Annihilate

iTrader: (1)

Hello!

Since I have the carpet pulled up to the console of my car, I figure I might as well paint and put down some Dynamat like material.

I know Dynamat is "the best" However I am looking for first hand experience with our cars for products that do a good job and wont cause any smell or the like later on.

I've researched a couple, such as Noico and Hushmat, however I have seen reports of it turning to a tar like substance and ruining interiors, or smelling bad in the summer.

Just looking for a good reasonably priced product!

Looking forward to hearing some ideas!

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I used FatMat 80 mil and it melted on the firewall of my Suburban. Never again. I am going to just use Dynamat next time

Annihilate

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, looks like I might as well buy quality and go dynamat. Bite the bullet I suppose.

Would you suggest priming or painting any interior bits prior to applying? I did read it creates a moisture seal, which is nice.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

In the Suburban I put the FatMat on the factory paint on the floor and did 25-40% coverage. In the Firebird I did the same 25-40% coverage, but some of it was over the DP90 primer that I sprayed to cover the DSE SFCs, the rest was over factory paint. Over that I put 1/*" gray closed cell foam and on top of that I put 100% coverage, virgin, 1 lb-sq-ft mass loaded vinyl. I did the ENTIRE firewall and floor to the top of the hump in the back. I ran out of time to do the vinyl in the trunk area, doors and quarter panel area's. I plan on going back one day to do that, if I ever finish all my other never-ending projects. I also have the factory mass backed carpet and the sound levels inside the car from vibration and road noise are VERY low. I meant to do an SPL app on my phone before and after, but I forgot to do the before, so I never did the after.

I have more tips on what I did if you want to hear them. Most people just put the Dynamat 100% and call it a day, but that's justa waste of time, money and added, unnecessary/no benefit, weight.

I learned all of this from sounddeadenershowdown.com They no longer ell products, but they still have the website up, last I checked

Annihilate

iTrader: (1)

I'd love to hear them, I will also dive into that site for info.

I plan on only doing half the car at the moment because I really want to drive the car, and I don't feel like ripping out anything in the front.

The car was originally red was painted (poorly) blue by the PO. I'm gonna stick with blue, and I was planning on coating some of the interior with some blue paint to get a start on total red removal.

If I were to purchase Would I be able to cover from the center console to the back? I plan on taking door panels off and seats out in the summer, so having some left over wouldn't hurt. I understand you don't need to lay down for 100% coverage, however what patterns would be best for the best performance? What size tiles would be ideal for coverage?

scooter

iTrader: (11)

You really only need to have the Dynamat on the flat "unsupported" structures where the panel can/will resonate. The Dynamat converts the mechanical energy into heat, so there is no specific shape or size. You don't need to have product near bends or stampings intended to provide rigidity for a panel. When I did mine I would measure one dimension of a flat area divide that measurement by 2 and do the same for the other and just cut the rough shape out and slap it in the middle. So you'll wind up with lots of little shapes in the middle of flat area's.

I would also recommend one of the Marshalltown maple rollers, it is very beneficial for rolling the product down flat. I started with the cheap POS plastic one that came with the FatMat and it broke in short order because of the design and the pressure while rolling. I was pressing fairly hard.

To calculate what you need just take a rough L x W and divide by 25-50% and buy that much

Jayson_305

Alright, I think I can help you here. Last spring I re-did the sound-proofing in my father's 1979 camaro. He used "Peel and Seal" and he had used in in the past but we were going to do the backseats. I noticed a pretty big difference just by hitting it with hand. It comes in rolls and you cut out how much you want, peel off the backing, and then apply it. We found best to roll it out too (just to make sure it ad-heaves to the contours) but other than that it is solid. No soundproofing will be crazy, but if you are looking for a few day project of tearing down the interior and laying this across everything, this can work. Peel and Seal IS a roofing product but there are other ones that I simply cannot find on amazon to spread the link. I can give you a link to the mfm version that should do the exact same thing: I hope this helps somewhat for future projects!

scooter

iTrader: (11)

That would be vibration dampening, NOT sound proofing

StevenK

iTrader: (1)

I used Kilmat 80mil for dampening, I did 100% coverage in the hatch area and the hump above the rear end, then 30-40% coverage in the passenger area, once box was more than enough

I then follow up with Siless Liner 157 Mil Sound deadener on all the plastic parts. Also behind the door panels.

Lastly I went with the Mass Back carpeting from ACC, so thats like 4-5 layers of sound deadening.

3rdgenzroc

Yep Kilmat, mass backed carpeting, good thick carpeting on top. Nice and push.

3rdgenzroc

Doesn't need to be 100 percent either.

3rdgenzroc

Makes for a good dampening, looks good, smells good, worth it to me.

redneckjoe

I've also used peel & seal with great results. No carpet in my car, but was getting resonance and some heat. It cured both and for a lot less cheaper then the name brands like dynamat, etc.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-I...ashing/1018733

Annihilate

iTrader: (1)

Hmm thanks for all the replies! Definitely a lot to consider here. I'm a bit stunted at the moment in regards to the color I want to lay down before putting the deadener in. Decisions decisions...

Chopski

iTrader: (1)

How much of an improvement did you get from all this? Would you consider it a quiet car now from before?

bassxlr8r

As far as the Peel and Seal, my experience is not as good. I had a customer bring a roll in for an El Camino I was working on to try to save money. Even with surface prep and using a solid wood roller, it could not even support its own weight as far as adhesion. Used it throughout the car (truck?) in doors, floor, and storage space behind the seats. They took it for a couple months and brought it back to finish the rear area, and when I pulled the sub box the mat that had been applied to the upper surface was laying on the box. Still kind of sticky, but with no residue at all on the panel it was attached to. Thought it was odd, so cleaned the painted metal again and reapplied it. Next morning it was laying on the floor, sticky side up again.

To be effective as intended, which is to reduce panel vibration by means of adding mass/weight to the panel to lessen the ability to flex/vibrate/resonate, it must be fully adhered to said panel. Applying it to floors may not seem to expose the shortcomings of it, as there is nowhere for it to sag or fall, but I'd bet that you could remove any section of it with ease. This in itself would show that it is not truly coupled with the panel, and really not giving much benefit especially in the area of reducing noise.

Over the years, I have used Dynamat, Hushmat, Rockford Fosgate (rebranded Hushmat), Vibramat, Raamat, Second Skin, Cascade Audio Engineering, and, unfortunately, Peel and Seal as well. Of all of these, other than P&S, the Dynamat was my least favorite, as I have seen it semi-liquify on doors and end up in a nasty glob in the bottom, or literally drip and run down a panel. I haven't used it in so long, that they may have improved the formulation since then, but with the ridiculous amount of competitive products that are generally priced lower I see no reason to try it again. "The best" isn't quite accurate, they are just one of the most widely known names since they have been around for so long and, for whatever reason (marketing budget/coverage mainly - funded by their premium pricing) are perceived as having a superior product.

Weight/thickness of many products factors into pricing as well (1mm/2mm/4mm), so if comparing solely on price make sure it is an apples to apples as far as specs of whatever you are looking at. A lot of companies will use a 2mm mat, but apply a texture prior to cutting that will thin out the amount that is actually contained within a given area of the sheets, which lessens the effectiveness of the product. Best of luck, not trying to step on toes or discount anyone's choices, just relaying my experience/opinions.

StevenK

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely yes. My car has a LS1 swap with headers and loud exhaust. It also has a whining 4.10 rear end gear. I drove the car around a bit with all the interior our as I was dreading cutting the carpet to fit, and once it was all in the car is so much quieter and cooler. The exhaust would just come right through the metal floor board. The foam backing on all the plastic parts helped a ton with rattles as well, now I can hear my super expensive speakers

Annihilate

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the replies.

I decided I am going to wait until I get her painted in the fall before doing the sound deadening in the interior. I figure when the time comes I will just have the whole thing painted inside and out, and take care of everything at once.

Will keep this thread in mind for when the time comes!

Gotta save money somewhere right now!