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I have the eibach pro kit been on my car for 8 yrs no complaints.i will be switching over to weight jack system tho for the heavier spring rate an adjustability.
think they will help a lil more when auto crossing an doing track days.
Other than a little added cost, I can't see a drawback to using weight jacks over regular springs. You can adjust the weight jack obviously and with a regular spring you cannot. Whether it be for appearance or to fine tune the suspension for performance,
I recommend not lowering it at all. These cars are long, and scrape enough at factory height going into driveways and parking lots. Just my and I'm admittedly uncool fwiw.
I don't know what it is about conventional springs but I can't keep my car on the road with them. It'll fishtail all over the place under power. It's crazy. Suspension Techniques, Hotchkis, Hypercoil. All out of control.
Set of constant rate weight jacks and the car goes straight as an arrow. Doesn't drag race worth a crap with those springs but it isn't trying to kill me either.
Weight jacks have ease of ride height adjustability and also the potential to change spring rates outside even the manufacturers offerings. Most manufacturers tend to use industry standard spring sizes which means the common oval track warehouses have lots of options.
Standard lowering springs (like from UMI) have improved rates as compared to stock and usually lower a moderate, tasteful amount.
Weight jacks have ease of ride height adjustability and also the potential to change spring rates outside even the manufacturers offerings. Most manufacturers tend to use industry standard spring sizes which means the common oval track warehouses have lots of options.
Standard lowering springs (like from UMI) have improved rates as compared to stock and usually lower a moderate, tasteful amount.
We sell around an equal amount of both.
ill be ordering the umi weight jacks somtime this spring
To add to the Weight Jack option, you can assemble/fabricate weight jacks yourself to keep your costs lower and buy springs from a dirt track racing supply house where coil springs are more affordable than some of the usual suspect aftermarket parts suppiers, IE UMI, Ground Control,ect,ect….
To add to the Weight Jack option, you can assemble/fabricate weight jacks yourself to keep your costs lower and buy springs from a dirt track racing supply house where coil springs are more affordable than some of the usual suspect aftermarket parts suppiers, IE UMI, Ground Control,ect,ect….
If I want weight jacks this is what I'll be doing... Some fabrication is required though.
Being in Canada, we get hosed on exchange rate, shipping and duties... I saved about $100 just by piecing together my own bump steer kit in comparison to buying the cheapest spohn kit... I'll probably save $400 building my own weight jack set up. Plus, I can borrow springs from my circle track friends to figure out a decent set up.
If I want weight jacks this is what I'll be doing... Some fabrication is required though.
Being in Canada, we get hosed on exchange rate, shipping and duties... I saved about $100 just by piecing together my own bump steer kit in comparison to buying the cheapest spohn kit... I'll probably save $400 building my own weight jack set up. Plus, I can borrow springs from my circle track friends to figure out a decent set up.
came here for this.
i was thinking about doing this exact thing. I'll be pulling the engine in a few months and it would be a perfect time to do it. i know its been done before but i never paid attention.
I can fabricate plenty, but some clarifications:
did you mount the threaded plate in the spring upper location at the k-member?
Is there room for the jack bolt extending into the engine bay?
what part did you use for the spring bucket? Or, is there one that seems like it would be the best choice?
Global West sells a weight jack kit but it seems to mount at the bottom of the spring at the control arm.
came here for this.
i was thinking about doing this exact thing. I'll be pulling the engine in a few months and it would be a perfect time to do it. i know its been done before but i never paid attention.
I can fabricate plenty, but some clarifications:
did you mount the threaded plate in the spring upper location at the k-member?
Is there room for the jack bolt extending into the engine bay?
what part did you use for the spring bucket? Or, is there one that seems like it would be the best choice?
Global West sells a weight jack kit but it seems to mount at the bottom of the spring at the control arm.
i didn’t think GW made weight jacks, didn’t see them on their website. I’m not aware of a style of weight jack that mounts on control arms.
I made the style like the UMI’s and the Ground Control’s where the weight jack sits in the K member spring pocket. The top larger cup rests in the Factory spring pocket and the lower smaller cup is where the shorter spring seats.
Search for member TEDSgrad he did a really good write on how to install weld in weight jacks
Last edited by 91banditt2; 04-01-2021 at 11:12 AM.
Did the same a while ago. Initially installed while everything was in place, then took the k member out for more work
I'm about to pull the wheezy engine in about a month, so may just as well drop it out the bottom to get the k-member free and do this mod at the same time.
Anyone have weld-in weight jackers for the rear? Looking from below you can obviously see the spring location/pocket. but what is the composition of the structure above the pocket? Is it just a few layers of sheet metal? Easy enough to cut out and weld in like the front?
Rears are easy. The hump in the spring pocket has a center hole. Pilot up through into the hatch area then open the holes with a hole saw. (Run it in reverse to cut a clean hole in the carpet). You can then just use a weight jack plate and nut with a couple heavy self tapping screws to hold it in place, dont need to weld it really. I ran that setup on my 92. Simple and cheap
I don't know what it is about conventional springs but I can't keep my car on the road with them. It'll fishtail all over the place under power. It's crazy. Suspension Techniques, Hotchkis, Hypercoil. All out of control.
Set of constant rate weight jacks and the car goes straight as an arrow. Doesn't drag race worth a crap with those springs but it isn't trying to kill me either.
I'm confused, I see conventional and constant rate springs as being the same things. Just the addition of the weight jacks and their adjustment is what corrected your issue?
One of my least favorite answers. The way that most air suspensions are setup you have to soften (remove air) to lower the car, so as the car gets lower the spring rate goes down. The opposite of what you need/want in EVERY case except if you're doing it strictly for looks.
Originally Posted by 91banditt2
i didn’t think GW made weight jacks, didn’t see them on their website. I’m not aware of a style of weight jack that mounts on control arms.
I made the style like the UMI’s and the Ground Control’s where the weight jack sits in the K member spring pocket. The top larger cup rests in the Factory spring pocket and the lower smaller cup is where the shorter spring seats.
Search for member TEDSgrad he did a really good write on how to install weld in weight jacks
Are these mounted screw down so you adjust them from under the car through the control arms?
How did you get such clean cuts, was the tubing and flat pieces turned in a lathe?
One of my least favorite answers. The way that most air suspensions are setup you have to soften (remove air) to lower the car, so as the car gets lower the spring rate goes down. The opposite of what you need/want in EVERY case except if you're doing it strictly for looks.
Are these mounted screw down so you adjust them from under the car through the control arms?
How did you get such clean cuts, was the tubing and flat pieces turned in a lathe?
These were designed base off of the Ground Control WJ's that are adjusted through the bottom of the control arm. Here at work we have a machine shop in house so the parts that we fabricated were cut using a water jet, with the correct travel speed it can produce pretty smooth surfaces. The top portion that mates up with the K-member was cut from a 1 1/2" steel bar that took 2 hours to cut
Last edited by 91banditt2; 05-24-2021 at 07:21 AM.
01-29-2021, 07:09 AM
and I'm admittedly uncool fwiw.
