TPI-Formula350-

I'm wondering what oil you guys run in your track cars? I currently have castrol 10-40 in my car but when it gets hot at idle,800 rpms the oil pressure is only 18 psi. I'd like to goto a heavier synthetic.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

what are your bearing clearances? what did your engine builder recommend you run? Could run brad penn 25w50 if they are that loose. Of course 10psi per 1000 rpm is still a-ok

J91

I run 20w50 Castrol GTX usually, but go w/ what your engine builder recomends, my clearances are loose, so the heavy oil works well....

TPI-Formula350-

I'm looking at the build sheet for clearances, I guess I'll give the builder a call

RODS-STD
1)0025
2)0025
3)0024
4)0024
5)0024
6)0021
7)0023
8)0022

MAINS-STD
0023, 0030, 0026, 0028, 0022

END PL. .005

SIDE PL.
1-2 014
3-4 016
5-6 015
7-8 016

TPI-Formula350-

UPDATE:
spoke to my engine builder and he recommended, Joe Gibbs 15-50

BlueBeast

Valvoline 20w-50 race oil silver bottle.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

First, a heavier oil is at best a bandaid to the real issue.

Second, I don't understand why builders continue to put engines together for thick oils. It isn't necessary, and it slows you down.

Third, I don't understand why anyone would use any petroleum-based lubricant these days.

That is all. It's all I can do to keep myself from on the monthly "best oil" threads.

TPI-Formula350-

[QUOTE=five7kid;5052231]First, a heavier oil is at best a bandaid to the real issue.

Second, I don't understand why builders continue to put engines together for thick oils. It isn't necessary, and it slows you down.

I didnt say I think I have an issue, 10 psi of oil pressure is fine for every 1000 rpms. Engine builders will build an engine looser because they make more power. If I can't find Joe Gibbs I'll probably go with Mobile 1 synthetic in 15-50

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

X2


It's called Valvoline VR1 Race oil. 20w-50. It "supposely has the Zinc additive. How much, who knows?

Shagwell

I'm actually complete opposite of everything you said.

I run .0025-.0032 on mains and steel rods, .0032-.004 on alum rods. I run a minimum of straight 30 oil for race apps, Rotella 15w40 for street stuff. - Try running tighter clearances and thinner oil with north of 750ish hp and get back to me on how well it works out for ya. I'll give ya hint, you will get tired of changing the bearings every 3-4 passes. I carry that on over to lesser builds, as I'd much rather give up 1-2hp than to have issues with thinner oil.

I won't run synthetic oil if it were given to me. Without going into a page-long tirad of detail, I've had numerous ring seal issues, cams going flat, bearing problems(RP is total junk) and transmission slippage that was all directly traced back to the synthetic oil(Mobile, RP, Harley's Screamin Eagle, etc).


I do aggree with you fully on the "best oil" threads. - Find a product that you're happy with and stick with it. Everyone has their own opinions, I just base mine off of first hand knowledge, not what the side of the bottle or what some random internet poster is spewing.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

the nascar boys keep their junk together (for the most part) with tight clearances and lighter oils. ~800+ at the wheels out of a 358 sbc turning 9k.


but they arent bombing their stuff with nitrous at 3k rpms, either.

i've been running royal purple in my LT1, and it seems to still be holding up. havent pulled it apart since i built it about 3 years ago. havent changed the oil in 3 years, either. ha ha ha! my next oil will probably be the brad penn. they say its sticky icky and clings to everything very well. im down with that.

88gta3508

you can't just toss in heavy oil without building the extra clearance in your bearings

Shagwell

...you do realize the nascar boys run roller bearings right?

That said, you are correct about there being a big difference in an engine that gets launched and sees various rpm levels vs one that gets buzzed up and sits within an 1k rpm window.

I like the Penn stuff. It's the new rendition of what used-to be the Kendal GT1 oils.

Shagwell

It should also be noted in here that cam bearings play a major role in total system oil pressure. - Seen a lot of rebuilds where they either didn't get swapped because they looked good, or they got swapped for some cheapy off-brands. Either way if the cam is overly loose it will drop a lot of oil pressure.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I like synthetics because they can handle a higher heat load. Running all my oil thru 2 700+ deg turbines tends to heat things up. I've run 10w30 and 15w40's in my setup. Seems to work well.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The OP is a bit shy of 750ish HP.

Then you aren't using the right stuff. The off-the-shelf daily driver oils don't have the correct additives. Their ATF's are likewise lacking, except they have unneeded additives for race built transmissions.

With flat tappet cams, no less. You can be sure they aren't using the oil their sponsor sells at Walmart.

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

With flat tappet cams, no less. You can be sure they aren't using the oil their sponsor sells at Walmart.[/QUOTE]

what sponor is that?

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

With flat tappet cams, no less. You can be sure they aren't using the oil their sponsor sells at Walmart.

sorry

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

yessir. but pretty much all the other bearings are standard type stuff. on the rods, they dont use bushings in the small end like most of what we would run. the wrist pin runs directly in the machined hole in the rod.
but back to the main/rod clearances... nascar engine builders run em tight.

gtpro700

I got my bottom end from someone and I dont know the clearances I have. I run 10w40 synthetic right now but after the motor heats up and I beat on it a little at idle it will dip down to 12-15 psi at times(possibly even lower). Not sure if the gauge is inaccurate or I might be better off running a thicker oil. Is that a bandaid? maybe but like I said I dont know the clearances on the motor. The car is a street car also if that helps. The car runs clean with no smoke coming out of the exhaust and sounds strong just wondering if going to a 15w40 or something would be better for street driving where the motor gets hot. Oh yea its bored .060 over too but isnt really an issue with the fans keeping everythign in check. Would it hurt anything by going to a thicker oil as well? Thanks for the advice.

Shagwell

As noted towards the top, reccomended oil pressure is 10psi per 1k rpm. With a typical idle rpm below 1k, 10-15psi oil that rises quickly with the rpm is just fine.


I just can't justify synthetics myself. Parts store junk stuff aside, I'm not giving over $10 per qrt for an oil that will still be changed either within 3k miles or after a single race weekend. - I've pulled 400-500hp street sbc's and 500-600hp street bbc's down that had over well 100k miles on them w/ Rotella their entire lives and still had grey on the bearings and clean walls. Why pay over twice as much if I don't get any more out of it?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

i agree with this guy! although i am guilty of buying some synthetics for my car since that's OEM recommended oil when it's on sale, but a $35 oil change after race weekend is the cheapest part of the trip.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

no joke, i probably have over 100 passes on my oil. im just going to keep rollin' with it till im done with this engine. still just barely has some black to it now.
i also have been re-using my gear oil when i swap gears or whatever. guy i work with calls me frugal.

gtpro700

I will have to watch my oil pressure a little closer next time because I still have the factory needle gauge for that and can be a pain to actually get the correct reading from it. If it is dipping below 10 psi at idle after it is hot would it hurt to go to a 20w-50 weight?

92 CaMaRo Rs

X3


I always use this oil in my race car.

Shagwell

...remember, I run methanol in race stuff. No chance of getting more than one good weekend out of any oil. - Street stuff I just change whenever it starts showing color(darkening).

I re-use head gaskets.........seriously. Copper and MLS are no-brainers(if they aren't hurt, put them back), but we silver spray-paint composites; never had a leak, and re-use them anytime they come off clean w/o tearing.

BlueBeast

Thats it thanks. Its been a long time since I had to change oil in the car since the motor is out.

gtpro700

For the guys running the valvoline 20w-50 are you running that on the street as well? Would that be fine in different climates because I drive my car in 90 degree weather and 30 degree weather as long as it is not snowing. Thanks

stroken85z

im no expert but that is what i run and i would not run it if i drove in cold weather too thick for start up,it would take longer for the oil to heat up and thin out

stroken85z

and yes i run that on street or strip,again i do not drive my car when its cold if its under 45 or so my car is parked

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

i've raced in 35 degree weather at shadyside a few times. lol

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

As long as you warm up the car, it should run fine in the cold. I beat on my twin turbo car in the november air before storing for winter the first year. Turbos heat that oil up in a hurry

gtpro700

Orr or diggler when you ran your car in those cold weathers it was not a 20w-50 or was it? I think you guys mentioned 10w-40 weight. Im running 10w-40 right now and possibly am thinking of going to the valvoline race oil that is 20w-50 but I plan on running my car on the street until the first snow storm then it is done but it will probably see some 30 degree nights. Is that ok with a thicker 20w-50 weight though?

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

mine is built with factory tolerances. i run 10w30 royal purple. i always let it warm up before making any passes.

z 28 jari

iTrader: (1)

Oil lab test: http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=28365

Shagwell

^ the thing I don't understand(whether it be good or bad) is why you would want to have more detergents/additives in the oil. The total "anti-wear" properties I understand, but extra detergents and misc additives I don't. - The more detergents/fillers, the easier it is to polute and break down under stress.

TPI-Formula350-

I ended up going with Amsoil Z Rod 20w-50 synthetic with zinc