Anyone installed lines locks on their F-body?
#1
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Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: Jasper 700R4 Stage II
Axle/Gears: 3.23 For Now
Anyone installed lines locks on their F-body?
I saw that SLP makes a kit for the 87-92 F-bodys and was curious to see if anyone has installed a line-lock kit before http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_757052_-1
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5 manual
I saw that SLP makes a kit for the 87-92 F-bodys and was curious to see if anyone has installed a line-lock kit before http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_757052_-1
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Car: 91 Z-28
Engine: 420 sbc
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt/4.10 gears
What up Shawn,
I put the SLP line lock kit on my RS about a year and a half ago. If you ever would have came to Muncie Dragway I would have shown you. The biggest pain of the install is getting those self tapping screws through the sheet metal. Then you have to bleed the brakes which always sucks.
I put the SLP line lock kit on my RS about a year and a half ago. If you ever would have came to Muncie Dragway I would have shown you. The biggest pain of the install is getting those self tapping screws through the sheet metal. Then you have to bleed the brakes which always sucks.
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5 manual
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Car: A Portly 85 Z28
Engine: 4.530 X 4.250 BBC
Transmission: under rated for this application
Axle/Gears: also under rated
I found adapters for the stock third gen master outlets, they converted everything to std sae lines. I`m thinking of going manual brakes here shortly, I can keep them adapters if your planning to install a lock soon.
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Car: A Portly 85 Z28
Engine: 4.530 X 4.250 BBC
Transmission: under rated for this application
Axle/Gears: also under rated
I`ll keep `em for you. the outlet and inlet of the lock is 1/8 npt so if you wanted to connect your stock prop valve in there yes, you would need another adapter but those are easy to find, the master cyl metric line adapters took me about 7 different parts stores selections to find the right two I needed. I have a tube K member so all my front lines were re done into std 3/16 line that you can find at any auto part store. If your putting a lock in I`d suggest an adjustable prop valve instead of the stock pos
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Yea I might just swap out the prop. valve for a wilwood down the road. Got some up close pics of your setup? Also how'd you run the 3/16" SAE fittings into the rubber brake hoses at either front end, if you have metric rubber brake lines? Or did you just run a metric fitting on the SAE 3/16" line?
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Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: broken 385sbc
Transmission: G-Force rebuilt T-5
Axle/Gears: Currie 9" Ford 4.30:1
i got a hurst line lock.. no installation kit.. just some fittings and 3 hardlines from Napa Auto.. works like a charm..
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Car: A Portly 85 Z28
Engine: 4.530 X 4.250 BBC
Transmission: under rated for this application
Axle/Gears: also under rated
I`ll take some pictures tonight, it turned out nice & clean, I used the bracket for the stock prop valve to support the adj valve and the line lock.
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: Alky 360
Transmission: TH400, Freakshow 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.71
I came up with the adapters at a CarQuest parts store. I just told him what I was needing, he went through his book and found what I was needing, he didn't have any in stock, but was able to order them up for me. Unfortunately most parts stores now are so computer operated that if they can't look it up on the computer they are helpless, this is still the old style parts store with all of the books still out on the counter. It doesn't hurt that the guy looking up all of the stuff for me is a long time old school hot rod guy.
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Car: 92 camaro Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
On the brake lines you can look at slp’s web site and see that they use the metric bubble flare on one end and a standard double flare on the end that goes into the line lock. You can make them by cutting off one end of a metric line and using a 3/16-flare end on the other using a double flaring tool
#22
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I have one, took me about 2 hours or so. Been working great for about a year or so. Press down the brakes and hit the switch, let off the brakes and front wheels are locked down. Much better than trying to hold the brakes and get the burnout going, less stress on everything.
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I've got the biondo one on a shelf in my garage, gotta install that yet...
I guess the only good thing about having the very first 3rd gen (before they fixed all the inherent problems) is I still have all SAE brake parts on it.
The biondo used 1/8" NPT as well. Apparently having dual in/outs is better than the single, like the biondo.
I guess the only good thing about having the very first 3rd gen (before they fixed all the inherent problems) is I still have all SAE brake parts on it.
The biondo used 1/8" NPT as well. Apparently having dual in/outs is better than the single, like the biondo.
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