LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Well guys after speaking with all of you on picking out my 500hp goal 383 the time has come to assemble it. All parts have arrived, minus a Y pipe which am still debating on what to use. Am going to update this thread with alot of pictures as i start working on it tomarrow. While doing this i have wishfull thinking that i can get the motor pulled, new one assembled, drop new one in, and put the rear in by sunday night. (not gonna happen lol )
Just a quick run down of what i got.
- 96' sbc 350 .030 over, decked, honed, poly motor mounts
-Eagle 383 forged bottom end, Cast crank, flat top +5cc 11:1 compression
-Complete ARP engine bolts from pan to intake
-Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake
-AFR #1040, AFR black coated valve covers, upgraded springs
-Comp Cam ultra pro magnum rocker arms 1.52
-Mike jones custom grind cam 234/236dur .579 lift
-Manley double roller timing chain
-MSD Distributor Kit
-Melling oil pump
-Mallory fuel pressure regulator
-1 inch carb spacer
-Quick Fuel 750, mechanical secondaries Q series
-6.325" ATI super damper harmonic balancer
-Dyno Dons headers, electric cutout, full 3inch exhaust
-Built 700r4, non lockup 3k stall, B@m megashifter
-Hawks Third gen carpet
-4th gen manual center console
-3rd gen leather seats
- full autometer guages

I will be starting this on 10-08, and will get pictures up at night or saturday morning. I need to still take the motor out of the "chicken mobile", when you see pictures you will know why i call my car that lol. Am going to drive it as is until i get to the body and paint in the spring.

I want to thank Orr, Atilla, Fivekid, and everybody else for all the help making this possible.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Well unfortunatly i barely got anything done this weekend

Today the motor will come out, just have to take the torque arm off and its ready. After that gets pulled i will start assembling today. Figures my cousin scrapped the serpentine system on me from the donor, so i got to search for new ones. Ill post pics up later on today of the progress.

Quick question, i have had the shortblock assembled for 2 or 3 months now, i finally got a chance to pull the cover off it and look at it. Is it normal that the connecting rods have alittle play side to side where they bolt onto the crank?

Also am in the mist of redoing the interior. The carpet got me so aggrovated am about to not install it. I am left with alot of extra carpet over the trans tunnel. Its been out in the sun for a few days, and i tried to use a heat gun. Am at the point where am going to bolt a seat in the damn thing and its done lol If anyone was wondering i bought the carpet from hawks, i would have to say its not the best fitting application, from my experience

1986Z28OWNER

iTrader: (1)

Yes the rod should have some play side to side, typical side clearances we run is 0.015" - 0.020" you can check this with a set of feeler blades.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

valvecover.jpg?t=1286795587
piston.jpg?t=1286795618 intake.jpg?t=1286795650
afrhead.jpg?t=1286795680
passside.jpg?t=1286795751 interior1.jpg?t=1286795777
crank1.jpg?t=1286795799
crank.jpg?t=1286795840

Some pictures i had taken during this weekend. I got 1 thing accomplished out of 3, guess thats not bad lol I didnt get around to assembling the motor, that will be started this week. I will be going back to my car (230 miles away) in 2 weeks to drop the motor in and take care of all those wiring in the engine bay.
All in all i was pretty happy about the rust factor of the car. Engine bay looks good, very little rust forming on the trays, and at the bottom of the radiator tray. I only need to replace about 2 ft of the fuel lines in the bay. Take note this will not be a show car or anything close to one. I dont have patience to rip apart everything in the bay to paint it. I will however do alittle body work and paint the body come spring. As you can see the paint scheme is alittle on the sh*tty side. Cant complain for $300 bucks tho.
If anyone was wondering why the bars are in the interior i had used them to hold the rubber down, Am having a very hard time with the rubber and the carpet up by the gas pedal. Am so fustrated with it am thinking about bolting a driver seat in it and be done lol I had to do very little grinding and painting on the floor board to catch the rust that started to form, iv'e seen alot worse so i was again pleased

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

enginebay.jpg?t=1286796691 passside.jpg?t=1286796691 v6.jpg?t=1286796691IMAG1391.jpg?t=1286796780interior.jpg?t=1286796847

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys 2 quick questions, am gonna be putting the motor together this weekend, I bought the rtv right stuff for the sealant. Iv'e read some people use very little and some people use none on the head gaskets. i bought these. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FPP-1142/?rtype=10

Second question is anyone know any website that sells the motor mount brackets for our cars, i was hoping to use the mounts from the donor truck, its alittle big though and i need new ones. The bottom hole is 1/2 -3/4 in to long

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Anyone? bueler.....bueler.....bueler....

Apeiron

DO NOT use RTV on the head gasket.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

dont use anything then?

any clue where i can score new motor mount brackets?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

For those MLS gaskets, clean the deck and head surfaces and just lay them on ONLY when you are ready to assemble. Do not use anything else on them.

Right Stuff for the intake manifold gaskets and china walls

Not sure where the actual clam shell mounts would be or do you want the bushings?

PS. what cam you running?

Apeiron

Don't use anything, and especially don't use RTV.

Used is probably your only source. Engine-side mounts are thirdgen-specific, so try junkyards, eBay, the classifieds here...

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

need the clam shell mounts, wanted to use the ones from the truck but there too big.

After being on the phone with comp cams for 45 min before i could talk to someone, i finally got a rep. After picking the cam out i was gonna order it the following day. I called them 6 times, left 5 voicemails and noone got back to me. So forget comp cams.

I went with mike jones custom grind, 234/236 at .550ish lift on both sides. i think it was either a 109 or 110SLA. I didnt recieve a cam card with the cam, and i forgot where i wrote the specs down lol. But it was generally in that area.

Only thing i got left to do is assemble and get the pushrod lengths, get them ordered and she's ready to go in.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

That car is gonna fly. You made the right choice. Call him up and tell him you need the cam card. He should give you one. I got one with my Jones cam.

Apeiron

I didn't see what heads are on it?

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

I hope so Orr, you are one of the guys i been talking to all year to mix match the parts correctly lol

Apeiron:
I have the New AFR #1040 with upgraded springs, ultra pro 1.52 rockers. My goal was 500 fwhp, mid 11's 118ish. Hoping motor will do that and 150 shot will put me around 125ish. only thing that should fail on me is the rear until i upgrade it. Wishfull thinking of course

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I dont see why it shouldnt run. Intake may want a little porting to best match the heads but those intakes have been used on 500hp motors before. If you could spend the money on the intake manifold porting, I'd do it just to be sure its not restricting the heads. But you are pretty far along in the build so running it as is for now will work.

Right gear converter and track conditions, I dont see why it shouldnt be like most 383 builds here, which alot are in the mid 11's range at around 116 or so with others in the 118 range.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

what ya guys feel about this carb? i posted on carb section but not sure if you seen that post

http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/c...-cfm-drag.html

i was going to work on the motor this weekend but figured id save a trip up to the car and wait for my motor mounts and serpentine setup to arrive. Should be shipped out soon. So in 2 weeks i will have more pictures and progress of the build. Am hoping i can get the motor built, set in the car and the trans in. Have to make brackets for the shifter still and work on the interior, but as of now i think the interior is going to have to wait untill spring. Ill just bolt a seat and seatbelt in and go

If i get good feedback on this carb, all thats left is pushrods, and radiator, hopefully ill be able to dyno tune it this year! getting excited

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I dont know much about carbs but I do know Quick Fuel makes a good carb. I think it will work well.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Just ordered it, good feedback in carb section, hope it works well, quite pricey.

You might not see me on in a few days, after the wife looks at the account i might be grounded

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Looking bad a**. 750 mechanical secondaries, Q series quick fuel. Next week i will be ordering the 3 row aluminum radiator from ebay, going to be using the one everyone used from the sticky thread in cooling section.

irocz436

wow that looks like a sweet firebird ur building,im in the process of swapping a 436 chevy into my 88 irocz,it makes 600 hp on the dyno,thats car should fly with that 383,but what u gonna use for an exhaust thats my hang up duals are so difficult in our cars,will a single exhaust be enough.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

i have dyno dons headers, custom Y pipe, at the end of the Y i will have a electric cutout, running into a 3" flowmaster catback. After i get a moser 12 bolt next year then ill switch to the sinister 4" most likely. With the cutout at the Y i should be ok with exhaust flow when i need it. My next motor is going to be a 400+ sbc, but thats not for awhile, wifey wants a baby lol

irocz436

yeah that could cut down on money for your toy,but its all worth it.thx for info on ur exhaust i was thinking of similar set up but with magnaflow cat back but no cat,and have custom 3 inch y pipe made.cant find anyone that makes 3 inch y pipe.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

try dyno dons y pipe 2.5 into 3 inch. If i cant find a shop ill order his. i didnt want a flowmaster but i stumbled across a catback brand new for 200 bucks. couldnt pass the deal up. it was almost 450 froom jegs

irocz436

yeah thats a great deal on that flowmaster catback if i seen one for that price i would buy it too.ok thx i will check on dyno dons y-pipe do you know what the cost is.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

i believe the cost was 250ish. If its anything like his headers should be top notch. I personally was trying to save some money, might not be able to though. Ill find out when i get the motor in the car

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Had another thread opened before i ordered my carb. So i linked that site to this one. Here's specs on the carb

Prim main jet 74---------- pri nozzle 31
sec jet 84-------------- sec nozzle 31
idle air bleed 70 -----------needle and seat 110
high speed bleed 33---------- power valve 4.5

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Update:

Well got some good news today. I've had all my parts just sitting in boxes 230 miles away from me I have yet found time since my last post to make it up there and get this this put together.

So today i decided to call the guy who built the shortblock for me and asked him for a price to put the rest together.
-heads
-intake
-cam
-oil pump + pan
-carb
-harm balancer
-timing chain
-rockers
-lifters
-pushrods

he's going to check the cam to make sure its correct, do all the valve adjustments and all that non sense that i was not very familiar with. I came to conclusion that if am going to build a 500hp motor i mise well have a professional do it. I figured i would have been charged anywhere from 500-800 for this. To my surprise he said between 150-200. Depending how fast adjusting valves and assembling goes, he said he might need to buy a new intake gasket if it doesnt fit. Also measure the pushrods and order them for me. Anyone have any preference on pushrods? I should have pictures of an assembled motor within 2 weeks or even next week.

The_F_body_kid

your rear end and tires are going to hate you and probly have a very short life because of that monster your stuffing into that bird
awsome looking car though its going to run very strong and she will run a good number through the traps most deffinatly
keep us posted on the build send some good burnout pics

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

common dont lie, the car looks like *** with a paint scheme like that lol I hate the rear bumper and really hate the nose. Was thinking 90ish front nose, use the fog light area for a cold air intake. Body is for springs project

mightymaro94

subscribed!

The_F_body_kid

the bottom line is you have some solid power that you will be able to mess around with what scheme of paint where ya thinking oh and what gearing

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Am torn between the gearing at the moment. Right now i have richmond 4:11 gears. Eventually i would like to drive this 230 miles north atleast once a year. Seeing thats the case i might switch to 3:73's when i get the new 12 bolt next year. atleast i can do 60 rather then 55 on the highway lol Mike Jones, the cam guy said i should be fine switching from 4:11 to 3:73, i made sure of that before i ordered the cam

Paint scheme is 2 choices
-Flat black with the 2 stripes on front fenders, mostly red stripes.
- Glossy black 2 tone with orange on top, darker orange. Seen a picture on here that i really like.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Part# HR72360-73360,
L/C 108
B.C. 1.140",
RR 1.52

Duration at .050"
Int: 232
Exh: 236

Lobe Lift
Int .360"
Exh: .360"

Lobe Seperation: 108
Intake Centerline: 106
Exhaust Centerline 110

found stats on the cam Orr, here you go

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Thats about where I thought it would be. He has a few cams like that in 383's I seen posted that put up very strong numbers. That should move well.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Motors being dropped off tonight, Ill get it back next week, My window frame of having this in the car before the end of the year is finally looking promising

cuisinartvette

Youll notice almost no difference from the gear change, leave the gear in that the motor wants to make its power if it needs OD then use that.
id leave it for now, get some miles on it then decide

Gearing it for an "ideal" cruise rpm or better mileage but camming it for power never works. Car should run strong.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

My only problem is this, I dont have OD, i have a 3k non lockup stall. The rear is gonna blow, no doubt about it. Its a rebuilt 28 spline 10 bolt with all upgraded components it can have, but at the end of the day its still a 10 bolt.

Only reason i said 3:73's is because of the non OD. Maybe the wife will let me swap a T56 after the 12 bolt, then i wont have to worry about rpm's on the highway. Am gonna have to see how my trans holds up for now though. Heres the specs, if it blows, then wife has no choice but to let me have a T56 :P

Custom shift kit, Fairbanks "Billet" 2 nd servo, Sonnax "Super Hold" 4th servo, .490" Sonnax pressure regulator boost valve, Alto "Wide" Red Lined 2-4 band, 7 Raybestos "Blue" 3-4 frictions, "Kolene" friction coated 3-4 steels, Sonnax "High RPM" pump slide spring, "The Beast" H/D sun shell, New Borg-Warner 29 element input sprag, Sonnax "full throttle upshift sleeve", 4L65E front support, 4L65E hardened output shaft, and updated steel piston set for the input drum. Recommended for car's hitting sub 1.7 60' times

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

You have a 700r4 with non lockup converter? why?

DAREDEVIL 1

Looking good, but u do know that with a 11:1 u need to use 93 octane or better !!!!!!!!!

Why did u not build it 9.5:1 ???? because of 20-30 HP u are now spending a lot of green on fuel ! Just say'n.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

I bought this trans off a guy who had it built for his camaro. He said the trans was too "wild" for his build so he sold it to me. He spent $1400 and sold it for $900. I couldnt pass up the deal. Thats why theres a non lockup, bought it as is. I didnt want to spend another $300+ for a new converter, i might have too down the road, but we'll see how it goes.


If gas was an issue dont you think i would have built a FI motor rather then a carb? Using AFR Heads am gonna run as much CR as possible on 94 octane, if i wanted a 9:5CR i would have saved money and bought iron heads. Build goal is 500hp (fingers crossed) and i needed as much CR there was to achieve this on a N/A 383 street/strip car. Theres a Sunoco up the road from me that sells 94 octane, i should be fine with 11:1, also i have this obsession with gas, only gas i run in any of my vehicles is 93 octane, dont ask why, but i do. This is not a daily driven car anyways, might see 1 or 2 tanks a month on gas, if that. Another reason i went with Carb rather then FI, gas mileage is no issue

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I would seriously reconsidering spending the money on a good converter with lockup when using the 700r4. Your tranny will appreciate that.

DAREDEVIL 1

and yes..if not a daily driver then ok...i would put some octane boost in it tho at 11:1 !!!!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

With the jones cam, he will be fine at 11 to 1 with AFR heads. I ran the same on 93 no problems with very aggressive timing running lean and never saw a knock count. With the right spark plug and those AFR chambers, they are very effective at burning the mixture. Didnt have a problem on my setup. DCR was around 8.3 to 1 which is good for 93 octane.

With a carb setup, the intake air charge will also be a touch cooler than EFI, so that will also help control the chamber temps and detonation.

DAREDEVIL 1

I'm not saying it can't be done...just saying i like to be safe and everything over 10:1 even with aluminum heads ( no matter which ones ) its pushing it !!!
Cam has nothing to do with burning a hole in a piston !!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Cam has alot to do with it. Cam valve events determine the actual running compression the motor will see. This is dynamic compression ratio and also can be checked by doing cranking compression tests. Generally 180-200 psi cranking compression is max for pump gas. 8-8.3 to 1 is acceptable for dynamic compression ratio with pump gas. Camshaft will determine that.

If you keep the motor cool and timing conservative you can get away with alot of static compression as long as the cam is large enough. LT1 strokers are running 12 to 1 on the street just fine. 10.5-11 to 1 is not alot of compression on a decent cammed street build with aluminum heads. Its actually quite common.

Rich/lean mixture is another issue... you can burn a hole in piston by going too lean on any compression motor.

MotorMouth

I hope you meant that as a joke about the booster. That stuff is modern day snake oil.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

well i exspect to spend almost 600-1k on the dyno for proper tuning, with and without the NOS so the tuning should be top notch hopefully

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Orr your a pain in my **** lol Now you got me all worried to buy a new converter, appreciate it, thanks lol


Seeing i dont want the hassle to remove the trans from the car after installing it, am taking you up on your thoughts. Doing this also will put my mind to rest that when on a highway for short periods of time i wont be spinning the motor at 3k+ doing 65.

What is it you reccommend. Just keep in mind the cam was built around a 3k stall. Would also like to stay around the 250-300 price range if possible

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

3K is fine, more the better tho with that setup but as long as its lockup with the 700r4, it will make life soo much better and extend trans life. Finding one under 500 is abit more difficult.