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Hooker 2055's and Stage 8 header bolts

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Old 09-03-2002, 12:40 PM
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Hooker 2055's and Stage 8 header bolts

Just got done installing my Hooker Super Comp 2055's last night. These things are great. They fit nicely with no interference and don't even come close to hitting the steering shaft. These are the easiest installing and greatest fitting headers I have ever had on my car (and before people sart asking, yes, I have had Edelbrocks, Hedmans, SLP's, and now Hookers.) The hookers are by far my favorite so far with the SLP's being last in my eyes.

As for the Stage 8 Locking header bolts.........
These are too nice. People will say, "Dang man, why spend $40 on header bolts!" These are the easiest bolts I have ever used. They are stainless steel, have the locking setup, and the best reason in my eyes.......the allen bit head. There was not a single bolt that I couldn't get tight! Most could be reached and tightened with an allen bit socket, the rest with a plain allen wrench. So much easier than a regular open end wrench.

I recommend both of these items to anyone who is currently searching!:lala:
Old 09-03-2002, 01:35 PM
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Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: 5.7 T.P.I.
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Did you get the Stage 8 locking bolts at your local performance shop , or do you have to get them from Jeg's or Summit?
Old 09-03-2002, 01:59 PM
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I ordered them from Summit when I ordered the headers.
Old 09-03-2002, 05:53 PM
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Car: 88 IROC convertible, 88 Sport Convertible---both RED
Engine: 350 TPI in the IROC, 305 TBI in the Sport
Transmission: 700R4 in both
just bought a set of 2055's off ebay...waiting for them to come in....

what problems DID you run into when installing? have to take much off the engine to get out of the way? (have a 350 with TPI)

what did the bolts set you back?
Old 09-04-2002, 07:02 AM
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Mine has no emissions junk, so that made things easier, but they both slid in easily from the top. You should only have to get the stuff out of the way.
Old 09-04-2002, 12:23 PM
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Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T5, 3.23 posi
I agree, they're definitely worth the $40.
Old 09-04-2002, 02:10 PM
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Dragula,
How bout a pic of your ride? Which ROH's did you go with?
Also, why did you dislike SLP? And did you weld the emission tubes on the 2055?
Old 09-04-2002, 03:45 PM
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No current pics due to still on jackstands (hope to drive this weekend), I got the 17x8 ROH Reflex wheels that were on clearance (limited to stock on hand in the warehouse) shipped to my door with new lugs and wheel locks for $460 for the set
Here is the link that has a picture http://www.groupawheels.com/rohspecials.htm
I did cut off and weld up the emissions tubes. I chopped off the 3" portion of the y-pipe and am running the 2 1/2" pipes around the corner into a Flowmaster dual 2 1/2" to single 3 1/2" collector that I expanded out to 4" to fit into the Mufflex exhaust. Should flow really well.
As for the SLP's, they didn't seem to fit well, they were a PITA to install, I didn't like the different length header bolts (they require 3 different lengths of bolts they rubbed the steering shaft, and the y-pipe was only 2 1/4 inch diameter! I called SLP and they stated that the y-pipe on the third gens was supposed to be that small. The y-pipe they make for the stock manifolds is 2 1/2" as well as the 4th gen y-pipe. Kinda sucked for power. For the price of having a y-pipe made to fit the SLP, I could sell them, buy the headers as well as additional tubing (with money left over), and modify the SuperComps which have a 2 1/2" y-pipe to begin with. I just couldn't believe that SLP would charge $400 for the headers, ~$60 for the adaptor, ~$90 for an install kit, and still IMO not be a good set of headers. Others might disagree, but it seems the SuperComps have a lot more going for them, at least in my eyes.
Anyways, selling the SLP's offset the cost of the new SuperComps plus the tubing with some money left over. I invested the money I would have spent having the y-pipe made and bought a welder so I can do it myself, as well as weld in the sub-frame connectors, driveshaft loop, and any other general welding I should need. Besides, shops charge too much money to wled in simple parts.
Old 09-04-2002, 04:23 PM
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Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird, flat black
Engine: Stock 305 LO3
Transmission: Five speed
How much did you take off to get them in from uptop?? I had to remove my starter and install rom the bottom. But yes they are very nice headers. I am very happy with the so far.
Old 09-05-2002, 06:51 AM
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I think you would have to pretty much remove all the emissions hoses and things from that side. It would probably be easier to go underneath...if they fit that way.
Old 09-05-2002, 10:12 AM
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Car: 1986 Iroc
Engine: 454 Demon 850DP
Transmission: TH350, 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Dragula, could you post a pic from underneath the car to see how the 2055's look from the bottom. Thanks.
Old 09-05-2002, 08:13 PM
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Can't get a picture right now since the car is only on jackstands. But here is a pic of the custom modified y-pipe to hook into the 4" mufflex setup. In case y'alll are wondering, I did the work myself, but I still need to fill in the weld gaps (it's just tacked right now) and paint it.
Attached Thumbnails Hooker 2055's and Stage 8 header bolts-ypipe-old.jpg  
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