Best brand Camaro Subframe Connectors? (IROC Z)
#1
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Best brand Camaro Subframe Connectors? (IROC Z)
I want to get some weld in subframe connectors for my 1990 IROC-Z. I was wondering which brand is really good. I have been looking at a kit from Southside Machine that includes the connectors, lift bars and a driveshaft safety loop. Anybody running this setup?
#2
please search first
i can see you must be fairly new to the forum, either that or you just read and don't post much...
anyway, you really should do a search on this, there is TONS of infomation on subframe connectors.... all you have to do is search for subframe or sub frame or best prob. SFC and you will get alot of reading.....
tj
anyway, you really should do a search on this, there is TONS of infomation on subframe connectors.... all you have to do is search for subframe or sub frame or best prob. SFC and you will get alot of reading.....
tj
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: L03 for now......
Transmission: 700R4 for now.......
ANY subframe connector would be the best. they all pretty much do the same thing, just dont get bolt in ones. i have the spohn tubular ones and i absolutely love them.
#7
I have the Jeg's subframe connectors in my car now.
They are bolt on. Since I'm only running a V6, I will
put some welds to them after the V8/T-56 swap,
if needed. Jeg's SFCs are thicker, longer, and stronger
than any other SFC on the market. But, they are bolt
in, maybe it makes up for it. They actually look like
a frame! Not just tubes running down the sides.
On another note: My friend had purchased the SLP
"double diamond" SFCs for his modded 1998 LS1 T/A.
They are also bolt in. He's running a dyno tested
348hp - 354ft. lbs. at the rear wheels. He hasn't had
any problems with them yet! And he beats the living
sh it out the car!!!
They are bolt on. Since I'm only running a V6, I will
put some welds to them after the V8/T-56 swap,
if needed. Jeg's SFCs are thicker, longer, and stronger
than any other SFC on the market. But, they are bolt
in, maybe it makes up for it. They actually look like
a frame! Not just tubes running down the sides.
On another note: My friend had purchased the SLP
"double diamond" SFCs for his modded 1998 LS1 T/A.
They are also bolt in. He's running a dyno tested
348hp - 354ft. lbs. at the rear wheels. He hasn't had
any problems with them yet! And he beats the living
sh it out the car!!!
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#11
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Car: 89 Formula 350
Engine: Forged 385 H/C/I
Transmission: 700R4-4300 Stall-lockup
Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt 3:70
i have the SSM weld in there very nice but not very easy to weld in . they weld in at a few points under the car, but its hard to weld up the thin metal by the rocker panel to the thick metal on the subs.
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Bolts can be stronger than welds but either one will really help.
Id explore under the carpet before hand. If you really want to have a well stiffened car.
I had a perferct floor pan from under neith. Matter of fact the whole car looked factory new from the under side.
THen once the carpet was removed a whole ball of ear waz emerged.A weeks worth of cleaning, scrubin, grindin and welding.
It alone made the whole car stiff and better. i did also weld all the body seams along the rocker and everwhere I could see.
After that it really made a difference. Car was much stiffer and it rode better. It was kinda like after I added my strut tower brace. The car felt even more attached to rails.
I then boxed my LCA's and panhard bar. Didn't notice much.
Subframes are next.
Matt
Id explore under the carpet before hand. If you really want to have a well stiffened car.
I had a perferct floor pan from under neith. Matter of fact the whole car looked factory new from the under side.
THen once the carpet was removed a whole ball of ear waz emerged.A weeks worth of cleaning, scrubin, grindin and welding.
It alone made the whole car stiff and better. i did also weld all the body seams along the rocker and everwhere I could see.
After that it really made a difference. Car was much stiffer and it rode better. It was kinda like after I added my strut tower brace. The car felt even more attached to rails.
I then boxed my LCA's and panhard bar. Didn't notice much.
Subframes are next.
Matt
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Car: 1990 Camaro
Engine: 355ci
Transmission: TKO-600 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10 bolt
Originally posted by 25THRSS
Kenny Brown SFC's are by far the best design on the market. Once you do a lot of research you will find out why. The Spohn's are second.
Kenny Brown SFC's are by far the best design on the market. Once you do a lot of research you will find out why. The Spohn's are second.
#14
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Originally posted by 19doug90
i hate when people do this you cant say kenny brown's are better then spohns without giving a reason. As you seem to have a reason what is it? I'm not trying to be a jerk im just curious due to the fact that im going to be buying a set of sfc's soon.
i hate when people do this you cant say kenny brown's are better then spohns without giving a reason. As you seem to have a reason what is it? I'm not trying to be a jerk im just curious due to the fact that im going to be buying a set of sfc's soon.
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Car: 88 iroc x 2- 1 T-Top, 1 Vert
Engine: 350 tpi, 305 tpi
Transmission: 700R4-2800 stall, 700R4 stock
alston. for fit and finish they are the best i've seen. i have them and they are great. bolt and/or weld. they go in easy and work great. they don't weigh much and the car is stiff and quiet.
#16
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Car: '91 Firebird
Engine: 408 SBC
Transmission: T5
Originally posted by 25THRSS
Kenny Brown SFC's are by far the best design on the market. Once you do a lot of research you will find out why. The Spohn's are second.
Kenny Brown SFC's are by far the best design on the market. Once you do a lot of research you will find out why. The Spohn's are second.
#17
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Originally posted by wingnut
What makes either of those better than the Jegster ones?
What makes either of those better than the Jegster ones?
#18
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Car: '91 Firebird
Engine: 408 SBC
Transmission: T5
Yes, they bolt on. You can weld them also (I haven't welded mine yet). Here's a picture. For our cars, the passenger side is not straight (like shown in the picture) - it fits snuggly to the floor pan.
#20
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Car: 2004 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
Originally posted by 19doug90
i hate when people do this you cant say kenny brown's are better then spohns without giving a reason. As you seem to have a reason what is it? I'm not trying to be a jerk im just curious due to the fact that im going to be buying a set of sfc's soon.
i hate when people do this you cant say kenny brown's are better then spohns without giving a reason. As you seem to have a reason what is it? I'm not trying to be a jerk im just curious due to the fact that im going to be buying a set of sfc's soon.
These are my reasons why I bought them:
-They are light @ 15lbs for the pairs- SHIPPED!
-Zinc coating. I still painted them black, but atleast they will resist rusting if the paint chips.
-The rear LCA mount design. It boxes the LCA mount very nicely and even cups the part of the floor pan next to it creating a very beefy LCA section.
-They fit under my dual cat setup perfectly. I have since gone to a single cat setup and they still fit perfect.
#21
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Car: blue
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 6 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
I have Kenny Browns. They cost more than most but I am very happy with them. This is not the kind of upgrade you want to pinch pennys doing Get good ones whatever brand and have a pro do the install.
Last edited by 89rsragtop; 11-09-2008 at 01:55 PM.
#22
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Car: 2004 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
I feel if I am going to permanantly weld pieces to the frame of my beloved car, I am going to do my research and get the BEST ones I can find and buy. Not necessarliy the most expensive ones, but the best quality and design.
#25
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Originally posted by soulbounder
Can you use the KB SFCs with relocation brackets for the LCAs?
Can you use the KB SFCs with relocation brackets for the LCAs?
#26
Originally posted by Morley
Someone here said that they had to "modify" their passenger side floor pan to get the Jegs SFC's to fit. Anyone else have that problem with them?
Someone here said that they had to "modify" their passenger side floor pan to get the Jegs SFC's to fit. Anyone else have that problem with them?
pan. I did have to get it around the exhaust. I didn't want
to take down my exhaust, so I had someone pry down
on it while I threw it in there. The SFC on the P/S is contoured
to fit that floor pan. If you have to modify it, then the floor
pan was either hit underneath from something, or the car
was in an accident, and maybe tweaked the floor boards.
You do have to drill 4 holes through the floor boards for
each connector. I don't care. They are not going to be
coming out anytime! I would recommend some thread
locker on the bolts and nuts before you install them.
These were not that bad to do. I chose Jeg's SFCs cause
they don't require welding, and are a LOT thicker than most SFCs
on the market (over 2" square diameter, as opposed to only
1- 3/4" round diameter like Spohn's). And I don't have any
welding places nearby. However, these are not for an amateur
to install them! It takes time, some modifiying, drilling,
and patience to install these. It's WAY better to install
them on a lift!
Last edited by Camaro_nut; 09-26-2003 at 05:40 PM.
#29
another thumbs up for spohn sfc's...just welded mine in today...car feels more solid over bumpy roads and alot more stable at high speeds. as of right now i have a torquelss 305 tbi so i cant say much for keeping the chassis stiff on a hard launch
#31
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Car: 1992 Z28 and 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: both L98s one with SD and one with MAF
Transmission: both 700R4s
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by soulbounder
Can you use the KB SFCs with relocation brackets for the LCAs?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
yes, the relocation brackets weld to the rear end, not the subframe
not sure how to do quotes but oh well, for somereason I just always figured they attached to the body, but now that I think about it if they attached to the body they wouldnt help at all would they.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by soulbounder
Can you use the KB SFCs with relocation brackets for the LCAs?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
yes, the relocation brackets weld to the rear end, not the subframe
not sure how to do quotes but oh well, for somereason I just always figured they attached to the body, but now that I think about it if they attached to the body they wouldnt help at all would they.
#32
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Car: 85 ta ws6 KITT
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: th350
another vote for Spohn.
here's a pic of them...
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...67150729rIDASI
and a pic of them installed
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...67150639SrGIfo
i can't wait to buy more of his products.
here's a pic of them...
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...67150729rIDASI
and a pic of them installed
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...67150639SrGIfo
i can't wait to buy more of his products.
#33
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Car: 2016 Ram 1500
Engine: 3.0L Diesel
Transmission: 8sp
I have SSM's and they work well. I had an especially flexy car because the t tops are not factory they are cut in. made my car the best handling car I have ever driven after welding them in.
#34
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I havent really gotten into the sub frame connectors yet. My budget is alittle low with school and all. But I heard from someone that you can have the sphon connectors on...and use the alstons along with them. SO you have the two sphon side pieces, and the alstons to go in the middle. Anyone else hear this? I could be mistaken. All the long nights of working and then doing homework have made my brain alittle weary. Let me know... Justin
#35
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I used the Alston "bolt-on" SFCs and then had them welded. The fitment was very good and I liked the fact that the Alston "bolt-on" bars actually tied together the front and rear sub-frames - as opposed to bolting to the floor plan. I had to borrow a 90 degree air drill for drilling on the front sub-frame area,,, no way could I drill the bolt holes at the right angle (to fit tight to the subframe and line up with the brackets) with a regular drill. Also,, the differences in the thickness of the SFC brackets and subframe's "sheet metal" makes it tough for a newbie to weld. I'd suggest taking the car to someone that has welded in more than a few roll bars and sub frame connectors.
#36
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you know what guys, after spending all day undeneath my car today I think I've changed my mind. I like the spohn design better. It hugs the floor plan on the right side unlike the KB sfc's. I think this allows for a better way to weld them in thus making them stronger. Go Spohn, you can't go wrong. Just wish they sold the prothane bushings in black.
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
which set would clear my 4" mufflex, offroad Y pipe, fulllength header setup?
#39
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Car: 88 iroc x 2- 1 T-Top, 1 Vert
Engine: 350 tpi, 305 tpi
Transmission: 700R4-2800 stall, 700R4 stock
actually, those are alston's. they get resold by other venders under different names. i have those right there on my car and they are excellent.
#40
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I like the design of the spohn or KB sfcs way more than the alstons for 2 main reasons. First, you can use the spohn/KB design not only to strengthen the chassi and help prevent flex, but the also serve as awesome jacking points. Second, the alstons only give sufficient support to front and rear stiffness, but suck for lateral stiffness, where as spohn/KB design offers much better lateral support as well as front to rear support.
#41
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Originally posted by 25THRSS
I like the design of the spohn or KB sfcs way more than the alstons for 2 main reasons. First, you can use the spohn/KB design not only to strengthen the chassi and help prevent flex, but the also serve as awesome jacking points. Second, the alstons only give sufficient support to front and rear stiffness, but suck for lateral stiffness, where as spohn/KB design offers much better lateral support as well as front to rear support.
I like the design of the spohn or KB sfcs way more than the alstons for 2 main reasons. First, you can use the spohn/KB design not only to strengthen the chassi and help prevent flex, but the also serve as awesome jacking points. Second, the alstons only give sufficient support to front and rear stiffness, but suck for lateral stiffness, where as spohn/KB design offers much better lateral support as well as front to rear support.
#42
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Originally posted by Gumby
Could you post a pic that show what you think is better?
Could you post a pic that show what you think is better?
http://www.spohn.net/productimages/503SC_big.jpg
#45
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Originally posted by Gumby
That pic doesnt really show what you said, how it is better for jacking and the other stuff.
GOt any installed pics???
That pic doesnt really show what you said, how it is better for jacking and the other stuff.
GOt any installed pics???
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Car: 77 K20 80 K2500 93 C2500 94 K1500
Engine: 350 350 454 350
Transmission: 350 465 80E 60E
Axle/Gears: 4.10 3.73 5.13 3.73
Originally posted by Camaro_nut
I chose Jeg's SFCs cause
they don't require welding, and are a LOT thicker than most SFCs
on the market (over 2" square diameter, as opposed to only
1- 3/4" round diameter like Spohn's).
I chose Jeg's SFCs cause
they don't require welding, and are a LOT thicker than most SFCs
on the market (over 2" square diameter, as opposed to only
1- 3/4" round diameter like Spohn's).