Possible problem with brake hub for brake upgrade
#1
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Possible problem with brake hub for brake upgrade
I am gathering all the parts for my LS1 brake upgrade, after taking a closer look at my hub I got machined about a year ago I noticed that the wheel stud knurl diameter is larger then stock. I guess the rotors that I turned down used different size knurl diameter then stock. My main concern with the bigger hole is the strength of the hub.
Here are the measurements:
Stock Knurl Diameter: about .500 inches or 12.7mm
My Hub’s Knurl Diameter: .575 inches or 14.6 mm
Distance from stud whole to edge of hub: .3 inches or 7.62mm
Below is a picture of the stud that came with my rotors (left), the stock stud (right), and the hole size. Do you think there is too little material around the stud hole.
Here are the measurements:
Stock Knurl Diameter: about .500 inches or 12.7mm
My Hub’s Knurl Diameter: .575 inches or 14.6 mm
Distance from stud whole to edge of hub: .3 inches or 7.62mm
Below is a picture of the stud that came with my rotors (left), the stock stud (right), and the hole size. Do you think there is too little material around the stud hole.
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I would be tempted to redrill the hub for the stock size knurls. I agree that the ones that came with that hub may not leave enough material. This is even more so being that the hubs are cast.
I've been wondering if the stock 'vette hubs (such as C4's are forged or not).
RBob.
I've been wondering if the stock 'vette hubs (such as C4's are forged or not).
RBob.
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Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
I personally don't see a problem with the thinness. Reason being that the studs you are using have a larger head on the backside than the .500 knurk stud do. That head flange areawill prevent the studs from pulling through in the unlikely event that the hub cracks for the stud holes to the outer edges. I would use them, however, I would inspect them after a short inteval of use (5k miles.)
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Car: 96 Caprice, 86 IROC
Engine: One has an LT1, one has an empty bay
Transmission: T56
I am confused. I thought that your hubs were just stock rotors that you had turned down. In that case, why did they touch the holes for your wheelstuds? Wouldn't you just want to use stock wheelstuds (or longer but otherwise the same replacements).
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
That looks like a noticable difference in the knurls but I haven't noticed that much of a difference in the studs I replace the stock ones with (Dormans). I only have to drill the hubs to install ARP studs and I don't think there should be that much of a difference in them.
Ed
(I hope that made sense...it's early...)
Ed
(I hope that made sense...it's early...)
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Originally posted by Mike454SS
I am confused. I thought that your hubs were just stock rotors that you had turned down. In that case, why did they touch the holes for your wheelstuds? Wouldn't you just want to use stock wheelstuds (or longer but otherwise the same replacements).
I am confused. I thought that your hubs were just stock rotors that you had turned down. In that case, why did they touch the holes for your wheelstuds? Wouldn't you just want to use stock wheelstuds (or longer but otherwise the same replacements).
Ed, have you ever seen larger knurl studs on any of the rotors you turn down?
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Ed, have you ever seen larger knurl studs on any of the rotors you turn down?
Ed
Last edited by ebmiller88; 07-29-2004 at 10:09 AM.
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