xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

Hi, I narrowed my TBI hissing problem down to TPS. When i disconect it there is absolutely no hissing and car runs better, althought the idle is crappy and the TPS is not hooked. So ECM is compensating.

I went bought a new TPS and I thought this would be an easy install.
Little did I know that I will brake the right torx screw that holds the TPS and strip the left one!

FOr some reason they started coming out right, and than they just got really hard and I barely pulled the TPS out a bit, and snap. I snaped my right torx screw. Now I cant get either of them out.

I thought this would be an easy swap.

Is there anything I need to know about this.

How can I drill them out???

Damn, can you say bad luck.!

justlearning

if they are broke loose u could probably just grap em w/ some needle nose pliers couldnt u?? or needle vise grips better yet. i changed mine today as a matter of fact due to a code 22 and it was simple!! good luck

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

They were stuck in there like no other. I ended up braking both of them, after stripping the other one. I was using liquid wrench and wd40, but no avail. Than i just got the drill and dirlled through the broken bolt. Than I just used a smaller self tapping screw and right now only one of those is holding the sensor a lot better than before. So, I overcame it and I checked my TBI on the other side, and its just solid there, and no shavings inside.

Still my problem remains.

Is there some vacum crap that goes inside the dash???

Could they ever come loose.

I cleande my IAC, and it behaves the same.

The only thing thats not new on that motor, are the heads cam and IAC sensor.
WTF, I am lost, and the car is set properly with timing.

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

Nevermind, the heads only have 15k on them. So, cam pistons and IAC.


I just might need new IAC.

I am really stumped.

Troubleshoot everything and to no avail.

The intake is not leaking, no visible vacume ruptures or cracks in the engine bay.

EGR seems to be working properly...


It sometimes idles bad, sometimes good.

When it idles bad my driveability is down the drain. No throttle response up till almost half way down. Than it picks up like crazy.
When its idling good the throttle response is magnificent.


HELP

flaming-ford

iTrader: (7)

well just for the heck of it check your base timing, if it's way off change it a lil closer to factory specs.

I checked mine a week ago and set it back to factory 0* and i swear a geo could have beat me in a race (it was at 12* advance with good throttle response before) afterwards i'd be lucky to have squeeled the tires in gravelly tarmac lol (over exxagerating but, it definetly wasn't good).

Then again mine seems to like about 10-12*s of timing which sounds kinda abnormal to me but, someone has had my intake manifold off at one point in time, and knows maybe they put a "ghost" cam is in it too.

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

well, I checked the timing, and my base timing ran at 8 advanced. It idled to high. I put it back on 0 and at some things its better, at others carppy..
I changed everything on this dang car and the cam is stock. I know. No one has been in my engine before. It still had those stock brackets on the bolts and stuff.

The intake i sprayed and no vacum leak.

I dissconected the TPS and there was no hiss, but the hesitation was still there.

I have good fuel pressure when I go 1/3 in on the pedal. It has no low end, and whenever I go on it in the low end, 7 out of 10 times it will bog. When it bogs I am running way lean.

The only three sensors I haven't replaced yet are MAF, IAC, and o2, (o2 was replaced 5000miles ago, its bosch) None heated, and I have headers, so I am not sure if I need heated one, although my car has ran perfectly before this happened.

Is there a vacum going into the dash???

???

Help, and thanks for Help.

88TATBI5.7

there is one line that i know of that goes to our heater controls.

have you checked fuel pressure?
it kind of sounds like my car. it wont idle but if i get it over 2000 it runs. before it went this bad it would search at idle and it would have no power until higher rpms like 2k-2.5K. so i didnt think fuel pressure. but im running 3 psi. so it could be.

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

It was on my list to replace the fuel pump to TPI one and I was gonna do the access door instead of dropping the tank. Next paycheck.


I remember, 88tatbi that you had some problems too. I guess, when the pumps crap, they do it sneakingly.

I was told that when they go they go, but from reading here it seems like the pump is a little rascal (to say the least)>

We'll see, and if you want I'll pm you when I find my problem, and you do the same, so we can help eachother.

peace, and thanks for the help.

88TATBI5.7

sounds good let me know what you find out. ill do the same.

im going to check my pressure with another guage. just to make sure. i really dont want to change the pump if i dont have to.

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

It might be the pump, but I am thinking TPS too.

Maybe its out of adjustment.

No one seems to reply to my adjustment thread, so we'll see.

88TATBI5.7

our tps doesnt need adjusting. our car on start up takes a base and works from there (atleast thats what iv been told). should sit at .64volts. iv tried 3 tps. advanced doesnt carry a adjustible one (not at store maybe ordered). test it to see if it has a constant voltage at idle and see if its over 4v at wot. see if the voltage rises smoothly while opening the throttle. hope this helps