dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Why are they so much $$$? I have been looking for a good BOV. I don't care about sound I just want it to work, and work well for a long time. I have a 383 with an F1 procharger that I am building. I am looking for a BOV now. The price ranges are all over the place. Any guidance....

I keep checking ebay and racingjunk.com for deals, no one sells them used. Seems like you buy them once and thats it (Procharger BOV).

HELP, thanks.

KS91Z28

[QUOTE=dennisbernal91z;4438675]Why are they so much $$$? QUOTE]

That's like asking why divorces are so expensive, 'cause they're worth it!

Ok, all kidding aside. It's a good quality piece. That's all I can say.

cousineddy88

alright check it out, im guessing you know the point of a BOV right? they are really expensive because of what it does for your system. by adding the BOV your basically adding a safety measure to your charger. theres no way around paying alot for this kind of thing, so check out weiand if your looking for a budget buy. very reliable and cheap in comparison. hope that helps

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

They are expensive because they are intricately machined from a billet, meaning long CNC time and a chunk of alu. That adds to the $$$. Check out the 50mm tial valves, they are just as expensive.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the help so far, but still don't really explain anything.

I am very aware of what BOV do and how they work. I am also a mechanical engineer so I know all about billet and CNC time and how much it costs to get that type of work done. The things I don't understand is when you search for BOV on websites that ONLY sell BOVs there are dozens and dozens of modles with prices ranging from $120 to $440. I will look into what you guys have suggested and post what I find here. I don't mind paying the $450 as long as I know I am getting something that is worth it.

The prices seem to change drastically with no real way of knowing why.

-There are no specs.
-There is no breakdown of matetials used.
-Nothing about how much PSI they can sustain
-And also nothing about how fast they can bleed off a certain PSI

So in a nutshell, there is nothing listed on any selling websites to teach me, the consumer about what I am buying...

Any details or locations of information that you guys have would be greatly appreciated.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Made in China and made in the USA makes a big difference in price too.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I know. I acctually am a product engineer. I design parts to get injection molded. I get quotes from USA and China. China is at least 1/2 price everytime.

I just need information recources to learn more. I will do whatever work it takes to learn what I am looking for. I bought an F1 Procharger due to all the engineering info that was out there, specs, materials, testimonials and so on. There seems to be non of that for BOV.

I have a picture of a thirdgen that has an F3 on it and he is making 2500HP. He has 2 procharger BOV. That means he must be wanting to bleed off his PSI faster. Of course I am not in that ballpark, but non-the less I want to about the principals behind how much each one can sustain. Maybe I can find 2 high quality smaller ones that work just as good as one Procharger BOV. Not that I want to run two, but just saying....


I will try calling Procharger today, they hand you over to a tech relatively fast over the phone.

KS91Z28

A couple things to help you get started. ProCharger's Race Bypass Valve only costs $415 directly from ProCharger. Probably less if you go through one of their distributors. Several of them are sponsers of this site. When you start comparing valves, make sure you look at BYPASS valves, not Blow Off Valves.

KS91Z28

Here's a good site sponser to start with.

Hawks Third Generation
http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com
Phone number: 864-855-2694

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I know about the direct and distributor price deal. I have been looking allllll over the place. They are always over $400.

I have bought many parts from sponsors of this site, Hawks does not sell Procharger BOV.

Blow off and bypass are the same thing. Only difference it how you plumb it. The bypass blows back into your intake pipe to keep noise down while bov vent to the atmosphere. Procharger sells their BOV with an enclosed design so you can plumb it back and they also sell it open. Same price small small change.

I want to run the least amount of pipes I can so I think I am going to stick with a BOV not a bypass. I have the stock bypass that comes with a D1-SC. Thing is tinny and make from plastic and rubber.

Anyone have any websites with hard data showing anything about BOVs?

vwdave

JGS Turbo in Oregon.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Ok so I called Procharger. I was mistaken a bit about the BOV and bypass valve.

KS91Z28: you are right. I should be looking for Race Bypass valves.

I asked what the "stock" or small one they sell is rated for and they said it is good for about 450-500. After that you should go to the race valve. After 2000 HP you should run two.

So at least I have some #s now. Not much but something. The tube is 2" on the race and 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 on the smaller standard one they sell.

The two styles they sell is closed and open. Closed is just to add a tube to it so you can vent to a fender and keep it quiet. Thats all. The open is the vent to the atm.

I will search for race bypass valves now.


Thanks for all the help so far. I will post what I find.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

One thing I found about BOV's is that some leak more then others. A leaky valve will bleed off boost. This is one spec that at a minimum should be listed for the customer. At the same time it is a good question to ask: what is the leakage rate at X psi?

RBob.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I never found any good reason for the high dollar BOVs either so I researched the cheapos. Lots of people had signifigant miles on the ebay pieces and they worked as they advertised. Good enough for me, and good enough for my drag car

I was expecting low quality everything, but it wasnt. $40 and two BOVs later, I was pleasantly surpised how high quality they really were. They were listed as billet, but they're actually cast and then heavily machined. I paid the extra $3 for mild steel flanges. What a joke, they're cast iron and hit the scrap bin right after they arrived. I tested them with vacuum on my DD and they operated as they should. All movements fluid

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Not bad at all. I think I will still end up going with the Procharger unit. Even if it is x10 more $. I want to run one good, proven unit rather than 2 cheaper ones.

If I was building a drag car I would def go the same route as you. But for the street, where this car is going to see A LOT of miles in traffic and so on, I will pay for the robustness and design if the priceier unit.

Thanks for the pics and replies.

online170

Got a link to those Pocket?

AC

iTrader: (3)

Dennis, I'd suggest going to the open to atmosphere rather than the "circuit" one.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo...item588615b225

aka the cheapest units for sale ever

RBob

iTrader: (1)

At least they spec'd the leakage: "No Leak at Idle"

Now if they would only spec the leakage under boost...

RBob.

grover85

iTrader: (1)

If you want a simple solution run one of these.
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...26tbs%3Disch:1
They are reliable and cheap. We are running one on a 600 hp 911 at work. I also run one on my WRX with no problems.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Anyone know of a place that a :Procharger Bypass, open style, steel flange: can be bought for LESS than 383 + shipping?

I have had no luck.

90-irocdx3

iTrader: (4)

100 on ebay pro flow
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ATI-P...#ht_500wt_1182

race open valve 276
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Proch...#ht_500wt_1182

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Already been watching the big red for 3 days now!

LOL

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

To be honest I would just dump to atmosphere and use a regular BOV. its cheaper. Bypass usually dump it back into the charge pipe which really isnt needed. Common for MAF cars because the ecm needs to see that air or else it has no idea that air was pulled out after the MAF. Also sometimes bypasses air until WOT so you dont have boost at part throttle which is no fun but better for gas mileage i suppose. I have heard the procharger ones do this.

Tial 50mm on my turbo setup. More than enough air flow to bleed off pressure fast and it sounds soo cool

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

To put it bluntly I want to do what is BEST, not what is cheaper. I don't care if the damn valve cost a grand, I would save up and buy it.

The bypass does dump to atmosphere. Some don't but the "open" style procharger does. This is the one I will be buying.

And as for it only closing when you are at WOT that is true, but only if you adjusted that way. If you want the booste to come in sooner, then you just adjust the valve to close with more vacuume.

I will stick with the procharger bypass and cough up the extra dough. I trust procharger too. I personally don't know anything about Tial. I am sure they are fine, but if my head unit is a PC, I sorta wanna keep the valve a PC too.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I can understand that but in this case neither one is BEST. They are the same thing. Procharger your paying for the name. They are over priced. If you want to double the cost to do something the same way, then more power to you. I noticed you get caught up in this build with part selection. Worrying too much about the parts you use. I think your thinking too hard into it Tial is the most popular brand out there and for 200 bucks its a darn good valve.

calebzman

iTrader: (3)

Your title complains about the cost and then you say you don't care how much you spend. There's some good advice in this thread and some good, cheap alternatives to the Procharger BOV. I use a $30 BOV on my street car and it has a lot of miles on it. It's a pretty simple device.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I was not trying to complain in the title. I was trying to get people to click on the thread and give advice. I am happy to have all the advice in this thread.

I agree there is def a "paying for the name" situation going on here. I guess I know I will be going to shows and as much as this car will be drivin daily, it will be at shows a lot and I do like the look of that big red anodized aluminum body bypass valve.

I am happy to have learned there are cheaper alternatives. I am now a more edjucated consumer, but that doesn't mean that I will buy the cheaper one nessicarily (sp).

Anyways, thanks for all the help and heads up.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

You can anodize aluminum pretty much any color you want, much like you can powerdercoat almost anything

Dont buy it just for the 'pretty red' aspect

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Don't worry thats not what I am doing.

I like the fact that the engineers at procharger that developed my supercharger used these same units during testing. They also have life cycle tests on them as well. The look nice, in form and color as well.

I am a product engineer, and I have done a lot of life cycle testing in my past. I know many companies do away with this to cut cost. I know that Procharger does this, so I am willing to pay for it.

I have had things anodized before. I am aware that it is like poweder coating.

vmapper

That is also for TURBO and should NOT be used on a procharger system.
People mix the two all day long, they are TWO COMPLETELY DIFFERENT THINGS.
BOV = turbos, always closed except when boost is present and throttle closed.
Bypass (recirculating / atmosphere) = belt driven blower is always OPEN except when your flooring it.

quickly, because boost is made at all rpm with a blower on a belt (centrifugal) pressure must be eased while the throttle is closed, ALSO then closing the throttle after flooring it.
A bypass is always open UNTIL you floor it, at which point, it closes to make your full potential boost, then opens again once the throttle closes.
A BOV like this junk referred to above will hinder drivability, performance and detrimental to your impeller. as it ONLY opens when a certain BOOST is reached.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

BOVs in addition to a BPV do a good job of keeping couplers from being blown apart. For race apps, BOVs are just fine for SC cars

Duts87ss

iTrader: (10)

I know I'm late to the game, but found this link for a ProCharger BOV:
http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-3FASS...-3FASS-004.htm

grover85

iTrader: (1)

WTF are you talking about. Do you know how these valves work? When they see vacuum they are open. When they see boost they are closed. They have nothing to do with controlling boost. That would be the wastegate. Vortech actually uses the valves I previously listed in allot of there kits.