OkanaganIroc

I went on a road trip last weekend and did some heavy cornering. this week I would hear a clunk or the sound of two peices of metal hitting each other when the car went over a bump on the left side. I just pulled the rear whell and discouvered the sway-bar link was broken and the broken end was hitting the swaybar, thus creating the noise.
I have two links on order (may as well change both sides) Is there a specific way to set these up? do I just make them the same as the old ones or is there another way to install them properly?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

They have them hanging on cards in the "performance" aisle at VatoZone; just saw them there a few minutes ago; what did you have to order?

All you need to do is tighten them until the rubber parts are about the same diameter as the washers, or maybe just slightly larger.

OkanaganIroc

Opps, you're right. I just called lordco (Western Canada's version of Autozone) and they're there for 1/2 of what the dealer's are and they have Polyurathane bushings to boot!

OkanaganIroc

I installed them this evening. Took me an houe to get the rusted remains of the broken one off the car using my dremel tool and a chisel to split the nut on the top. They seemed to be a little longer (1/2") but fit just fine.
Here's the price difference:
GM: 20$ each
Moog: 12.50 each
Energy suspension with Poly bushings: 18.00 for the pair.

Another thing I noticed are the Energy suspension pieces are slightly larger diameter and plated for corrosion portection. The old ones fatigued from corrosion. One was rusted right through and broke in half, the other was almost there so it was a good thing I decided to change both. I might be checking the fronts now too.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

You car is 20 years old, so no surprise there. You might consider examining the car's underside. I'd guess most of the OE rubber bushings are shot or certainly on they're way.

JamesC

OkanaganIroc

Actally the bushings thaty came off the old links were surpisingly in good shape. maybe they were changed before I bought the car but then again that was 13 years ago. Maybe it's the dry climate up here?
One interesting thing as well. The links that I bought were for the front sway bar and the spacer was just a tad longer (about an inch or so) but they fit right in. In retrospect should I have shortened the spacer or should I just leave it at that?

OkanaganIroc

Another thought. I think the bushings on the links that I removed were poly bushings (yellow color) If those aren't the originals maybe the links aren't either. Could somebody tell me the proper height (length) of the stock GM link spacer? It's the tube that sits in beteen the bushing between the chassis bracket and the swaybar

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Many members have reported having stock poly, including me.

JamesC

ProjectX

I am experiencing the same type of noise that you are describing. Did the noise stop while you were applying the brakes (I dont mean at a full stop, but while slowing down)? The noise is driving me crazy, so Im hoping this is the problem. Thanks.

OkanaganIroc

The metal on metal noise that I was getting was only ocasionally when I would hit a pretty good sized bump on the left. If you are getting a noise from your rear that dissapears when you apply the brakes perhaps it has to do with the brakes. Do you have disks in the back? I had a simular noise with my rear disk brakes. Turns out the pads were a little loose and would rattle a bit in the rear calipers.
Then again the only way to see if your link is broken it to pull the wheel and see for yourself,

rmmstnr

I had to replace my endlinks not long ago. I don't remember any noise, I just happened to be looking under the car and noticed the driver's side endlink on the rear was no longer connected to the swaybar (most of it anyway) . Damn thing was so rusted I spent who-knows-how-long slowly cutting the rest off with a hacksaw blade in my gloved hands. It was damn hot, took forever and a buttload of WD-40, but at least it was cheap (about $10 I think) and the passenger side was easy. Looking back it was almost fun.

ProjectX

The noise isnt coming from the rear, its up front on the driver side. It sounds too light to be a brake pad....but Ill check that too. I hear the noise when Im driving on bumpy roads or when I hit a pot hole...as long as its a smooth ride, I dont hear it.

jayg

I was wondering the same. I just replaced mine and they were longer than stock.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

IIRC, the sleeve length is supposed to be 2 5/8 inches.

JamesC

OkanaganIroc

That's funny, The ones I took off where only 2 1/4" long. I'll measure the ones I put on the car, maybe they're not too long after all.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

In the grand scheme of things, that 3/8" is a little bit of nothing.

Think about it.... if you put some extra stereo equipment in your car, it would change the ride height by that much; and your "optimum" end link length would change right along with it. Hell it changes MORE THAN THAT just by filling it up with gas!!!

"Measure with micrometer, mark with spray paint, cut with dynamite"

I am SO ****, I even get **** about when to get ****. I carefully differentiate between the times that something DOES make a difference, and the times that it DOESN'T. The ultimate in ****-retentivity.

OkanaganIroc

Well I'm certainly not going to worry about that small of a descrepancy. I took the rear wheel off this morning and measured the new link and it is 2 5/8" long. I then took the front wheel off and checked the link there and it was 2 1/4" long.. I figure since the links that I put on are 1/4" longer than both of the sets that they were designed to replace I won't bother with altering then and just leave as is.

jeffgordon241st

I have this same problem and sound. I have a 1987 Iroc Z28 Camaro. The problem I have is that I changed the Brakes, Rotors, and Calipers. I also changed the Sway Bar Bushings and the End Links in the rear. Still have the sounds! Anyone have an idea what it could be?

antares57

iTrader: (8)

Check your shock upper connection behind the rear seat. Mine somehow came loose and would make that kind of sound.

jeffgordon241st

And if it is not that, any other idea?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

There's not a whole lot left other than rust damage kind of stuff, not out of the question given your locale.

What did the upper shock mount look like, from INSIDE the car?

jeffgordon241st

The Irocis in Excellent Condition, Always been garage kept since it was new. It has seen rain twice in 26 years and never a winter. Only has 70,000 original miles on it. Upper shock mount looked great. Maybe shocks are bad? Also, does anyone know of the 87 Iroc came with factory locking lugs for the wheels? one per wheel. Can't figure the noise out!

Stewie

If it has original rear shocks, you probably need new ones anyway. A good set of replacement shocks aren't expensive (unless you want performance ones). If the noise stops, you've solved the problem and did some quick maintenance that needed to be done anyway. In short, I agree with you and think a broken shock is the likely source.

Hope that gets rid of the irritating noise.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

And this was from INSIDE the car, right? (back seat out, carpet peeled back, foam stuffer blocks removed)

If not, check them from INSIDE the car.