ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

What's up everyone? Ive been kind of away from the forum for awhile save for a couple PMs and random rambling posts here and there. But now I need some bonified advice. This is gonna get ugly/long...so I apologize.

As most of you know..my car is down. Im guessing a bent rod, but I havent taken it apart yet. Its just...sitting there....depressing the heck out of me.

In any event, Im a couple months away from having a mortgage and a house. As time goes on, obviously, Ill have less and less money/time to spend on my car. I was thinking about selling her, but I just cant bring myself to do it. Besides...its busted. Wont bring me much money. So, I need to fix her. Here's where you guys come in.

A brief breakdown of whats in the car right now to help with this process. I need to reuse as MUCH as I can off this motor so that this is as cost effective as possible. But..at the same time..I need to improve on some things like ring seal and I want a different cam.

What I have now:
99 LS1 block, built by ARE when they were around (hence the ring seal issues). Supposedly with a forged crank. Bearings arent important because Ill replace them no matter what. Ross pistons. NO idea on their configuration. ARP rod bolts, ARE ported oil pump, 228/224 113+1 Comp XE-R reverse split cam, and an adjustable timing chain. The heads are supposedly MTI Stage 2e 5.3L heads. Milled .015ish. Double springs...but Im not sure of the brand or miles on them. The casting on the heads is 862... They appear to be ported a good bit, and breathe like crazy. 30lb injectors...which I need to replace as well due to a few of them being clogged and screwing up my last tune session. Fast 90/NW 90 intake set up. Basically repeating whats in my sig haha. If you need to know more about my parts for any reason ask.

What Im looking at trying to do...

1) Tear the block down, replace the rods, replace the bearings, light hone on the cylinders, re-ring and put it all back together with maybe new lifters. Figure out a better cam to use and slap that puppy in... I should be able to do this fairly easy...ASSUMING nothing else is bad in the motor, and the cylinder bores are ok. I dont think Ill need the block machined. It has way less than 30k on it. So rings, lifters, gaskets, cam, probably pushrods, main/rod bearings...

2) Been thinkin 6.0L... I know LQ4s are easy to get..and LQ9s are higher comp. I also know that everything on my LS1 will bolt on. So I can reuse pretty much everything. So Ide be swapping the crank to work with my t56, reusing the pistons and rods from the 6.0...and then everything else goes on. Pick a decent cam and go. Gain a couple hundred pounds...but gain some displacement and hopefully some power. I guess new bearings and rings would be a good idea in this instance too. As those 6.0s are cheap...it would cost about the same as option 1...just adding whatever the block costs. This I might send to the machine shop also.

Im not sure if I should hold off and look for LQ9s...or if my 5.3 heads will bump compression enough on the LQ4 to make some good power. Or if using my heads on an LQ9 would put my comp TOO high. I have ZERO ideas on cams...basically figured Ide get some ideas and maybe call some builders. Not looking to go too radical. Needs to be streetable, but Ide like more grunt down low while still able to rev. Basically a more diverse cam than what I have now...which doesnt make power until 4600. Great for launching and running all out..but no fun on the back roads or streets. It also sounded lame haha.

Just trying to get a leg up on things here. I havent really looked into 6.0s before...because I didnt expect to want to do it. But its tempting... However just fixing what I have is tempting too. I guess it comes down to extra cost to go 6.0 vs. the power increase...if any.

Any input guys? I know thats asking a lot..and this was a long drawn out post. I just need to brain storm. Not looking to get into over on Tech just yet haha....I know some of you guys have 6.0s...and are much better at engine planning than I am.

J.

1nasty86

iTrader: (5)

The 6.0 should make roughly 20hp more stock than a ls1 with the same mods. Use the 862 heads, buy some comp. 918 springs, use your cam, timing chain, buy ls7 lifters, and replace the crank. The smaller combustion chamber will increase compression ALOT but the 317 heads could be shaved also. Id go the 6.0 route and use what you have. But thats just my 0.02

White'89

iTrader: (8)

See what you can find as far as a cheap or low mileage 6.0L either short or long block and once thats in your possession I would tear down your LS1 and go from there. Absolutely everything can be reused so you would probably spend $100 max on gaskets(assuming they cant be reused) swapping the shortblocks.

Then whatever you get back out of what you can sell off. Not sure what you would have to do as far as the flywheel goes.

1badeagle

iTrader: (2)

Im going the 6.0 route just because my friend has a ls1/t56 swapped car. I figure the weight will be fine with the extra power ill make. I have a 03 lq4 with stage 3 tea heads milled to 58 cc chambers. I should be near the 11:1 compression mark. Should also run like a raped ape

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The only reason (IMO) to replace the LQ4 crank would be to retain your forged crank. All aluminum-headed LQ4's have the same flywheel flange as LS1's. With the power that's been claimed with stock cranks, seems like a waste of time to me. And, if you bent a rod, the crank should be checked out as well - could be bent or cracked (even if it is forged).

You wouldn't gain a couple hundred pounds with LQ4 shortblock over LS1. Maybe 100 (I think the actual number is 70).

Oh, if you do decide to rering the LS1 block, "light hone" is the wrong idea. "Break the glaze" is all you're shooting for. Doesn't take much.

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

Keep your heads, LQ4 for the shortblock, should be able to get one for $500-700

Sell off the LQ4 heads for 100-150

You can get a comp cam from summit for barely over $300 if you look around for a discount code.

XFI RPH Hi-Lift XR275HR would be a nice choice 222/224 .566/568

The extra bump in displacement will also help a little with your want for more low end.

Blownz28man

iTrader: (2)

My vote, LQ4 L92 heads and a decent cam.

88FormulaKiller

iTrader: (8)

Just from my own swap im putting together this is my own opinion, if i were you...

Strip the LS1 down of all usable parts to a short block, sell that for w/e it will fetch (guessing here, 300-400?) and use that towards a $1000 complete 6.0L engine from LKQ. Sell off the truck parts you dont need from the 6.0, should yield you about 200-400 depending on buyers leaving you only about 200-500 into the 6.0 ready to run (again depending on your shortblock sale and 6.0 truck part sales). To me this seems the most cost effective way since you have a house on the way. My .02, good luck man.

1nasty86

iTrader: (5)

There are 6.0 shortblocks everywhere on ls1tech and performancetrucks. Post up and see what you can get. I had a 6.0 shortblock that I let go for 350. nothing wrong with it. You just have to look

88FormulaKiller

iTrader: (8)

Used engines from LKQ come with an automatic 6 month warranty.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Hey fellas...thanks for the input!

Im going to look into LKQ to see what they have. Im not sure Im willing to buy a 1000-1500 motor and then have to part it out. I think Ide rather find a short block. I highly doubt the warranty will be any good once its bastardized haha. Regardless, I will be freshening up whatever motor I use with at least bearings, if not bearings and rings. Ill probably send whatever block I get to a shop to have new cam bearings put in, and check all my mating surfaces. Its cheap enough insurance.

Lets see...starting to sound like general consensus is to run a 6.0 at this point. I have seen LQ4s go for less than what a set of rods cost for an LS1 haha. So its very tempting. Plus...I could always save up and get some stroker parts and I would already have the block for that hahaha.

With my milled 862...would I be better off with an LQ4? Im guessing my CR would be over 10.0:1 at that point...probably even close to 11. Or would I be better off holding out for an LQ9 to get the extra compression? I certainly dont want to run into a situation where my compression is TOO high for pump gas and street driving. But I also dont want to leave extra HP on the table when I could have just waited for the block I would be best with.

five7...So the LQ4s have the correct crank configuration for me already? I thought no matter what 6.0 you got you had to change the crank...but Ive just started doing my research. As for my bent rod, it was due to a hydro lock. Motor locked while pretty much at idle, and the only things not aftermarket were the rods. So Im guessing the weak link just gave out. I highly doubt the crank is damaged....but Ill be sending parts to a machine shop one way or the other, so Ill be sure to have it checked. Ide like to get whatever I build balanced..but we'll see what the budget allows for. If the stock 6.0 crank will work...and I have any question on mine...Ill just run the stocker and maybe try to sell my "damaged" short block for whatever I can get. Someone can replace the rod and have a decent motor. And when I said light hone, I guess breaking the glaze is what I should have said. Its just to give the new rings a good surface to seat. But I might just have a shop look at that like I said.

When I pull my heads I def plan to do some checking. Ide like to know my chamber volume and what valves are in them etc etc. So Ill have a better idea of what I might wind up with compression ratio wise. Its kind of sounding like Ill be ok with the LQ4 and my heads. Just have to pick a good cam and it might actually be a bit of a step up from the LS1 haha.

My goals are a street friendly 425+ rwhp through my T56 and 12 bolt. And while Im doing this on a budget, and more or less throwing used parts around...I would still like to take whatever precautions I can afford to make this motor reliable. Hence my want to get the surfaces checked, new bearings, balancing...etc etc.

My mind is still scrambled with all these ideas. So I kind of started to make a list, and get some prices together. I have a couple machine shops that come highly recommended by the "old fellas" at my work. Not only have they used these shops for builds...but they have an "in" with them. So if I name drop I might be able to get a break on prices.

Thanks for the brain storming gents. Its definately helping me out. I dont know why I get so tripped up on the motor build stuff. I know one thing...this next project will make for a fun new thread! Haha. Got some new ideas to improve the "swap" as a whole too. Wiring, etc.

88FormulaKiller

iTrader: (8)

hey man good luck with w/e you choose, just call me up if you decide on an LKQ engine, i work for'em.

stoning_volcom

i would retain the same setup

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

There was a good thread about that a year or two ago. Should find it and link it in the LS1 swap sticky.

The LQ4's that had cast iron heads had the oddball crank. When they started putting on the aluminum heads, they went with the "standard" LS1 crank. I believe the years were '99-'00 for cast iron heads, but I need to check that.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

1999-2000 had iron heads.!!!

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Great info...thanks. Most of the motors Ive been eying up have been newer than 2000 I think. I should print out the charts that Ive found on what years were what and what the motors came in etc etc.

I really do have to start over in the research dept. So much new info is available since I have even looked at the stickies and what not. I felt kind of desperate even making a post about it haha...but my time is so limited these days and my brain is all over the place I figured Ide get some help haha.

J.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

The pre 2001 LQ4's had a different rear crank seal width which is different than all LS motors going forward. I would not waste my time trying to find an LQ9. You will spend too much and its not worth it for the pistons or rod upgrades. The LQ4 is optimal because you can run various types of heads and with the dished pistons you can basically run any head to dial in your CR. Look for a motor that had a top end fire. They sell for much less (I bought one with 30k miles for $400) since most of the parts are damaged (but not the ones you need). I would take your current set-up apart first to see what is wrong. You might be surprised what you find and a simple fix might be needed instead of a costly swap.

EDIT: The iron block is between 70 and 90 lbs heavier than its aluminum brother. I have seen conflicting data in various build books that I have but it is somewhere in that range.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

AWESOME info... thanks. I was waiting for someone to tell me..."I wouldnt bother waiting for an LQ9"...because Ive found so many good LQ4 deals. And with my heads being 5.3, and milled, with the option to mill them a tad more and play with head gasket thicknesses...I think Ill be ok CR wise.

So Im looking for a 2001+ block to avoid the crank issues? Again..I really need to just go do some reading. Wanted to do some looking this weekend but my wife's jeep needed attention.

As for tearing my block apart first... That will def happen. As for the simple fix...Im sure it is a "simple" fix to get it running. I just need to replace a rod (i think). However its the fact that Ide be stupid to just put it back in. It has blow by to the tune of a quart every 1000 miles or so haha. Its an ARE short block, and if you do some digging youll find Im not alone. Even my tuner mentioned seeing ARE blocks with ring issues out of the gate. If Im going to do any extra work to the LS block...Ide rather gain some cubes and maybe some power while Im at it.

Thats kind of where this thread was hoping taking me. If I stay with my LS block...it has to go into a shop. I want to make sure the hydrolock didnt cause any other issues. And I have to have the cylinder bores tended to for the new rings. I have to replace a rod...but again Ide be dumb to just put one rod in. Ide get a known good, or new set. Which can get expensive. But if I have to do all of that stuff anyway...now would be a good time to go to more cubes...ESP if I can make more power. Sort of what Im fighting with now.

On a side note...it would be kind of nice to have iron to bolt things to haha. Torquing bolts down to alum makes me cringe. I already know I have at least one oil pan hole that needs to be helicoiled as the bolt has long since fallen out. One of the starter bolts feels funky too when tightening... haha.

J.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I'm with you there Ghetto about torquing bolts into aluminum! That was the one part of my built that I didn't enjoy. My first reaction to your thread was to fix what you have and be done with it, but I see where you are coming from. I'd say if you can find a cheap 6.0L then go for it. Then you could sell the LS1 and not even mess with it if you wanted to. Just my

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

I would find a low mileage 6.0 and transfer everything over as is. Your car will run awesome and you can add parts to it later. Do you know what the chamber size of your 5.3 heads are now? Keeping the 6.0 stock shortblock and you avoid machine shop costs and parts costs. I always say a running car with 400 hp is better than a theoretical 600 hp car.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

You got that right... My car never even saw 400 with the clogged injectors. At least not on the dyno... And my car was ALWAYS fun to drive. Thats why my goals are 425 or better with whatever I end up with. Not looking for 500 hp. But I think with a good cam choice and good tune I can see the 425 number pretty easy. From what Ive read anyway... My exhaust flows pretty nice for what it is. I dont think the primaries or my y-pipe size will limit me at these power levels just yet.

Im not 100% sure on my heads. One of my first projects, since I want to keep the heads, will be to pull them and clean them up. I want to check the chamber size, and what valves are in it etc etc. I know they are 862s, and are supposedly MTI Stage 2e 5.3L heads. The previous owner had them milled .010-.015. I have receipts for them in my files. Bought from thunder racing I think.

If I find a low enough mileage 6.0...I might be tempted to just leave it alone. Try to run with the rings and bearings that are in it. But its going to be very tempting for me to have new cam bearings put in, and install new rings and rod/main bearings. I guess it all depends what I find.

cam-

Agreed with above comments. Part out your LS1, Buy a cheap 6.0L, and swap parts as needed but in my opinion tearing into the bottom end is a complete waste of time and dough for what your goals are. That said after spending the better part of a year going over every bloody cam and lobe design out there for my build I think that 425 whp goal might hurt you just a little. You might get it anyways but my point is I'd avoid anything over 224/228 on the cam for what you want this is the ticket. Soon as you get into the 228< range on duration it simply moves your power band up higher and kills your bottom end. Theres no real way around this. So with a goal of 410-420 I think you'd be a lot happier and aside from dyno bragging rights likely every bit as quick down the track. Sheldon did 420 whp with a 224 cam on his budget 6.0L and ran mid 11's iirc. Regardless I know it was a 6.0L and a small 224 cam with TS LS6 stage 1 heads and an LS6 intake. T56 also so a very similar car to yours. He just sold it btw... Sad to see actually as it was his first car I remember when he bought it just before turning 16. Hes going to live to regret that one day im sure but he has a C5 now so hes lost in Vette happy happy land.


Anyways with all that said even with a 410 whp goal ( which you still might hit your 425 )... Sometimes magically those smaller cams do this depending on set up and that specific day on the dyno. But going after a sure 425 might put you over the top in terms of streetable cams. Now sure theres lots out there who claim this and that with super high numbers but to keep in mind whats possible with the right combo... IIRC it was Vengeance racing who took a 430 whp L92 head 6.0L in a full weight fourth gen to 10.80 so... Just saying dont get all wrapped up in the dyno numbers as your main goal. I think a nice 224 cam would be mint in there. If you want to spend a"little" more and get it absolutely humming EPS cams have been acheiving near miraculous results this past year. Check out this thread ( theres lots of cam only LS1's on EPS cams running mid 11's btw )

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/dynamo...o-results.html

heres another as I said theres LOTS just google EPS cam only and watch em pop up

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/dynamo...k-results.html



Also if you havent bought an engine yet I see burnt 6.0's with super low mileage go for under 500 bucks. Usually just the intake and belts that are cooked a little I cant see how the bottom end could be damaged from most of them. Anyways happy hunting and good luck on the new house

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Thanks cam! A burnt up, low mile motor for 500 or less would be clutch right now. Its going to be really hard for me to not tear the bottom end apart...haha. But Im starting to find that the general concensus is to just tear it down, slap my parts in and go. As long as no crank changes or any wear is visible, I might just do that. I still might do new lifters for a piece of mind, because Im not sure whats in mine now. And whatever else I might need to support the new cam. Im still stuck on getting a new cam no matter what.

Im not too set on my hp goals. Its just the ball park Ide like to wind up in. My combo went 11.5 in a 99 camaro vert on Nittos. It never made super high numbers for the previous owner. I dont think he broke the 400 mark when his car was an auto, and he never had it dyno'd after doing the 6 speed conversion. My dyno runs showed low numbers due to being down cylinders, so Ill never know the potential of whats in there.

Im willing to give up alittle streetability. It doesnt need to drive like a stock car. This car sees less than 5k miles a year. I just dont want to take it to work one day, get stuck in traffic and have a nightmare getting through it. I drove it for awhile with the alum flywheel and poor tune...and I made out ok then haha. Im going to use your cam suggestions as a starting point! Im going to def consult with someone like Pat G. just to solidify my choice. I could care less about dyno bragging rights. I want her to sound good, run good, and scare people...and maybe make the occasional run at the track. My days of being able to afford breaking things at the track are long gone haha.

And darn...I dont think I knew that Sheldon sold his car. I knew he was into a vette, but didnt realize he got rid of the vert. That was a hot car.

Now to just convince the wife that building a motor in the basement is a great idea and I can start doing tear down work haha.

J.

cam-

Temptation aside... Try and find proof of an LSx bottom end engine failure that HASNT been opened up for anything more than a rod bolt upgrade. Bottom end failures on NA LS engines are very far and few between. These things are TOUGH and considering a 500< outlay? Heck if it grenades just get another one

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Seems like more work to buy a new motor and part out the old one. I'm gonna go against the majority here and say keep the LS1, re-ring it and put it all back together and run it. Throw on new springs and get a custom grind cam for the heads. Should have them flowed to be sure of the cfm and port velocities. Give the grinder that data.

I think thats your best bet for cost savings. Now if you find more things wrong with the motor and you end up in a pickle, then yeah, probably need to look at a new shortblock.

LS1 is easy to get to 400-425whp. Dont need alot of cam to do that with good heads and fast 90/90

cam-

Might be more work to hunt down another engine but it'll be a lot cheaper than building a short. Even if you do your own building just on machining and parts alone would cost you what I could build a whole engine for with a used short and thats new cam and all. Just saying if dough is tight...

Stick with the tight wads advice LOL

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

"The quiet sounds coming from under the hood totally fool you about the strong power that hits the pavement. It is so unexpected. The white car makes outstanding power for being such a mild cam."
Thats a quote from Pat G talking about the EPS cams haha. I like the sounds of that.

There is no question that if I re-use the LS block, Im going to freshen it. Rings, rod/main bearings, and possibly cam bearings. I just dont know what all happened to it, and it did have water in it. So who knows.

If its true that finding a low mile LQ4 will provide me a safe base for my power levels...then I might be willing to just put one together and see what happens. Parting out my current block will probably yeild me a decent return since it does have aftermarket pistons...and if the block itself is ok, those bring a decent penny too. Ill be able to recoup my 6.0 cost and then some I imagine.

All good input fellas. Im mulling it all over thats for sure. Im really getting excited to tear into my motor and see whats what. This warm weather we had today gave me the bug even more. It might have to wait a bit yet...but Im hoping to get something done fairly soon.

J.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

OK fellas. Heading out on Saturday to check over a 6.0 that I found for sale. Price seems pretty decent. Its out of a 2002 2500 that was rear-ended. Owner says the truck had 80k miles on it. It comes with lots of parts that I could probably sell off and recoup some money. Its never had the heads off...only the oil pan was changed to an F-body pan... project was given up on so now its for sale.

Anything I should look for aside from obvious stuff? I wont be able to run a compression test on it. I plan to yank the valve covers just to see how things look. If its all cruddy...it might affect my purchase but we'll see. Ill be able to rotate it over. Hopefully its not a rusty mess like some of the motors Ive seen.

Get it, strip it, put my junk back on it...and maybe get the car running for next spring. After I buy new tires somehow and get the fuel system up to snuff haha.

Thoughts? Considerations? Speak or forever hold your peace! haha.

J.

88blackiroc

iTrader: (1)

Good luck and hope you find a good one! I too will soon be in the market for a 6.0 soon. Looking foward to see you get to work again!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

If it had half-way decently regular oil changes, and really has 80k miles on it, it should be fine.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Thats what I was hoping to hear haha. I have no way of verifying the miles. Only thing I can do is check it over and see what it looks like. I know what my valvetrain looks like with regular oil changes. And I know what they CAN look like when abused. So we'll see. Most I might do is pop a cap or two and see how the bearings look. Otherwise...Im going to trust it.

Does anyone know if I can/should re-use my ARP rod bolts from the LS1 on the 6.0? Im pretty sure they are re-usable...

Started doing some research on the LQ4 and the 862 heads that I have. A lot of chatter over on the performance truck boards saying they arent a good choice. Some say get bigger valves put in. Some say they are fine withs ome work... I know mine are ported, polished, and milled. Im not sure what valves are in them...hoping to find out this weekend if I get a break from home life haha. Ide like to get them home and check the chamber size and decide what to do about the springs (keep em/change em) etc.

Ill keep ya'll posted!

J.

88blackiroc

iTrader: (1)

Im 90% sure that the rod bolts are reuseable. But that's all the advice I got about it lol I haven't gotten deep into heads or cams yet

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

haha Ill look into it for sure.

Anyone have any advice as to what head gaskets I use with a 6.0 sporting 5.3 heads? Do I get gaskets for a 6.0...? Or for an LS1/5.3? I want to use GM MLS gaskets...not sure which thickness yet.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

6.0.

88FormulaKiller

iTrader: (8)

hey man, i gotta 6.2 from an 08 Denali at work eh eh?? lol low price of $3500 ! lmao

but yeah, 6.0 or 6.2 from me

-or-

L33 5.3 w/ Turbo

85streetmachine

IIRC, Gm head gaskets only come in one thickness, but cometics have different thicknesses.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Ok cool... For some reason I remember seeing the GMs in different sizes. And now that I think about it, getting the 6.0 Gaskets makes the most sense. I really have no idea whats been done to the heads. There are no more specs available for them, so I just have to pull them apart. They are MTI Stage 2e heads. Whether they put 2.00 intake valves in or not...I have no idea. I know there might be some shrouding due to the different in bore size, but I dont know if it'll be enough to deter me from using my current heads. Figured Ill keep the stock 6.0 heads handy just in case. Once I know Im ok, Ill get rid of them.

Im getting excited... This might actually happen. I hope the motor is ok and doesnt get scooped up before I can snag it. I would have gone to get it this week but my wife works night shift this week so Im home with the kid all night.

If this falls through, I found another guy that would sell me a rebuilt LS1 for a reasonable price + my shortblock. Im a little leary of a "rebuilt" motor when I dont know what all was done and by who....but its def an option if the 6.0 road dead ends.

Im going to have 100 more panic questions Im sure. Ive been out of the game for a bit, so my brain is rusty. Trying to play catch up...but my kid pretty much has my brain working at half speed haha. SO forgive any rookie questions I may throw out.

J.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

All GM MLS gaskets are the same thickness except the LS9 gaskets because they use 5 layers of steel vs 3. Doesnt really matter because changing gasket thickness wont drop compression that much

If you go for the rebuilt engine, get a warranty in writing and ask him the particulars of the build. How it was honed, how much, what rings at what gap, did he do cam bearings, oil pump type etc. If he only has one or two in his garage then you might want to look for a different engine

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Good advice on the rebuilt pocket...thanks!


But....





BOO-YAH!!!

02 LQ4 with approx 80k miles. Complete top to bottom. Cam with two intakes, two sets of coils with brackets, whole uncut harness and PCM, exhaust manifolds, new truck water pump, and a bunch of misc things including a box of new AC Delco Iridiums. I had good luck with them before...and they arent cheap by any means.

Motor looks clean on the outside. Not wet or rusty. Normal carbon build up in the intake/exhaust ports but not bad. Nice light color under the valve covers with no sludge. Motor turns over nice and smooth without any hiccups.

Going to take it home tomorrow, get it on the stand, and start tearing parts off it. Trying to decide how far to go with cleaning it, painting it, replacing things like the RMS etc. Going to hold onto the heads until Im sure my current heads will be ok...but everything else is going to get fire sold haha. I HOPE to make back a few bucks...I have enough extra crap where I should make something. We'll see!

Stay tuned. Not sure if Im going to start another thread and show some tear down pics, or just kind of hoard them for later when I actually get to work. Knowing me ILl post pics now since Im a pic ***** haha.

Getting slightly excited...

J.

1nasty86

iTrader: (5)

nice to hear man!

coptzer

iTrader: (2)

I'd be getting more than "slightly excited"....I'd be like a kid at Christmas. I am about two weeks from my pullout being delivered, and I can't stand it. I am already thinking of selling my LS1 and going 6.0 and I don't even have it in my possession! Definitely show some tear down pics, don't tease us and make us wait. I will be watching closely. Good luck with the build.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

You got it. Ill start a thread today. Probably going to move pretty slow here at first. Today's goals are to get it home safely (its all piled in my wife's cherokee), get it out which is another chore, and get it on the stand that I just bought. Mixed in with that is cleaning up the garage, organizing parts, probably making a trash pile.

The other big job I have is that I have to wash my Jeep, clean it up a little, hit parts of it with some spray paint to make it look a little better, and snap some pics for sale. This will more than fund my project since Im hoping to almost make my motor money back by selling off the parts and my LS1 short block.

IF I get all that stuff done, and my wife isnt calling me to come home, I might start popping some parts off the 6.0. Either way, Ill snap pics of it and start a thread. Goals are to have the car on the road for spring time. Finding time to work on it will be tough.

If any of you guys have some real good ways of getting two motors down a few concrete steps into my basement...AND get them back out...Im all ears. Seriously considering it. That way I can put the kid to bed and go down and tinker for a few hours. INstead of driving 45 minutes, working for a bit, then heading home every once in a while.

J.

coptzer

iTrader: (2)

Yeah this is always the hard part for me. Three damn vehicles and a two car garage. I am building a second garage in the spring just for my car, and don't think I'll be tearing my car apart until it's done. No need to disappoint the wife with car clutter all over "her garage". lol

I am going to be putting my pullout in the basement as well to work on it and the wiring. But I am lucky, I have a walkout basement. In my old house, I brought my old motor from the garage to the basement down like 5 steps. I put the motor on the stand, tied some straps to it, and then set it on an old red plastic sled. Stood at the top of the stairs and eased her down the stairs. Worked slick! Bringing it up was a little challenge. You could also build a wooden ramp out of some plywood, and roll it down on the stand. Just some thoughts and good luck with the adventure.

Steve

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Im torn on the basement work... It would be awesome for assembly. But disassembly and cleaning might pose an issue. Brake cleaner is my solvent of choice, and its potent. Im worried Ill cause fumes big time in the house. Scratch that...I WILL cause fumes in the house. So I might have to get creative. Like..pull a part and clean it in the yard, then bring it back in. Which is fine right now. But when its freezing and snowy...might be tough.

Im thinking about bolting the motor mounts down on some 2x4s...or get some long poles and weld standoffs on them to bolt to the mounts. Then two guys could lift it from each end comfortably. Also, I could leave one end on the stairs, lift the other and get the stand in place. So I wont need a hoist in the basement to get it onto the stand haha.

Could be pipe dreaming with this idea though. Might need to tear it down, wait til I have all the parts I could possible need, take a long weekend or a few days off work and just go at it. Hopefully nothing pops up unexpectedly that requires a parts order. I have a list that contains stuff I KNOW I need (gaskets mostly) and also some stuff that I should get (like the slave cylinder even though its fairly new...but I dont want to risk it). So I should have a pretty good pile of parts once they're all ordered.

I have time to figure it out. Im just glad this actually might happen now... Thought the car was as good as gone for parts there for a while.

J.

STREETDEMON

glad to hear you are back at it!