fastsprtcupe_82

Ok heres my delema. I wanna make a fast street car, my camaro is fast but i wanna go faster. We have a 1965 Impala that i was going to build up a motor for and make it a semi pro street but it needs alot of work. Then i started thinking how much my camaro take. Of course im gonna put a 8 point roll cage in it but i dont know the strenth of a F-Body. My motor is going to be pushing 470 horse with 480 torque out of a 350 Small Block. Suggestions???

rik89gta

With Your aformentioned power, I believe Ur chassis should be plenty good! I've seen 3rd gen f bodies runnin low 9's with somewhere near 700-800 to the rear wheels.

AlkyIROC

A cage and SFC can go a long way. My car is far from street legal but it's still basically a factory car converted into a race car. Doors still open and close, T-tops can still be removed. No body cracks. My car puts about 700 hp to the wheels.

As for how much power, the body/chassis can take a lot but it takes more than just building a high hp engine. The rest of the driveline needs to be also upgraded to take the extra power.

systalis

Shouldn't sfc's be enough for 470 horses, unless he likes the look of a roll cage?

AlkyIROC

Normally SFC are enough for street driving. A simple 6 or 8 point roll bar with swing out door bars will make street use easier although access to the rear seats is very restrictive. Although not required at the track, even a 13 second car will notice a difference with a roll bar.

A full cage isn't needed until you reach the ET limits where you require one. getting in and out of a full cage car isn't something you want to do in a street car.

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

Isn't the swing out arms illegal at the track though?

AlkyIROC

Never have been

Shagwell

Put in some good sfc's, lca relocates, lca's, even a good torque arm. Then go from there with driveline upgrades. There's plenty of "factory suspension" class cars running over 750hp...

swing outs are legal till something like 7.50. -
13.99 or faster requires a minimum of a 6-point in a vert....... I thought so, then got thrown out and knew so......

88IROC350TPI

my suspension and chassis is completely stock. The only thing I've done is remove both front and rear sway bars. I feel as if my car is in no way over powered. I can barely even spin the tires from a roll and my car has never once had "serious" traction problems... The suspension in these cars is pretty good if you wanna replace stuff just keep it as simple as possible. The less "adjustable" things you buy the less things you'll have to play with and get out-of-whack.

I hope to be needing a rollbar by next weekend.....

fastsprtcupe_82

I like roll cages but i dont want to rip apart my interior cause it lookes pretty nice and if i were going to build it up i would rip every thing out of the car including the back seat and all the panels and everything that makes it comfortable to cut down on weight

slowfast

im going to upgrade my suspension soon because Im upgrading the motor from a 150 hp lg4 to a 450 hp 355

THE NATS

88IROC350TPI

nope... Island Dragway is over 100 miles away from me so that puts it out of my 100 mile free-towing AAA radius. I don't own a trailer and breaking at Island would equal one expensive tow ride home.

brutalform

Yes, but with AAA Plus, you will still get the FIRST 100 miles free, but you would be charged for any additional miles after that. 120 miles, you would have to pay for the extra 20 out of pocket. Still a good deal to me.

rat infested

I have lost where we were going with this but I'd like to know what stephen 87iroc has in the way of suspension mods as I am now starting to suffer keeping my car in a straight line with No sfc'c and no Rollcage! yes yes I know

brutalform

Rat infested, do you have any pics of your car?

rat infested

I have a few I'll try to post them I;m a bit new at this game !!!! a bit of a Technophobe !!

AlkyIROC

All you have to do is click on the link to my web site. Just about every piece of information is there. At least the basics are there. Little things like suspension settings etc depend on each vehicle. It's like asking if a 2" carb spacer will help an engine. Yes and no. It depends on what the engine likes. Same goes for suspension settings. My ladder bars were angled down so soften the tire hit. At the start of this year, I brought them up to the anti-squat line and changed my rear shock settings from softest to firmest. I now have the above the anti-squat line trying to get more weight transfer for my nose heavy car. They're all tuning aids so what works well on one car or track, may not work for another.

A few years ago when I only needed a 6 point roll bar, I was using a Spohn torque arm and some tubular LCA and panhard bars. I made some LCA relocation brackets and had the back of the bars lower than the front. After a season, I noticed the floor around the back of the tranny tunnel and under the area of the passenger rear seat was all wrinkled. That was all the forces pushing forward by the LCA. I installed ladder bars shortly after that and have never had any new wrinkles anywhere in the floor or body. My SFC join the front and rear sub frames but the LCA front mount is only attached to the sheetmetal floor not the subframe.

Now with a 10 point cage built to 12 point specs (no forward bars through the firewall) plus sill bars, my car is very rigid.

rat infested

Fantastic website I really liked the link about torque and horsepower (someone knows thier stuff) I looked at your pics to see the SFC's but can't it would seem that you have the same problem as me the Exhaust collectors come across the line of the front and rear subframes and will not allow installation of either of the 2 sets of sfc's I have bought for this car as although made for a 3rd gen 95% of people run a small block which has collectors exiting next to the tranni !! Does anyone know how to attach photos I can't find the URL !!!! of my picture !!!!(help)

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Click on the "manage attachments" button in the reply window. Before you do that though, resize the picture so it isn't too big to upload, make sure you save your original too.

rat infested

Thanx I'll try that

AlkyIROC

Try to keep the size 600 wide or less.

My exhaust and collectors are huge. My primary tubes are 2-1/4" and the collectors are 4". They actually exit below the side of the tranny. My tranny crossmember is custom made and I had to modify it so the collectors would clear. I was scarping the bottom of my collectors exiting my garage. I've since cut the collectors back about 4", welded on two 90* elbows so they angle upward as they go out to the rockers where my race mufflers are mounted. There's also some cutting and hammer work on the front subframe for the primary tubes to clear. My engine has been positioned back and as low as I can get it. I flipped the center link to get the engine down farther and it sits back about an inch from stock. The only thing from preventing me from moving the engine back any more is the front subframe. It tapers inwards behind the engine and the headers are wedged up to the frame rails. Using a front motor plate instead of side engine mounts allowed me to position the engine exactly where it fit the best. I cut out the front part of the tranny tunnel and made it larger to access the bellhousing bolts and to give room for the flexplate and tranny shield. There's still not enough room. I'm going to make a removable tranny tunnel this winter.

I have no good pictures of my SFC. The car is still sitting up on jack stands so maybe I can get some new pictures of the underside before I put it back on the ground.

rat infested

I don't know if these will come out ?? OH I GIVE UP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Send whatever pics you want to put up and I'll post them for ya if you want. bdr82z28@gmail.com

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for the delay of getting these up (have any bigger ones? hehe) went to the track today.

brutalform

Nice ride Rat... Pretty easy finding all the hot rod parts over there in England?

quick ones

85 firebird 3600lbs blown BBc glide southside bars and sfc full cage art morrison coilover tubular a arms 12 bolt 10.5" not tubbed, not a street car but basically still the way it came from the factory 9.09@149.99