FabricationCustom fabrication ideas and concepts ranging from body kits, interior work, driveline tech, and much more.
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This will work for ppl who don't have an easy access to stock parts or can't just go to the junkyard and pick whatever they need.
I built my air dam using a flower pot, a knife, a screw driver, a marker and screws. I used a flower pot cause it's cheap, flexible, you can get it anywhere (not all of them are made in america ) and soft enough to work with (cut, drill holes)
I cut one of the longer walls off using a knife.
so I got sth like this
then I cut the remainings of side walls and the bottom
the next step is to mark the places where you have to drill holes so they match with the existing holes under your radiator
when I had the exact locations of the holes I drilled them using the same knife I used for cutting, then I screwed the air dam into the car and that's it
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IMO that may be too flexible and fold over when you are going at any sort of fast clip. Only way to know for sure is test it. I probably would do it only in a bind, I just couldn't trust the durability of that plastic, nor the flexability resistance in the wind.
If it's that hard to find parts, or the proper plastic, you may want to try to just buy some plexiglass or lexan and heat and bend it to conform? It's as easy to find, manageable and stiffer. You could even get creative with some of the plastic sheeting that many companies are starting to sell.
Pecha -- great idea for those of us living in places where Third Gen parts may be hard to obtain. If the plastic proves too flexible at high speeds, the addition of an aluminum frame extending part way down the sides might be useful.
yup the only way to tell would be to test it......if youre not overheating then youre good. besides, with it being as flexible as it is going over anything and scraping wouldnt damage this as much
that's pretty resourceful, always cool to see good ideas like that, I did get a brand new one off of ebay for 20.00 though, and im pretty sure the seller had internaional shipping, so if that doesn't work out...
Yeah that looks good..I may have to do that...I've been running without one for a while...although I don't have overheating issues. Plexiglass is too brittle and would just break. Lexan might work, but its probably more expensive than the pots. As for the plastic being to flexible it might be a good thing.
We've made them for a couple F-Bodies out of aluminum angle for the top mounting rail, and then ridgid semitruck mud flap cut to fit for the bottom portion.
Worked out great, and one has been in use for 4+ years now.
EDIT: Is your car right hand drive? Any pics if it is???
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1987 IROC-Z 305/5 speed
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-305 block .040" (312 cid), Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons, stock rods; shot peened/polished with arp rod bolts
-Hedman shorties and Y pipe
-Hooker 3" Catback minus cat
-Edelbrock Vic Jr converted to MPFI; gasket matched, mild port and polish
-Holley 750cfm throttle body (modified)
-26lb/hr delphi fuel injectors
-Comp Cams Hyd. Roller cam 262hr-12
-Holley Annihilator CD ignition
-Holley LaserShot Pro coil
-Summit 8mm spiral pro wires
-Fluidamper 7" balancer
-Cast aluminum timing cover
-March Billet underdrive pulleys
-7730 ECM conversion and DIY PROM burning using TunerProRT and PPII
-World Products SR Torquer heads, full port and polish, Manley stainless 1.94/1.50 valves, high flow valve job
-GM 3.23 gears
-T5 swap
-Centerforce dual friction clutch
-VDO and autogage instruments in custom acrylic gauge panel
-Minor weight reduction including: A/C removed, smog removed, front sway bar removed, undercoating removed, stereo removed, most carpet padding removed, and wonder bar removed.
-255gph walbro in-tank fuel pump
-edelbrock fuel rails
PARTING OUT, CHECK OUT MY THREADS ON THE CLASSIFIEDS BOARD
Originally posted by Stekman When i read "flower pot," i thought "How's he making one with preformed clay?"
ROLFLMAO :lala: its been a while since this thread has started hopefully he has had time to get it up to high speeds....any updates on how it holds up pecha?
when I was doing over 120mph for few minutes the temperature started going up it's good till 100mph continuosly (did it few times)
I tried to avoid brackets or supports cause the dam would break if I hit sth but I guess they are inevitable
what do you guys think about holding it at the right angle with a string or a line (d/k how to explain it) sth that could be attached to the dam and in front of it holding it at the right angle, this way if I hit anything the dam doesn't break but the string does
I d/k I'm confused, I guess for now I'll be avoiding high speeds
Why not just look on Ebay or ask Hawks for instance how much the original one would cost to be shipped to you. Can't see you spending much more then $50? If you are going that fast that often then you certainly NEED it...
) and soft enough to work with (cut, drill holes)
it's good till 100mph continuosly (did it few times)
