Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

I am restoring my vert and was wondering what is available for new control (trailing) arms. Are they worthwhile? Costly?

Thanks much!

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

if you are "restoring" the car, then you would want original ones. I believe you can still get them from classic industries, but you can always clean and repaint the original ones if they are not too bad.

Aftermarket has many options, some better than others. Depends on what you are doing with the car.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

I just ordered a set from UMI Performance. I'll have them on the 18th. Hopefully i'll like them. Anything should be better that what's on there right now.

Dennis-Z28

iTrader: (1)

aftermarket is cheap. I pressed new bushings into the stock ones and regret it. got bent up a bit.

itsMikey

UMI and J&M seem to be the popular ones...or just box the stock ones?

Dante93GTZ

iTrader: (5)

Mine are boxed and I can't tell any difference between them and my other car's with stock ones.

Z28cross-fire

If you boxed the stock ones with the rubber bushing you are probably not going to notice a difference. You also notice a bigger difference when you start making more power. Put in spherical ends and you'll feel it.

DRock89RS

for the price of aftermarket pieces youd be better off IMO

DRock89RS

for the price of aftermarket pieces youd be better off IMO

ray jr

iTrader: (2)

for a nice daily driver would you put tubular control arms on like umi or would you just box the stock ones and replace the factory bushings with new rubber ones ?? heard the aftermarket might make noises ..

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

for a DD on the cheap, use the stock arms, dont box them, replace the bushings with the 1le solid rubber ones.

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

Dang thier was this new company. I wanna say founders who make control arms cheap. Thier is a thread about them up in aftermarket vendor review part of the forum. Look into them.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

yep its founders

itsMikey

what would be good ones for auto x and road racing? anyones with spherical ends?

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

I have UMI Tubular LCAs with spherical rod ends & offset bushings, on my DD GTA. I don't regret them for a second.

You can really feel the lack of a rubber or Poly bushing, when you give it gas. There is zero hesitation. The car moves NOW, not after the rubber or poly compresses.

The Project

iTrader: (6)

Founders Performance lca's are a bit smaller than UMI or Spohn but the price is right and the reviews are all positive so far.

http://www.foundersperformance.com/

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

I agree. Don't bother with poly for a cruiser. Its more trouble than its worth.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Spherical ends are great for a race car. The delrin lined rod ends from Spohn and UMI would work very well to.

itsMikey

yeah..its my daily for now but it gets time on the track a lot.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

I would recommend the delrin lined ends over the all metal spherical for a car that gets real miles put on it.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

You can spend a lot, or a little on a decent set. I got the Lakewood control arms over 5 years ago. They come with greasable poly bushings already pressed in. All depends on what you're looking for.

Tubular would give you more tire/rim clearance...I've also heard they sell "offset" adjustable ones for even more clearance.

Not sure why someone would say poly bushings are more of a hassle than what they're worth...unless they're talkng about having to press them in themselves. Poly doesn't compress nearly as much as rubber, so they're stiffer. Of course, the bushed-end ones don't compress at all.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-20140/

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

Yeah for a stock replacement not really wanting to do a lot of racing they are fine IMO

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

I have "offset arms" from UMI Performance, but the offset isn't in the arms themselves. The offset is gained by having one mounting spacer wider than the other. By putting in thicker ones on the outside of the LCA, it moves the LCA inwards, for more wheel & tire room.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...fqh30jc7gebf51

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Right....yeah, I knew the bushings made them offset, not the arms...

jakemussman

iTrader: (3)

If anybody needs original LCA's let me know.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

If you really want to know, do some searching. For a DD cruiser, there is no reason to give up ride quality/potential squeaks/potential suspension binding just because poly is the "in thing" and is a cheap material to use. I say stick with new rubber or go to a proper articulating joint.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Seriously?? You really think people use poly bushings because it's the "in" thing? Seems you have a bit of research to do yourself my friend...

About the only thing you got right with that post is to stick with the rubber for a smoother ride on a DD.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

I think as your name suggests you are the confuzed1.

Straight from Global West's website:

Polyurethane bushings used on both ends of the control arm. This type of a control arm is best used for drag racing. The bushings however, limit the rear end from articulating. Many drag cars can get away with this because of the way the car is set up. If this type of arm is used on the street or road race applications the rear suspension will be placed in bind when the car goes over bumps and around corners. This is because the control arm bushings will not allow the rear end to have proper movement.

Consequences: High speed oversteer, possible over stressing the suspension mount, reduces tire loading during cornering and ride change.

Important: If you use polyurethane control arms with a Traclink, the rear end will not hook up. We do not recommend using a Panhard rod with double poly rear control arms because additional bind can occur when the Panhard rod moves through its arc.

^^ Now does that sound like consequences you want on a daily driver???

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Unlike you, I reply to any post based on real world experience, and not internet searches. You see, I've actually used both the rubber bushings AND poly bushings, so I can base whatever I post on my EXPERIENCE - not an internet search. But I'm sure if I were interested in high speed road racing, what you posted just might apply.

This really isn't rocket science here...it's well known that rubber bushings deflect much more than poly bushings do. Hence they will absorb impact a bit better. But they also rot after a while and lose their deflective ability over time, and become loose. I've removed enough dry rotted, cracked (and loose) rubber bushings to know that.

According to the OP, we're talking about options and types of LCA's. Not either poly or rubber bushings anyway. But to make a blanket statement that people buy them because their "in" is just more misinformation being thrown on this board.

We're talking LCA's only...not the panhard bar, front suspension or a "Traclink" setup. The clear advantage to any poly bushing is they deflect less. They also don't dry rot and become loose over time. If installed properly they won't bind, squeak or anything else you're accusing them of doing.

They work great for everyday street use and they won't deform over time or rot out. As said, rubber will work, and in general the ride will be slightly smoother over bumps etc - because they deflect more. They won't send your car sailing out of control and cause a crash....lol

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

I provided a source because I knew you would discount my personal experience. Personally I run on Delrin bushings only. You will notice that I don't doubt the poly deforms less than rubber. That is actually my whole point. As you go around a corner the suspension on the outside compresses and the body rolls slightly, however the rear of the car of course still has both tires on the road. This means the you have now essentially twisted the axle with respect to the car. The bushings in the LCAs take up this twist. Poly and rubber bushings do this by deforming. Of course by deforming, they act as a spring, trying to return the car back to the same angle as the rear. Since poly is much stiffer than rubber, it act as a stronger spring. When the poly unloads it will do so more abruptly than rubber. This can be dangerous on a car pushed near the limit or when the suspension is goes through large articulation, like hitting a pot hole around a corner. An articulating end like spherical rod ends allow basically a frictionless articulation to occur. There is no spring back or possible bind with this setup.

On a drag car, like most people here like, the poly is fine since the car will never go around a corner as fast as they were built to.

For a daily driver, the poly doesn't make sense because you are typically more concerned with ride comfort and painlessness. Like it or not, poly is more prone to squeaking than any other common bushing material. If lubricated properly, noise shouldn't be a problem, but there is plenty of evidence of squeaky poly on this forum.

Happy motoring.

ray jr

iTrader: (2)

where can i buy the bushings your talking about for my stock control arms ?

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

If your going to keep your stock rear control arms go with OEM rubber. If you go with anything else your going to bind and you'll start twisting the stamped steel arms do to the inflexibility of the harder bushings or solid bushings. Do not use delrin bushings on the rear of your LCA's.

ray jr

iTrader: (2)

what if i box them ?? also what do you think about the ile solid rubber ones somebody recommended ?

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

There was a reason why they had rubber bushings and were made from stamp steel. Not only were they cheap to produce but it served its purpose. The rear end is solid and doesn't move independently from the carrier section of the rear end housing. In layman's terms If one side of the axle compress the other side depresses nearly the same amount since its one solid peace. Running harder bushing types and or boxing the arms will really limit the free movement the rear end should have which will cause binding, limited movement, lack of handling, bent brackets, sheared bolts etc. On a drag car or similar situation its really not going to make much of a difference unless you lunch and have more weight transfer going to one particular corner of the vehicle, then its possible. Just remember somethings going to give if its not the LCA's then its going to bend the mounting locations or whatever is the weakest part in the chain.

J91

http://www.hotpart.com/shop/index.ph...t_detail&p=133 Here's what you want, poly spherical ends, tubular LCA's they work great......

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

i have tubular lca's and poly bushings in my rearend and i really didnt feel any less handling compared to teh stock stuff. also installed an edelbrock adjustable panhard bar with poly bushings too

J91

When you upgrade to a 500HP engine the stock stuff doesn't work, too much flex etc. The spherical poly bushings are the way to go, they do not bind in hard acceleration and or cornering, much better than the stock arms....

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

You can't, they are for aftermarket arms.

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

You can make your own delrin bushings or you can buy delrin bushings for stock arms but only for the fronts a-arms, again delrin is way to hard to use for the bushing on the rear control arms. The bushings need to be able to flex.
Your better of going with OEM rubber on the stock arms or getting after market rod-end/rod-end, poly/rod-end or other types of ends that allow free movement at least on one end.

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

I know I said I have aftermarket stuff. Performance wise. Traction etc. wheel hop they are a ton better. But as far as handling saying poly isnt good for handling and rear end movement I have felt zero difference. handles just the same. Someone said they are more for drag racing. I disagree.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

There are multiple options for delrin bushings that allow full range of movement. Granted they are for aftermarket arms only. Both Spohn and UMI sell them. They are great.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Then you just don't drive you car hard enough. For those of us road racing, going to track days, auto-x, the difference is there. If you don't do any of these things, I'm not surprised you don't see a difference. In which case why bother with poly?

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

Just drag racing. Poly lasts longer than rubber too.

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

were do you see delrin bushings?

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

OH, "Delrin race" Not "bushing" I see now this makes sense. You said Delrin bushings they do make solid Delrin bushings...

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

Delsphere bushings in the rear articulate ... Very nice difference over poly tubular LCA and PHB.. I replaced those with Spohn's poly/delsphere combo LCA and PHB. No bind and more predictable now!