88Trans-am

does anyone know of a quick inexpensive way to degree a cam? they guy helping me with my engine build says it's not that big of a DEAL, BUT I'VE JUST SPENT $3000 and I would really hate for detonation or something bad to occur. and info would be great
thanks

fast82z

iTrader: (1)

As far as destroying things, you gotta be way off to do that. To make sure the cam is where it should be, you can get a kit from summit. I got a trick flow one that's pretty nice and comes in a good case with directions how to use it.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

Very easy to set the timing the old fashioned way.

Dont you have to have an adjustable timing set to fully degree in a cam anyways?

88Trans-am

i don't know lol i'm new at this and dont quite fully understand all the functions yet. i've lined up the dots on the crank and cam gear. from what i was told thats all you need to do. i'm using my stock distributor from my 305 in my 350. and from what i've read on this site "always degree a cam"\i want to be able to drive my car this year and things keep coming up that i have to buy. i have no more cash left, pay check to paycheck from now on, so the cheaper i can do this the better.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

I have always just taken a straight edge, lined it up with the center line of the cam and crank, and made sure the dots were lined up with the straight edge. I always install my cams straight up. Most today are designed to do that in 95% of their applications.

Im not sure about the need for an adjustable timing set. All I know is that with a regular set, its not hard to tell if its inline or not. One tooth off shows quite a difference. Im just assuming you do to be able to accurately degree in it. Im sure somebody will chime in and answer that before long.

But seriously, if the dots line up. you wont have any problems.

88Trans-am

the timing set is a cloyes, non double roller.

88Trans-am

thanks for the heads up, I wont worry about it too much then. considering the size of my cam, lift and what not, should i put some puddy on the piston to check the valve to clearance ? i do have the beefed up springs to accomodate the lift? would anyone recommend it?

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

it never hurts. All its going to cost you is some time. Just drop the head on with a little puddy, put a few bolts in and set up both push rods and rockers. then turn the crank by hand really easy.

have your heads been machined for the extra lift?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Hear it in a lot more places than just this site.

I asked a fellow (very successful) racer and full-time (very busy) engine builder about this. His response: "I've never degreed a cam in my life."

I don't think I'd worry about it in a $3k engine. I know that's not pocket change, but you're not talking about an engine that was built on the hairy edge in every way, either. Detonation is more of a matter of hot spots in the combustion chamber (polishing takes care of that), improper matching of cam and compression ratio (you aren't running 13:1 CR and an RV cam, are you?), lean air/fuel mixture, or improper ignition timing.

On the other hand, I have a former co-worker who bought a mostly-restored '68 Vette 427 4-speed last year, the first week he had it home it ate a valve. The intake valves had all kissed the pistons - he thought it was valve noise - solid lifter cam - until the #1 cylinder valve head decided it had had enough.

He had asked me to look at the engine to try to figure out what went wrong - he hadn't removed the timing set yet, I asked him to turn the engine over to line up the dots and this is how it looked.



Turns out whoever put the engine together had the timing chain one tooth off, in the advanced direction. Busted up the head pretty bad, banged up the piston crown and dinged the cylinder wall.



It wasn't numbers-matching, and he's been able to get it all cleaned up. But, such a simple thing to make sure the dots are lined up.

Of course, degreeing in the cam would have caught this, but it wasn't required, either.

88Trans-am

no, i've just put in bigger springs with retainers and super locks. i was told that it would be fine.

88Trans-am

see, i've seen a valve let go before from people not properly assembling their cam gears, that was just my main concern, I dont want to cut corners as what i'm learning from this guy I have to use this knowledge later down the road for my next project.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

you should be fine. You can see in the pics that five7kid posted what it looks like when you are 1 tooth off. Make sure they are lined up along the center line of the cam and crank and you will be fine.

88Trans-am

great, thanks guys for the info, i started a thread a few days ago on the progress of my build. i'm gonna hopefully have the engine fully assembled this weekend and i'll post some pics.
thanks again

Andrew91GT

It won't hurt to degree it. You can do it for cheap with a piston stop, timing tape for your balancer, and a dial indicator.

You need to check piston to valve clearance too!

SeanW

MEH...anyone stupid enough to install a timing set a tooth out is probably not exactly qualified to "degree" a cam anyone.

Degreeing a cam is simply verifying that the cam is ground properly by checking that the valve events are happening when they are supposed to be. I have installed cams with and without a degree wheel and every time i used the wheel it was all good anyway so had no effect on the actually cam timing. I have read that back about 10 years ago comp had a bad run of cams and they could be out as much as 8º. I have never come across this personally. I have installed cams on non stock valve timing and if you are going to be doing that you should be checking it. But what is even more important is checking your piston to valve clearance.

And Andrew91GT is right you dont need a wheel. In fact you don't need a stop either. Just a dial indicator and timing tape. If you want to math it out you can even make your own timing tape.