MrDude_1

[infomercial style]
have you put a 6spd LS1 in your thirdgen?


dying to drive it, but the clutch disengagement sucks?!

well have i got some news for you!


yes! i have found the answer to your clutch disengagement woes... the pedals MUST be LS1 pedals!




i know what your thinking... "travis, why must they be LS1 pedals? wont my thirdgen or LT1 pedals do? they hookup fine."

no. and want to know why?

[studio audience] YES! [/studio audience]

i'll tell ya why!


the distance between the pivot point of the pedal, and where the master cyl hooks up is farther apart on the LS1 pedal!

thats right... when you press down 1" on a LS1 pedal, it moves the master cyl farther then when you press down on a LT1 or thirdgen pedal!!!

amazing!

but thats not all!
[/infomercial style]



actually, it is all....

finally figured out the clutch disengagement woes i was having...

you can see blurry pics and a accidental movie made by hitting the wrong button on my camera, here:
http://66.83.134.202/travis/Clutch%20Pedal/




heres a MS paint visual:
green lines are the same length... red line matches the LT1 one, (not to scale but close) green match LS1 one...



its only a tiny diff, but do to the angles of the master cyl, its all the diff in teh world.

TexasLT1

any difference between 3rd gen and LT1 pedals?

MrDude_1

i dont know.

i only had LT1 pedals in my car to compare my LS1 pedals to.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

When I did my T56 swap, I kept my T5 pedals as they offered better disengagement over the LT1 pedals in the thirdgen.

The thought process was that the contour of the floorboard was different, thereby not allowing a complete disengagement of the clutch. Perhaps there is a difference between the pivot point for the master cylinder on all three setups.......

-jason

TexasLT1

yeah I kept my T-5 pedals as well when I swapped to T-56, but I noticed the pedal feels totally different compared to my buddies '95 Z28 and thats with brand new GM hydrualics. guess it could be the SPEC clutch, but oh well, I like it the way it is.

Ace

iTrader: (2)

i couldnt get ls1 pedals and a ls1 master to work in my car... UNTIL i cut it and made it adjustable.. the shaft just wasnt long enough to get the pedal high enough when i attached the master to the pedal at stock length it pulled the peddle down about an inch and half.. and it wasnt where i mounted the master as i tried twice and went from a nice little hole to a jumbo oval abortion least the booster covers it well


all i did was tap the shaft and put a collar nut on it.. works like a stock one.. i dont know how anyone makes them work otherwise :|

GMTech

I am running LS1 T56, Z06 clutch, LS1 F-body hydraulics and thirdgen T-5 pedals, and it functions great. I have no complaints.

MrDude_1

if the brake booster covers the hole at all, you're drilling way off in the wrong area......

GMTech

I think he means that looking down into the engine bay, the booster blocks the line of sight. I don't think he means the booster physically covers the hole.

MrDude_1

ahh, gotcha.

cam-

Hmmm MrDude were you running LT1 pedals or T5 thrd gen pedals?? The reason I ask is I ran a LT1 t56 for 6 years with t5 pedals and barfed out two slave cylinders from over extension and had to mess around with rod lengh. Another reason I ask is this is one of the few things I actually have completed is intstalling my new LS1 hydraulics and would rather not have to add more to my already huge list of things needing done!! lol. Perhaps a pin location measurment would suffice so the pin could be relocated or a new one put on rather than needing a full set of LS1 pedals? BTW did you also do the drill mod?? Thanks

MrDude_1

i was running LT1 pedals... ive never had T5 3rdgen pedals in this car..
techniclly, i have hybrid pedals now... i HAD LT1 pedals in there.
when i redid the clutch, i just replace the pedal itself.. so i have a LT1 piviot bolt, LT1 top "holding to the brake booster" bracket and LT1 brake pedal.. the clutch pledal is the LS1 one.. the gas pedal i cut off and replaced with my stock 3rdgen pedal.


i didnt measure the pin diff since i didnt have dial calipers on hand, and i needed to get my car going again.. (daily driver broke, im driving the LS1 vert everyday right now)



i had the drill mod done on my old master cyl.... when i couldnt get proper release, i ended up replacing the master and slave in a attempt to fix it.... so i dont have the drill mod done right now.. i plan to do it in the future..... (the far far future, i dont want to mess with it for a long time.. lol)

cam-

Cool beans thanks Dude. I think I'm gonna try the set up as is with the t5 pedals and see how she goes. I did the drill mod already as it seemed to be a pretty much manditory recomendation from the fourth gen boards. Heres to hoping it works out for me

GMTech

What would the drill mod be?

cam-

There is a problem with the stock LS1 Master where the orfice is too small not allowing the fluid to return to the reservoir quickly enough causing erratic shifting and mushy pedal feel. Check out this link in particular steps 16 and 17

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...r_cylinder.htm

MrDude_1

the stock clutch is semi grabby.. in a attempt to smooth it out, GM put restrictors in.

you push fluid thru them fine, but the slave cant push the fluid back as fast... so it slows the return, making the clutch release smoother.





except when you're drag racing, the 1-2 shift goes fine, but on the 2-3 shift, enough fluid hasnt returned, and you start slipping the clutch...