TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Most rollcage kits aren't legal if you use stock seats and are a taller guy...your helmet is higher than the cage..Thats a NO NO also... I know my helmet is very close to the TTOPs with stock seats so mine is more for strength anyway..

Here is a link to my pics...

http://www.team3rdgen.com/modules.ph...bum.php&page=3

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

more...

mcwille

this is a little outta place i might start a new thread, but i want a roll cage but i have a after market notchback. Now the bars that go back about where should i put them to clear the notch? anyone with a notch have any roll cage pics??

mcwille

here is the notch from the side... where would i weld the back bars to clear that? and what would be the best setup to run?

iansane

iTrader: (1)

I'd guess you'd have to do it just like most of the vert guys moving the rearward bars farther to the front of the gas tank area.

Spdfrk1990

Kandied I was wondering if your door bar went under your arm rest or did it go between the arm rest and the seat. With my sparcos there just isnt enough room and I was thinking of going under the arm rest. Did you have a bar on the floor also or was that it and did you have room to keep you interior trim that was there for the seatbelts. Thanks

Kenwood

iTrader: (1)

As far as a pic of a cage that can have back seats I have pics of the cage...Mine have back seats still in tact...BUT they are UNUSABLE as it would be a DEATH WISH to the person riding in it... On my soap box..You put someone in the back seat of a Caged car you and the rider are F&$^%^ING idiots...

I kept my seats for LOOKS...I hate the rear seat missing look...

My cage is NHRA CERTIFIED TO 7.50 and slower... I still have back seats and full interior...

I dont have finished pics on line but here is a link to the pics of the fab work..

http://www.efpwperformance.com/files.../SeanCage.html

Xceleratemaro

5678TA

this is my setup
competition engineering 10point without the door bars..

Shagwell

ahh, bringing a good post back from the dead.
5678TA - tyring to decide on the height of the side bars? - just remember that to be NHRA legal they have to be between the height of your shoulder and you elbow as the pass you sitting in the car.

here's links to mine(again)
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...questions.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...sion-swap.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...y-tire-no.html

5678TA

thanks for the links shagwell.. i was thinking about a rim and tire combo as well.. its like you read my mind..

Shagwell

5678TA - no problem. You'll have to do some minor work to get the 11 wides in the back though. Nothing drastic, just trim the bumstop a little bit. If your ride height is any lower the tires may contact the wheel well lip though...

- My cage is homemade(like the rest of my chassis & suspension). Money, plus I couldn't find one that tucked tight enough to the roof line to look right when the top is down. - I wanted the cage to be square with/at the same angle as the a-pillar, so that when seen from behind it fit the car.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Shagwell, did you say that yours was certified legal to 7.50? Do you have pics of your side bars (I’m not seeing anything but the low slung ones)

Shagwell

Mark - no, mine's not certified. The bent side bar won't certify as an 8-point, and I think you have to have a halo to cert 7.50. I know I have to to cert 7.50 in a vert. I'm required a minimum of a 6 point at faster than 13.00.
- That's what keeps me from running at many tracks. I refuse to put a full side bar in a street car. This thing was my daily driver up till I started the rebuild. I'm shooting for high 10's all motor and then we'll see what the juice does.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Huh, must have been someone else in one of these threads… I could have sworn that someone mentioned having it “certified to 7.50” in their daily driver and I was wondering how that was even possible to live with.

As far as I can tell you just need to go halo(or front bars)/10pt for up to 8.50, and then past there you have to go chrome molly and design depends on what category you fit in.

I’m about 6’4” and 300#, and working on a drivetrain that should make more then enough power to go 9.99, but it’s going in a car that is mostly a driver (which is saying a lot since when it’s running it sees the track almost every weekend).

Because of the power it makes no sense to do a 5 or 6 point, because I’ll end up with something that I won’t be able to have fun with, but because of my size and the street use I’m trying to find some reasonable compromise (door bars are illegal on the street in MD).

The thought I was having was something like your low slung bars with another bar running along the rocker (or maybe even behind under the floor), and then doing a bolt in swing out of sorts to go above it (sort of seeing how far I can push the swing out thing since it appears that to make them legal the trick seems to be that they need to be built like they are at least somewhat permanent, where I need them out when the car is on the street and a quick drop in for when I’m at the track).

Shagwell

yeah, someone else said there's was 7.50 cert. - You don't have to use moly to cert 7.50, but if it's mild steel it has to be a thicker wall than moly. I personally won't run moly. Dollars vs. sense. - Moly fatigues. Why do you think Pro-stockers want new chassis' all the time? The use moly, which is lighter because its stronger, therefore allowed to be thinner wall. Old pipe starts moving around. Especially street driven. I can't afford throwing my car away and building a new one every "x" miles because of fatigue.
- I'd build a swing-out bar that's removeable. Most techs won't hit you for it on a street driven car.

Shagwell

a couple more views of mine. How/where I tucked the bars for the vert, and more of the side bar and its brace.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Well, it actually looks like it was Kenwood from further up in this thread, which has me very confused since I was under the impression that you pretty much had to go 25.2 to be legal for under 8.50 and his pics just look like a normal 10 pt…

KillerRS

heres mine, 100% custom. i built it around the deadliner and rear interior plastics

5678TA

nice job KillerRS.. how you gonna make the dash??? that crossbar on the front down bars is gonna get in the way..

Shagwell

You can get the dash in around that with just some minor trimming, but I don't think his a/c ducts are gonna have it...
- for certification he needs that front pipe...

- looks good. I like the way you did your rear bars, then tieing the x-brace over the shock mounts. - I noticed you did the front down legs as one piece, then tied them to the main hoop via seperate bars - any reason for this? Looks like it'd take a lot more work/proper measuring and bending than a conventional "U" halo and seperate down legs. Also, is that mild steel or moly? can't really tell from pics...

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

You know, I’ve looked at the pics in a bunch of different ways and I can’t tell what he did with the halo… it almost looks like there’s a separate side, front and down bar coming together there, not a halo or a front hoop with side bars, can’t tell.

The crossbar shouldn’t be necessary unless the firewall ends up modified/cut out…

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I do like the crossed down bars to the sock mounts, but I also wonder what the long straight bars are really accomplishing (unless it’s just some extra security if you get into an accident or to mount a chute crossbar)... hum, looking at it, maybe this is intended for a road race car?

Shagwell

.....now that you mention it, it does kinda look that way. ?

plumminfool

Snksknr, would you re post those pics of your CE cage before the interior was installed? For some reason, i cant pull them up. Thanks.

89_ho_rs

how about another resurection. anyone else have any pics of their cages? I am redoing mine and want some good ideas for the back bars.

stiletto

Shagwell

Resurect away, as often as bars/cages get asked about this thread should be a sticky anyhow. - With the addition of the Fabrication forum since this thread's incepetion, it might be better suited there though.

Here's a link to my outlaw camaro. It's technically 25.2, but not legal/certifiable due to being MS not CM. I will not run moly for a cage, especially in a heavier car.
http://s455.photobucket.com/albums/q...tlaw%20camaro/

AlkyIROC

That funny car cage looks good but should have a kidney bar. Tube that runs under the vertical bar on the door bar and goes back to the main hoop.

stiletto

those pictures were before the chassis was done, it does have a kidney bar.

stiletto

Shagwell

The kidney bar is one of a few more tubes I will be adding to mine when the blower motor goes in. Besides, we here at Captain Morgan racing don't have any kidneys left to protect.

Stiletto - looks like it's home?

Justin 87 GTA

iTrader: (3)

is there any way to weld in the rear bars with the fuel tank in??? or does it have to be dropped.

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

Ive done a few with the tanks in.

stage20

iTrader: (3)

welded mine up with a full tank of gas.

some say hell no, but the folks that do it properly there is no harm.
youd have to do something out of the ordinary to cause trouble, IMO.

Justin 87 GTA

iTrader: (3)

hmmn, what do u mean by properly, full tank no oxygen, is that the idea?

stage20

iTrader: (3)

no, just being silly.
some people will drain their tanks before welding.
doubt its needed.
paranoia.