BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Do you guys that have already done the LSX swap think I can finish mine with $3,000? I'm trying to get an idea how much more I need to put in it to get it back on the road, so let me know what you think. Here's what I already have checked off on the list:

-engine, intake to oil pan and accessories
-T56, 3rd gen pedals, hydrolics, clutch, all that is associated with the trans
-Spohn cross member
-Spohn K-member
-Spohn motor mounting plates and LS1 mounts
-Walbro 255lph in-tank pump
-T5 shifter plate

I'm almost sure that's the list in full. I may be forgetting smaller things but right now I think that's it.

Things I know I still need are:

-Spohn torque arm
-SSW longtubes
-LS1 fbody harness and ECM
-custom bent exhaust after the headers, maybe true duals, not sure which way yet
-misc. hoses like radiator and such
-throttle cable
-MAF sensor
-fuel line kit from Hawks
-alum. driveshaft from an fbody

I'm thinking this list would probably get me going towards completion, what do you guys think? What's your input? I need some good news to tell the wifey, help me out!!! Haha!

3.1EyeCandy

iTrader: (3)

I think even with full price on the items you listed, you are within the 3000 budget. You're not far from going past it, but as long as you don't add ac work, additional suspension parts, etc you're fine.

I waited 3 years to start my project after being wed... You're a brave man.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

The only other "optional" choices I am considering are tubular a-arms and an LS6 intake. Then I have more saving to do before I get a 6 pt cage and a good rear end. I'm going to try and pick up an a/c delete box for right now, I'll have the wiring harness made to accept the a/c parts, and I'll keep everything I need like the condensor and stuff, but I don't want to mess with hooking it up right now, I want to enjoy it.

And actually, Krista's birthday present to me for my 22nd bday (March 20th of this year), was her permission to let me buy the truck block from craigslist. Note, I didn't say she bought it for me, she LET me buy it for myself. I've been able to buy everything I've needed so far without using OUR money, it's all money I had set aside from selling parts or doing side jobs or what have you.

ScorchedPaint

funny, i went through the same thing over the past few months and finally fired my car up for the first time today! spent 6500$ for everything. after the i am going to kill you for spending that much conversation, the goal line is near. It will be worth it all in the end, you will see!!! as far as your list goes consider getting some used part if you can from people on here if you are trying to stay in budget........

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

Hey Nick, What Iroc are you selling?

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

ghettocruiser hooked me up with a nice, used Spohn T56 cross member for a fairly cheap price. It would be nice if I could find a torque arm like that too, and the harness and computer I'm going to get off a wrecked car on LS1tech or something. I have seen them around $300 or so. I've already spent a fortune on this swap. I've sunk $4,600 or so in the engine alone, $1,200 in the transmission and clutch, then probably closer to $1,500 in the rest of the parts I have bought on top of that. If I had to guess, when it's all said and done I'll have between $10,000 and $11,000 in the whole package deal.

And for my wife, ya she is letting me use half the money from us selling her IROC-Z to pay for the rest of my parts, the other half of the money is buying our new daily driver. We are buying a 2001 Ford Focus from her dad, which was her first car in high school. We are in need of another snow-going vehicle.


We are selling the '87, which is my wife's car. My uncle is supposed to let me know tomorrow if he's buying it for my little cousin. She LOVES the car. I just don't think I could bare to see it if she wrecked it. Otherwise, I have a few bids on ebay which isn't anywhere near my reserve, but also have a seriously interested party locally as well.

Shift06

Wow you are only 22 BlueZee28? I envy you. I am 22 as well, but I am not married, and I still live at home, and I am struggling to finish my swap and I am not going with any performance goodies or even a six speed

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Haha, yea I'm kinda young to be married but it's all good. Me and my woman have a nice (small) house, and I am fortunate enough to have a wifey that lets me spend $ on the car. In fact, if you were to ask HER, she would probably say she is just as excited about it being finished as I am, she realllly wants to drive it.

So I guess the general consensus is that I CAN finish what I'm doing with the money I have set aside right now?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Ide say as long as you only have that stuff left, you can get there with 3k no problem. Shop around too. I HIGHLY suggest wait4me performance for your PCM. A bone stock PCM is SUPER cheap and they ship like lightning. Also...they will put a mail order tune on it for you for not much money, and they have a good reputation. Im not positive, but they might even have some harnesses laying around. Give em a call.

I think you'll be ok with your budget for completion. You always have the snowball effect, and run into the small things that chip away at money, but you should be ok.

J.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Well as far as I know, that's all I really need. I'm sure I'll run into other small things along the way. Things like the fuel line kit that you wouldn't normally think of until you went to hook it up and went "Wait, that doesn't fit there..."

LB9Iroc87

why dont you get everything you NEED and if you have the money leftover then you can get the longtubes. I know that TPI TERR used stock LS1 manifolds on his car and it runs great. Dont those heads cost around 1000K dollars?

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

Good deal keeping on the budget.

If it was me, I would ditch the tubular K-member. There are guys on mofbody who will notch it for you for $100 and powdercoat it for another $100.....unless you are targetting a specific et.

I guess your huge motor would need the BMR Torq arm. if not ditch that too. I have read on here and tech that the factory ones are better for street use. ......again unless you are targetting a specific et at the strip.

if the car us not a dd and your not planning on taking it cross-country while you get it tuned go with SD and ditch the MAF sensor.

I am sure you can find a used fuel line kit from a fbody and use jasons thread and do what he did.

I think u already upgraded to LS1 brakes

LB9Iroc87

those K-Members dont need to be notched if you use a corvette style Serp setup correct?

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

I already ordered the k-member. I didn't really want to notch the stock one plus I wanted the extra clearance with the oil pan. On top of that, a tubular piece just adds to the over-all coolness factor haha

Can a stock torque arm from an LS1 car work with the spohn crossmember???

This a street car that gets driven equal to or less than 3,000 miles per year. It will rarely see the track.

I hadn't read about making stock 4th gen fuel lines work, do you have a link?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

There is no advantage of a 4th gen stock torque arm over a thirdgen. They are almost, if not exactly, identical. I got my torque arm because I dislike stamped steel. I wanted to be able to adjust my pinion angle due to lowering the car. And I wanted it to be strong...and not mounted to a piece of cast aluminum on the trans. Some people will argue that there is no way you can break the trans where the arm mounts, but Ive seen it happen with less power than Im making. Thats why I went with the crossmember mounted adjustable spohn unit. I recommend it...even if you dont get the adjustable unit.

I have a bunch of posts about making the 4th gen fuel lines work. Check out my older threads on my 87 build...I have a few pictures. But they fit perfectly until you get to the front subframe on our cars. The 4th gen lines kick out before the engine bay. You have to cut out that kick out, and rejoin the line with a good compression fitting. Then the fuel lines will sit in the engine bay just like they did on a 4th gen. Assuming you are using the 4th gen tank, and can use the 4th gen lines, you can just use the stock LS1 fuel line to connect to the fuel rail. I did that for awhile until I built one out of russell fittings and stainless braided line.
I have a feeling you arent running a 4th gen tank though... are you?

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

No, a friend installed a Walbro 255 in my stock tank as a wedding gift so I'm thinking I may just buy the line kit from hawks and be done with it. That way sounds more simple (to me anyway).

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I don't think you'll make it. I haven't had it specifically estimated yet, but based on past experiences, I'm figuring on a least $1000 for exhaust after the headers.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Oh I'm not real worried about the exhaust... I have a few connections there. Plus I may just run open headers for a while just to keep the neighbors on their toes haha

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Taking the rest of your list, then, unless you find deals on used parts (rounded up for shipping costs):

-Spohn torque arm - $400
-SSW longtubes - $850-$900 (depending upon 2.5" or 3" collector)
-LS1 fbody harness and ECM - $200 (might be optimistic)
-custom bent exhaust after the headers, maybe true duals, not sure which way yet - ???
-misc. hoses like radiator and such - est $100
-throttle cable - $40 (stock) - $100 (Lokar)
-MAF sensor - $150
-fuel line kit from Hawks - (not seeing this on their website anymore)
-alum. driveshaft from an fbody - $150 used

That's about $2k for what I listed. Depending upon the deal you get on the exhaust, and whatever the fuel line kit costs, you may or may not make it.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

I have found alum. driveshafts locally for around $100. The throttle cable is $30 at the dealer, I can probably get a used MAF from someone local that is going SD for dirt cheap. I guess there's a few little ways of saving some money here and there.

Also, I found the fuel line kit on Hawk's website. It is under the LSX conversion parts:

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/ca...ellinekit.aspx

Is that all that is needed to complete the fuel delivery (with a regulator)? I've got an aeromotive regulator that came off an LS based truck.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Oh the other thing I wasn't sure if I'll need or not, the mechanical to electronic speedo box from Hawks? When using a T56 is it needed? I wasn't really sure of that one, but I haven't read up on it yet, it's one of the only things I haven't looked into yet.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Given the fact that you're swapping into a '92 (and thus should have an electronic speedometer), you shouldn't need the separate box, but you will need to have the ECM programmed appropriately. I don't remember the specifics off-hand, but the LS series engines use a "slower" rate (40 ppm?) than the stock thirdgen electronic speedo setup (2400 ppm? 4000 ppm?).

Anyway, as long as you have the electronic speedo, you won't need the converter box. IIRC, Pontiacs got the electronic units in '89, & Camaros got it in 1990. Hope this helps.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Torque arm is optional. If anything build a mount that attaches to the crossmember

Headers are again optional. If cost is a big issue but you want headers, modify some SBC headers. There are several threads about it on TGO and tech

MAF sensors are quite cheap. Find one on tech or ebay. Keep in mind truck sensors use a 5 wire connector because they incorporate the IAT sensor into the MAF. They are also somewhat larger units compared to stock Fbody MAFs. I recently sourced a truck MAF and the correct pigtail with PCM leads for $50 total

The Hawks fuel line kit is absurd. Price out some fittings and lines. For that price you can do every inch of line in AN-6 from the tank to the rail and have money left over. Do a search on my name, I have made atleast two lists with part numbers and prices covering fittings required. Im currently dumping those lists for a cheaper more reliable setup using the vette filter and lines starting at the tank

Why bother with the alum DS? Sure its a slight weight drop but there are numerous dyno sheets showing you really dont gain anything from the shaft, just less weight. LS1 cars do have one saving grace thou. The front yoke has a damper on it which cuts down high speed vibrations

Your $3,000 goal is very feasible though

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

On the new VSS, you guys are close

The new PCM will understand what the T56 puts out regardless of what it actually is: 40 pulse per revolution or 17 pulse per revolution as some people on tech cling to

The speedo output is still the same 4,000 pulse per mile as your stock electric speedo. Any difference will be from gearing/tire size and can be tweaked in the PCM during the tune

The converter box comes in when swapping a LT1 style T56 in because the TPI ECM has no idea what to do with the wierd signal. The box will convert the VSS signal to something the ECM can understand, then the ECM will change it to the 4,000PPM your speedo can understand

Shift06

I look forward to this updated cheaper list

my89

Pony up another 2K for the new Spohn rack and pinion and tell us how it is. You need the tubular k-member for it to work...

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Well I can scratch the alum. driveshaft and the wiring harness off the list. I am going to use the stock driveshaft because I have been looking around on LS1tech and seen a lot of pictures of shredded alum. pieces. I bought the harness I needed too, and picking up the headers this weekend.

The only other thing (I think) that I didn't account for was a good tune once it's running, but I have some hook-ups there as well.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Man, DON'T tell me that... My car has an aluminum DS stock!




(Of course that would be a half-decent excuse to step up to a beefy CF unit...)

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

From what I found out, I wouldn't waste the money on a carbon fiber unit. Total waste of money, the weight difference between a steel and aluminum driveshaft is pretty minimal, not enough enough to pick up more than a tenth of a second on your ET, if that. For the cost of a carbon fiber drive shaft, you could buy a lot more stuff and drop more time in your ET.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

For what its worth, I havent seen any issues with my alum shaft. And Ive been pretty rough on mine to say the least haha.

I think the guys you see shredding them are running slicks and are really dead hooking on the track. They're the same guys that are going to find the weak link no matter what. My aluminum 4th gen shaft felt WAY lighter than the stock thirdgen one...but I didnt weigh the two so I cant say for srue.

For what you are doing with the car...Im sure a stock shaft will be ok. If you think it'll be a problem, run it for now and upgrade when you can.

J.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

I'm sure at some point I'll be borrowing my friend's drag radials and going to the track. It sure would suck if I had an alum. drive shaft and twisted it in half.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Better that than your trans exploding or your rear end fragging haha. I like having my weak link being the DS. I still need to put in a loop though... Thats the only thing left I have to do under the car really. Ide much rather shred a DS than blow up my rear or my transmission. Or my clutch.

I think you'll be ok. Lots of guys running the alum shaft at the track. Pulling tires and all. Save up and get a Top Gun shaft or something later on.

J.

Shift06

I wish I lived in your neighborhood. The Dealer here is soooooo expensive. I just ordered some starter bolts 2 days ago and they wanted $15 for the long one and $9 for the short one :O Not to mention the $10 ea. motor mount through bolts, and the $15 core plug.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Dang, well if you want I can buy you parts thru my dealer for you if you find that the prices are better. I'm not sure if it would be totally worth it after shipping though?