Spyder

Okay I have a 92 camaro RS 5.0 TBI. I just got a LT-1. Anyone done the swap and how hard is it? Also I have a manual tranny so I assume that I have to get a differnt fly wheel, do you have the P/N? Also is all these poost that I read about the PS lines really that bad? Thanks, sorry I know its a broad question but I figure I should ask the question before so I don't have to wait for parts all the time.

TonyC

iTrader: (1)

I believe mat89rs and TexasLT1 are the guys to talk to about this one, do a search on their names.

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-Don't buy any wooden nickels

mat89RS

Well first you got your fuel pump, you need to change it to a TPI fuel pump, for doing that you need to remove the rear-end or drop it, nextthing would be to use a sledge hammer and notch your motor cross member so the engine fit with the AC compressor. you will need to modify your passenger side motor mount and do some welding. Since you got a manual tranny I doubt very much it will hold 300 hp so get a better clutch and make sure it's in very good shape before riding your torque monster (LT1). next thing would be electronic, you need your VATS (passkey) module or else you are f*cked.You will need to custom fab your wiring harness using the old one and the new one and play around with the damn starter enable relay . PS lines and fuel lines needs to be custom fab. you need a reverse flow radiator or you may use the old one but these motor get hot very quick. you also need to fabricate your air intake. since you are doing a swap I would recommend doing some maintenace as well, change your u-joints, fuel tank straps, grease everything ...change oils... you need also to change the trottle cable.

links for you:
www.350.streetracing.org
www.angelfire.com/tx/brune/swap.html
www.hpsalvage.com

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LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

EATS MUSTANGS FOR BREAKFAST

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40

Spyder

If I don't have AC will I need to notch the crossmember? Also for the pass key what is all involved with that? Thanks guys!

mat89RS

Well if you don't have Ac it means tou have a pulley assembly witch is perfect, you don't need to notch your cross member, about the vats (passkey II) well it's a security system witch work with your key. if your motor sees the right ressitence value in the pellet in your key it tells the PCM to turn on the starter enable relay, fuel injectors and fuel pump motor feed. if you don't have the module or correct key you'll need to get a non-vats computer chip or you'll need to find a vats module and know it resistence value. if you attempt to start the engine without it it will just not work... the passkey II module (vats)(vehicule anti theft system) has 8 wires witch ares connected differently then a vats module passkey I witch is on your TBI car. the value of the ressistence can range of - /+ 5% of it original value.


good luck !



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LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

EATS MUSTANGS FOR BREAKFAST

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40

Spyder

Sorry to mislead you, I know about VATS but what I don't know is how you switch it, do I need the key from the LT1 or can I use the one from my car currently?

RUNUDWN99T/A

well im new here but i would get the painless wiring and vats module.it is only 414.00 shiped to your door.that is the way im doing the swap on the 92 z28 of my buddys.the part # are 60501 for the wiring and 64024 for vats module.this harness has only three wires to hook up and the vats module to plug in under the dash.if your car has a cable speedo you will need a vss kit part #60116. it cost 62.00.ours will be here on thursday.ill post on how well it dose.the motor gose in in about 2 hours(or for us it did).we have work on the swap for about 12 hours total.and all we need is the harness to be finshed.good luck.

Spyder

What did you guys do about the computer? This motor is from an Impala with a auto (4L60?) and I have a T-56, what should I do about the computer? Do I have to do anything?

mat89RS

Spyder:
well you need the key from the lt1, you can't use your old key it does not have the same resistence value.However you can rig your passkey module by install resistence in serie or parrallel and solder it to the connectors B7 and B8 on the passkey module.

RUNUDWN99T/A:
your painless wiring is exactly the same has a regular wiring harness, you still have to figure out all the same connection has a regular harness the only difference is that it tells you witch wire is what ... I do have all the details on the stock wiring harness.... I did my wiring in about 3 days working about 4 hours a day ...

PAINLESS wiring harness has 3 wires for the vats...you are right ....
your car needs 5 other wires to work properly !

A1 Orn Power feed from ECM BAT fuse #4
A3 DK BLU Fuel enable signal
A4 YEL/BLK Starter enable relay control

you Forgot about that :
A2 Pnk Power feed from ECM IGN fuse #5
A5 GRY "Security" indicator lamp control
B5 BLK/WHT Ground
B7 PPL/WHT Ignition key resistor return
B8 WHT/BLK Ignition key resistor feed

I wanted to order the painless wiring myself but Ii figured out just before placing a call with JEGS that it would be the same damn thing has a regular harness....

I saved ....414$ and my setup look stock.

ALSO BE AWARE THAT PAINLESS WIRING IS NOT AS LONG IN LENGTH THEN A REGULAR HARNESS.

Spyder:
about the cable driven speedo..... this one is easy, just remove the vss module on the transmission and intall the gear and cable from your old transmission, it works like a charm !!! cost: nothing...



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LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

EATS MUSTANGS FOR BREAKFAST

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40

RUNUDWN99T/A

the tech at painless told me that the harness from them would only be for the motor and that i would use the stock one for the car and trans.i ask him to be detailed about it with me.he said wire all of the factory hookups up and the harness from them would hook to the rest.that the stock wireing would do the trans and dash and a/c and so on.i dont know but i will thursday after work.ill tell what happens.the b7&8 are taken out of the loop with the vats module(or he said).a2&g&b5 are powered and grounded from the 3 wites that need to be hooked up(he said).remember i dont know for sure it he is right.this is the first time for me to do this swap.

[This message has been edited by RUNUDWN99T/A (edited September 24, 2001).]

RUNUDWN99T/A

on the powersterring line that people have been wanting to know. the way i did them was used a tube bender and rebent the lt1 line and it works.on the upper and lower hoses got them for a 93 z28 from the dealer and they fit like factory.got the 3 way t from the dealer for the heater hose and used the 92 heater set up(shorting one hose).i cut the fuel lines and pressure cuped the lt1 line to the 92 lines and bent them around the valve cover and they hook up to the flex lines on the car.ill be working on the a/c lines tonight.

[This message has been edited by RUNUDWN99T/A (edited September 25, 2001).]

mat89RS

For the power sterring line you will experience some major problem like me, I did used the line and rebended it. The thing is since the power sterring pump is on the other side of the engine, it's harder for the pump to feed a 2 1/2 feet line. When you'll race your engine and stop reving it your sterring will be harder to steer because there will be less fluid inside that line. I don't know how to solve this issue, I guess we'll have to live with it.


RUNUDWN99T/A the stock 93 harness is only for the motor also. I did use the stock one from my car also. Keep in mind that the technicien from painless is not the one who makes the harness, he's the one who answer the phone and he's also in the business for selling wiring harness.

make a search on this board for painless wiring, you'll see what I mean when i'm saying it's about the same thing a a stock wiring harness

------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

EATS MUSTANGS FOR BREAKFAST

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40

Spyder

Under normal driving coditions do you have problems with the steering? When you are just going through a parking lot is it like having no PS?

mat89RS

Under normal driving it's alright... everything is fine, parking is fine also. It's only when I'm reving the engine to like 5500 rpm in few seconds and then redropping it to 1200 rpm. for like 1-2 seconds i'm not losing power sterring completly but it's almost gone.

TexasLT1

the VATS really isnt that complicated, just go to you GM dealer, and get a new module, change the pins in the connector, and plug the new one in. it automatically programs itself to your key on the first try. if you need any help at all, just e-mail me, Ill be gald to help

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-'92 RS with self-installed '95 LT1
-Heddman Headers
-TPIS throttle body airfoil
-MSD 6-AL Ignition
Kills
-'97 Mustang Cobra
-'98 V6 Camaro
-'89 5.0 ****stang
-'97 Sebring
-'96 ****stang Cobra

Losses
-'99 Mustang GT
-'96 Mustang Cobra
-'95 Z28 (good race)
-'96(?) Turbo Eclipse (d*mn good race, heavily modified)

1sweet89rs

about the power steering lines,it might be pretty easy to make b-body lines fit,they fit great in my s-10 and the camaro has the same box and pretty much the same crossmember so you might want to try that.thats what im gonna be using

mat89RS

LT1 and s-10 have not the same power steering pump ...

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LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

EATS MUSTANGS FOR BREAKFAST

RUNUDWN99T/A

on the powersterring line i dont know why you would have a problem with it.the line is the same in lenght just bent diff.got the painless harness in today.it looks good.it dose have more than three wires to hook up.but they are all plug in.the nice thing is that there is no wire cuting.it just plugs into the 92 factory harness and fuse block or that is what the instructions said.i like that so no chance of a bad connection.ill post more about it after to night when i get it on the car.

[This message has been edited by RUNUDWN99T/A (edited September 26, 2001).]

mat89RS

I don't know how come you are saying that the power steering line in the same as the stock one. the power steering pump is on the other side of the engine .... you have to custom fab the line and it's like 2 feet longer ...

------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

EATS MUSTANGS FOR BREAKFAST

RUNUDWN99T/A

i used the stock lt1 highpressure line and just rebent it to fit the 92.i did not add to or shorten it.

PETE

iTrader: (1)

not that this helps any guys but the vette accesories bolt up same as the 3rd gens.the power sterring is on the correct side,the only thing you need to do if you are keeping your a/c is have special lines madde cause the compressor is on the drivers side as well as the alternator.the water inlet and outlets using the 94 vette hoses are perfecly alligned with the 3rd gens radiator.you will have to move the cruise control of the strut tower(a/c compressor will hit it)and you dont ave to notch the frame for anything.it is a little more costly but less of a headache in the end.

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87 trans am,gm crate 350(4 bolt mains 10to1),L98 aluminum heads,LT4 hot cam,slp runners,slp 1 5/8 headers,3in.y-pipe,edelbrock base,hi flo cat,air foil,afpr,as&m ported plenum,gutted airbox,t-5 tranny w/centerforce clutch and a 3.27 9bolt(11.9in. brakes),ed wright's fastchip,relocated iat sensor,160 fan switch&t-stat,tb bypass,accel supercoil,cap& rotor,slp 3in. catbcak,a/c delete.

SHE IS GONE BUT I KNOW THE GUY WILL GIVE HER A GOOD HOME.

best e/t:
3653lbs./full tank+ driver.
14.10@96.53mph 2.01 60'

mat89RS

RUNUDWN99T/A is was thinking that you had only the line from the 3rd gen. My LT! didn't came with it . my mistake

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LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
300 HP backed with a limited slip, 2.73.
Top speed reached: 150 mph

EATS MUSTANGS FOR BREAKFAST

RUNUDWN99T/A

ok on the swap this is the things we used and did.im not finshed yet.all lt1 hoses (upper,lower,heater and lt1 tbi hoses).lt1 excl.cable and kick down.both 305 mounts.on the passanger side cut a slot in mount and used the stock a/c hold down.bent right frame.lt1 power sterring lines(rebent).painless wiring harness(about 2hour to put on).vats module.stock 700r4 trans(o/d wired to work).factory harness for dash.stock fuel pump.adjustable fuel reg.used high pressuer cupling to cup the stock tbi lines to the lt1s.headmens headers.3000 stall.lt1 radiator and fans(wiring them into the pcm tonight).wiring the the a/c into the pcm (tonight).runing the condewit (tonight).puting the after market tach,temp and the oil gages(tonight).the dash gages will work also.hopefuly tomorrow or in the next day or so crank it up.

Polivick'sRS

how much did your painless wiring cost?

RUNUDWN99T/A

from summit it is 350.95 plus shiping.

mat89RS

what kind of rear-end are you using with a 3000 stall ??? I know your car had 2,73 gears, steal drive shaft and 28 splines before. Putting a 3000 stall with an LT1 that has 320 hp will kill it in a day if you're keeping it stock ...

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LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
300 HP backed with a limited slip, 2.73.
Top speed reached: 150 mph

EATS MUSTANGS FOR BREAKFAST

Polivick'sRS

99TA
how much did your whole swap cost and do you have any pics my email is bppolivick@home.com

RUNUDWN99T/A

for now he will keep the stock rear with a torsen pos and 3.73.ill be puting them in later this weak.also a t/a cover.i did not take pic as i did it.ill go back and take some to post.if you get the painless wiring harness it will be a easy swap.it has only has 9 wires to wire in.the wires are for the coil,tach.power feed(2),speedo out put,neutral safety,tcc lock up and the vats.on the vats find the vast out put and wire it in and no module or chip is needed.on the 92 rs the out is pin b6 and put it to a19(vats in put on a 93).this will give the vats signal to the lt1 pcm and it will run.the wiring that is extra is if you want a/c and the pcm to control the fans.if so it is only 3 wire that need to be add.any more question on my swap ask and ill tell.by the way this thing runs like a charm.i wired every thing like as if it came factory. all factory swicthes and realy(for fan a/c fuel pump and etc.)run this swap.

RUNUDWN99T/A

polivickrs i got the motor and pcm for the car through the shop i work at for 900.00.the wiring harness was 350.95 plus 7.00 to ship it to me.the lower lt1 hose was 18.00 from the dealer.upper hose(lt1)was 10.22 from dealer.kick and exc. cable where 11.00 and 19.00(dealer).belt (w/o air pump 64.2 in)15.00.5/8 and 3/4 heater hose from shop 0.00.radaitor was 154.00(dealer).daul fans and cage(dealer)150.00.power sterring line just re bent old lt1 0.00.a/c lines rebent old 92 rs lines 0.00.fabed old 305 mouts 0.00.used old 700r4 trans 0.00.stall was 385.00.trans fuild from shop 0.00. oil and fliter from shop 0.00.chip 299.00.antfrezze(shop) 0.00.elct. tap (shop) 0.00.wire contectors (shop) 0.00.labor (me)0.00(but my buddy owes me lol).torsen pos 100.00(dealer).3.73 gears 119.00(dealer).t/a cover (summit)150.00.this is all i can think of now ill post more if i think of it.but i think this is every thing.

RUNUDWN99T/A

for now he will keep the stock rear with a torsen pos and 3.73.ill be puting them in later this weak.also a t/a cover.i did not take pic as i did it.ill go back and take some to post.if you get the painless wiring harness it will be a easy swap.it has only has 9 wires to wire in.the wires are for the coil,tach.power feed(2),speedo out put,neutral safety,tcc lock up and the vats.on the vats find the vast out put and wire it in and no module or chip is needed.on the 92 rs the out is pin b6 and put it to a19(vats in put on a 93).this will give the vats signal to the lt1 pcm and it will run.the wiring that is extra is if you want a/c and the pcm to control the fans.if so it is only 3 wire that need to be add.any more question on my swap ask and ill tell.by the way this thing runs like a charm.i wired every thing like as if it came factory. all factory swicthes and realy(for fan a/c fuel pump and etc.)run this swap.headmen headers (summit)126.00(get them for the 92 modle and not the lt1 they will fit and are not 429.00)he has about 2500.00 to 2600.00 it as we sit.



[This message has been edited by RUNUDWN99T/A (edited October 03, 2001).]

MM89Iroc

99T/A
I am about through with my LT1 swap into my Roc. Anyway, I am getting ready to tackle the ac, PS, and fuel lines. I think from this message alone I have enough good sugestions to get that done with out dropping anymore cash. My Question is with the radiator. I saw in your message that you bought a new radiator and dual fan setup. Did you buy a Lt1 rad and fan setup or is it a regular thirdgen radiator with reversed hoses? I have heard it done both ways and was wondering which route you took? If you used the Lt1 rad, did you have to cut anything to make it fit or did it just drop right in?
Thanks,
MM

RUNUDWN99T/A

i bought the lt1 rad and fans.the stock one would work.the stock hoses for the lt1 would go on with no mods to them.the reason for the new rad for this swap was the old one was in bad shape.the only thing needed to be done to the lt1 rad is cut off the a/c condencer tabs on the back and move the passanger rubber mount. marcus

MM89Iroc

Thanks 99T/A
I too have a leaky rad so I am in need in another and was wonder if it was difficult to put in the LT1 or not....If thats all it is to it, I guess I'll be going LT1.
Thanks again,
MM

LT1tech

check out this new LT1 conversion web site. www.geocities.com/lt1tech

Great info on LT1 swap's. I also really reccomend getting your PCM recalibrated if you have a difference in tire or gear ratio's than the origional LT1 donor car. Also, keep in mind that you will need to retain all emissions equiptment if you do not recalibrate the PCM.

UnderDogRS

i can program 94 and 95 pcm's.
tires,gears,rev limit,speed limit
fan(s),

just email me w/ tire size,gears,auto or manual.

$50+shipping both ways for tire & gear changes

thanks,
RS
zander0710@cfl.rr.com

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<A HREF="http://ca.geocities.com/zander0710/" TARGET=_blank>
1992 Camaro RS</A>
****In The Work****
94' Z28 Drivetrain(LT1,4L60E,PCM,3.42 posi w/ disk), Walbro 255P fuel pump
!A/C,!cat, !A.I.R, Full Hooker exhaust,Custom program(Rev.b based)

MM89Iroc

How do you hook a kickdown cable up to the throttle body on the LT1 with a 700R4 tranny?
MM

RUNUDWN99T/A

i used a kick down of a 93 z28.new from the dealer they are 28.00.

MM89Iroc

99T/A:
Check your email....asked you a Q...

Also, I don't know a lot about doing motor swaps, so a friend of mine is kinda doing most all of it. He has never put a LT1 in a 3rd Gen before, and He was telling me that there is no "bracket" for the kick down cable to hook up to on the throttle body of the LT1. I told him I would ask you guys on here about it. Do you know what he is talking about the "bracket" ?
Do you buy the 93Z cable and just hook it up or does it require making a "bracket" for it to attach to the throttle body?
Thanks,
MM
Just curious: Did the 93Z have the 700R4 or was it the new electronic 4L60E tranny?

Markolc

The 93Z came with the 700-r4, and that also means you need the bracket for the kickdown cable to attach to. GM made the bracket in the '92-'93 vettes and the '93 Z28/TA with automatics only. GM Part #10226089

MM89Iroc

Thanks Markolc...
Thats what I needed to know..
MM

RUNUDWN99T/A

marklo is right the 93z came with a 700r4.the stock ex and k/d cable bracket has places for both.just need the k/d cable from a 93z.it fit in the trans and the stock bracket.

sirstude

I know this is an F-body site, but wondering if anyone has done the LT1 to replace a TBI in a pickup and has any suggestions if it is any different (wire,computer wise) than the F-bodies?

Thanks
Doug