80schild

iTrader: (5)

I had my steering box replaced with an AC Delco unit from Rock Auto awhile back, and after that I started having issues with the belt slipping on the power steering pump when I turned at slower speeds. I stopped messing with the car for awhile until a couple of weeks ago. I swapped the PS pump out with one from O'Reillys and belt isn't slipping with the new pump, but I can tell after it warms up it's having to work really hard and it's whining.

Also, I remember the same shop that replaced the steering box also did an alignment. It pulls slightly to the right, even though they claim it's aligned properly. Don't know if this is related.

The steering just feels very heavy like something is binding and making the pump work too hard. I've owned other third gens in the past that steered much easier. I just don't even know what else to look for. The tie rod ends were replaced as well around the same time as the steering box.

Im thinking I may try to back off that set screw on the steering box 1/4 turn and see if it helps. No idea if the shop that installed it messed with it.

80schild

iTrader: (5)

Well I backed off that set screw a bit and I can't tell much difference. It does return to center after a turn so maybe that's not it.

exiled350

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like it wasn't bleed correctly. Lift the front tires off the ground, take the cap off the reservoir, and rotate the steering wheel lock to lock with the engine off. Have someone watch as you're doing it, they should see the fluid moving around and probably some bubbles. I had a similar situation where I thought the pump was bad because it kept stalling when any load was placed on it, turned out there was a ton of air in the system. Through a combination of spinning the wheel and finally getting frustrated and hooking up a hand vacuum to the res I ended up having to add about half a quart of fluid back in. Now its smooth as silk with no growling or anything.

80schild

iTrader: (5)

yeah I didn't lift it. I'm going to try that today.

80schild

iTrader: (5)

I'm going to have to buy a lower profile floor jack. Mine won't even go under the air dam. I guess I'll get the Daytona one from HF, it seems to get good reviews.

WildCard600

I have the daytona low pro long reach. It's too tall for the air dam still. I have to jack up one side put a few boards under it and then I can reach the k-member.

codyman125

I just come in at an angle just in front of the front tires to get under the middle of the K-Member. I have an Amazon Special floor jack that looks like a cheaper version on the standard length Daytona, and it seems to work alright from there.

exiled350

iTrader: (1)

I've got the same one but in orange. It hangs up, but I just give it a good shove to get past. Biggest issue I have is they're super sketchy on the tubular k-frame.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Drive the car up onto acoupla 2x8s or the like before attacking it with the jack, to get a bit of extra ground clearance.

80schild

iTrader: (5)

I have some 2x10s laying around, but my floor jack is a smaller one, I think it's AC Delco branded or something. It has the short handle so that's quite a reach to get to the k member. By the time I push it under there far enough there's not much handle to work with. A bigger jack would certainly make it easier.

80schild

iTrader: (5)

Got it jacked up and did the left-right thing 30 times. Seems to be better.