JMJ2003

My 84 is running rather hot.

And I don't know why either.

I pulled it out last night to drive to class, and it usually runs along the second line of the temp. guage... I suck at math and can't figure out what that line represents. Than it quickly built to 220, which I've only seen it run at once or twice, both times I had little to no coolant in it.

Yes, I have coolant.
Yes, I have the lower front spoiler, Vinny. Thanks for bailing on me last night when you were supposed to be helping! Jackal.

Firebreed

my 83 has been running rather hot as well, go get a coolent flush/ replace your thermostat, firebirds have a tougher time staying cool do to the way their front is designed (even less of a grill area then the maros have) make sure none of your hoses are colapsing (radiator hoses) and unlike my car, if you have that heater diverter valve thing (not sure what its called or where it is at) make sure that isn't broken, also make sure your fan/fans are working.

valencia1z

change ure thermostat might be stuck and dont let them sell u a stock temp do like a 160 180 and theres the fail safe 1 that if it stops workin it stays open not closed

PHAT89TA

First i say check ur fans to see if their working. If they work then flush ur cooling system and put a 160t-stat and check if it still overheats

IROC350TPI

First thing...did you look to make sure that you don't have like a plastic bag covering the front of the radiator? These cars tend to suck stuff up from time to time when you drive over things. And I'm sorry but a 160* thermostat isn't going to help in the situation. These cars just run hot. I agree that you should first check the fans, if they are working then go out and replace the thermostat. I WOULD try a lower one, perhaps a 180 but unless the old thermostat is completely stuck and not working then no matter what thermostat you buy it isn't going to solve the issue. All the thermostat is doing is opening up to allow water to run past it at a certain degree. If your old thermostat is ok then a lower one isn't going to solve the problem, just open sooner. Check your water pump to make sure it isn't leaking, check the hoses for one that is colapsed, and also get the system flushed. If that doesn't help you I'm not sure where to go. I would look at replacing the pump and perhaps pulling the radiator to have it worked on. Just remember that the thermostat isn't going to fix the issue here. If the car is truely over heating that means the radiator isn't doing its job to cool the water. As long as the water is hot, the thermostat should open which means nothing other than the water has the ability to reach the radiator and cool, but it isn't. If the thermo works, leave it alone and move on.

If you do have a bad thermostat, obviously replace it, but just remember that when GM designed these cars, they made them to run HOT. Like 195* is normal for them all the time, they did this so the cars would be more fuel effecient. They loose performance at that high of a temp, but they get better fuel mileage and the heaters work. I run a 180 in my IROC and don't have any issues during the summer or winter. Sure the car gets hot as hell during the summer, especially in stop and go traffic, they are going to, that's what the fans are for. They keep pulling that outside air through the radiator even when you aren't moving. Also with that 180 my heater still works just fine during the winter. I used to have a 160 in the car and the heater never got hot during the winter months and it sucked, car was always cold and got terrible mileage as well.

Anyway enough of my rambling on. Start where ever you want, but just remember, unless you have a broken/stuck thermostat, a new lower temp one isn't going to fix the issue.

Ryan

IROC350TPI

Damn double posts

OUTATIME GTA

iTrader: (2)

220 isn't that bad for a factory operating cooling system, it's just near the limit where the fans should be kicking in at that point to drop it down 10-15*.
If you notice it creeping higher, then you're in more trouble.

However, since you think it was running a few degrees cooler before and of course once you check all the above mentioned basics, a fan switch is an easy fix.
I'm assuming making the coolant changes in your ECM isn't an option for you, so a fan switch would be an easy way to get those fans on 20-25* sooner.

My 'bird has a 180* t-stat and between the JET fan switch and the ECM changes, I never see above 200*. I even add Redline water wetter sometimes too.

I personally would just check for any kinked/damaged coolant lines and flush the radiator depending on when you did that last and make sure to use 50/50.

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (3)

220* is normal for an SBC powered vehicle.

Check your fans, if they're working I'd suggest taking a look at your coolant. See if it's brown and muddy. If it is, flush your system out (easy to do at home), and refill it. Also replace the thermostat.

Sometimes these cars just decide to run hot for a day. My old one did it for some wierd reason. As long as it's not going above about 220, you'll be fine.

vindeezl

iTrader: (2)

Whoa hey there, you bailed on me first

JMJ2003

Well, I have yet to start working on my POS b/c of school and stuff.

But anyways, tonight, again, I drove my b1tch to class, and lo' and behold', when I get home, my freaking engine was steaming. It wasn't smoke, cuz there was no fire. It's never steamed before. And, it was running about 200* tonight... Each night it seems to get a bit hotter than the last. Which is worrying me. I'll get to work this wknd on it, but until than... Where is the thermostat at? LoL.

My radiator was ok. I checked for collasped hoses, none. My overflow tank was ok. The colour of the fluid is still bluish/greenish. I just emptied it and refilled it not too long ago...

Maybe a month-2 months ago cuz I totally ran out of coolant and my lower radiator hose collasped. So I had to run around FresYes at 10 oclock at night to find a freaking hose than had the wiring in it. Than take an hour to figure out how to replace the freaking thing. But I did it.

Ryan, if I decide to go ahead and replace the water pump, do you think you could take some time to come help me? If so, that would be AWESOME!!!!!!!! I'll even help with the work. haha.

How much is involved with replacing the h2o pump? I've never done it and never seen it done. or should I just break out the Haynes manual for this one?

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

if your thermostat is failed, check your upper hose when the engine is hot. is the hose hot? can you squeeze it? if the hose is cold and their doesnt feel like any pressure in it, then blame the thermostat. you run a clutch fan right? or is it electric?

if electric, make sure the fan is on, if clutch driven, same thing, make sure its spinning. is it spinning slower then your used to seeing? also, does get hot while driving or only while moving slow/stopped?

JMJ2003

This morning upon starting work, I found the silver thing disconnected from the filter thing... Would that have anything to do w/ the heat problem? Plus, my air filter is SSOO F'n dirty...

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

nope, that wouldnt have anything to do with it, thats just the crankcase breather.

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

jeeze i almost forgot how crowded the stock engine bay is with all that stuff in there...so its either ur fan/s,thermostat,radiator, or water pump

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (3)

do like travis suggested and feel your top radiator hose. If the thermo is working it'll be hot as **** and there will be pressure in it.

replacing a water pump on a 305 SBC is one of the simplest jobs in the world if you know how to use a ratchet. Don't fear it. Just make sure to pressure test the system before you put all the brackets back on, that way if you **** up the gasket you can redo it before you put everything back together.

vindeezl

iTrader: (2)

Good advice Ton', but if she doesn't have the tool (like most people), just do the gaskets right. I always use RTV.

Elle, WP is EZ! It's only 4 bolts!

It's just the other crap that is in the way which makes it more interesting.

Did you check the "weep hole" of your water pump? Weep holes are a small hole in the casting of the pump (usually under the snout behind the pulley), if it is leaking / dripping from there it means your WP bearing is shot. You can also spin the WP pulley by hand with the belt off. If it makes noise / grinds / falls off, that means its bad too.

JMJ2003

Whelp...

I worked on it a bit today. The only major thing I accomplished is putting some interior pieces back in... And got down right dirty... My favorite.

First, I can say thank you much gentlemen for responding with help! That means alot!

Secondly, I checked the upper radiator hose, yup, it was hot and there was pressure...

Tomorrow, I shall crawl back under and check the h20 pump.

Thanks guys!!

IROC350TPI

I think i can find some time to lend you a hand if need be. It really shouldn't be to difficult. I've changed the one on the IROC twice (crappy remans). Just make sure you check everything else first. Most everything else is the stuff you can get at easily and is cheaper to replace. If all that checks out, lets TEAR IT APART!!!!

Ryan

TMoNeE

iTrader: (1)

my money is on the water pump.. mine died on my 89 too. good news is that its hella easy to replace... is it dripping out the bottom of it at all

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (3)

RTV will do the trick.

I rented a pressure tester from autozone one time, it was free. They just hold a deposit until you bring it back.

jocww

if ur dead set on taking out the tstat dont leave it in and drill holes in it that way you do get pressure. i also agree 220 isnt bad in fact i love my car to run hot better combustion, i should also say i run it hot but keep the intake air cool.

JMJ2003

Alright, I flushed the radiator, and all that crap. Tell ya' one thing, it was fun! Didn't get a whole lot else done due to the fact I've been running around all day. But oh well.

Went ahead and took it out and the temp didn't seem to rise about normal... I'll be keeping an eye on it the next coupla times I drive it, but for once, it didn't rise.

Yay. I also noticed I have an extremely nice oil leak.
Like my ENTIRE undercarriage is coated in oil.

Why is it when I get one thing finished, another thing goes wrong?!?!?

Oh well. I'll be diving back under tomorrow afternoon....

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

fix that oil leak, you know what happened to the other chick around here with an oil leak..

Firebreed

The GTA didnt burn down because of an oil leak, the tranny lines either busted or backed out causeing the fire.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

the tranny line burst.. and what is inside those lines? oil. now slap yourself.

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

OMFG!!!!!!!!!!!

Firebreed

ATF buddy.. ATF..

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (3)

technically it should be ATF, however it is basically another form of oil, and serves the same basic purpose.

nice pic jes rofl

JMJ2003

Ops. I had it wrong.

Hahahahahaha...
It's mud and **** down there... I guess 10 yr's plus build up looks kinda oily to me. Anyways, I threw it on a lift and my cousin about slapped me on the head. He was like, learn to tell the diff. between oil and mud.

Ops.

And, Ellen's FB blew up cuz of a faulty tranny.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

transmissions themselves i do not beleive could blow up. it was the oil in them, or 'fluid' if you prefer. i know im being techinical. but im still right.

JMJ2003

Okay Travis, you're right.