Solid Engine Mounts
#1
Solid Engine Mounts
I don't know where this fits, I'm putting it here because they're holding the engine to the chassis, and this doesn't have anything to do with any particular engine, racing... besides that I'm doing a K-Member swap at the same time.
Anyone running, or know someone who is, solid engine mounts in a streetcar? How obnoxious are they in this chassis? Does it mess with knock sensors or anything else?
I've done them a few times in fox bodies and similar ford chassis and you couldn't tell the difference driving the car around, but I've also made custom ones for a friend's Toyota which made the car undrivable at higher speeds.
Anyone running, or know someone who is, solid engine mounts in a streetcar? How obnoxious are they in this chassis? Does it mess with knock sensors or anything else?
I've done them a few times in fox bodies and similar ford chassis and you couldn't tell the difference driving the car around, but I've also made custom ones for a friend's Toyota which made the car undrivable at higher speeds.
#2
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Car: '89 Firebird
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: T56
Re: Solid Engine Mounts
I switched from GM rubber to solid with my LS engine and couldn't tell any difference. My car is rowdy though so don't notice a lot of things other people might complain about.
I've heard tranny mount is where you really get a lot of vibrations and negative feedback.
I've heard tranny mount is where you really get a lot of vibrations and negative feedback.
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Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Re: Solid Engine Mounts
As qwk mentioned you'll likely not feel them in a rowdy setup. I did however put them in an old z24 cavalier decades ago that knocked the fillings out of my teeth. Those mounts were completely different and direclty translated vibration into the unibody.
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T.L. (11-09-2020)
#5
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Re: Solid Engine Mounts
There's not a significant advantage over poly. The poly mounts don't move enough to notice.
Solid trans mounts are known to break the tail shaft off the trans. Seems reason enough to avoid both IMO. I have poly all the way around and there's zero perceptible drivetrain movement.
GD
Solid trans mounts are known to break the tail shaft off the trans. Seems reason enough to avoid both IMO. I have poly all the way around and there's zero perceptible drivetrain movement.
GD
#6
Re: Solid Engine Mounts
Wow, OK...
1- there is a significant advantage over poly- poly cold flows and distorts, when it's heated it can drip right out. I've also noticed that a lot of the poly I've used in the last 10 or so years eventually disintegrates into a powder, like I just took my endlinks off and the bushings just crumbled, as did my poly jack pad
2- Solid TRANSMISSION mounts will break a transmission when used with flexible engine mounts. Solid engine mounts WILL NOT break a transmission housing no matter what trans mount you use.
3- I have no intention of using a solid trans mount- that is something that only gets used in a race car and would be more obnoxious on an f-body chassis than most others.
The reason that I'm trying solid mounts on this car (and have used them in the past on other cars) is usually some combination of heat resistance and further stiffening the chassis. If they prove obnoxious I'll probably put stock style rubber mounts back in. They're more heat tolerant than poly.
1- there is a significant advantage over poly- poly cold flows and distorts, when it's heated it can drip right out. I've also noticed that a lot of the poly I've used in the last 10 or so years eventually disintegrates into a powder, like I just took my endlinks off and the bushings just crumbled, as did my poly jack pad
2- Solid TRANSMISSION mounts will break a transmission when used with flexible engine mounts. Solid engine mounts WILL NOT break a transmission housing no matter what trans mount you use.
3- I have no intention of using a solid trans mount- that is something that only gets used in a race car and would be more obnoxious on an f-body chassis than most others.
The reason that I'm trying solid mounts on this car (and have used them in the past on other cars) is usually some combination of heat resistance and further stiffening the chassis. If they prove obnoxious I'll probably put stock style rubber mounts back in. They're more heat tolerant than poly.
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#8
Re: Solid Engine Mounts
Has anyone had problems with the Moroso mounts not lining up? The bodyside pads are labeled driver's and passenger side and I can see the difference, I have them on the correct sides. The engine side mounts appear to be the same and they do not have labels. with everything loose (mounts/pads on both sides, the k-member bolts just snugged, trans mount lose...) and all the prying, coxing, pulling, and pushing with a jack I could come up with this is the closest I've gotten it, the driver's side is too far forward by about 1/4" or so, and the passenger side is too far up by about the same. If I try to coax it halfway in between or to get the weight off the pads to try to get the bolts in the holes they move farther off.
driver's side, about 1/4" too far forward
Passenger side, about 1/4" too high
driver's side, about 1/4" too far forward
Passenger side, about 1/4" too high
#9
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Re: Solid Engine Mounts
I have used plenty of poly mounts and bushings and have never had one melt. Sure eventually the stuff will disintegrate but frankly on a hot rod who cares? Engine will likely be in and out a couple times before that happens.
Moroso in general seems to not give any ***** about fitment. I generally avoid their products if something else is available. Have had many problems with Moroso fitment on oil pans and other products. Also quality control seems to be lacking.
GD
Moroso in general seems to not give any ***** about fitment. I generally avoid their products if something else is available. Have had many problems with Moroso fitment on oil pans and other products. Also quality control seems to be lacking.
GD
#10
Supreme Member
Re: Solid Engine Mounts
Has anyone had problems with the Moroso mounts not lining up? The bodyside pads are labeled driver's and passenger side and I can see the difference, I have them on the correct sides. The engine side mounts appear to be the same and they do not have labels. with everything loose (mounts/pads on both sides, the k-member bolts just snugged, trans mount lose...) and all the prying, coxing, pulling, and pushing with a jack I could come up with this is the closest I've gotten it, the driver's side is too far forward by about 1/4" or so, and the passenger side is too far up by about the same. If I try to coax it halfway in between or to get the weight off the pads to try to get the bolts in the holes they move farther off.
driver's side, about 1/4" too far forward
Passenger side, about 1/4" too high
driver's side, about 1/4" too far forward
Passenger side, about 1/4" too high
Could it be your K-member?
#11
Re: Solid Engine Mounts
I have used plenty of poly mounts and bushings and have never had one melt. Sure eventually the stuff will disintegrate but frankly on a hot rod who cares? Engine will likely be in and out a couple times before that happens.
Moroso in general seems to not give any ***** about fitment. I generally avoid their products if something else is available. Have had many problems with Moroso fitment on oil pans and other products. Also quality control seems to be lacking.
GD
Moroso in general seems to not give any ***** about fitment. I generally avoid their products if something else is available. Have had many problems with Moroso fitment on oil pans and other products. Also quality control seems to be lacking.
GD
As far as Moroso stuff not fitting, some does quite well, this is about the worst that I've seen with their stuff. Might as well get it out there for the next guy to know.
Sure it could be, but after contacting Ramey at UMI and he pointed out that there's been another person on here that had all sorts of problems with Moroso solid mounts and a UMI K, and after searching it appears that people in general have problems with the Moroso mounts. I believe it's the mounts.
In the end bruit force and ignorance won- I loosened everything, wiggled/shook it as much as I could to get it to move to the right place, marked what direction they are off and then slotted the mounting holes for both sides, cut them and bolted it together so both sides dropped in easily. Done. I shot some video and a few still pics that I'll post in a few days.
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