How to remove keyed lug nut?
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Car: '88 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
How to remove keyed lug nut?
I have an '88 Trans Am w/ wheel lock lug nuts. Years ago, my dad didn't put the key on the lug all the way and partially stripped the key. Well I went to check the brakes last night and the key stripped the rest of the way.
Obviously, the best solution would be to get a new key, but I have no idea what the model # is or anything. If I remember correctly, my dad's buddy actually got the set from a late-80's Bonneville. I also thought about making a key from an old socket, but I don't know if I could cut it precisely enough or if it would be strong enough.
I could drill the studs out or grind down the lug nut, but that would take forever. A cutting wheel would be a lot faster and easier (I would cut the lug down the center so it would break into 2 semi-circular pieces) but one slip and it would gash the rim. Can anybody think of a way to protect the rim? Does anybody have any other ideas?
Here's a pic -- each wheel has 1 locking lug nut and the rest are just regular lugs.
Obviously, the best solution would be to get a new key, but I have no idea what the model # is or anything. If I remember correctly, my dad's buddy actually got the set from a late-80's Bonneville. I also thought about making a key from an old socket, but I don't know if I could cut it precisely enough or if it would be strong enough.
I could drill the studs out or grind down the lug nut, but that would take forever. A cutting wheel would be a lot faster and easier (I would cut the lug down the center so it would break into 2 semi-circular pieces) but one slip and it would gash the rim. Can anybody think of a way to protect the rim? Does anybody have any other ideas?
Here's a pic -- each wheel has 1 locking lug nut and the rest are just regular lugs.
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Car: '88 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Here's another pic. Of course I plan on removing the black plastic center piece of the rim to get a little more room to work in there.
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Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70
You could always just go to a local dealer or Firestone and have them take them off for you for a small fee. They have master sets.
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Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 406ci
Transmission: Tremec 3550
They /should/ have master sets, the two Pontiac and 3 GM dealerships in my area did not have them, and I could not get them removed without damaging the wheel. I got some old acorn lug nuts, a welder, and welded them on the end of the keyed nuts for a one time removal and disposal.
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Car: '91 bird '87 Z28 '86 T/A
Engine: LO3 LG4(ls1 in works) 350
Transmission: 700R in all
Axle/Gears: wimpy 10 bolts
i had the same problem with my old fiero. i didnt know about the dealer master set, so i found a socket with the multiple grooves about the size of a lug nut and ****-eyed it on the lug just a bit and twisted it write off with no damage to stud or wheel. just my .02.... p.s. use a crappy socket just in case it breaks
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
hammer a 19mm (?) socket over it
that's what I did for all four of mine.
that's what I did for all four of mine.
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#8
Originally posted by KintaroOe
...so i found a socket with the multiple grooves about the size of a lug nut and ****-eyed it on the lug just a bit and twisted it write off with no damage to stud....
...so i found a socket with the multiple grooves about the size of a lug nut and ****-eyed it on the lug just a bit and twisted it write off with no damage to stud....
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Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Originally posted by Token
hammer a 19mm (?) socket over it
that's what I did for all four of mine.
hammer a 19mm (?) socket over it
that's what I did for all four of mine.
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Car: '88 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by L69norm
There's a special socket called a lock nut removal tool. It has a left hand thread in it. Screws on over the lock nut, bites down and spins it off. It's about $5.00. Most autoparts places should be able to get one for you.
There's a special socket called a lock nut removal tool. It has a left hand thread in it. Screws on over the lock nut, bites down and spins it off. It's about $5.00. Most autoparts places should be able to get one for you.
And for the same reason, I can't get a 19mm socket to fit over it either. I even tried beating it on w/ a 4lb sledge hammer. I can beat a 13/16 on it, but it doesn't hold well enough to turn it.
We have an electric welder, but we've never used it. And I don't think working in a tight space around expensive aluminum rims is a good place to start. We have an acetylene torch, but that would be even worse!
We also checked w/ a couple dealerships yesterday for master sets... no dice.
Someone suggested cutting into it w/ a chisel and beating it at an angle so it would spin, but all it did was cut across the top of the nut. So I tried a punch instead and the top of the nut just bent back.
So we're gonna call a few more tire places today, and my dad's friend has a couple of old GM locking lug nut sets in his garage. So maybe I'll get lucky and we'll find a match.
I also have a small metal working project that needs electric welding... I've kinda been putting it off till I have more time, but it's a good thing to practice on. Maybe I'll see how it goes and, if I feel comfortable w/ it, I'll try welding something to the nut.
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Car: 91 Firebird Dark Green
Engine: 350 Victor Jr. 2V 2000 CFM TB EFI
Transmission: 700R4 BM 2500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Zexel torque sensing Posi
locking lug removal
NAPA sells a special socket designed to be hammered on. It made of a hardened alloy that cuts into the lug and has a left hand flut so as you turn it counter clock it digs in more. It's not dirt cheap and it ruins the locking lug, but it does work. Let me know if the local can't come up with the number the 1 in balkamp is cheaper than the one in NTP (NAPA Tire Hardware). hope this helps.
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Car: 1991 Pontiac ta 5.0l 2005 pontiac gxp 5.3l ls4 dod 2003 GMC Envoy 4.2l
I took a dril bit same size as hole drilled the center just to get a center point. Then took about a 1-4th drill bit drilled the center of the stud out. Then I took a drill that I started with and drilled the rest out. Keep drill oiled and make sure you don't fun drill to fast. Don't want to heat up and get hard spot. This only works if your going to replace stud or rotors. Didn't take long to do it takes longer to gather the tools.
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Car: '88 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Well I finally got this taken care of last night. My dad's friend only had 3 keys and none of them fit, but he had a 25/32 12pt Craftsman socket -- that's a pretty rare socket and I didn't wanna ruin it, but it was the best of the remaining ideas.
So I hammered it on and it gripped pretty well. I took the 1st lug off and then I used the vise to get the lug out of the socket. I closed the vise enough that the nut would fit thru but the socket wouldn't. It was a 1/2" drive socket, so I used a 3/8" extension to pound the nut out. As it turned out, I was better off using a good quality socket -- the pts inside the socket cut into the nut, so the nut gave way but the socket was barely damaged. I did all 4 lugs the same way.
So I hammered it on and it gripped pretty well. I took the 1st lug off and then I used the vise to get the lug out of the socket. I closed the vise enough that the nut would fit thru but the socket wouldn't. It was a 1/2" drive socket, so I used a 3/8" extension to pound the nut out. As it turned out, I was better off using a good quality socket -- the pts inside the socket cut into the nut, so the nut gave way but the socket was barely damaged. I did all 4 lugs the same way.
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Car: '92 RS Camaro
Engine: 406ci D1SC SBC
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" W/Truetrac
Originally posted by 91blkta
I took a dril bit same size as hole drilled the center just to get a center point. Then took about a 1-4th drill bit drilled the center of the stud out. Then I took a drill that I started with and drilled the rest out. Keep drill oiled and make sure you don't fun drill to fast. Don't want to heat up and get hard spot. This only works if your going to replace stud or rotors. Didn't take long to do it takes longer to gather the tools.
I took a dril bit same size as hole drilled the center just to get a center point. Then took about a 1-4th drill bit drilled the center of the stud out. Then I took a drill that I started with and drilled the rest out. Keep drill oiled and make sure you don't fun drill to fast. Don't want to heat up and get hard spot. This only works if your going to replace stud or rotors. Didn't take long to do it takes longer to gather the tools.
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Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
When I had my car in to get the tires changed, I left my key at home. The guy I know at the shop said he had a few things they could try, and the first option worked. It was a socket that had a left-hand cutting thread in it (as mentioned above), and zipped the lug right off with an impact. Amazingly, it didn't damage the lug either. I'd like to convert over to the 7-point stainless/titanium lugnuts one of these days, but if you ever lose that key, good luck finding something that will work on a 7-point, lol
#18
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
lol go figure, the day after I post about it I get a blow-out on my buick with locking lugs. Too bad I couldnt find my lock. I ended up getting it off on the side of the highway with a wrench actually.
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Car: '89 Flame red metallic GTA!!
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Originally posted by Karps TA
You could always just go to a local dealer or Firestone and have them take them off for you for a small fee. They have master sets.
You could always just go to a local dealer or Firestone and have them take them off for you for a small fee. They have master sets.
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Car: '89 Flame red metallic GTA!!
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Originally posted by L69norm
There's a special socket called a lock nut removal tool. It has a left hand thread in it. Screws on over the lock nut, bites down and spins it off. It's about $5.00. Most autoparts places should be able to get one for you.
There's a special socket called a lock nut removal tool. It has a left hand thread in it. Screws on over the lock nut, bites down and spins it off. It's about $5.00. Most autoparts places should be able to get one for you.
In short, I don't know which auto parts store you went to cause I sure as hell would like to buy something for only $5 (+ shipping and handling) that would solve this issue as soon as it gets here!
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