85SILVERBULLET1

Well i finally got the motor put together and hopefully i am going to get it stabed and started. i am pretty stoked that it is going to run again. the car has not run in over a year. I have had the car for 4 years and i have only put 200 miles on it total. I am really ready to play with this everlasting project. Anyway here is the combo: 383 sbc, eagle h-beam rods, eagle 4340 stroker crank, comp solid roller (242-252 @ 50 616-618 lift), endure x lifters, full milodon oiling system, dart pro 1 aluminum heads (215 intake runner 205/160 valves) harland sharp roller rockers, stud girdles, vic jr single plane intake with 1/2 inch spacer, holly 700 dp, msd ignition. the car has an 8 point cage with subframe connectors. it is gutted with kirkey seats. i am hoping that the car will weigh 3400 to 3600 pounds soaking wet. the machinest thinks that the combo should be close to 550 hp at the flywheel and if that is accurate i should be able to make 650 at the rear wheels with nitrous. I would like to run 11s at altitude (5000 + feet) well at minimum i want to get a little drive time and that is soon.

85SILVERBULLET1

Well i got the motor stabbed friday and i got all of the mechanical complete saturday and sunday i got the wiring and final stuff complete. i fired it off at about 7:30 pm and i drove it around the block with my wife. the motor sounds pretty healthy and it runs 100% better than the last motor(flat cam) i really didnt get on it to hard because its a new motor and it was raining but i did stand on it to 6200 rpm (recall tach) and it pulled like a big dog. I have a feeling it going to run pretty strong esp after i get the carb tuned and get the final timing in.

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

Power sounds about right. You will need good tuning.

85SILVERBULLET1

any guesses as to what final timing should be at?

izcain

Without having timing set I dont think I would be doing to many of those High rpm runs lol. Anyways. It all depends on your combo. You could dial it to a nats *** on the Dyno, I would like to see some numbers for the beast!

85SILVERBULLET1

it was and is set at 12 deg initial. my question is on final advance. i have heard that all the way up to 42 deg final is acceptable. just looking for some advise.

BT283

iTrader: (3)

We usually set engines at 34 degrees total, but that is just us, kinda on the safe side, ya know

85SILVERBULLET1

altitude really plays a big part in timing as i am finding out. my set-up hates 12 deg initial. in fact it has no throttle response and it likes to spit out of the carb. I have been messing with the timing all week and it is really starting to wear on me. yesterday i finally decided to skip initial and went ahead and set up advance with mechanical and vacum total. the machinest had me set up the advance at 2000k and have the total set at 40 deg. after i did this the car really came to life. It really freaks me out because i would be willing to bet that the initial is around 20 deg(i ran out of time to check initial) and that seems like a lot. timing is really tricky because it is hard to tell if its timing or carb issues. anyway i drove the car around the block and i cant hear or feel any pinging and the throttle response is way better. It would not supprise me to see that the car wants more timing. I really need to get the car on the dyno and get someone there who has good tuning experience but i do need to get it close so my dyno time can be cut down.

327???

with that much cam it's gonna want 20 or more, you'll probably have to limit the total advance.

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't get freaked out by that much initial. Heck I have mine locked in at 38 usually. Right now it's at 34, playing it safe since I just bumped the compression up to 10.5:1 and it's running on 89 octane.

85SILVERBULLET1

I checked initial timing last night and it was at 30 deg with the vacume hooked up. that really seems like a lot. I hooked up my air fuel ratio gauge and went for a test drive last night and the car really feels pretty good with the timing where it is at. I didnt hear any pinging or feel any preignition problems but the carb is extremly rich. I am really confused as to why the car runs ok with this kind of timing with no pre ignition. I am curious as to what would happen with timing readings on the balancer if i moved the starting plug wire one way to the left or the right(#1) would that change the initial advance setting as far as the way the engine runs at 12deg initial. or is it relative on the dist. cap based on TDC.
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you have initial set at 34 deg. is that with vac advance and mechanical. what does your total look like?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

you check timing with the vacuum disconnected. usually when you lock out timing then it does not move and there is no vacuum or mech. advance. I run 32-34 degrees timing locked out all the time.

BT283

iTrader: (3)

one more for just locking it out. its so much easier

85SILVERBULLET1

so you guys are saying to lock out the vacum advance? so should i set it at 36 initial or what rpm should i set this advance at? How do you "lock out" a pertronix hei dist.

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

When we say "locked out" the timing does not change for us at all. We don't use mechanical or vacuum advance. When we set it at 36 degrees, it stays at 36 degrees no matter what RPM.

85SILVERBULLET1

so how do you set an hei dist like that. or do you haqve to buy an msd set-up. also this is still a street car so is that going to be a problem?

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

My guess is a bit of welding unless there's a lockout plate you can get.

85SILVERBULLET1

interesting. i am still a little confused???

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

call up a local speed shop and they'll point you in the right direction for all this timing stuff. They probably know someone who can weld it for you or weld up some of the advance slots so that you can run 20-ish initial and 34-38 total depending on what the motor likes

85SILVERBULLET1

well i got the car on the dyno this weekend and made a couple of pulls. the first pull on the dyno we only spun it up to 4200 rpm and then shut it down due to a lean condition. the car made 303 hp at the rear wheels and the torque reading was all over the place so i couldnt get an accurate reading. we bumped up the jets on the primaries from a 68 to a 72 and on the rear from a 72 to a 76. we made a second pull and the air fuel ratio was just about optimal we spun the motor up to 6000 rpm this time and then shut it down due to a spike in the spark and detonation. this time it made 338 at the rear wheels and the torque reading was still not there. this time i went and checked timing and we came to the conclusion that the pertronics dist. is a piece of sh#$. the distributer with the vacume blocked of was acting really funny. reved up it had 55 plus deg of timing. as you reved the engine it would retard 10-15 deg and then it would jump around 55 plus deg of advance. With the timing like this that would explain the fall off after 6k rpm. The dyno really will open your eyes up to what is going on. I could not tell by driving the veh that there was any kind of detonation happening because of how loud the exhaust is. I have some things that i am going to change before i do any more dyno tuning and that will include : msd dist(with lock out advance, msd 6al, blaster 2 coil, msd 8.5 wires, msd timing control, 1 3/4 hooker long tube headers, 3" flow master super 40s with dumps, and a larger carb. I am hoping to be able to make 400 hp to the rear wheels. I have heard some of you guys talk about holly hp carbs what do you drag race guys recomend? this is still a street car but not an everyday driver.