irocz253

So this is where I stand with my 305 TPI to 350 Vortec swap in my 87

Got the motor seated today, and did a mock up with the carburetor.

I am having a tough time getting the transmission to mate with the engine properly.I have the crossmember and rear transmission mount loosened. The engine is sitting on its mounts but im still about a 1/2" off with the bell housing and the engine.

Any tips?

The engine was built by Paul Anderson and his team at Bowtie Performance in Bonney Lake, Washington.
Engine:
-350 bored .30 or .40 over
-New pistons/rings
-New powder coated metal connecting rods
-New custom grind hydraulic roller cam
-New roller lifters
-Vortec heads
Intake:
-Edelbrock Air Gap RPM intake
-680cfm Quick Fuel Technology Hot Rod series carburetor



I still need the bypass regulator fuel line kit, and the bypass regulator from Quick Fuel Technology for the carburetor swap
http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/b...an-silver.html
http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/b...regulator.html
As well as the TV cable bracket.


Feedback is welcomed, I always need help!

Thank you.

P.S.

I also have these parts installed, listed below

-1800-2000 stall converter
-3.73 gears

irocz253

.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Look in the 1/2" gap and see what is touching, where
Is the bellhousing square to the back of the trans (the gap even all way around )

What are you using to line up the trans bolt holes ?
Is the convertor correctly ( fully ) installed into the trans?
Is the snout of the convertor going into the hole in the crank flange square?

irocz253

The bellhousing is mostly square all the way around. About a 1/4" clearance on one side towards the bottom.

Yes the torque converter is seated all the way, 3 clicks and no clearance to get my fingers behind it.

The snout of the converter is not yet in the hole of the crank flange, its about 1/2'' away

The dowel pins are not seated yet. One of them is catching on the engine block, I attempted to line it up using a prybar but I stopped shortly after due to being out in the garage under the car by myself with the transmission mostly loose didn't feel safe.

I removed the torque arm as well to see if that would help move the trans.

Its loose now and I think I can maneuver the trans into place with an extra hand.

Any tips? I plan on trying to jack the trans and hopefully get it seated with a prybar and a little elbow grease. I need an extra hand

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

For a one man job I cut the heads of 2 bolts about 3" long and put them in the bottom block holes.
Allows you you lift the trans up and have the front supported at any engine angle.
No fear of it dropping on your head while you try and balance it with one hand while trying to get a bolt started with the other

Also means perfect alignment , all you have to do is slide the trans forward until you can get the other bolts started to pull it together.

Then remove the alignment bolts.Cutting a slot in the end of the bolt allows use of a screwdriver should they get tight

87irocZ28Crush

iTrader: (4)

When I did mine by myself I used 2 jacks and a 2x4 to support the tranny from below. I jacked up the tranny and with the motor on the mounts but not tightened I shook the motor till it fell into place. I know, real technical but it worked. The alignment pins kept catching and wouldn't drop into place till I did this.

irocz253

Two jacks? Front and rear of trans? Did you remove your driveline?

I am using a similar principle, it was so close when I stopped today, I didn't want to risk it without another jack stand handy. I had the rear of the car in the air from removing the torque arm.

It will be seated soon! I promise. I will update when I do

87irocZ28Crush

iTrader: (4)

I used one on each side. This made sure the tranny didn't sag to one side. After that it was easy to slide it where it needed to go. To prob 10 min to line everything up. Driveline was all in tacked.

irocz253

Hooker Headers 1-5/8" shorties and 2.5" Y pipe came in today

irocz253

Today I got the 'Total Cure Package' ordered for the 700r4 from Bowler Performance Transmissions online. The package includes the correct length TV cable and the required brackets for my Quick Fuel Technology carburetor. It also includes the Converter Lockup Module to allow the torque converter lockup in 4th gear overdrive.

http://bowlertransmissions.com/p/217...l-cure-package

Pretty damn excited considering this is one of the last pieces I need to get this engine started up and broken in as it is still brand new motor and only primed.

I am excited.

I also got a new oxy-acetylene torch kit and some 3 ton jack stands; to remove my 3" midpipe and then have an exhaust shop weld in this 2.5" exhaust reducer for my 2.5" y pipe.

I will get more pictures soon. Thanks for looking

irocz253

Hey guys, its been a long time since I have updated here. The swap is getting very close to running. Yesterday finished the fuel system (fuel pressure regulator into carb). I also swapped out the TPI in-tank pump for a TBI pump to reduce the fuel pressure at the regulator. I mounted the regulator on the fender wall with the bracket included by Quick Fuel. Keyed power on and filled that carb and fuel bowls up with fuel, the fuel pressure gauge reads 5.5 psi which is perfect.

Also go the Tru-Shift throttle correction system(correct length TV cable for carb, Quick Fuel carb arm, and bracket) and the Lock Up Module(New lockup solenoid, lock up module, and brake switch) from Bowler Transmissions installed.

Got new tall finned aluminum valve covers from Hot Rod Parts Supply (running PCV off one valve cover, K&N Breather on the other valve cover)

New 14" 3" element K&N chrome air filter.

New 3" bolt on show series cowl hood from Harwood came in yesterday! It looks ****ing amazing! It is going to require some cutting for the correct fit though, but I LOVE the look. From inside the car the cowl looks so bad *** lol.The car is close to starting, I will get some sweet GoPro videos when we start it.

We also removed the ECM and all the ECM wiring.

Installed a thermostatic fan control for my electric fans. They are working great. Also rewired my oil pressure, tach, and water temp to my factory gauges. Still need to wire in the VSS for my Speedo.
*ANY TIPS FOR REWIRING THE VSS FOR STOCK SPEEDO?? The car is originally a 87 305 TPI vin F

Also dropped the MSD Street Fire distributor in exactly where we want it and the pickup coil ready to fire off on cylinder #1. Greased up the mechanical advance also.

Anyways I'm going to post some pictures up so check em out guys! THANKS!!!

irocz253

Here are some hood pictures. One of them includes a picture of the cowl vents (LOVE IT)!

irocz253

Here are some pictures on the car of the Harwood 3" bolt on cowl. It has not been fitted yet, we just set it on the car.

irocz253

Here are various other pictures from throughout the build.

irocz253

Motor pics the carb pic is old. Everything is hooked up

irocz253

Fuel pressure regulator location, before all the hoses were ran. Also another cowl pic

305_firebird

What year truck was the 350 Vortec out of originally? I'm thinking about swapping my TBI 305 with one.

irocz253

I didn't build the engine, so I don't know what truck it came out of, but I could look up the casting #'s for you when I see the car on Monday if you'd like.

305_firebird

I'd appreciate it if you wouldn't mine. Also, how many miles are on your 700R4? Did you rebuild it?

irocz253

No I havnt rebuilt the 700r4. The trans has shifted well before the swap, and the torque converter looked new when I pulled the engine, so I'm hoping for a sold trans. I put a new filter, gasket, and torque converter in it though.