Car problem..
#1
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
Car problem..
Hey guys, I dunno if you guys check out the general engine board, but my cars givin me problems and was wonderin if anyone had any ideas before I just take it to the shop. Heres the thread:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=152164
Thanks in advance.
Andy
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=152164
Thanks in advance.
Andy
#2
I would look into getting a new TPS. Thats one thing I didn't replace but I did adjust. Its around $50. Gotta try the simple things before going to a shop. As far as the fluctuating RPMs when idling or at a stop in gear, its probably related to the IAC which I don't think has ever been replaced before. I think the IAC motor is around $50-75 if you believe that might be the problem.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
Originally posted by xformula79
I would look into getting a new TPS. Thats one thing I didn't replace but I did adjust. Its around $50. Gotta try the simple things before going to a shop. As far as the fluctuating RPMs when idling or at a stop in gear, its probably related to the IAC which I don't think has ever been replaced before. I think the IAC motor is around $50-75 if you believe that might be the problem.
I would look into getting a new TPS. Thats one thing I didn't replace but I did adjust. Its around $50. Gotta try the simple things before going to a shop. As far as the fluctuating RPMs when idling or at a stop in gear, its probably related to the IAC which I don't think has ever been replaced before. I think the IAC motor is around $50-75 if you believe that might be the problem.
Steve- No whistling sounds that I can hear.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
Originally posted by xformula79
...That car has new felpro intake gaskets on it so I don't think a vacuum leak is very probable unless a hose came off or broke.
...That car has new felpro intake gaskets on it so I don't think a vacuum leak is very probable unless a hose came off or broke.
Anyway, I put the TPS on, no luck..
#7
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
update- I put on the MAF that I got with my intake and it improved it a lot. Its idling at 1500 now and the SES light is on, but the bad hesitation is gone. Once in a while it'll hesitate at about 1200, but no where near as bad as before.
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#8
Andy, I like your "matter-of-fact" attitude as if all the sudden you are Mr. King**** car guy. You don't know dick about cars when it comes down to the essentials so quick trying to be so sarcastic when people that have a lot more experience than you try to help you. Also, your recent purchase of the Lt1 intake and the fact that you want to put 24lb injectors on an otherwise stock engine just displays the fact that you really don't have a clue about engine parts combos.
PS - You should quit quoting everything that everyone says, its really not necessary when you are going back and forth with 2 people.
PS - You should quit quoting everything that everyone says, its really not necessary when you are going back and forth with 2 people.
#9
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
Originally posted by xformula79
Andy, I like your "matter-of-fact" attitude as if all the sudden you are Mr. King**** car guy. You don't know dick about cars when it comes down to the essentials so quick trying to be so sarcastic when people that have a lot more experience than you try to help you. Also, your recent purchase of the Lt1 intake and the fact that you want to put 24lb injectors on an otherwise stock engine just displays the fact that you really don't have a clue about engine parts combos.
PS - You should quit quoting everything that everyone says, its really not necessary when you are going back and forth with 2 people.
Andy, I like your "matter-of-fact" attitude as if all the sudden you are Mr. King**** car guy. You don't know dick about cars when it comes down to the essentials so quick trying to be so sarcastic when people that have a lot more experience than you try to help you. Also, your recent purchase of the Lt1 intake and the fact that you want to put 24lb injectors on an otherwise stock engine just displays the fact that you really don't have a clue about engine parts combos.
PS - You should quit quoting everything that everyone says, its really not necessary when you are going back and forth with 2 people.
If I hadn't replaced the intake gaskets this spring cause you did a ****ty job replacing them when you did it, a vaccuum leak would be a likely problem.
#10
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Andy,
a shop can test your IAC to see if it's bad or not. I know there's a piece of equipment that my college has that has a **** on it that you turn and will fluctuate the IAC. The 13th I go back if you want to test it out. Also, I can scan your codes for you if needed as well.
Do you still want to watch me tear down those heads and rebuild them as well??
Steve
a shop can test your IAC to see if it's bad or not. I know there's a piece of equipment that my college has that has a **** on it that you turn and will fluctuate the IAC. The 13th I go back if you want to test it out. Also, I can scan your codes for you if needed as well.
Do you still want to watch me tear down those heads and rebuild them as well??
Steve
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
The 13th is my last day... if the car is still running as it is now I can bring it in to MVCC to test the IAC and get codes.
And I dunno if I have free time for the head rebuild, but if I do I'm still interested. Thanks for helping me learn, rather than bragging that you know all and I know ****.
And I dunno if I have free time for the head rebuild, but if I do I'm still interested. Thanks for helping me learn, rather than bragging that you know all and I know ****.
#13
So Andy, you, in your infinite wisdom is the self-proclaimed judge of repair work. You haven't got the slightest idea.I did a lot more f*cking work to that car than what you know. Besides that, I don't need to prove myself because I been working on cars since you were riding around on your Schwinn. You f*cked that car up worse than anything else so don't go pointing fingers (which I knew you were doing right from the start). That is why I ot pissed. Believe me Junior, any work that you have done to that car is 10 times more likely to fail than mine. We can compare work when I show up in my 88 Formula that i basically restored in 4 months, or perhaps in little while when I finish my 79 TA frame-off project. Don't blame sh*t. Your just a rook.
PS - A vacuum leak at the intake is totally irrevelevant to an oil leak.
PS - A vacuum leak at the intake is totally irrevelevant to an oil leak.
Last edited by xformula79; 01-03-2003 at 03:47 PM.
#14
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
My dad was a mechanic for years. When he saw the gasket you put on there, he couldn't believe you used that ****.
I'm not blaming this problem on you at all. Cars have problems, big deal. By posting this, I wasn't pointing fingers right from the start as you think. I posted it to get advice because I don't know what the problem is. If you wanna get all pissy about it, fine. So I don't know a lot about cars? Maybe thats cause I've only had a car for two years. I can do a more complex math problem than a 6th grader can, should I go **** with him cause he's a "rook"? Grow up.
I'm not blaming this problem on you at all. Cars have problems, big deal. By posting this, I wasn't pointing fingers right from the start as you think. I posted it to get advice because I don't know what the problem is. If you wanna get all pissy about it, fine. So I don't know a lot about cars? Maybe thats cause I've only had a car for two years. I can do a more complex math problem than a 6th grader can, should I go **** with him cause he's a "rook"? Grow up.
#15
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xformula---i'm not trying to start anything, but how did you do a frame off on a 79 ta when they didn't have a complete frame. It is not like pulling a truck frame and separating the body from a full frame. That car is a unibody. Just wondering how you did it? Did you tie the frame first and then separate it? How did the body hold up considering it used the frame for most of it's support? Do you have some pics of it? I have been a long time fan of the second gens and would love to see it.
#16
xpndbl3, a second gen car is more like a Nova than third gen F-body because the front subframe section detaches from the rest of the body. You are right in the fact that it is a uni-body car because it doesn't have a true full frame. I had to build a custom body stand for the rest of the shell.
Andy, Grow up?... hmm. Being grown has nothing at all to do with getting pissed at someone's attitude.
Andy, Grow up?... hmm. Being grown has nothing at all to do with getting pissed at someone's attitude.
#17
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
But there was no attitude. What did I say that you thought I said with an attitude? When I said I had no luck after replacing the TPS?
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Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Originally posted by MetalliCamaroRS
But there was no attitude. What did I say that you thought I said with an attitude? When I said I had no luck after replacing the TPS?
But there was no attitude. What did I say that you thought I said with an attitude? When I said I had no luck after replacing the TPS?
I don't see any place that you got cocky or bitchy.
Based on xformula79's comment .....
"matter-of-fact" attitude
In your post just before he started getting pissy, you said ....
I put on the MAF
That's the only place I can see where the confusion would be.
#19
AJ, that MAF reference was pretty gay. I think its best if you stayed out of this. Anyway, it was his response to me stating that the gaskets were new is what seemed a bit cocky.
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Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Originally posted by xformula79
AJ, that MAF reference was pretty gay. I think its best if you stayed out of this. Anyway, it was his response to me stating that the gaskets were new is what seemed a bit cocky.
AJ, that MAF reference was pretty gay. I think its best if you stayed out of this. Anyway, it was his response to me stating that the gaskets were new is what seemed a bit cocky.
As far as I could tell that's the only place I could see where you were talking about him being "cocky".
And why couldn't you simply say that to him in the first place and remove all confusion?
One more thing... if you think it's best if I "stayed out of this", then why are you posting it (as well as getting defensive) on a PUBLIC internet message board?
Now..... calm down and ask Andy if that's what he was implying instead of jumping down his throat for something you "assume" he did. OK?
#21
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
Well, when I said that I didn't mean it in a cocky way at all, but now that you mention it I can see how it can be inferred and I apologize for that.
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Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: Vortec 355
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: GM Axles and GM 3.73
i would just like to add that i hope that this doesnt affect the outcome at denny's party on memorial weekend...........
#23
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5- manual five speed
dirty IAC
just out of curiousity did u get your hesitation problem fixed, was it a dirty IAC? because it sounds like thats what it is
#24
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Car: 87 gta
Engine: 5.7 ltr
Transmission: full race 700r4
if you want to know what codes you have for the engine light just take a paper clip make a u shape out of it. then with the key OFF
put the paper clip in the two spots of the data connector that are at the top right side one is closest to the end the other is right next to it. turn the key to the on possition the light will start to flash. count the flashes example --- -- code 32 egr system failure
the first code is code 12 - -- system check it will flash that code three times then all other stored codes. any questions just private message me.
ps you are not that far from me so if help is needed i have been a gm tech for 12 years
put the paper clip in the two spots of the data connector that are at the top right side one is closest to the end the other is right next to it. turn the key to the on possition the light will start to flash. count the flashes example --- -- code 32 egr system failure
the first code is code 12 - -- system check it will flash that code three times then all other stored codes. any questions just private message me.
ps you are not that far from me so if help is needed i have been a gm tech for 12 years
#25
Hey AJ, quit trying to act like you are the the mediator of reasonable conversation here because the sh*t that you were saying in Andy's defense was among the stupidest things I have ever heard. I am calm, but I will not tolerate people getting an attitude with me. IfAndy did not mean it in the way that I thought he did, I appologize for going offabout it. AJ, you would not really understand what is going on here unless you knew the circumstances. Which I doubt you knew that I sold that car to Andy and also did a lot of work on it while I owned it. What Andy said in his reply seemed like a personal attack that is why I went off. This is why I said is best if you stay out of it because you don't know the story so you could not provide an unbiased opinion. I guess I got outta line talking about what Andy knows or whatever because I realize that he is a little new to it, but it was because I got mad that I thought he was trying to put me or my work down when I got on this post to help. So anyhow I am done talking about it. Andy hope you get it fixed back to normal cuz that is a good car.
#26
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
Its all crazy now, sometimes its almost back to normal, sometimes it stutters a little, and the other day it died in my driveway .
So far I've replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, MAF, TPS, and fuel filter, so the last suggestion that I haven't tried is the IAC.
And me and my car will be at Denny's on Memorial Day weekend as long as everything works fine after the intake install.
And Matt- I know what you mean and I honestly didn't mean to attack you or the work you did on the car. Its been a long week and I've been in a bad mood anyway so that also didn't help. I appreciate your help.
I ran the codes and got:
22: Low voltage at TPS or Fuel Cutoff Relay circuit open or shorted to ground
33: High voltage (low vacuum) at MAF Sensor
So far I've replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, MAF, TPS, and fuel filter, so the last suggestion that I haven't tried is the IAC.
And me and my car will be at Denny's on Memorial Day weekend as long as everything works fine after the intake install.
And Matt- I know what you mean and I honestly didn't mean to attack you or the work you did on the car. Its been a long week and I've been in a bad mood anyway so that also didn't help. I appreciate your help.
I ran the codes and got:
22: Low voltage at TPS or Fuel Cutoff Relay circuit open or shorted to ground
33: High voltage (low vacuum) at MAF Sensor
Last edited by MetalliCamaroRS; 01-05-2003 at 05:03 PM.
#28
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5- manual five speed
im not an expert but i think the best thing to do before replacing any more stuff is to try and get acess to a scope and hook up to the TPS and MAF. if you have the key on engine off you can check the pattern on the scope for a TPS and it should be smooth and in a certain voltage range. Im not sure about a MAF check. i think you have to hook up a scope to it and with it running throttle it and compare the voltage to standard voltage for your engine and year of car.
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Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Originally posted by xformula79
Hey AJ, quit trying to act like you are the the mediator of reasonable conversation here because the sh*t that you were saying in Andy's defense was among the stupidest things I have ever heard.
Hey AJ, quit trying to act like you are the the mediator of reasonable conversation here because the sh*t that you were saying in Andy's defense was among the stupidest things I have ever heard.
If that's what "stupid" is...... then I'm all for it.
BTW, Please don't critisize what I said. You seem to have a knack for doing that. What's the purpose of it? You're going to critisize me for wanting to help?
I already pointed out "As far as I could tell that's the only place I could see where you were talking about him being "cocky"."
I was only trying to resolve the issue. Now how about you and I do the same thing.
#30
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
Went to Autozone... the guy told me his van had the same problem and it was his fuel pump... anyone think that could be it?
#31
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Andy,
hmmm well you can hook up a fuel pressure guage off your schrader valve and see what's the pressure is like. Although, you have narrowed down a lot of the stuff that it can't be since you have already replaced a lot. Have you timed it after you did the cap and rotor as well?
Not saying that the timing would cause all these problems, but it should be checked anyways.
hmmm well you can hook up a fuel pressure guage off your schrader valve and see what's the pressure is like. Although, you have narrowed down a lot of the stuff that it can't be since you have already replaced a lot. Have you timed it after you did the cap and rotor as well?
Not saying that the timing would cause all these problems, but it should be checked anyways.
#32
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Car: 92RS 25th Anniv./88 IROC Z28 Vert
Engine: 305 TBI w/Tpi Air / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4/700r4
Axle/Gears: Posi
Well this has been some interesting reading.
Remember it is so easy to humiliate, critique, hate, belittle, frown, fight, pout, misunderstand, be pissed, etc. It is a lot harder to get along and work together. I am glad everyone worked out their differences on Andy's car(which by the way is a sweet car even if it's a little broke right now) so I can come to Denny's on Memorial Day and marvel at everyones beautiful cars. And I promise not to ask anyone how much knowledge they have because evryone will be smarter than me.
Now in the imortal words of Rodney King, "Can't we all just get along."
Remember it is so easy to humiliate, critique, hate, belittle, frown, fight, pout, misunderstand, be pissed, etc. It is a lot harder to get along and work together. I am glad everyone worked out their differences on Andy's car(which by the way is a sweet car even if it's a little broke right now) so I can come to Denny's on Memorial Day and marvel at everyones beautiful cars. And I promise not to ask anyone how much knowledge they have because evryone will be smarter than me.
Now in the imortal words of Rodney King, "Can't we all just get along."
Last edited by 86NiteRider; 01-08-2003 at 09:57 AM.
#33
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Car: 2004 Chevy Avalanche
Engine: Some that run, some that don't
Transmission: 700R4's, a T-5, and a Turbo 350
Originally posted by 86NiteRider
"Can't we all just get along."
"Can't we all just get along."
#35
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are you sure you set the TPS to the right place? voltage should be .062, correct me someone if im wrong. and when my car was stalling and had bad hesitation i replaced the EGR, it wasnt holding any vacuum, you can test it by squeezing in the diaphragm and putting your finger over the vacuum connection and if the diaphragm goes back to place then its bad and if it holds the pressure it should be good. back to the TPS, one code could be causing the other, if your TPS is set wrong the engine might be thinking the throttle is more open or closed than it really is and comparing the false throttle position with the low amount of air coming in through the MAF and setting both codes. i hope i explained that good enough, iknow it sounds kinda confusing.
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I had a similar problem for awhile, and i tried most of the electrical stuff, and it improved a little, but the stuttering and dying out problem came down to a bad injector. It ran great after we replaced the bad injector, but did start the engine bay on fire by playing around with the injector out of the intake....
Your problem could be something completely different though.....can never tell with these damn computer controlled cars!
Your problem could be something completely different though.....can never tell with these damn computer controlled cars!
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hey Jeff1367, youre from oak lawn? im right over by archer and central, this summer we should meet up sometime maybe head up to the races off 94 and stony cause i usually go with a couple of guys from the neighborhood every now and then.
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87TA 305TPI: That would be great! We are actually racing at the place you are talking about right now, although its mostly ****, because all the good stuff is put away! I hang out with a few guys with 3rd gens, and a few really fast cars, PM me about this.....I'm always up for meeting new people, and over the summer I'm hanging out at different race spots pretty much every day.
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Car: 1994 Jeep Wrangler
so you havent checked the IAC yet? its pretty EZ to check if it is gunked up w/ **** or not. and if it is you don't necessarily need to buy a new one.... it can be disassebled and cleaned. hey denny... any keg is fine as long as its not miller my car will be there even if its got a gay 3rd break light now
i hope more people show this time too.
i hope more people show this time too.
#42
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It's all coming together now.. I can see why Brad made the user agreement post. People around here crying and whining like little schoolgirls. Get it together people we're all on the same team.
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#43
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
No gunking on the IAC I could see. The fuel pressure is at 28-30 PSI at idle and drops when I give it gas so I bought a new fuel pump and it should be here this week.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
Alright, I put the new fuel pump in and it eliminated the stuttering. Also, fuel pressure is back up at about 42 PSI. Its still idling at like 1000. I put the IAC valve I had on the LT1 TB, no luck. So I just adjusted min. air and left the IAC disconnected for now.
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