My alt has a plug also but as far as i know its for the ecm. As long as your alt has the large wire that goes to the starter(or batt ) Connected it should be fine iirc.

Egg83

Some of the wires go to the internal voltage regulator. But im not sure which ones. I read a post containing info about just hooking up the large wire, but they said that it will only slowly charge it because the alternator would be in a default or almost a "limp home" mode. Anyways i have to figure out that then ill be running! Thanks -Bob