Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

I am beginning my restoration on my convertible IROCZ. On another posting I illustrated a movie of the engine (that I am selling) running in the car. Well, I have now pulled the powertrain as well as most of the remainder of the car. My goal is to make this car back to production-level specs. It will not have the carbd 305, but I have a 305 TPI & 700R4 I plan to put in it.

I will continue to populate this thread going forward if anyone is interested...and equally as important is the fact I will need some opinions from all of you. I've watched this forum for some time and very impressed with the technical depth.

So, here's the first question....in the photo below, I show the diff wheelhouse area and I am curious to make a good restoration, do I paint it a similar color, undercoat or what? I prefer to undercoat (easy), but don't want to wreck the value.

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

Any thoughts on if I should apply undercoating to underbody, or leave as is?? Also, does anyone know the color of the metal to repair bad spots on it?

Drew

iTrader: (58)

The bottom of these cars seems to be grey (sealer/primer?) with body color overspray around the edges. Unless you're going for a concourse restoration just about anything you could do would look better. Personally I don't like undercoating because it gives "tooth" for debris to stick to the car, and sometimes looks like someone sprayed it on to hide something.

GTA50

Original or not, my '89 'Firebird was undercoated when I bought it in 2000, with 167,000 km on it. Everytime I took it up in the air (clutch job, etc.), I touched up any scrapes. 450,000 km total and I have no rust issues.

My only other suggestion is to follow my '88 GTA with the oil leak and to spray the whole undercarriage with 10W30!!

navy02ws6

I wouldn't undercoat unless you absolutely have to for potential rust reasons (i.e. daily driver in a northern state). To me, undercoating ruins any and all underside factory finishes.

I would try to find a gray similar to that factory sealer, or clean up (degrease) what's there, and then top it off with a coat of satin clear.

mightymaro94

undercoat doesnt look great but it does serve a great cause

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

Lots of great thoughts....I think I will try spraying grey rust bullet and leaving it as is...maybe a sealer over it as navy02WS6 suggested.....thank you

I'll post a few pictures of the underbody before & after

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

I have finally removed ALL the parts from the body - basically I have a body-in-white (a term auto industry uses for all metal).

I have sanded down any spots from surface rust and have treated them with inhibitor. I am closing in deciding what to do with paint.

I'm thinking an enamel (satin with hardner) for the engine compartment and along the sides of the underbody. I think this will give a factory finish (comments??). Then find a gray enamel that's close to the metal towards the rear and shoot that.

Contemplating an undercoat around the inner wheel wells.

Based on the comments above, sounds like the right thing to do. VERY interested in any expierenced 3rd geners out there that have learned better.

See pictures!

eseibel67

I would clean up those spots and paint it grey. Undercoating makes a mess, and in the long run, it can cause problems. It can peel away from a vertical surface and leave a pocket behind that holds water.

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

I can try to match the gray, but what about the engine compartment. Does anyone know how the factory did it? The exterior is base/clear, but what was the engine compartment done in?

eseibel67

Underhood is painted body colour, but it has a rough texture compared to the exterior.

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

Ok...man, what a job. Scrubbed the entire underbody with purple power, only slightly diluted. Despite thick vinyl gloves and a sweatshirt, it seeped through and put slight burns on my arms....beware.

Painted the original e-coat with a replacement that looks identical called easy coat (made by SEM products) made for OEs. VERY good match. Color was light green (one of four available colors for e-coat). I used a high temp black paint under the hood and chassis black for the cradle, etc. Pictures attached. I think it looks great...and is it clean!

I'm now off putting the car together with the right parts....more to come.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

The bottom looks great, but the engine compartment would look better body color.

Andy Fanshawe

iTrader: (1)

Thats looks superb! Thats a lot of work there.
All respect to you. I've been down this road before and know how painful and tedious it is.
Keep us informed of your progress.
This I am looking forward to.

Andy.

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

I need to better understand your point on body color....its not too late if I missed something, the compartment is a high temp black that has nearly the exact sheen as a base black....the exterior is black...or do you mean I should use real body black (base coat) instead of high temp black?

Pls advise.

talover111

Sandslot i think it looks great so far nice job

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

I was going to say to do the oengine compartment body color as well, but you said the outside is black, so you have that covered! I am a fan of black underneath the car as well.

Personally I would do a 2 stage gloss under the hood, but good work! I've been there, done that!

Drew

iTrader: (58)

LOL I just assumed for some reason the exterior was a different color then black. If the exterior color is black it'll look fine. What looks wrong is when a third gen is a bright exterior color, with a black engine bay. It always ends up looking off since these cars were painted body color under the hood.

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

Could not agree more.....I painted the exterior last year when I had access to a booth...a little backwards, but its working so far.

Pulling down the donor IROC tomorrow to get the powertrain & wiring.

Really appreciate all the feedback - I am making changes with the suggestions - and of course it looks better for it!

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

I meant to mention to all the vert fans/owners, when I removed my diff, I found that I could NOT remove the body-side trailing arm bolts from the installed location - yes, I could not remove them and therefore could not remove the trailing arm. Problem if you wanted to install new bushings and clean it up. Seems when the plant installed the frame reinforcement (behind the ground effects) for the vert, seems the engineers forgot that someone may want to remove the bolt. To remove the bolt, I had to cut a hole the diameter of the head of the bolt. There was simply no other way. Is my car the only one like this?

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

Update...the rear part of the car is together, with the e-brake cables and fuel lines left to do....

puma1552

iTrader: (1)

Show us some pics of the whole car. Looks great, would love to see more.

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

I have completed the motor. It's a 305 LB9 with 0.020" over pistons and a slightly wild cam (enough to run production cal). I also had exhaust seals to replace the umbrella seals. It has all new parts except con rods and crank. Each part in/on the engine was cleaned, reconditioned and reinstalled. Will be matching up to a freshly overhauled 700R4.

I'll have exterior pictures when I pull the cover off the paint.

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Wish mine came together that fast

Looks like a great project so far, and I too would love to see some overall pics of the entire car!

Andy 91GTA

iTrader: (2)

That's a nice looking motor.

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

I have the engine installed now. I have started the engine and it has run for 30 minutes, did an oil/filter change and now have a few hours on it. Runs great, but has a code 33 which I am working through. The car was assembled enough to run it to the frame shop to have some frame connectors installed. The shop was Showcase in Warren Mi and they did an outstanding job. I used the Spohn black powder coated units. Originally, the car seemed to have some light sag. The doors did not have consistent gaps and closed clunky. They unloaded the body to get the correct gaps, welded in the ties and loaded the body. PERFECT. The doors gaps look great and the car even looks different.

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

Here's a shot of the engine installed after running for about 4 hours. Seems I have the issue wrung out. No leaks (yet). Sounds great. Will send photos of complete package. Now will need to do some vert tweaking now that I have a fairly solid body.

GShipp85Trans

Did you take the body off the frame? looks like you did just wanted to know. looks great btw

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

The body doesn't come off the frame...our cars are subframe cars meaning the body is attached to the frame permanantly.

GShipp85Trans

thanks, i didt know that

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

I finished this project in the Spring of this year. The engine runs great! However, I was plagued with a MAF sensor issue......I could put another MAF from my 25,000mi 87 TTop car onto this car and it ran great....but when I went to replace the MAF from an auto parts store, I found some interesting findings - I found FOUR very different looking sensors from the inside...some had a electronics board, others had flat sensors, but I FINALLY found the original part at AdvanceAuto.....but only after purchasing 4 parts...they all looked the same, but all but the last one set a code 33...Needless to say, it is running great now! The engine is 0.020 over, new inside content with as wild cam as I can get by with a stock ECM. I also added new rear disc brakes and frame ties, which really tightened up the body!

I am now on the hunt for my 1986 TTop car that I sold in 1991. I am planning to sell this convertible in the spring (or sooner). It was a bunch of fun and kept me busy for six months...and now its solid & all new!

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

Just to clarify, I mentioned in an earlier thread I was going to convert to rear disc and 1LE package....I bought the hardware, but never installed the front LE1 hardware...

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

The car looks great - nice job, and attention to detail!

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

Thank you....it was a lot of detail, but it feels good to know every crevice was cleaned and refinished....