Fast3rdGen

i am buying solid motor and tranny mounts for my car but i just want your guys' experience with them if you have any. i personally have rode in a car and felt the difference after switching to solid mounts and it felt like a totally different car(77 camaro). i can live with the choppy idle shaking the car (hell it does it now with my brand new rubber ones) i was just wanting to hear some more comments' i'll be going to jegs after my next pay check to get them probably.

SteveSpohn

Nothing wrong with solid motor mounts, but do NOT run a solid transmission mount, you want to stay poly back there or you'll wind up with a cracked case on your tranny.

Steve

MdFormula350

definitely dont want a cracked case!

Fast3rdGen

oh really? hmmmm so could i sue moroso for telling me to run sollid motor mounts with their solid tranny mount? they say thay you will break the case if you don't run the motor mounts with the tranny mount.

RICH92RS350

I've run the Moroso solid motor and trans mounts for years.
Never cracked a case and the mounts are still good as new.
-Rich-

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Just another example of some guys can and some guys can't, my Bro-in-law has gone through 2 trannies that had solid mounts all around, and his buddy 3. Smae guy built all 5, well actually 10 trannies and finally asked WTF was going on, the bulider said never to run solid tranny mounts or "this" is the result. I've heard solid up front and rubber/poly trans mount for quite awhile now. Oh, and the 2 guys have'nt broken a case since they switched to poly mounts on the trans. My 2 cents.

AlkyIROC

I run solid engine and tranny mounts and have never broken a case yet. This winter the solid engine mounts come out and a front motor plate goes in.

Who has those pics of a motor plate? I want to see them again.

2laneblacktop

I too run solid motor and tranny mounts. I haven't had a problem yet. The "works for some not for others" is very true in all aspects of cars. The solid mounts will shake the hell out of you though, I do know that.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I've been tryin to come up with some "theory" as to why, I remember it was roughly explained once, but I really was'nt paying much attention, u know how that goes. My Bro-in-law's Regal I can assume that since it's a full framed car, BUT he chesse dicked it by only welding his 8 point to the body, that somehow when he launches the chasis tweaks one way, and it might be just enough variance or bending occuring in the chasis between the motor mounts and the tranny mount to cause his tailshaft cracking dilema. Now on the other hand the other guy runs a 3rd gen, back halfed with the cage tying the entire car together, so in his case, I can't come up with a reason why, just know it happened 3 times. Maybe he was just the "lucky one" those days picking out new trannies and they might of had hairline cracking or something that got irritated with the stresses of 5K launches, who knows.
Another guy from our group, down at nationals, ran great the 2 days before the "big show" and come Sunday was going over everything and had cracked his TH400 from the pass bolt 1 up from the bottom bolt, all the way through the bell housing and stopping just past the half way point-it was a BIG crack too. We scrammbled trying to find a tranny at the event, made some calls and could'nt get one till 1p.m., trying talking officials into him running the wifes car-that did'nt jive, so he dailed an 11.00-usually runs mid 6's and was hopeing to be parred up with a Super Pro and maybe push him out or cause a red light by gettin antsey-did'nt work, he races a modified class guy, cut a .9 something light, then went on to run only .01 off the dail by feathering it and watching the other guy. Funny, but it was'nt, felt bad for him going all the way down there and breakin, but anyone who races, and we won't say names (Stephen) knows that come year end parts are on the ragged edge as it is, so the last few races of the year naturally produce the most carniage.

383backinblack

*** love you guys if you run solid mounts on the street. ive never broken my mounts before, i have the energy suspension polyurethane ones, much much less flex than rubber, much tougher, but without the harsh vibration of solid mounts.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

That's the same set-up I runnin right now also, I do think before next season I'm gonna turn buckle the engine to the chasis to help eliminate some tweaking and power robbing though, then I need to get the rear suspension tuned, everybody says I'm losin out on 60' times by "almost" pullin my tire-my 1 measily driver side tire, I'm gettin there. The little motor that tries.
Was thinkin of runnin bro-in-laws old motor he was runnin high 11's with, but I need at least a 4500 stall, and he was running 4.56 gears w/28" slicks cause he put a "stick shift" Isky cam in it-they sent the wrong one and he decided to try it against everybody's approval, ran 12.3's with the 4.11's and once he stuck the 4.56 in dropped to 11.70's. That's another thread though-sorry.

AlkyIROC

I'm following a similar topic on a racing forum. Most of the cars are 8-10 second cars and dragsters. It seems to be an equal amount who recommend using a solid mount or a poly mount. Even with a front and rear motor plate they can still break the tranny case when using a solid mount.

I think that if your car doesn't have a lot of body or chassis twist when launching then a solid mount will work fine. If the car twists then a poly mount should be used.

You could also just use a solid tranny mount and if you break a case, get a new tranny and install a poly mount.

If I don't break something during the season then I must not be racing.

laiky

Think about it, a cast iron block bolted to a cast alluminum tranny case. they are very rigid and don't take kindly to flex. You solidly mount this in a car that flexes as bad as a stock fbody and their probably going to have a disagreement. Add SFC's a cage and a frame and suddenly the chassis is stiff enough to not flex, the breakage issue is gone. i know its not so simple but thos running them successfully are probably doing so with frame upgrades or a little luck.

personally, i just traded my urethane for cheapo rubber. the FBody Motor mounts are captured in there brackets. Besides a little movement there is no where for the motor to go. If you run a dedicated race car i can see solid or urethane, in my case i drive 50 plus miles a day in traffic so the lack of vibration and noise is a plus, besides i needed the extra hood clearance for my performer RPM