MikeC.86Roc

iTrader: (10)

Just finished the final touch on the rollcage. It is all painted now. Talk about a massive undertaking! It didn't cost all that much when all is done, but some serious hours getting it all completed that's for sure. Good luck to all who undertake this project!

REVLIMIT

how do you get hte cages inside the car? do they all come un assembled? or do they come as one peice? Anyways that looks bad *** nice work

MikeC.86Roc

iTrader: (10)

The kit that I installed was a pre-cut and formed kit made by competion engineering. It cost about $250 shipped and I was very satisfied with the overall fit and finish. The kit is not "ready to go" though. It is a weld in kit, and requres extensive notching and cutting of the pre-formed tubes. Each tube comes in a length that is too long, and requires you to cut it and then notch it in order to make it fit together properly. The kit also came with 8 steel plates that you must form to the floor and then weld in for chassis rigidity.

Basic necessary items for this job:

1.Good quality MIG or TIG welder
2.Electric or air circular grinder
3.Acetylene torch
4.Band saw (makes life much easier)
5.Tape measure
6.A good shop and alot of time!

This is just basic stuff, but it's about all you need. Good luck!

Terry Kennedy

iTrader: (5)

Mike I have been thinking of putting in a cage lately also. I have a few question's for you. What did you do about the head liner? Diid you leave it in and work around it or leave it out? What other item's did you have to remove that would be a hassel? I know the basic's like seats, carpet and some plastic, but how about the dash? Also I would love to see more pic's if you have any.

MikeC.86Roc

iTrader: (10)

You've got mail Terry...

AlkyIROC

That's why having a cage installed by a chassis shop can cost over $1000. The material cost is cheap but it's all the labor of installing it.

I can't tell from the picture but that looks like a roll bar not a cage. A cage will also have a roof bar going across the top of the windshield and 2 a-piller bars.

MikeC.86Roc

iTrader: (10)

Yep you're right, I guess it isn 't a "cage" and you knew that when you saw that it was an 8 point. Time for me to quit calling it that!!

AlkyIROC

There's nothing wrong with your 8 point roll bar. I only have a 6 point in my car. Until the floor or firewall have been modified, the roll bar as long as it's properly installed and it sounds like it is, will be good to 10.0 ET. Modifications include relocating the firewall to set the engine back or cutting out the floor to create an access panel for transmission removal.

Your equipment list has "Good quality welder". I hope that ment a MIG or TIG welder because stick (arc) welding won't pass a tech inspection if you're running quicker than 12.0.

MikeC.86Roc

iTrader: (10)

Wow, I didnt realize that all those other mods were required to make a certified cage. Now THAT is alot of work! Yeah, it should be just fine for what I need, I doubt my Iroc will ever see 10's.

I also edited the post with the suggestion about the welder too. Thanks Steve.

AlkyIROC

One of my winter projects I'm planning on doing is ripping out the 6 point bar. It's made from 1 3/4" as required by NHRA rules. I want to install a complete 1 5/8" 12 point cage. I only want mild steel. Crome-moly would be nice and light but I don't have a TIG welder to put it together. MIG is all that's required for mild steel.

Although I still don't need the full cage, the extra stiffness should help the car. I know of 12 second cars with full cages.

atomicm0nk

does anyone have any pictures of any rolle cages or bars after the car was completed, I would like to see exactly how much room I will have before I put one in.

MikeC.86Roc

iTrader: (10)

Wow, Steve now that's ambitious to want to take the old one out and in with the new. I cringe at the thought of undoing the work on mine after all the hours I spent. But just depends on the needs eh? I know that A. Skulte on the power adder board has a really cool looking cage project. I think that guy autocrosses alot though and would make the cage rigidity a major improvement.

I was amazed at just the difference of the 8 point rollbar in overall rigidity though. I have yet to really run it, but I already know for sure that my car is one hell of alot more stiff now. The car feels "linked" from front to back now and just alot more rigid.

Question... Do you think that subframes would be overkill now? I don't have em yet, and I was gonna just make my own set, so cost is not really a concern.


Oh and atomic, check your email, I sent more pics to ya.

AlkyIROC

Yes you still need SFC. The roll bar only ties the body together. The front and rear subframe, like there really is any on a third gen, still only attaches to the body with spot welds. Tieing the subframes together with SFC will stiffen up the chassis while the roll bar stiffens up the body.

When both are installed all the squeeks and creeks should be gone from the car but without all that flexing, ride comfort will be decreased.

Picture on my site are after completion. Of course I have no interior to worry about either.

bob8748

Hey Stephen
Love your web site, using the pic of your burnout for a wallpaper. (keeps me wanting to build my 87). Gonna copy your idea of sealing the back with the hatch... Nice.
Bob

atomicm0nk

wow that really cuts alot of room out of the back, I am going to attemt a 4 pt. cage while keeping the backseats in the car. The way me and my brother have it planned, it should work.

AlkyIROC

And my fan club keeps growing That was a good burnout. I got a few comments from my team mates about that one.

My rear hatch sealing has changed. I didn't really like the way I originally did it. Now there's an aluminum panel attached to the underside of the rear hatch. When I close the hatch, the panel seals against the rear firewall that was cut down a bit. Since there's no real easy way to seal it properly, it's the best I can do and still allow the hatch to be opened. So far none of the tech inspectors at any track I've been to have refused the way it's sealed.

A 4 point roll bar is only good in a street car or 12.00 and slower at the track. It won't pass a tech inspection below 12.0. Actually if the car is 12 seconds and slower you can make the roll bar out of anything you want or install it any way you want. The main purpose of a roll bar is to help stiffen the body. When properly installed it will also keep the roof from being crushed in if the car is in an accident.

When you see fast drag cars crash, very, very, few drivers are seriously hurt while the car can become a total wreck. It all has to do with the proper safety equipment. NHRA has been upgrading the rule requirements for 50 years. They know what works and what doesn't from analizing crashes.

While a 4 point bar offers some protection, the added door bars provides a minimal requirement. The door bars don't have to be welded up solid. Swing out kits are best for street cars so that you can get in and out very easily. I had to install a removable steering wheel just so that I could get into the car while sliding over my door bar. When I got rid of the tilt column I couldn't get into the seat.

The worst thing about any roll bar in a street car is the cross bar. It's used to hold the main hoop from preading and provides a place to attach the 5 point harness and brace a non factory seat. The downside is that in a street car it makes it almost impossible to get into the back seats since you have to climb over or under the cross bar.

grafx

Hey Stephen whats your web address??

CrazyHawaiian

What would you say to someone who was most concerned with chassis strength and safety in the even of a roll-over? Someone who didnt care about backseats or having an NHRA legal/approved cage? I know bigger is usually always better, but for someone who does Auto X or SCCA and just wants the least ammount of chassis flex, what kind of cage would you sudgest? And what would be conidered overkill?

Just curious

AlkyIROC

My web page is listed in my sig above. I usually only put the sig once in a message but here it is again.

Any weld in roll bar or cage will start preventing chassis flex. The more mounting points, braces and tubes, the more it's going to cost.

Overkill? Probably a full tube chassis car or Prostock style cage in a 14 second car. Don't forget that adding more bars also adds more weight.

CrazyHawaiian

OK cool. I was looking into a 10 point crome-moly cage for my 85 SVO. Apparently its a weld in type that does not require any cutting. But I dont know how to weld anyway so .. um yeah ... hmmmmm

Hoping for 275 rwhp 300 rwtq in a 2900 pound car for my first wave of mods. Not sure what it'll run in the 1/4 ... haven't even done a baseline yet (its a drifting car).

fun Pain

if your serious about racing and keeping the car... go the full 10, much easier to put in all at once then add the halo later... trust me...

Process= main hoop fitted > tac in > halo fitted > tac to main hoop > main hoop tac's ground off > fully weld the halo to main hoop > and raise the whole unit/halo-hoop back up and tac in place for the rest of the fitment...

Everyone I know always wants the main hoop as high as possible, cool... but wait till you try to add the halo later.... fuuuuunnnnn times...(not)...then your thinking why....



just posted for search reasons

P.S. I don't believe you REALLY need "subframe connectors" if you make the cage the "right" way.... by "right" I mean you add a bar that runs along the door sill, like a road racing cage and Tie into the foot bar and the main hoop, this isn't a "subframe connector" persay but does the same thing. This is all hingeing on the fact that you make sure that your tied into the front and rear subframes, with the cage mounting points. just my two cents on that

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

you realize this thread is 6 years old right?

fun Pain

yes sir, but most people anymore spend most of there time SEARCH'n and not posting, including me... so the better the search Idea's the better.