Blk90iroc

im currently building a NA 383 and was wondering if i would be able to get away with running a 100 or higher shot without building it for nitrous, im not sure on what compression will be cuz i havnt picked my pistons yet

89JYturbo

Sure, if you get good pistons.

Blk90iroc

well that was easy lol, what do you suggest i do here...this afternoon i got a quote from the place for 10 grand for my 383 long block(top of the line parts),i cant be spending that much plus intake and blower and all the extras. ive wanted a blower FOREVER!, i told him that i would be happy with 450-525 horses at the motor, he said with this setup i would be making way more then that, and i dont really want that cuz its not streetable, so i was wondering if anyone has suggestions as to what i should do to try to bring down the price but not skimp out on parts and try to get into my horsepower range with a blower,thanks!

TBI92Camaro

Yes you'll be plenty fine on the 100 shot easily. Keep your compression around 10:5, ALL FORGED INTERNALS (minimum you must have forged pistons), and get a GOOD kit (NX or NOS, none other).

a 383 can EASILY make 500 RWHP with good heads/cam/intake setup to the wheels. Its all according how radical you wish to go. 400+ RWHP n/A is so easy as pie.

If you are carb'd, get you a plate kit, 100-150 shot, 10lb bottle out back and you're fine. Im quite partial to wet kits...i liek them providing the fuel for me.

good luck.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

It's costs money to build a strong 383. I think I had $400 or so just in fastners on mine, which were ARP studs and bolts about everywhere. You could build one way less than $10k though. I have ~$8k in mine and that's just about everything for the swap (AFR 210cc heads, intake, carb, seasoned block, machine work, labor, headers, fuel system updates, etc).

I'm hoping I'll break 500 HP at the motor on mine, so being solid roller it's on the radical side of things. I also follow'd specs for nitrous gaps in cause I want a little extra go I can use a 50 or 100 hp shot easily without worries.

You can start shopping for a good block, crank, rods, and pistons now if you have decided on your CR. I'd also recommend forged everything, don't skip on stuff else it can come back and bite you. For rods you might want to look into stroker clearanced ones. You'll want to figure out what type of intake you plan on running before the camshaft, heads, and other valvetrain purchases.

If you don't want to assemble it yourself sometimes you can pay extra at the shop that does the machine work and they'll handle all that for you.

I've been looking over the NX kits. They rate their numbers at RWHP, so there shots are slightly larger than other kit companies. The Hitman plate looks like a nice system, if you wanted to spend a little extra the Hitman Plus would offer more upgradeability if you need'd it.

It's not the large items like rotating assembly that will sneak up on you. It's all the small crap $5 here, $30 there that adds up fast.

Also no one mentioned be ready to start breaking things if you start pounding on stuff hard with 400 hp. OEM transmissions don't usually like that after years of use.

Blk90iroc

i already have a 350 splayed 4 bolt,eagle forged crank, scat h beam forged rods and srp pistons the quote i got was for all that, all the machining, balancing, afr heads and all the hardware and all other minor things...pretty much a long block, im gonna go with the hsr intake, if i can do 500 at the wheels NA then tell me how and i wont do anything else

TBI92Camaro

for one, dump that ****ty EFI crap. Get a good single plane intake matched to your cam. Get a 770cfm Holley Double pumper with mechanical secondaries. LT headers, SOLID tune and RWHP you should be looking at over 400 RWHP N/A asl ong as you have good solid heads (AFR's or Brodix's).

Then add the spray. Right now my Spray is a big thing on my car. I want to eventually phase it out as only "insurance" and not so much rely on it to get big ET's and MPH.

Good luck.

Blk90iroc

carbs are not so good for street,cold start ups and whatnot, this is gonna be a daily driver so i dont know about that

valencia1z

do a 350 383 keep the injection do the forged internals and when u really need to wake it up hit it with a 150 250 shot but if ure doin the the 200 plus 250 look into a progresive nitrous controller other then that have fun

Blk90iroc

sounds good man thanks for the help, ill let you know how it goes

88GTAbandit

iTrader: (1)

try this place, its were im getting my motor from..jsut short block not the complete engine...but they have great priced engines budget and norm price

http://www.dyno-flo.com/index.php?pr=s_c_383b

TBI92Camaro

COmmon misconception. electric choke will get it up to idle fine.

Ill take a carb ANYDAY over that junky TPI crap. ONLY EFI I like is LSx series and Ford EFi (5.0/5.8).

Carb's are MUCH cheaper all aorund...not to mention cakework to tune. Seriously....consider a carb, its worth it.

Chevyguy496

If your going to be running a blower you need to go with a low CR like 8-8.5:1 depending on what kind of a setup you want to run. Forged pistons are a must also if your planning on actually using the boost. Also don't skimp on the rings and pay close attention to end-gap. If you run too much compression with a blower you start dentonating with low boost and its pointless. Also If you use high quality parts and keep the compression decent you can drive on the street w/ 550+ h.p. and run race gas, switch the pulley for more boost at the track and run 600+.

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

What do you think people used before fuel injection for decades? I can start my car up, without a choke mind you, no problem in winter.

Blk90iroc

hmm its something ill think about, fi is better for street tho but more money,and there is little to no power difference between the 2....im really interested in the hsr but im sure you guys could talk me out of it lol

TBI92Camaro

The hell there isnt a power differance. carb's are ALOT cheaper and eaiser to tune. Intake runs 200, carb 400 and thats top of thel ine **** brand new. then tuning is a 40 dollar jet kit away and thatll work in ALL your holley/demon carbs from 600 cfm to a 800 cfm carb.

Seriously, I thought EFI was cool too. Then I used a double pumper and loved them. Dont waste time on edeljunk carbs, they are for horsepower enthusiasts.

Holley/Demon carb, good intake and any HEi distributor and you're rolling. tuning is REAL easy.

Only reason Im EFi on my Stang is because I dont wanna buy carbs twice....im savin te carb for the 408

leeperryracing

Go with the holley stealth ram, you just can't go wrong. Look at my combo and the power it makes and what do I get?...probably better gas milage than a stock 305, seamless throttle response and all weather reliability(i.e-no starting issues.) Follow your mind and you'll never go wrong. Yes, carbs work and they are cheap but if your after "new car" kind of drivability, a good FI set up will walk all over ANY carb.

Blk90iroc

thanks for the help guys, im definetly going with the hsr and probly going with a NA 383 going for about 450 to 500 at the wheels, can anyone with close to the same power numbers give me some tips or specs on what they used?

Blk90iroc

anyone?

vernw

iTrader: (2)

Don't think you'll find many NA 383 street setups with that much power to the wheels (maybe the crank though ), and defintely far fewer daily drivers if that's what you're after. Cams get too radical at those HP levels for many street manners IMO. Torque is what it's all about on the street anyway....