chrisblazzer89

Any one know about the EZ-EFI system are they worth it for the money?

Saar

i can't say it any better than this:

http://60degreev6.com/forum/f104/why...rs-suck-t32931

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Where does that thread mention the EZ-EFI?

Chris, what system are you aimaing at? The TPI replacement ECU or the standalone throttle body system?

I inquired about the TPI system but unfortunately it doesn't do blown applications. We're probably going to try it on a super ram 406 that has a tuned stock 90 GM ECM now, it doesn't idle properly all the time (colder weather here, it's a CA car) we have good hopes the EZ EFI will be the easiest way to remedy this.

Saar

doesn't have to mention EZ-EFI: just that more often than not, GM ECMs will do a much better job than the aftermarket stuff.

properly tuned, of course.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

The gm ecm has all the factory parameters that the car is designed to have so naturally that makes it nicer to have than other systems. I mean all the little things other than just fuel/spark control. It has all the emissions controls, a/c controls, fan controls, converter control with automatics, etc etc.

EZ EFI is just fuel control and doesnt have spark control. Its a basic EFI system. Run a carb style mechanical or vacuum advance dizzy but you get control of fuel with map based efi setup.

Nice thing about the EZ EFI is that is has wideband input to help auto tune the car. It will adjust your VE tables for you based on what the wideband o2 sensor reads. Kinda a nice feature which makes it EZ to do

A good tune on a factory ecm should handle just about anything you can imagine running. From big cammed setups to boosted setups, just need to have the right program code and tune from there.

It just takes alittle time to get used to the code and knowledge to understand what all does what. There are alot of things in the stock ecm codes, but only a few main things that you need to play with to get a car running good.

chrisblazzer89

I was looking aT THIS for my 86 350 crate engine

73duster

I'm planning on running the ez retro setup with my 91 tpi. I'm tired of being told how great the stock system is. I started a thread about switching the stock ecm with a fast fuel ez setup and recieved mostly the same old "stay with stock" responses. I am simply looking for help in what to do to eliminate the stock ecm and running the ez setup. I researched the fast system and this is what i know so far.
It does only control the air and fuel, but so what? I can drop in a conventional msd distributor, coil and ignition box. Once you set the timing you're done, so i don't need the ecm to control timing. I can wire up the lock up funtion externally from the ecm and I don't want the vats system to work anyway. So to me, the stock ecm isn't critical as i don't see any other function. I'd like to know if i'm wrong, or if i'm forgetting something. I have the car for two years now and it has never run perfect. The idle is erratic most of the time and sometimes hunts around unpredictably. This is extremely annoying and very common as i've researched everywhere. I'm running a first fuel intake now and i've checked all the sensors and also for vacuum leaks. I don't have the time or patience to go back and forth trying to fine tune the chip. I had the car dyno tuned and even with a piggy back ecu controlling the air and fuel now, i'm still not happy with the car. The tuner was able to make the car better, but without expensive and time consuming trial and error techniques, i can't seem to get results. I spent an entire day and a thousand dollars for a minimal change. I'm not saying it can't be done, but i'm convinced from my research that the ez system flat out works. The fact that it tunes itself makes it a better long term solution for other performance upgrades or changes in the future. The retro system is for the gm tpi and basically uses everything thats already there. Just replace the wiring harness, O2 sensor and fuel pressure regulator. The harness plugs right in to all the stock sensors and the ECU is the best part. I saw a couple of videos displaying the how to's of the entire setup and it's easy. This is the ticket for guys like me looking to simplify the management of their engine without having to worry about future changes. From all the reviews i've read and seen videos of, it really works well.

73duster

I'm still trying to figure out if i'm overlooking anything else that i will have to do in eliminating the stock ecm. If anyone can let me know of anything, please let me know. When i make the change, i will post all the info i can including part #'s and pics. Someone's gotta try right?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

The problem your overlooking is that EFI is always going to need user input and trial and error techniques to run right. EZ EFI is not necessarily going to cure that. The tune itself feature is based on air fuel desired ratios at all points/rpms of operation based on wideband input. The air fuel ratios table needs to be set by someone manually to work and its not promised that those ratios will work with every engine combo. Idle tuning is most finicky and fuel control there needs to be spot on to get most factory stable idle.

I think the EZ EFI will work ok, but its not necessarily going to solve your issues. YOu still need to have a general understanding of EFI systems to tune any system.

As far as the ecm, i think its only going to control your fans, tcc lockup, fuel pump, and VATS which you dont really need. Fuel pump you will need to wire to activate key on and bypass the ecm. Not really all that hard to do i guess.

DAVECS1

iTrader: (2)

EFI is not black magic. The most important part to getting any system right is having a plan figured up before you go in. Start with a block diagram. What all needs to function when you remove the stock ECM. Timing, Cooling, fuel, gauges, transmission, etc. Then you can figure out if your newly selected ecm will run those or if you need another module to run that stuff. I have run a Holley commander 950, LSX/411, Electromotive, megasquirt, Accell, 7727, and 7730, all in a thirdgen and you would be hard pressed to tell they were not the stock ECM.

If you are having issues getting your car to run correctly, that tells me you have insufficient datalogging capability to discover your problem. You need to consider a system that will give you the most data monitoring ability for your budget. In my opinion this would not be the EZ-EFI. That would be going in the wrong direction as it claims success with out much fuss. Something like the Holley 950, Fast XFI, or Accel, will give economical on the fly tuning and monitoring, with an easy to use and understand GUI.

The Stock ECM has this capability, but it requires a host of additions from Moates, and a little labor by an individula to get it all working. Not difficult but you need to know what your doing. In my opinion alot of work just to use an outdated HC6811 processor.

73duster

I'm barely able to use a computer, so i respect all of your input and knowledge. However, i think because you guys have a better understanding of these systems and how to apply and retrieve info, that whats easy for you isn't necessarily so for someone like me. I like keeping things simple. The ez setup only deals with air and fuel. Everything else is old school and anyone with basic experience can make it work. Also, this system has plenty of data capability and can run purely off of rpm signal should the need arise. Last but not least, it's the only setup that truly tunes itself. I'm surprised that so many people are skeptical. I have'nt been able to find 1 negative review of this system yet, i think it works and its simplicity is great. Thanks for the input though, i will continue to research before i pull the trigger.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Like I said, it tunes itself based on wideband input it sees from the o2 sensor, and makes adjustments to dial in to a specific air fuel ratio. That air fuel ratio is set by someone. The ecm is not going to know what air fuel ratio the motor wants best at all conditions. I do not know if the user of the EZ system inputs that air fuel data, or if its automatically programmed in.

The same function is available in the 730 stock ecm with code $59. The guys that have developed that code have made a spreadsheet where you take your motor's wideband o2 sensor input and copy/paste that data into the spreadsheet. Based on your desired air fuel ratio, it will calculate the new fuel tables that you copy/paste back into your chip. It will run closer to that desired air fuel and if you picked a good air fuel ratio, it will run better. It truely does work.

The EZ EFI i'm going to guess works the same way. I dont see any other way to do it. I jsut dont know how to begin with the EZEFI system. DO you input a base tune and go from there? DO you input your injector size? Those are some important features. The ecm would need to know injector size to calculate fuel requirements for change of air fuel ratio unless it just guesses and iterates back and forth until its correct. THen you need to rely on the wideband sensor to ensure its operating correctly. If the wideband fails then the air fuel ratio readings will be off. IF those are off, the tune will go to crap.

I like the idea of the EZEFI and hope someone tries it to see how it works. I think it will do well but just not as well as a properly programmed stock ecm or one of the more advanced aftermarket ECU's

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

No, it is not worth the money. You will have to compensate for quite a few gray areas, and the folks over at EZ-EFI will tell you that with those particular areas you will be on your own to figure something out. The GM ECM will do it all for you; @ idle, @ part throttle and @ WOT, and there are quite a few companies out there that will burn you a chip. Yes, the EZ-EFI setup sounds easy, but at WOT, O2 correction becomes irrelevant either way....

73duster

I think you guys continue to miss my point. I don't have the equipment, knowledge or patience to do trial and error chip burning. I already dyno tuned the car with a piggyback ecm from perfect power . My air fuel ratio is fine and was verified with a wideband on the dyno throughout all the rpm ranges. Still the car runs erratic at times and i'm tired of it. You guys have the knowledge and patience, i don't. The things you are discussing are over my head and i'm on my own out here in nyc. I'm not the only person frustrated with the gremlins of the stock system. I'm not saying it does'nt work, but i can't even find anyone near me who truly knows how to get these cars running right. I'm ready to try something new, although it seems most of you think its a bad idea. I understand that a lot of you are loyal to the gm brand, but i'm open.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Take the time to start looking into it. The equipment is only 200-250 depending on what you get. To truly get the car to run proper, you need timing control everywhere and even better fuel control. EZ EFI cant give you the timing aspect so its hard to say how good it can be.

I just have a feeling the EZ EFI is going to be no better than the piggyback ecu tune you have now. I dont know what piggyback ecus/ecms are but I thought they only controlled air fuel as well and left most of the stock engine code alone? A true chip burn will allow you to adjust ALL the engine parameters at all operating temperatures. Cold start, warm start, hot start, idle, part throttle, WOT, stall savers, deceleration, acceleration, etc. Alot of little things you cant get with those other systems.

I understand its alot of work/time to invest in understanding these GM systems. It really isnt all that bad however. I was very intimidated when i first started but have learned alot from these boards and even more with just trying the software stuff.

Most of your questions and concerns have been answered in the 2 threads so it sounds like you are ready to purchase the EZ EFI system and wire it in. The few things stock ecm does control can be easily controlled by other methods.

Saar

85 for a BURN2 and 65 for an ALDL cable from ALDLcable.com, a GP1 package from moates (55) and you're set.

sparkplug619

From what I have learned through japanese and domestic, you should only go aftermarket ecm when you are dealing with a japanese vehicle. Most japanese ecu's cannot be modified, therefore its best to just replace the ecu with an aftermarket one with less restrictions. when you have a gm vehicle, you accomplish everything you need through prom burning which is 10x cheaper then any aftermarket ecu.

73duster

I guess i'm not getting through to the stay stock crowd. I have no idea or desire to "learn" how to burn chips. You guys make it sound like a walk in the park and i don't even have a laptop. Why are you so adamant about not using new technology? Is it that unbelievable that someone may have come up with a better way? I have had old school cars with plain jain carb and ignition setups that ran and behaved way better than this. It's easy to tell someone to get the equipment and learn how to tune it, but i have nobody to help me when i find myself stuck.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

These forums can help however you are missing our point. It may be NEW technology but doesnt make it better. Infact I do not think it is the "better" way. I'd go Fast XFI before that system. I have already stated I am not sure it will help your issue on your car. It has less overall control than a stock ECM so it may not work better at all.

My advice to you is to try it if you are so set on EZ EFI. As you can tell not many if any people here have it so no one can truely comment on its effectiveness.
Let us know how it goes. It may work out fine. I believe it will operate that motor but will it give you the driveability you want? Will it solve that erratic running issue? That I can not guarantee.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

My response was to the original poster, but I'll respond to this though. What you don't seem to understand is that the stock ECM already has O2 correction, w/your target AFR (BLM) being 128 (14.7). We then tune for the amount of ethanol that is found in today's fuel, as well as for the amount of incoming air depending on our mods. GM spent millions creating what we use as a base, so there is really no need in swapping to an aftermarket ECM, we simply enhance what already does the perfect job, overall. I already looked into the EZ-EFI system before I decided to go with Megasquirt II, but to this day, the EZ-EFI system is only intended for naturally aspirated applications, so it was of no use to me. Now, I've read about the EZ-EFI's characteristics, but what I would like to know, is how it self tunes at WOT w/out any O2 feedback. Are the lookup tables that the system comes with self adjusting? Do they change on their own? If that were possible, than they wouldn't just be for naturally aspirated applications then....

When it gets right down to it 73Duster, the EZ-EFI does ONE thing that the stock ECM cannot, and that is it adjusts fuel pulse width on it's own. However, the stock ECM does a whole slew of things that the EZ-EFI cannot, it controls spark, converter lockup, VATS, etc. Now, if you feel that going with the former because of that one thing, while then having to make up for all of the other things that it cannot do, is easier, well then your in for a very big surprise. I think your making a mountain out of a molehill when it comes to chip burning, but hey, if you have no time to burn chips, you have no time to burn chips. When I first bought my '90 GTA w/305-TPI, the stock 19 pound injectors went bad, and all I had were a set of 24 pound injectors to replace them with. That is a 5% increase in fuel in which the ECM was unaware of, so BLM's immediately dropped from 128 to 108 (rich). Now, w/out even touching the chip, I compensated by opening up the air intake leading into the combustion chamber, just enough, through porting, and BLM's went back up, and were maintained in the lower 120's. What I'm saying here is, the stock computer KNOWS where stoich is, it just needs help maintaining that average when you start changing things....

Saar

^ that is a DAMN good explanation...

and even then, there are a few masks that have been patched to allow auto-tuning with a wideband, $59 being the most prominent, but i believe 8D and 8F have as well.

73duster

I really do appreciate the feedback. As for how the system works, i've done some research and have'nt found any negatives. As for spark, i've never had a problem with a conventional distributor and msd box. Engines are not complicated, air, fuel and spark. The complicated part for me is the ecm. I don't want vats and lock up can be wired separately. I like simplicity, and i don't have a laptop or know how to screw around with fuel tables. Who's going to walk me through the process? I have'nt been able to find anyone willing to tune the system anywhere near me. I ended up going an hour and a half away to an expert tuner and still the car is'nt right. It's easy to tell someone to learn and do it yourself, but i'm really on my own. My experience has taught me to keep things simple, and for me thats running everything but the air and fuel conventionally. I've never had the need to control timing on any car. The ez system rewrites the fuel tables throughtout all rpm parameters. It uses all the gm tpi sensors currently on the car. All the reviews have been very positive. Unless someone is going to travel and show up at my doorstep with all the necessary stuff, i'm not willing to "do it myself". I've built many cars in the past, and this car is by far the most finicky to get to run right.

sonoramike

sounds like you've had your mind made up to buy the ez system since your first post - good luck

Saar

here's something i just thought of: how many of aftermarket controllers have any kind of limp-home mode if hardware fails?

73duster

This one does. It will run off of rpm signal alone if any sensors fail. It also features on board diagnostics and real time data presented in simple dummy code for guys like me.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

how does it control hot and cold starts? how do you tune for those? Those have always been manual inputs. I fail to see how that system would "calculate" startup desired fuel inputs at hot and cold temps.
You need a base map to run the motor so you have a place to even start tuning. I hope the EZ EFI has a set map you can program in thats close enough and that its even capable of starting the car up. If its not close you will not get that car to fire

Just some more concerns to deal with.

I have helped tons of people get their feet wet and even offered a few bins to try. I'm sure there are people here that would lend a hand

sparkplug619

I have a good idea for you. You should buy the ez-efi, plug it up, let it tune your car for you and leave your feedback on the forums.

Before you set it up, take pictures, videos, and log all problems you have with your car now.

After you set it up, take pictures, videos and log all problems you have with your car then, tell us ow great or how bad it works, tell us if it fixed your idle problem and all other problems it has.

I am not trying to sound like an a-hole when I say this but this thread is really going nowhere. Everyone is entitled to their opinion and everyone functions and learns differently.

If it works it'll be a good "I told you so" for you, but if it fails your out $1500-$2000.

sparkplug619

BTW guys, it replaces your throttle body, fuel injectors, tps, coolant sensor and o2 sensor, im pretty sure thats all it needs to tune itself.

EDIT: and the fuel pump


72duster, if you woulda stated this earlier it probably would've clarified things alot more

73duster

Sorry, maybe i did'nt quite spell out every bit of info on the system. It uses all of the stock gm sensors. It is a retro kit, not the one thats universal with the throttle body. The retro kit installs on any car that is already equipped with efi. This kit is a direct plug and play for the gm tpi. The only difference is this kit does'nt come with the throttle body because it runs your current configuration. As for base maps, it asks you all the basic questions about your particular engine setup. I suggest checking out their website, i can't spell out every little bit of info. I don't get why it's so hard to believe this system can start and tune itself. It's 2010, not 1991. Price is $850 on summit for kit, minus ignition setup which you would need like, distributor, ignition box and coil. I will post pics, i don't have video capability, but will give you a thorough review, whether or not its a success. I should be getting the kit early to mid april because it's backordered. There are video reviews all over the internet, just search for fast ez efi. The videos show everything you need to know.

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

Is there a EZ forum that you can determine the success of other users? Positive and negative feedback?

One thing you should research is the critical positioning of the WB(Bosch?) sensor in the ext tract. I fried two sensors over first tuning season. Sensor is sensitive to excessive heat. I dont believe you can place it in stock location. It will need to be moved back.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I've seen the video, and despite the praise from Hot Rod Magazine, I am still not convinced. When I first bought my 4th gen LS1 Trans Am a few years back, before I gave it to my wife, we heard similar praises of the "Hand Held" units that would simply do it all, no laptop required. It sounded great at the time, but it didn't do much more than the stock PCM was already programmed to do, not to mention nothing beats a dyno tune when your looking to squeeze every last bit of power from the motor. The hand held units were a gimmick, just like the Granatelli MAF sensors, they did in fact do "something", but just not worth the money though.

If I remember correctly 73Duster, you initially wanted to go with the EZ-EFI system because your engine had some type of a hiccup, and wasn't running right, am I correct? Don't be so quick to blame the tune, as a lot of things other than the tune can cause the engine to hesitate, stall, or simply have poor performance (vacuum leak, fuel problem, bad coil, plugs and wires, etc). If that is indeed the case, then understand that the EZ-EFI system is NO exception, the engine still won't run right until the problem is fixed. Now, heres the video giving an example. What needs to be pointed out is when the Hot Rod employee states, when the engine is warming up, that the engine "should" idle okay. Why do you think he says that? Because, like I was saying, there are a lot of variables, not to mention something might already be wrong with the engine. Also, if it were that easy to program a WOT air/fuel ratio on command, then why wouldn't this system be boost friendly....?

Someone buy this system already, so we can see how great it really is....;

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/377855..._installation/

73duster

I just want to make clear that i do appreciate the feedback and i'm sure you guys would help me if i wanted to stay stock. However, i want to be able to do everything with as little help as possible. The ignition i can handle, and as for the system, the wiring harness is straightforward and plugs directly on the stock sensors. I ordered everything last night so its full speed ahead, hopefully by mid april. I guess i'll find out just how easy the ez setup is. I have no reason to think it won't work, as it uses all the basic sensors and a wideband to tune itself. If it works as designed, it will be great for future upgrades or engine changes. It's not uncommon for me to change engines. I'm currently running a 383 with a first fuel injection intake, profiler aluminum heads, 10-1 compression and a comp cam 268h flat tappet cam. The engine was dynoed when built at 385hp and 486 ft lbs. I have stainless long tube headers from hawks and full dual exhaust all the way. I'll keep you updated when i get everything, like i said before, the system is on backorder.

73duster

Streetlethal, i checked for vacuum leaks as did the dyno tuner i went to. I also changed plugs, cap and rotor and checked tps and reset iac as per instructions on this forum. I did not simply wake up one day and decide to change everything. I know enough about cars to check all of the usual things. I just don't want to purchase things i know nothing about using, including having to buy a laptop and having to rely on help.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

You went to Ida Automotive, correct? What did they tell you after looking at the datalogs? Rather, what/where exactly is this hiccup that you are complaining about? After you got your tune you initially praised how well the car was running, but were complaining about the lack of power, or the power not living up to the potential of the provided dyno sheet, correct? Putting the dyno sheet to the side, you said the car ran well, so when exactly did this hiccup start to occur, after you got home....?

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

This is what I remember reading after you went to Ida Automotive for a tune on the stock ECM setup. If you want to convert to the EZ-EFI system for FUTURE modifications, and don't want to spend money on dyno tunes, thats one thing, but to say that the stock ECM is ancient in comparison is wrong, especially since you praise its ability it in the following....;

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...556-post4.html

73duster

At the time, i was concerned with wide open throttle. That felt good, when he leaned out the lower end it smoothed the idle some. But when i drove it around town, stop light to stoplight, the car was surging again. The car seems to do it sporadically and without warning. A couple of times the car has simply shut off on me, although it would fire right up again. The car used to warm up at 1100 or 1200 and settle down. Now it warms up at 750 and rough. Once the car is up to temp, it will usually hunt up and down like it wants to stall. I have the timing at 6 degrees and i've triple checked for vacuum leaks. The car does'nt always run this way, but considering the mild cam it should'nt be an issue.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

raise the idle speed. 750 is low for just about any performance motor. If it used to start up at 1100, thats normal but if its firing up at 750 on a cold start that means something that used to work fine no longer works. Fast EZEFI wont solve that kind of issue.

Hows the IAC sensor? is it clogged or dirty? Try resetting it or unplugging it to see if it still runs the same.

Its not that we dont believe it can tune itself or start the car, i just have my doubts as to how easy its going to be to just plug and fire up the car. It will eventually work but its going to depend on the inputs you are allowed to tell it to get a base map. The base map will be the key. Since you dont have the EFI background on how the stock system works, it makes it harder to understand the workings of the EZ EFI. It will work on similar principles. All efi does in one way or another.

73duster

I reset, cleaned iac as per instructions. All sensors are new, 600 miles on motor. The problems are intermittent. I'm definately not going to try and convince anyone that i'm doing the right thing, but i am stumped at what else to do. I spent a thousand dollars and an entire day on the dyno. I just don't have the time or resources to make trips to an expensive tuner in hopes that it will get better. Kudos to you guys with the know how and patience though.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

to revive this post. i'v seen 2 of these systems in person, they are the TB version. one is on a 383 in a buick GN. the other is on a 85 camaro with a mild GM crate motor. both of these system run remarkably well.

i myself am about to buy the retro kit and being i worked at COMP 1½ yrs ago i watched the system go thru develpment which also allows me to be in contact with the guy that built/designed it.

i asked the enginneer about the basics and he said you put in a target a/f on the cruz, idle and WOT and it goes there. the guy with the buick has had his system for more than a year and couldnt be happier. he said it runs as smooth as when he still had his turbo 6 in the car.

im purchasing my system next weekend but most likely wont get it right off as i understand there is a B/O on things.

btw, the designer is working on a twin system on his vette at the moment.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

So they corrected the boost issue? The last time I spoke w/them they indicated that the setup itself couldn't quite compensate for the additional boost pressure w/the fueling....

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

what i ment by TB was throttle body, sorry for the confusion. your corect, the ez wont work with any sort of power adder and this is where the XFI system comes in.

91B2L

I read many magazines that has TPI tests, most if not all using aftermarket ECM. Granted these test have been just the engine on a dyno stand. Has anybody been able to get 350+ hp from a factory ECM without burning 100 chips

Saar

you aren't going to make massive amounts of power through tuning alone(or at least you shouldn't, if you do, the tune it was running on was bad to begin with). the factory ECMs are as capable, if not more, than most aftermarket pieces. the tuning concepts are also the same, but more often than not, the factory ECM has more options to tweak to get something just right in all conditions, rather than compromising driveability for WOT power...

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Factory GM ECM's have been taken way above that, just ask the '7148 crowd. The ECM isn't the limitation, power is based on fueling. More air needs more fuel, and that has to do with injector size, pulse width and fuel pressure. As far as getting 350+ horsepower from a stock ECM w/out touching the chip, there are way too many variables, the first being which engine your referring to, and if its stock or modified. We can obviously rule out stock, because even an aftermarket ECM won't get you those numbers with a bone stock L98/LB9 engine. If we're talking modified, and if you don't want to touch the chip, you need to calculate the new combo and go with the right injectors, then adjust the distributor until you find the right timing the engine is calling for. Not the best way to tune, but is has been done, and those numbers have been reached, but again, with modified engines....

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

Many of us here run modified engines on street and only occasionally get to track. Max HP is really not top of my list as far as my tune goes. Rather drivability on street is just as important. Actually getting solid WOT numbers without stringing out every last horse is not all that difficult. My WB monitors A/F and I am currently around 12.5-12.8 which is OK for me for WOT. It would take a dyno to narrow down my WOT SA but I am not all that concerned. Getting the drivability right is much more important to me.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

update

i got my kit faster than expected and as soon as i get one of my trucks on the road again i'll tear into the car and start installing it. i bought the retro kit being my car is TPI and all i needed was the harness and ECM. this alone brought cost down vs the standard TB style kit.

last night i took a quick look at it and about 75% of the kit is a no brainer, the other 25% will take some working out but still isnt any issue. i'll most likely start a whole new thread with pics when it goes in.

i'll also be able to answer tuning ques on how that works. one kool thing about the retro kit is you can go as big as you want a long as they make an injector ad FP to keep up. the TB kit unfortunatly is rated around 600 hp.

with this kit it allows me to step up to a HSR with no issue and if i decide to make any motor changes i can do so and not have to worry bout re tuning.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

here are a few shots of my EZ EFI retro kit. the first pic is the stock GMECM next to the EZ ECM.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

one more a bit closer of the plugs for those that are curious.

carguy502

iTrader: (2)

Any updaten on the install? I am curious to see how this one goes...

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

havent had a chance to tackle it yet. both trucks are still down and work moved me to nights this week so that screwed up everything for now. when i get one of my trucks together i'll try and get going on this because im curious to see what iv been lacking in certain areas by not being fully tuned via the old style chip stuff.