Any negative side effects to SFC or STB's?
#1
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Car: 91 G92 Formula, 35k original miles and owner
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 speed
Any negative side effects to SFC or STB's?
for years i've considered both pieces and afte reading the many posts on the forum it sounds like these two pieces are a no brainer to improve steering response and reduce common f-body rattles.
but...are there any negative issues with the use of these pieces?
other han maybe losing a little ground clearance?
lastly, what brands are considered top quality ?
giff
but...are there any negative issues with the use of these pieces?
other han maybe losing a little ground clearance?
lastly, what brands are considered top quality ?
giff
#2
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i never got either of them, even though i know they help i dont know where i could get the sfc's installed around my way..
any way, the negatives for having sfcs is that you can only install them once and hope you dont mess up!!
if you get them on right then everything else is positive...
as for the stb i dont like the fact i have to cut holes to install one, but once installed and you dont have anything hitting it, it will tighten up the strut towers and keep flex away..
i would get sophn sfcs and an edelbrock stb, also you might as well get a wonderbar from global west suspension..
any way, the negatives for having sfcs is that you can only install them once and hope you dont mess up!!
if you get them on right then everything else is positive...
as for the stb i dont like the fact i have to cut holes to install one, but once installed and you dont have anything hitting it, it will tighten up the strut towers and keep flex away..
i would get sophn sfcs and an edelbrock stb, also you might as well get a wonderbar from global west suspension..
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Car: '92 Rally Sport
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Steve claims there is no loss of ground clearance with his SFCs and it certainly looks that way by the pictures.
http://www.spohn.net/images/DriverSide1.JPG
http://www.spohn.net/images/PassSide13.JPG
http://www.spohn.net/images/DriverSide1.JPG
http://www.spohn.net/images/PassSide13.JPG
Last edited by 1MEAN92RS; 11-12-2002 at 11:20 PM.
#4
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I can only say positive things about using SFC's & STB. They do a great job tieghtening up the car. The only negative is the money
you need to spend on the Parts & Installation, not a DIY job for most people.
you need to spend on the Parts & Installation, not a DIY job for most people.
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Car: 92 RS - Fully Restored w/Custom Int
Engine: LO3 with some mods
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Richmond
Absolutely no negative comments about SFC's. Definitely a mod worth doing.
Labor shouldn't cost over $200
Labor shouldn't cost over $200
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Car: 1984 Chevy Camaro
Engine: Built L98
Transmission: T-56 6 speed
the only side effect is that your adding more weight to your car. other then that these mods have no other side effects. They are NESSESARY mods for a thirdgen. Its a night and day difference with teh subframe connectors (drag racing, handling, even daily driving) and even after the STB its alot better. If I didnt already have SFC's I'd pick up a set from SPOHN. As for the STB I'd probably pick up a eldebrock or soemthing.
#7
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I did a lot of research on the same subject, and came to the conclusion that even if there are negatives, the positives are far greater. I have just ordered my Alston SFC's and an Edelbrock three-point STB. So you have to drill a few holes for the STB, the added stability it worth it. Just make sure to go with name-brand stuff and have a good shop weld the SFC's on while that car is on a drive-on lift. The shop I checked with said that the labor to weld on the SFC's would be about $60-$80, not too bad. You are on the right track, keep researching the boards. Good luck.
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
the only thing to remeber, is that if you are really worried about keeping your car STOCK, is that the SFCs are a weld in peice. but i assume that if you are asking that isn't a concern of yours.
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the only thing negative that I would have is that it puts the power to the ground ALOT better which in turn has gave me more wheel hop. but it firms up the ride sooooooo much, I have a STB and SFC's if I ever get anoter f-body its getting them first thing.
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Car: 91 G92 Formula, 35k original miles and owner
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 speed
Thanks for the response !!
It sounds like the installation of the STB's is not as quick/easy as on 4th generation f-body's? Third gen vehicles require some drilling ? can anyone describe exactly what i'll have to do and give me an idea of the time it will take and any special tools i'll need.
thanks,
giff
It sounds like the installation of the STB's is not as quick/easy as on 4th generation f-body's? Third gen vehicles require some drilling ? can anyone describe exactly what i'll have to do and give me an idea of the time it will take and any special tools i'll need.
thanks,
giff
#14
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anything that stiffens or strengthens the chassis is good. my subframes (south side machine) are very tough rectangular tubing....they fit up and sit flush with the bottom of the rocker panels, so there is no clearance problems. I know they make the car stronger, but i didnt really notice a difference because ive never taken a car with a stock chassis but SFC's on it and then drove it....
i installed the cage in the car long before the subframes, and that was a phenomenal difference. i couldnt even believe it. almost elminated chassis flex.
when you weld something structural into your car, its important to take the necessary precautions. put the car on jack stands with the suspension LOADED to simulate the load the stuff your welding in will see. also, while the car is on the stands level it front to back and on all four corners.....because if there is any twist present in the chassis, and you weld in sfc's or a cage, its going to there forever.
i installed the cage in the car long before the subframes, and that was a phenomenal difference. i couldnt even believe it. almost elminated chassis flex.
when you weld something structural into your car, its important to take the necessary precautions. put the car on jack stands with the suspension LOADED to simulate the load the stuff your welding in will see. also, while the car is on the stands level it front to back and on all four corners.....because if there is any twist present in the chassis, and you weld in sfc's or a cage, its going to there forever.
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Car: 91 G92 Formula, 35k original miles and owner
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 speed
any drilling required when installing the sfc on a 3rd generation unit?
giff
giff
#16
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No drilling required if you use a weld on SFC kit......mine are from south side machine, no drilling required.....they have a website too, i think its www.southsidemachine.com
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Car: 2004 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
The Kenny Brown SFC's and Hotchkis STB are the two first things I should of done to my car when I first bought it iver 8 years ago!!!
The weight penalty greatly is dwarfed by the change in the chassis. Mine only weighed 15lbs for the pair and the STB weighs under 10lbs. I think the 25lbs is worth it.
The weight penalty greatly is dwarfed by the change in the chassis. Mine only weighed 15lbs for the pair and the STB weighs under 10lbs. I think the 25lbs is worth it.
#18
To all of you running south side machine sfcs did any of you guys get the kit with the lift bars and everything? I was planning on doing mine shortly with this kit (I hear that it feels like driving a drag car all the time but I dont care) and above I was reading a post stating they are non adjustable and are semi weak and was wondering what you guys are running for power through you car if you have them and how you like them. Thanks James
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Car: 91 G92 Formula, 35k original miles and owner
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 speed
About the issue of "pre-loading" the chasis/suspension prior to welding on SFC's.
How do you do this when putting the vehicle on a lift to weld the parts in? The car will be sitting 6 feet in the air on the sub frame with the wheels-a-hangin' ???
i can definately understand the need to limit any chasis flex/twist as the sfc's are welded on.
giff
How do you do this when putting the vehicle on a lift to weld the parts in? The car will be sitting 6 feet in the air on the sub frame with the wheels-a-hangin' ???
i can definately understand the need to limit any chasis flex/twist as the sfc's are welded on.
giff
#20
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Originally posted by 82Trans Man
To all of you running south side machine sfcs did any of you guys get the kit with the lift bars and everything? I was planning on doing mine shortly with this kit (I hear that it feels like driving a drag car all the time but I dont care) and above I was reading a post stating they are non adjustable and are semi weak and was wondering what you guys are running for power through you car if you have them and how you like them. Thanks James
To all of you running south side machine sfcs did any of you guys get the kit with the lift bars and everything? I was planning on doing mine shortly with this kit (I hear that it feels like driving a drag car all the time but I dont care) and above I was reading a post stating they are non adjustable and are semi weak and was wondering what you guys are running for power through you car if you have them and how you like them. Thanks James
To answer giff, if your gonna lift the car by the subframe on a frame lift, you are going to need to load the suspension somehow.....perhaps with large frame stands or something of that nature. Otherwise there isnt a guarantee you arent gonna run into a loaded chassis when its back on the rubber again. Heres a pick of the subframes at the crossmember and the lift bars....(the brown is undercoating, and the rest of the kit comes powder coated black)
#21
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Car: 91 G92 Formula, 35k original miles and owner
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 speed
Just so i understand - if i use a drive on lift (instead of a frame lift) i can weld them on as the vehicle sits and i should be ok?
thanks for the help.
giff
thanks for the help.
giff
#22
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Originally posted by giff
Just so i understand - if i use a drive on lift (instead of a frame lift) i can weld them on as the vehicle sits and i should be ok?
thanks for the help.
giff
Just so i understand - if i use a drive on lift (instead of a frame lift) i can weld them on as the vehicle sits and i should be ok?
thanks for the help.
giff
#23
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Car: '90 Formula 350
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Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
I bought a pair of Spohns boxed powdercoated SFCs. Shop charged me 140 or 160 I think for welding... but that was welding in SFCs, reallocation brackets, and installing new LCAs for me....
I absolutely love them, no downsides from what I can see.
I absolutely love them, no downsides from what I can see.
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I live at the top of a hill so I take tons of full turns everyday. I think I've read somewhere on these boards that with SFCs you could actually lift a wheel off the ground on steep driveways or something like that. Has anyone experienced this?
I'd love to tighten up my cornering but don't want to be lifting a wheel into the air for more than a split second. I have an open diff too, so I definately don't want my only drive wheel off the ground.
I also back into my steep and lopsided driveway. (I can't really explain the way roads turn or rise.) And I already have trouble doin' that if my tire is wet. Will I have any (more) trouble if I get SFCs? I'd still like them though; there aren't many straight roads in my city, so better cornering would be a blast.
I'd love to tighten up my cornering but don't want to be lifting a wheel into the air for more than a split second. I have an open diff too, so I definately don't want my only drive wheel off the ground.
I also back into my steep and lopsided driveway. (I can't really explain the way roads turn or rise.) And I already have trouble doin' that if my tire is wet. Will I have any (more) trouble if I get SFCs? I'd still like them though; there aren't many straight roads in my city, so better cornering would be a blast.
#25
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
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Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Originally posted by 3rdGenBlackBird
I live at the top of a hill so I take tons of full turns everyday. I think I've read somewhere on these boards that with SFCs you could actually lift a wheel off the ground on steep driveways or something like that. Has anyone experienced this?
I live at the top of a hill so I take tons of full turns everyday. I think I've read somewhere on these boards that with SFCs you could actually lift a wheel off the ground on steep driveways or something like that. Has anyone experienced this?
dont' worry about it, trust me, the SFC's are the BEST mod you can do. period. if you posted that to try to get someone to talk you out of SFC's it isn't going to happen. do note that these 3 wheel park jobs were VERY extreme situations, not your average lopsided driveway. usualy the suspension articulation will keep all 4 tires touching the ground.
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Car: 82 camaro SC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Suspension movement will help if you don't have a rear bar or have a small front and rear sway bars. Mine are both aftermarket. After the SFC install, my old 82 will rock back and forth on 2 wheels when I pull into a steep(at my parents house) driveway. Without the powertrax locker I would roll backwards (posi will get you in the driveway too). So yes, in your case it will be a problem.
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i just orderd Alstons and i will be duplicating spohn SFCs when i can get some rectangular stock. my car seems to be pretty stiff right now, i get 3 wheel action up my friends driveway everytime, but i still hear creaking. i cant wait to get these SFCs in and see what it does.
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Originally posted by tataconka
What are some of the parts needed to put in the SFC, or does it come with the parts you need. Welded style
What are some of the parts needed to put in the SFC, or does it come with the parts you need. Welded style
#31
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Car: 1990 TA
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Transmission: 4L60
Originally posted by SLP IROC-Z
i just orderd Alstons and i will be duplicating spohn SFCs when i can get some rectangular stock. my car seems to be pretty stiff right now, i get 3 wheel action up my friends driveway everytime, but i still hear creaking. i cant wait to get these SFCs in and see what it does.
i just orderd Alstons and i will be duplicating spohn SFCs when i can get some rectangular stock. my car seems to be pretty stiff right now, i get 3 wheel action up my friends driveway everytime, but i still hear creaking. i cant wait to get these SFCs in and see what it does.
The other thing the guy told me (done by a guy who specializes in frames) is that it does not reduce the likelihood of stress cracks on hardtops (contrary to what I was told by other owners). I had one anyway so not too worried.
#32
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Car: 1987 Trans Am
The Spohn subframe connectors are awesome! We had a set welded on Redriaf's car by a muffler shop (they charged like $35, it din't take long at all), and it tightened everything up considerably. The only thing that had to be bolted on with them was at the rear, since they pick up on the rear LCA mounting bolt. Ours were done on a drive-on style lift like most muffler shops have; I didn't feel like jacking the car high enough, and worrying about evenly loading the suspension.
We initially ran an Edelbrock strut tower brace, and while it tightened things up a lot it did hit the hood (clears Camaros ok from what I understand, doesn't clear a stock hood or her aftermarket one either), even after modifying it a good bit. We recently switched to a BMR brace, and I like it a lot better. There is still a slight amount of rubbing (I think her RA1 hood's inner bracing is the problem), but not nearly as much as the Edelbrock.
We initially ran an Edelbrock strut tower brace, and while it tightened things up a lot it did hit the hood (clears Camaros ok from what I understand, doesn't clear a stock hood or her aftermarket one either), even after modifying it a good bit. We recently switched to a BMR brace, and I like it a lot better. There is still a slight amount of rubbing (I think her RA1 hood's inner bracing is the problem), but not nearly as much as the Edelbrock.
#34
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Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA Notchback
Engine: 305ci, 5.0L, TPI, HO
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I put in an Edelbrock 3 Point STB and it rubs a little on the hood. I would definately go with a BMR on a bird. The BMR works nicely in a TPI bird. I will probably switch mine out.
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by 86IROCNJ
Does Spohn have a STB out yet? I did not think so. Not until next year i think i read.
Does Spohn have a STB out yet? I did not think so. Not until next year i think i read.
well what carbed STB will not rub on firebirds hoods?
#40
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What's the harm if it rubs a little- mine does touch barely , but doesn't make noise or anything else harmful. Look on the brite side- there is more support under the hood for all those hOOter girls to climb on.
The only neg thing about STB's and SFC's is the excessive tire wear you get from wanting to drive faster.
The only neg thing about STB's and SFC's is the excessive tire wear you get from wanting to drive faster.
#41
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Engine: 305 TPI (LB9)
Transmission: WC T-5
Originally posted by AGood2.8
...The only neg thing about STB's and SFC's is the excessive tire wear you get from wanting to drive faster.
...The only neg thing about STB's and SFC's is the excessive tire wear you get from wanting to drive faster.
#43
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Engine: 305 TPI (LB9)
Transmission: WC T-5
Originally posted by 86IROCNJ
I thought that was the point? To stiffen the whole car up. People say that the creaks go away!? Guess not?
I thought that was the point? To stiffen the whole car up. People say that the creaks go away!? Guess not?
(tightening up the dash, fixing the window channel, door alignment, etc.)
#44
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Car: 1990 TA
Engine: LB9 305
Transmission: 4L60
Originally posted by 86IROCNJ
I thought that was the point? To stiffen the whole car up. People say that the creaks go away!? Guess not?
I thought that was the point? To stiffen the whole car up. People say that the creaks go away!? Guess not?
#45
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
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Originally posted by 86IROCNJ
I thought that was the point? To stiffen the whole car up. People say that the creaks go away!? Guess not?
I thought that was the point? To stiffen the whole car up. People say that the creaks go away!? Guess not?
then you get slight rattles... but they can be tightened and you're done..
think of it like this... lets say the dash... for years its been twisted slightly and its now loose... now you have your SFCs on and all the twisty creaky noises are gone... and now you notice a slight rattle of the dash...
just tighten the dash, or put new felt between plastic parts, ect... and one by one you can now elimanate any remaining rattles.
then you're done and creak free.
#46
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Got ya! I do not have sub frame connectors so i can not be the judge of that. I have always heard that is how it goes though. I thought that post was to mean something else, like create other problems or road noise, something like that. later guys
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