Cat Removal on TPI
#1
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Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Auto
Cat Removal on TPI
Just wondering if anyone has run into problems removing cat on a TPI, and what to do with the hose from the smog pump and the sensor.
#2
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i have passed emissions w/o them, and my car runs fine.
the most common way to get rid of the cat(s) is to replace it/them with straight pipe.
getting rid of the a.i.r pump/hoses/diverter box/and getting headers w/o air really clean up the engine bay also.
i also deleted the a.i.r pump and hoses.
run some searches on here and see what u can come up with.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/search.php
make sure where u take emissions that they dont do visual checks on ur engine bay.
welcome to Thirdgen!
the most common way to get rid of the cat(s) is to replace it/them with straight pipe.
getting rid of the a.i.r pump/hoses/diverter box/and getting headers w/o air really clean up the engine bay also.
i also deleted the a.i.r pump and hoses.
run some searches on here and see what u can come up with.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/search.php
make sure where u take emissions that they dont do visual checks on ur engine bay.
welcome to Thirdgen!
#4
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Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Auto
Thanks for the info, I can't believe how much I learned about my car today reading on the message boards. This site is awesome. Thanks again for your help.
#5
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Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Ive always been iffy about removing my cats, ive had people tell me it can actually be a hp loss and can result in low backpressure which can lead to other problems and trouble codes my local speed shop said they put a firebird on theyre dyno the owner took the cats off and brought it in a second time and it resulted in a 9hp loss. Is there any truth to this is it possible to actually lose hp even though your improving flow.
#7
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Car: 86' Camaro Z28???? could be any thing it orginally had a 5. slow now its dressed in RS attire.
Engine: 350 carbed
Transmission: 700 R4
ur friend is smoking crack..there is no way removing the cat takes away horsepower either way u put it. and arent u gonna get a little bit mroe back pressure when u lose the cat since it can breathe easier.
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#8
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Car: '02 Rodeo
Engine: 3.2 V6 DOHC
Transmission: 5spd
Axle/Gears: 4.30 Dana 44 Rear 10 bolt front
well, i have read that w/o the cats or air system, the computer doesn't get proper feedback, from these components, and richens or leans out the air/fuel ratio, causing a loss of power.
Loss of back pressure would not cause a power loss, but losing too much backpressure, and having too large an exhaust will cost you torque in some cases
For example, 1 3/4 headers, no cat and 3'' exhaust would probably not be the best choice on a stock 305
IMO, if you have emissions, get a high flow cat, and get computer tuning if you are going to rid your air sys.
Loss of back pressure would not cause a power loss, but losing too much backpressure, and having too large an exhaust will cost you torque in some cases
For example, 1 3/4 headers, no cat and 3'' exhaust would probably not be the best choice on a stock 305
IMO, if you have emissions, get a high flow cat, and get computer tuning if you are going to rid your air sys.
#10
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Car: 83 bird
Engine: 305/383
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
No cat here for 5 years. Always passed Mass smog tests. Never ran rich or lean. Never had a problem with back pressure (people remove them just to lessen back pressure, why else would you...?)
#11
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Car: 86 IROC / 84 TurboZ
Engine: 5.0 TPI / 2.2 turbo
Transmission: T5 / A413
Are these dyno smog checks?
Here's my smog experience.
Until 2001, I lived in a rural area in MO, so the inspection was visual only, no sniffer. Over a period of a couple of days, my car started losing power, and eventually wouldn't go over 45 mph. Started fine, idled fine, no codes, just a really choked sounding engine. A "free flowing stock cat" fixed the problem. .
In 2001 I landed a job in Dallas TX, so I packed up and moved. Eventually I decided I wanted my car to be 100% TX legal. I knew the "condition" of my cat, but decided to push my luck anyway. The smog check at the time was a test that included idling and a simulated cruise test (the rpms were upped, thats all, no load.) I failed miserably. I had a new cat installed, and passed the follow up test with flying colors (only emitted like 25% of the allowable limits across the board.)
Sometime in 2003 (I think) the whole metro Dallas/Fort Worth area stepped up to the dyno style tests (I must say that if these types of tests help, I'm all for it, as the air pollution here is BAD -- red ozone alerts for consecutive weeks.) My first dyno smog check went horribly. I failed across the board.
Back to the drawing board. I completed a full ignition tune up, oil change, and found a small crack in the vacuum hose to the EGR valve. I also filled up my tank with premium after adding a bottle of RXP fuel kicker (I figured it cant hurt.) The follow up test went smoothly and I passed. I was amazed that my the 15 year old IROC was only puffin out like 1/6 of the allowables, and was low on NOx as well.
Always fully warmed up before testing.
Was the answer to my problem the cat (obviously it was early on), the vacuum/EGR issue, the tune/oil, or maybe just that little red bottle of additive?
IMO, on a relatively stock engine, the cat causes a mere loss in hp for quite an improvement in emissions. I would not remove it unless you are putting a new one in its place. Performance gains vs. Air Quality/Legality is a no brainer for me. Its nice to jump out of my car, hand over the keys, and walk away from inspections and not sweat it.
FYI-
86 IROC
LB9 TPI
summit "TPI" cam 204/214 @ 0.050 .420/.442
3.42 auto
GM performance fast chip
ram air
screens removed on MAF
Last had it on the track in 1996 -- 9.5's in 1/8th(stock) before the cam/chip/engine rebuild/intake mods
Until 2001, I lived in a rural area in MO, so the inspection was visual only, no sniffer. Over a period of a couple of days, my car started losing power, and eventually wouldn't go over 45 mph. Started fine, idled fine, no codes, just a really choked sounding engine. A "free flowing stock cat" fixed the problem. .
In 2001 I landed a job in Dallas TX, so I packed up and moved. Eventually I decided I wanted my car to be 100% TX legal. I knew the "condition" of my cat, but decided to push my luck anyway. The smog check at the time was a test that included idling and a simulated cruise test (the rpms were upped, thats all, no load.) I failed miserably. I had a new cat installed, and passed the follow up test with flying colors (only emitted like 25% of the allowable limits across the board.)
Sometime in 2003 (I think) the whole metro Dallas/Fort Worth area stepped up to the dyno style tests (I must say that if these types of tests help, I'm all for it, as the air pollution here is BAD -- red ozone alerts for consecutive weeks.) My first dyno smog check went horribly. I failed across the board.
Back to the drawing board. I completed a full ignition tune up, oil change, and found a small crack in the vacuum hose to the EGR valve. I also filled up my tank with premium after adding a bottle of RXP fuel kicker (I figured it cant hurt.) The follow up test went smoothly and I passed. I was amazed that my the 15 year old IROC was only puffin out like 1/6 of the allowables, and was low on NOx as well.
Always fully warmed up before testing.
Was the answer to my problem the cat (obviously it was early on), the vacuum/EGR issue, the tune/oil, or maybe just that little red bottle of additive?
IMO, on a relatively stock engine, the cat causes a mere loss in hp for quite an improvement in emissions. I would not remove it unless you are putting a new one in its place. Performance gains vs. Air Quality/Legality is a no brainer for me. Its nice to jump out of my car, hand over the keys, and walk away from inspections and not sweat it.
FYI-
86 IROC
LB9 TPI
summit "TPI" cam 204/214 @ 0.050 .420/.442
3.42 auto
GM performance fast chip
ram air
screens removed on MAF
Last had it on the track in 1996 -- 9.5's in 1/8th(stock) before the cam/chip/engine rebuild/intake mods
#12
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Car: 1992 RS Camaro
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Go with high-flow cat and keep the environment clean. A properly tuned engine with a good cat will burn clean and have output almost as high as no cat.
#13
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Car: 91 B4C
Engine: L98
on some GM vehicles removing the CAT causes a check engine light to come on with a EGR code due to the reduced backpressure EGR flow is decreased
just 2 cents from a mech. that has seen this on various GM products (mostly trucks and 4th gen camaro's)
just 2 cents from a mech. that has seen this on various GM products (mostly trucks and 4th gen camaro's)
#14
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Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
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Re: Cat Removal on TPI
I live in CA. where the smog ****'s rule. I flanged my exhaust where the cat resides and had a free flowing cat made:
I kept my smog pump in and cut the air injection tube. When I go to smog, I hook up the cat and the tube with rubber fuel line. BTW, it really makes your exhaust louder!
I kept my smog pump in and cut the air injection tube. When I go to smog, I hook up the cat and the tube with rubber fuel line. BTW, it really makes your exhaust louder!
#15
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Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Re: Cat Removal on TPI
the only cats that should be on or around your car should be under your tires
Tree hugging Hippies suck !!!!!
Tree hugging Hippies suck !!!!!
#16
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Car: 84' Z28-White/T-Tops
Engine: H code LG4 305
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
Re: Cat Removal on TPI
I guess under the tires is better than the cubby where the windsheild washing fluid tank used to be. God what a mess that made after I started the car.
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